Hey Guys,

In case you didn't know, the bottom of the Angel with the yellow color scheme is white, red, black, and turquoise, no yellow at all. This plane has 6 colors on it. Again, the bottom is totally different than the top. I have not flown it yet, still assembling it so I don't know what it will look like in the air. But having owned the green and red color scheme prior to this one, I don't anticipate any difference in the air. I will post some pics of the bottom as soon as I finish and get a chance.

Larry....

Larry

That's interesting as yellow is the easiest to see when upside down with no yellow showing should make it even easier to orientate, sounds good to me.

Mike

Mike ... maybe its the bipe ... not the colour.

Larry ... take your Angel out, ask a pal to hold it at 150 meters and wiggle her a bit, see how she looks like. Hahahahahaaa ...

One other thing to keep in mind, this is not a 2M airplane, it is a 50 size. So by default it is going to be harder to see orientation, especially if you have old tired eyes like I do. Mike, you bring up a good point about having two different schemes. I am hoping that I can see orientation better with this one than I could with the red/green scheme. But I don't really remember having that much problems with it, but I only had about 15 or so flights on it when I sold it. Anyway, will post pics next time I have it assembled.

Larry..

Its a strange thing, when I first got into large span airframes I found I was flying them at a distance that made them look the same size as my normal airframes i.e. further away, until I got used to it and started to fly them closer in, then its much easier to orientate them the bigger they are.

Mike

Hey Everyone,

As promised, I am attaching some pics of the bottom of my Angel with the yellow and black color scheme. As you can see the bottom is quite different than the top. But I am not sure that at a distance it will contrast all that much. I have found that just about any color scheme will sillioutte on certain days anyway. I believe that Mike has the right idea, don't fly the darn thing so far out as to where you cannot see it....lol..

All I lack with mine is setting the throws on the control surfaces. I did a final weight check as listed below along with the equipment that I have. Will be ready to fly it when the weather cooperates, which looks like it will be a week away as of now. The only mods I made, I removed the magnets and installed a hatch latch in the canopy. My magnets were so strong that I actually had to use a rod from the bottom to help push it off the first time I removed it. My first Angel had cracks along the bottom edges from where the previous owner used his fingernails to help remove it. On that one, I simply sook a piece of white electrical tape and doubled it over and attached it to the inside on the top rear of the canopy to where it stuck out about 3/4" when the canopy was closed. That way when you wanted to remove the canopy you just lifted the piece of tape, and it pulled it right off. I never had any issues with the canopy coming off in flight even with positive and negative snaps, but then again, it had really strong magnets on it.


Hacker A50-16S
APC 17x8e prop
CC ICE75 ESC
CC 10amp BEC
Futaba R608FS 2.4 mhz receiver
JR DS821 Digital servos all around
Turnigy 6S 25C 5000mah battery
Anderson Power Pole fuselage mounted arming switch

RTF weight 3.175kg (7.0#)


I will most likely wind up with a APC 17x10e prop but all I had at the moment is a 17x8e. I will post the static results when I get a chance to check it and fly it. Ground clearence is okay with the 17" prop, but it will most likely pick up some grass stains from the weeds, etc. just like my Wind does at our field. We will see....

Note - I also checked incidences and the wings are zero zero with respect to the stab.....

Larry....

She looks purtee!

We have a new distributor in the UK and the yellow scheme is due for delivery in mid Feb, I have one on order, supprisingly I live in a very rural area and the new distributor is only about 1.5miles away from me as the crow flies on a farm.

Mike

Mike,

That is great. You should have yours pretty soon. I was wrong in my prior post. There is a little yellow on the bottom as you can see on the fuse. I was going on memory from looking at the wing and stab panels. I have built and assembled a lot of planes over the years, and I have to say that this plane is the truest plane I have ever assembled. Everything went together flawlessly. I also have a Wind 110 and had the Miss Wind and they were fantastic also. But this one beats them all, hands down. Also, I didn't mention it in my previous post, but I had to install my receiver and arming switch behind CG to allow a little room to adjust the CG. I guess using the heavier 6S 5000 battery pack is the main reason. Right now, I have the receiver mounted on a little platform I installed in the turtle deck area behind the rudder servo. At 145mm CG, my rear of my battery pack is about 1/2" in front of the wing tube. Plenty of room to go forward, but not backwards. I have my ESC mounted under the battery tray just in front of the landing gear plate. I preferred this location versus on the side of the fuse where the instructions call for. This way it is out of the way when installing and removing battery packs, and it is a straight shot to the motor with the wires. Just a heads up if anyone is thinking about installing a light servo in the rear for elevator to save weight. You are gonna love this plane......

Larry...

Hello guys,

Just a quick couple of questions. I started assembling mine and I noticed that the hinges are a little stiff, even before you add the CA. I was wondering if anyone has used different hinges due to this. Also, I was thinking about sealing the control surfaces and was also wondering if it is recommended or necessary. I am just worried about the hinge lines being overly stiff.

Other than that, this ARF is going to be the easiest airplane I have put together. This is the first time I have assembled an electric ARF in this size. Most of my airplanes have been conversions of regular glow kits.

Thanks,

Teo

Teo,

My hinges were stiff, but no more than most other CA hinges that I have used so I am not sure how to answer your question. I have had no issues with mine and they definitely will loosen up with use. But I would suggest that if you feel they are too stiff vs what you have used before, I would pick up some new CA hinges. I have always been told that sealing the hinge line always helps, but the few times that I have done so I really could not tell the difference. I do, however, make a tight joint when I glue the hinges. I do not leave any type of gap if at all possible, so that may be why I have never really been able to tell the difference. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum about electric setups. I am somewhat new to electric power myself, so I have asked a lot of questions to help get the hang of it, so don't be shy, ask away. These guys will help out in any way they can. You won't find any difference assembling this model vs a gas setup. This one is designed for electric and just follow the instructions, it's all pretty straight forward. Although the instructions leave a lot to be desired, but the pictures are pretty good....lol.. I would suggest that if you plan on using different equipment other than what's recommended, ask the folks on here if they have used it and if it will fit first as changing things can affect a lot of stuff such as CG, etc. Have fun with the build, just finished mine yesterday...

Larry

Teo

My first Angel is over two years old now and has hundreds of flights to its credit, I found the CA hinges to be fine, but they could have changed in the interim period, the only thing to watch is the canopy attachement, it seems to vary from too strong too will fall off in flight, either way if you use your finger nails to lift the edges of the canopy you will break off the edge, best to fit a canopy catch and use that as a handle to lift the canopy with.

Mike

Larry and Mike,

Thanks for the tips. I will keep the hinges that came with the kit. I do pull the surfaces being hinged as closely as possible to reduce the gap, but in the last two planes I have put together I started sealing the surfaces. I never flew the planes before sealing the hinge lines, so I do not know if it really made a difference, however, everything I have read said that it is "good practice".

My canopy seems to be one of the stiff ones as it is a little difficult to remove. I was thinking about adding a latch just to make sure that it stays in place. I know that some people have had issues with it.

The stiffness of the hinges worried me mostly on the elevator where we rely on the center piece to move the half not connected to the servo. I was just thinking that with the stiff hinges it could give you a little more elevator "differential" as it twists under load.

Thanks,

Teo

One of the easiest ways to seal the hinge line is with a small bead of silicon mastic on the underside of the surface, I only seal the elevator and the ailerons as the rudder always seems to be effective wheather sealed or not.

I put the latch on the canopy with the handle sticking up through the perspex and bent over at right angles, this allows it to be used as a means of getting the canopy off, I also took out one of the magnets at the back as with the latch it is superfluous. Post 149 on page 6 shows the catch.

Mike

Hey Teo....

I finished my Angel 3 weeks ago and the hinges felt "stiff" to me also. I elected to go ahead and install the ones that came in my kit. I'm using Futaba 3152 servos and they have "No" trouble moving any of the surfaces.

My kit was pre paid for so it didn't sit around long after it arrived in the states. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the latest version of the kit being shipped from SebArt should contain the same hinges. I think you'll be fine using them....

I bought the glow conversion kit to install OS 55 AX.
I can not identify where to place 2 wood parts. I think that they are the gasservo tray, but I do not know how to install it.
Any of you have pictures or description about that?

There is a step by step guide on the SebArt web.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Thanks in advance,

I just found the manual for electric version, nothing about glow kit installation.
Could you send me the link?

Thanks

I found it !!!!

When I did the conversion for a pal of mine there where no instructions or materials kit available, its a very easy job, go back to page 6 and you will see what I did, the only thing not detailed on the Sebart instructions is the cut out I put into the bottom of the fus to accomadate the silencer inside the cowl, makes a much neater installation.

Mike

Hey Guys, just reading my way through all the pages in this thread as I've bought a 2nd hand Angel complete, but the motor box was knocked off. I'm going to make a new one from ply. Could someone do me a favour and measure the distance from the bulkhead to the front of standard elec motor box? Also keen to know if there is any side and down thrust built in?

I've seen a couple of these fly, and have been after 1 for ages, going to be fun! Thanks for all the tips around the canopy etc.

My Electric version is in my workshop at the moment, will measure it tomorrow for you if someone does not beat me to it.

Don't forget the reinforcing washers for the incidence pins, after prolonged use they start to develop play.

Miuke

How much control movement do you have on your surfaces....?

I'm thinking about 1/2 inch for low rates and 3/4 inch for high....

Wiltshire1

113mm and 117mm if the pics aren't clear, no down or up thrust.

Mike

Brilliant, thanks a lot, I * should * be able to make a decent job now!