Hi there,

I am about to install a digi switch on my model. Please see the configuration attached. The switch is connected to the TP 2s2p LiPo back with a normal JR Female/Male connector. However I would like to check my voltage after every flight and also to recharge my battery without disconnecting the switch from it. I plan to interfere a JR Y lead between the switch and the LiPo pack. What do you think?

What are your practices really?

Thanks,
Nikos

Have a look at the Fromeco Kodiak switch it has a digital read out built in, but does not have a regulator, it all accords what RC system and servo's you are using as to wheather you need a regulator.

Mike

Hi

The digi switch has build in led that will give you indication of low voltage. On TP 1400 mah over 14 flights (electric plane) before change to orange. I will change plugs to micro deans or similar and charge directly. Have over 200 flights on TP receiver pack with switch combo and no problem.

Burt

It should work.

The Jaccio Perfect Switch Harness (with voltage regulator) has this cable built in to allow charging and testing the battery as well as a receiver DSC input connection and a means of connecting a binding plug to a Spectrum receiver.

Jim O

Hi Nicolas,

I charge and perform voltage checks through the balancer plug - when available. I charge through a Hyperion LBA 6 balancer. As an added safety bonus this balancer will disconnect from the charger in case one of the cell voltages gets too high, so I always charge the RX packs in the model.

Hi all,

Thanks for the answers.

Mike,

I need a regulator for this plane, and as it is about a pattern plane I would like to use the lightest setup as possible. I believe that the one I chose is one of the lightest if not the lightest in terms of power supply. Just for your info the plane has 2 x JR 9411SA, 1 x JR 8411SA and 3 Futaba 9650 servos and is a glow F3A plane with a YS 170DZ.

Burt,

14 flights???[X(] That's a lot! I currently use the same pack on my ZN Synergy with a YS 160DZ and I charge every 6 flights. My consumption is 110-140mAH per 8 minute flight, P09 schedule plus some freestyle but in order to be on the safe side I charge every 6 flights. I check my LiPo pack using a Fromeco 8 Ball load tester which provides 1A and 1.5A loads. When my battery drops below 7.4 volt under 1 A load I recharge it just to be on the safe side.

OhD (Mr. Oddino),

I have been using your regulator on my current plane with great results I have more than 100 flights with it. I have the 5.2v version combined with a JR heavy duty charge jack switch. It is a great and light device but I liked the integration of Digi switch which has on board the regulator and the switch.

Issac,

I think the solution is there, thanks! Can you please explain a little bit? Have you soldered a cable in parallel to the female cable of the Digi Switch?

mola.

Thanks that's a good solution but this particular LiPo pack does not have a balancer cable. It is a 2s2p 1400mAh pack by Thunder Power with a JR lead specially to be used as an Rx battery.


Issac I look forward to your reply, other inputs are more than wellcome.


Thanks again!

Nikos

You should probably try one GRELE regulator and all your problem will be solved
(weight, measuring battery, charge)

Harris

With normal F3A flight you will use a maximum of about 100Mah per flight just flying the scedule once only, if you go beyond that then you will use more cappacity, all the suggestions so far except for the Kodiak only check voltage, the Kodiak measures Mah consumed which is what is important IMO, LiPo's will recover a certain amount of voltage after flight so may not give an accurate indication on voltage alone, but then on a 2000Mah battery you are going to get 10 flights if you are going to just do the schedule once per flight, and that is always enough for me, my concentration goes after. LOL

I use the Kodiak and A123's no regulator, weight for weight about the same if you include the regulator on any other set up, one other thing if any of the servo's you are using are digital they will consume more current than an analog servo so make sure any regulator you use is able to supply the current needed, IMO 4amps is not enough to be on the safe side. You can get A123'a in 1100Mah size which will get the weight down even more and as you can charge them at very high amps safely you could re-charge whilst re-fueling, the 2300Mah A123's can be charged at 10amps, not sure what the safe charge is on the 1100's, but will be higher than any LiPo or Nimh.

Mike

Mike

Hi there,

The question is related to how I can check and charge a LiPo pack connected to the Digi Switch and not to the technical limitations of the device. I think and that the digi switch can cope with my servo configuration in terms of current load and supply. The electronic parts of the switch can cope to up to 12A load, however for optimal operation the manufacturer suggests 3A max load. May be during a snap it will reach 3-4 A load, for the rest of the pattern manouvers I doubt it. It is not a large 3D gas plane, but a pattern plane that will fly nice and smooth (hopefully ) with no big loads.

Just for your info it is not the first time I use a regulator which means that I know some basics, I have used SmartFly (Super Regulator and Single the yellow one), Jaccio and one custom made by a professional electrical engineer incorporating the Micrel linear regulator chipset. All of them are linear have been used succesfully and tested under stress with LiPo and LiIon packs from planes from 90 size to 2m F3A and 3D 50cc gas with no issues. I sincerely doubt that the Powerbox digi switch will not cope to the current loads of an F3A plane. Thanks for the info about the Fromeco switch and the 123 cells I don't know much about 123 to be honest.

Looking forward to other experiences with the Digit regulator/switch and setups.

Nikos

Nikos

Understand, I was just giving you a heads up on what is available, incidently the Fromeco switch is not fussy about what battery is connected, it will still work exactly the same with a LiPo or Nimh and give you a read out of how much current was consumed during flight and each subcequent flight until you zero it.

Quique Simozini had his Python go in because the Powerbox was unable to supply the current load from the Digital servo's, on investigation they determined that each servo was pulling over 4amps each under load (holding power) and as he had seven in the Python its not supprising he overloaded it, mind you his flying is just a little bit different than mine I wished.

Good luck in your F3A
Mike

Hi Mike,

I have seen the QQ video, with the Python, the plane fell during a low torque roll. Well the Python had DS 8711 or DS 8911 sevos if not mistaken, and is oriented towards 3D flying with very long servo arms (thus big load on the servos), large moving surface areas, and big throws etc. An F3A plane is not directly comparable to that IMO. On this plane I use 2 midi (9411SA), 3 mini (9650) and 1 normal size servo (8411SA)...so I belive the Digi switch will cope as it has coped with similar setups of other fliers.

Thanks again,
Nikos

Issac,

I think the solution is there, thanks! Can you please explain a little bit? Have you soldered a cable in parallel to the female cable of the Digi Switch?


Issac I look forward to your reply, other inputs are more than wellcome.


Thanks again!

Nikos

Hi Nikos

Yes that is exactly what I did.

Regards

Isaac Najary

Nicolas

On the occasion of the Python going in he was using Hitec 5955's since then he has changed to the JR 8711 and reports that they have a holding current of nearer 7amps, now that is a lot of current being drawn from the batteries, he has his Powerboxes specially built for him now, but isn't RC a great hobby, its nice to know its not just us mear mortals who get it wrong occasionally.

Mike

QQ and HiTec???? No, no....I doubt it...I am nearly 100% sure he was using JR from the first place, according to JR/Horizon's web site.

Thanks,
Nikos

Checked back and you are right of course except they where 8611's as the 8711 where not out when he had that misshap.

Mike

Dear Nicolas,
I have same setup like you want to do while my plane configuration is same as yours Servos, YS170DZ and Power Box DIGI switch and TP1320 Lipo pack. YES, I did solder another cable in parallel to Lipo cable in order to attach to it an outside testing port for load testing prior each flight. Also I did it to have the option to filed charge with no need to remove the pack from the plane.

My LiPO pack is installed under the ballypan and I opened the ballypan in away that I can switch the pack at the filed without disassembly the ballypan or the wings.

In real life I never fly more the 5 to 6 flights a days and thus with this setup I never needed to recharge at the filed or to switch battery.
Although I have the option to charge the pack while it is inside, when I finish my flying, I disassemble the LiPO pack and I recharge it while it is NOT connected to the model.

I also found that the LED indication on the digiswitch is solid and reliable. Before each flight I turn on the model and move all the sticks simultaneously. If during this test the LED stays green and do not turn momentarily to Orange, it means that you can safely depart and make P09 and F09. Finally Switching to this setup I save about 60 grams from the model.

Have fun and good luck.

Amram Leshed
F3A Israel

*** In the picture you can see the two pilots which will be with you in Italy - Left: Shlomi Chester and on the Right Ohad Zarko

Hi Amram,

Thanks for the info.

I did some bench testing with the digi switch with fully charged LiPo and when I move fully all the sticks the led becomes slightly orange and then returns back to green, this slight change will not be visible I think in day light but inside a relativelly dark room it is visible. I did some load testing on my LiPo pack and seems ok.

Also after some time (about half an hour) operating the digi switch on the bench setting up throws etc. I switched it off, suddenly I remembered that I had to set up the throttle to elevator mix. I tried to switch it back on following the button sequence and the switch could not become alive. After 3-4 minutes I tried again and it switched on. This fact was very strange and made me to have some doubts about this device.

Are these common symptoms?

Looking forward to your feedback, thanks!

Nikos