the hyper st PRO thread!
#676
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From: Toronto,
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@ jblaze
What servos aew you using, im running Jr Es579's.
Im guessing it also depends on the servos a persons using more than anything.
I finally got a fail safe..!!! No more runaways xD.
Now how do you set up a fail safe
Thanks
What servos aew you using, im running Jr Es579's.
Im guessing it also depends on the servos a persons using more than anything.
I finally got a fail safe..!!! No more runaways xD.
Now how do you set up a fail safe

Thanks
#677
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From: Newbury park, CA
sorry guys im sure its been posted in here some where but ive been looking threw alot of pages and couldnt find but my servos flex the carbon fiber servo try alot anything any ones done about this or is it not something to worry about to much?
#678
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From: Clinton Township,
NJ
Look at my post on Page 25. Also, you can add some posts or delrin material on the front side of the throttle/servo to reduce the carbon fiber tray flex. You will need to drill holes on the CF tray and the chassis to mount those posts.
#679
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I was gonna get a Jammin 21 for my ST Pro, but because I think the chances are basically slim to none that any racing I do will be official or organized, as opposed to just for fun, I think I might want a 28 instead.. I want something that'll lift the front end, but scream on top too... Ideally to be honest I'd like to have an LRP Spec 3 Truggy, but I have a chance here to get a new Novarossi 528XR for €200 - normal price €370.. The LRP locally would cost €189.. Anyway, I just wanted to ask, 1.) would the Nova just be stupid and destroy the truck from the inside out, and 2.) what's the best 28 at www.amainhobbies.com for $275 or less(not including Jammin/Picco - I want a well-functioning carb...)?? Thanks..
ps Go 25??
ps Go 25??
#680
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From: Toronto,
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Patrick.
The Nova is an insane engine, if its new, just go for it. And for the price you'r getting, I have no idea how you have managed to wait so long, I would have gone and gotten it the second I found out.
With the nova, you'll probably have to get a starter box, which I think you have, a good pipe, and a good clutch.
Your' truck will rip that track into peices with the Nova.
The Nova is an insane engine, if its new, just go for it. And for the price you'r getting, I have no idea how you have managed to wait so long, I would have gone and gotten it the second I found out.
With the nova, you'll probably have to get a starter box, which I think you have, a good pipe, and a good clutch.
Your' truck will rip that track into peices with the Nova.
#682
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Can somebody look up "RMV" at www.amainhobbies.com and tell me which shock spring set you think would correct?? I want harder springs.... Thanks..
#683
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From: Toronto,
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Good Choice.
As for springs, even Ive been looking for some, if you find any, please let me know.
I think these would work, not sure tho.
[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/12694]Clicky[/link]
On Another note.
Anyone know where I could pick up an air filter for this one. I dont want the single stage one, I really like the dual stage.
As for springs, even Ive been looking for some, if you find any, please let me know.
I think these would work, not sure tho.
[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/12694]Clicky[/link]
On Another note.
Anyone know where I could pick up an air filter for this one. I dont want the single stage one, I really like the dual stage.
#684
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: kx_maduk
does any one know a set of good brakes that i can purchase in the UK?
i didnt think my st brakes were that bad , but once running around the track they really are ****
and help on were to get better disks/ pads in the UK would be greatly apprechiated .
does any one know a set of good brakes that i can purchase in the UK?
i didnt think my st brakes were that bad , but once running around the track they really are ****
and help on were to get better disks/ pads in the UK would be greatly apprechiated .
Here you go, quick fix.
ORIGINAL: sn00p
Many Thanks for all the replies. I managed to get Kyoscho plates and swapped them out, also replaced springs with tubing and then put a hitec 645MG hi torque servo (huge torque) Result brakes still naff..... Wasnt too happy as i had now spent around £50 trying to sort the braking issue. Spoke with the guy in the shop and he mentioned about setting the links up etc to my reply of being do you think im stupid (well it turns out YES i am stupid). I noticed no matter what servo your using it only moves a small amount in the brake direction due to the trigger configuration. So i noticed that the pads where very slack on the discs. Tightened them up so i had around 1.5mm gap and Hey presto i have EXCELLENT stopping power. So for anyone else having braking issues of which ive seen so many threads just tighten the brake pads/disc mounts up up on the vertical pillars (2 screws per set of pads) to close the gap, hence the servo has to travel less to get friction and it will REALLY bite. So ive now ripped the Hitec servo back out and used that for the steering. and Put the original fast servo back in for the throttle. Put the springs back in and removed the tubbing and im now more than impressed.
Shame i wasted the money on the servo but i guess its always good to have a decent spare. I could prolly get most of my money back on ebay if i really needed as the original MG servo for the steering is fine to be honest. I also reckon you could get good results with the original discs rather than buying the cradocks (£6 for a pair) if your on a tight budget or dont have time but the cradock discs REALLY do give it a nice bite.
I just undo the brake rods by removing the stoppers on the servo end and slide rods out. Pop the rod off the carb slide (ball joint) Remove air filter. Now undo the 4 screws holding the top plate over the diff. Remove top plate followed by the brake pad towers. This will give you access to the diff so you can just pull it up and remove the centre dog bones to gain acces to the cups where the discs sit.
Make sure you screw the pad screws so you have ONLY a small 1-2mm gap to let the discs run free. Also make sure you locate propely in the slot on the base chasis. you'll see the bottom of the discs kinda sit in a channel.
Sounds difficult but really is a 10 min job to swap the discs out.
Many Thanks for all the replies. I managed to get Kyoscho plates and swapped them out, also replaced springs with tubing and then put a hitec 645MG hi torque servo (huge torque) Result brakes still naff..... Wasnt too happy as i had now spent around £50 trying to sort the braking issue. Spoke with the guy in the shop and he mentioned about setting the links up etc to my reply of being do you think im stupid (well it turns out YES i am stupid). I noticed no matter what servo your using it only moves a small amount in the brake direction due to the trigger configuration. So i noticed that the pads where very slack on the discs. Tightened them up so i had around 1.5mm gap and Hey presto i have EXCELLENT stopping power. So for anyone else having braking issues of which ive seen so many threads just tighten the brake pads/disc mounts up up on the vertical pillars (2 screws per set of pads) to close the gap, hence the servo has to travel less to get friction and it will REALLY bite. So ive now ripped the Hitec servo back out and used that for the steering. and Put the original fast servo back in for the throttle. Put the springs back in and removed the tubbing and im now more than impressed.
Shame i wasted the money on the servo but i guess its always good to have a decent spare. I could prolly get most of my money back on ebay if i really needed as the original MG servo for the steering is fine to be honest. I also reckon you could get good results with the original discs rather than buying the cradocks (£6 for a pair) if your on a tight budget or dont have time but the cradock discs REALLY do give it a nice bite.
I just undo the brake rods by removing the stoppers on the servo end and slide rods out. Pop the rod off the carb slide (ball joint) Remove air filter. Now undo the 4 screws holding the top plate over the diff. Remove top plate followed by the brake pad towers. This will give you access to the diff so you can just pull it up and remove the centre dog bones to gain acces to the cups where the discs sit.
Make sure you screw the pad screws so you have ONLY a small 1-2mm gap to let the discs run free. Also make sure you locate propely in the slot on the base chasis. you'll see the bottom of the discs kinda sit in a channel.
Sounds difficult but really is a 10 min job to swap the discs out.
#685
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
hi , thanks for all the info on the brakes and stuff , i have managed to get a little improvement but not much atall , i will just buy new disks and try those out and see what happens as im out of ideas.
Dont think i have posted my hyper st pro up so i though i would share my baby with you all
[8D]
[8D]






Dont think i have posted my hyper st pro up so i though i would share my baby with you all
[8D]
[8D]





#688
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
lol last week in a race a teem member lost his so i just took one out of my truck quickly as it was his final but i forgot to ask for it back [:@][:@]
ow well lol just a wing mount :
ow well lol just a wing mount :
#689
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From: Toronto,
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Lol yeah.
Im using the Himoto V2 High Downforce wing.
Suprisingly it did really make a differience.! Keeps the back more planted to the ground, plus makes a differience in the air
Sorry for the washed out pics, my main camera was out of battery that day.
If you want more just ask.

Im using the Himoto V2 High Downforce wing.
Suprisingly it did really make a differience.! Keeps the back more planted to the ground, plus makes a differience in the air

Sorry for the washed out pics, my main camera was out of battery that day.
If you want more just ask.

#690
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
nice truck dude ,
I thinking of selling mine , I just dont like the way it handles , Im not sure really i have put a lot of ££££ and still i havent been able to finsish a race because something goes wrong with it ...... maybe im just having a rrun of badluck but i really have hade just about enough of this truck ....
Anyways dude i like your st , i love that pipe it looks real good,
what engine is that ?
I thinking of selling mine , I just dont like the way it handles , Im not sure really i have put a lot of ££££ and still i havent been able to finsish a race because something goes wrong with it ...... maybe im just having a rrun of badluck but i really have hade just about enough of this truck ....
Anyways dude i like your st , i love that pipe it looks real good,
what engine is that ?
#691
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
i used a hong nor wing mount to push my h/d wing up because with the stock st ones it stays level with the body and i was told it wont do as much then ??? dont know if its tru though lol ?
#692
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From: Toronto,
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Ive never had a problem with mine, handles like a housefly, zips around corners.!
Thanks, im running an SH .28 with a JP 4 pipe.
Im using the stock wing mount just a diff. wing, its on the middle setting. When it was on the highest setting, it had tooo much downforce, in turns it was over kill, in the lowest setting, it hardly did anything.
Whats wrong with yours.? Ive bashed this thing quite hard, also been around a coupla tracks, never had a problem.
What engine are you running with it.? That may be the cause of your problems.
Thanks, im running an SH .28 with a JP 4 pipe.
Im using the stock wing mount just a diff. wing, its on the middle setting. When it was on the highest setting, it had tooo much downforce, in turns it was over kill, in the lowest setting, it hardly did anything.
Whats wrong with yours.? Ive bashed this thing quite hard, also been around a coupla tracks, never had a problem.
What engine are you running with it.? That may be the cause of your problems.
#693
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
im running 2 go 21 5ports , one i have done some linear work to and it bloody rips , so does the stock 21 5port.
i just really dont like the truck on the track ,
my brakes are rubbish and i have bought better disks to try , i find when i turn not to much happens its just like the back pushes the front along its really weaird ....
ive had so many problems with arms and stuff falling out 20 mins into a final ive just had enough of it ...... i have almost given up on it .... i personally find that my old hong nor was a better truggy ...
the team boss is lending me a kyosho mp777 str pro truggy with all the hop ups to try out for this weekends race . if i prefer it i think im gonna sell the st .
how ever i will run both trucks this week end to do a fair comparison ,
i just really dont like the truck on the track ,
my brakes are rubbish and i have bought better disks to try , i find when i turn not to much happens its just like the back pushes the front along its really weaird ....
ive had so many problems with arms and stuff falling out 20 mins into a final ive just had enough of it ...... i have almost given up on it .... i personally find that my old hong nor was a better truggy ...
the team boss is lending me a kyosho mp777 str pro truggy with all the hop ups to try out for this weekends race . if i prefer it i think im gonna sell the st .
how ever i will run both trucks this week end to do a fair comparison ,
#694
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From: Toronto,
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Sorry to hear about your experiences with it.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
First time ive heard of the problems your having.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
First time ive heard of the problems your having.
#695
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
ye will do mate ,
i can see great protensial with it but whether i can get the pretensial out is another thing .
(sorry for my spelling)
i can see great protensial with it but whether i can get the pretensial out is another thing .
(sorry for my spelling)
#696
ORIGINAL: kx_maduk
im running 2 go 21 5ports , one i have done some linear work to and it bloody rips , so does the stock 21 5port.
i just really dont like the truck on the track ,
my brakes are rubbish and i have bought better disks to try , i find when i turn not to much happens its just like the back pushes the front along its really weaird ....
ive had so many problems with arms and stuff falling out 20 mins into a final ive just had enough of it ...... i have almost given up on it .... i personally find that my old hong nor was a better truggy ...
the team boss is lending me a kyosho mp777 str pro truggy with all the hop ups to try out for this weekends race . if i prefer it i think im gonna sell the st .
how ever i will run both trucks this week end to do a fair comparison ,
im running 2 go 21 5ports , one i have done some linear work to and it bloody rips , so does the stock 21 5port.
i just really dont like the truck on the track ,
my brakes are rubbish and i have bought better disks to try , i find when i turn not to much happens its just like the back pushes the front along its really weaird ....
ive had so many problems with arms and stuff falling out 20 mins into a final ive just had enough of it ...... i have almost given up on it .... i personally find that my old hong nor was a better truggy ...
the team boss is lending me a kyosho mp777 str pro truggy with all the hop ups to try out for this weekends race . if i prefer it i think im gonna sell the st .
how ever i will run both trucks this week end to do a fair comparison ,
what is your setup ???? to me it sound slike your setup is all wrong...the Hyper is a strong turning machine unless you set it up not to be....
#697
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
You sound like you know what your doing, I mean you race.
Servos.? What are you using.?
Mine normally lifts a rear wheel up while turning, tarmac or dirt...
Brakes, I followed what another user ( sn00p ) posted, and they're fine now. Picked up a set of Racers Edge Super High Temp ones for a greater bite.
It sounds like something is stopping your Hyper from turning at full angle.
***edit***
Heres what mine looks like at full lock, I had to dial down my EPA's to around 60% so that the wheels dont rub the lower arms.
It turns like a cartoon.!
Servos.? What are you using.?
Mine normally lifts a rear wheel up while turning, tarmac or dirt...
Brakes, I followed what another user ( sn00p ) posted, and they're fine now. Picked up a set of Racers Edge Super High Temp ones for a greater bite.
It sounds like something is stopping your Hyper from turning at full angle.
***edit***
Heres what mine looks like at full lock, I had to dial down my EPA's to around 60% so that the wheels dont rub the lower arms.
It turns like a cartoon.!
#698
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
hi
im still running what ever oils the manual recommended . same as shock oils and springs.
carnt remeber what my toe in etc is because a member of the team did it ,
there are 3 types of tyre i run in general . the one on the left i dont know what its called or what rim its on but the other one is just stock hoboa dog bones.

im still running what ever oils the manual recommended . same as shock oils and springs.
carnt remeber what my toe in etc is because a member of the team did it ,
there are 3 types of tyre i run in general . the one on the left i dont know what its called or what rim its on but the other one is just stock hoboa dog bones.

#700
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From: cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
hi ,
i am almost 100% its not the angle of which my wheels can turn because i have set them up perfect . im using a futaba s3305 and s3050 on steering ( s3305 is in their know because of its torque ) and i have a hitec 665 i think and a futaba s3050 for throttle.
prehaps i should tear her all down and rebuild using stronger oils all round for shocks and diffs ? i really dont know .... maybe its just a simple mistake im making ? i really dont know .
i am almost 100% its not the angle of which my wheels can turn because i have set them up perfect . im using a futaba s3305 and s3050 on steering ( s3305 is in their know because of its torque ) and i have a hitec 665 i think and a futaba s3050 for throttle.
prehaps i should tear her all down and rebuild using stronger oils all round for shocks and diffs ? i really dont know .... maybe its just a simple mistake im making ? i really dont know .


