The diff oils and shock oil are just the wrong weight and too thin. A .21 engine is better suited for a buggy but the .28's are better for truggies unless you get a real high dollar $$$$$ .21. They do not have the torque of the bigger motors and the truggies are heavier so they are better.

Well I have ordered 3, 10 and 7,000 diff oils(all different brands oddly enough..) Shock oil yet to be determined...

My engine BTW is gonna be a brand-new Mach 427 and pipe pulled from a Muggy.. I love this engine in my LST2.. Remains to be seen though if I'll be able to mount it in the Hyper ST without other mods.. I hope so.. I also have a brand new Picco 28 with Ofna 086 sitting there, but that's intended for my LST2(as of now..)

Servos also yet to be determined(partially because it's yet to be determined which if any of my other trucks are gonna have to go..) Maybe DS1015 for steering, DS1313 for gas/brakes??

10/10/1..is that 10r/10c/10f..?? wow..

i use 5r/10c/7f.. losi oils..but with my sts.30(18 tooth bell screemer)thinking about 5r/20c/7f.??front ballons heeps(8ight rims with hyper pro tires)have got hyper pro rims with xtr xlb tires as well..

shocks= 1.4 drilled pistons with 60 wt losi shock..preloaded a little bit for big jumps. i take the spacers out when running around ..

sorry, that was 10f-10c-1r. will be upgrading my werks .21 engine to the new OS .28zx so hopefully that will go well.
And yes, i have heard ppl saying that .21s are better then .28s only if its a 7port+ engine. the werks i use is only a 3port but still was keeping up with .28s. just wondering about the fuel economy of .28s to .21s.

hyperD

__________________________________________________ ___________
-Hyper 8, nosram .21 evo buggy- hitec servos- helios ex-10 with spektrum
-Hyper st pro, werks .21 3port- hitec servos- helios ex-10 with spektrum
-Hyper 10 drift, LRP .15 spec2- spektrum servos- helios ex-10 with spektrum
-Team associate B4, nosram 4.5T brushless- nosram evo-matrix- helios ex-10 with spektrum

I've read that the Ninja 28 has great fuel economy, not sure about the OS tho.

OK, well, just picked this up at the post office...



Anyway, I need some help on a few points..:

1.) Engine - I have a brand new Mach 427 and pipe from a Muggy, which I was intending to use. I also have a brand new Picco 28 pullstart and an Ofna 086 for my LST2. I could use the Picco in the Hyper.. I could even sell both and buy a Ninja or OS 28... If I get this thing together in time, I might even run it at first with an already broken in Axial 28 Spec 1S...

Anyway, my gut feeling is go with the Mach, cuz I like the one in my LST2 so much, and this thing being so much lighter, and the 8T RTR being so fast, I would expect it to move the HST pretty well.. Am I right?? I ask cuz I have an Axial 28RR in my Savage which goes pretty well, but it was a totol t-urd in my single-speed Muggy....

2.) Is the included pipe any good?? Or should I sell it??.. I have the Muggy pipe and the 086, and need to recoup as much dough as possible.

3.) I'm gonna dye the rims black. So I want a black wing.. I'm guessing dying a wing is a no-go?? If so, how about the Himoto wings?? Any good??

BTW, also gonna use Proline moulded foams for it, cuz the stockers feel too soft...

4.) Servos - I'm thinking 2x DS1313's?? Or DS1015 or Hitec 5955 if I can find any of the above used for a good price... Gonna scour the forums and e-bay and try to find a good deal... What servos should I keep an eye out for that are comparable - but not more expensive - than the ones I mentioned??

5.) Finally, I really can't decide on a paint-scheme.. I have a can of black, blue, sky blue, and silver.. And on't want to buy more - but I would buy some orange or yellow cuz I think that might look neat.. Any suggestions for a dark-blue/light-blue paint scheme?? Something simple that I'm not likely to botch.. Is the stock body durable, or will it just get shredded quick anyway??

6.) Diffs.. I bought 3000, 7000, 10000, and have an old unopened bottle of Losi 30000... I'm assuming 3-10-7 is the way to go... But I keep reading that cuz of the center spider diff people are doing different things....

That's all for now I think...

Thanks..

You took the cat from the office[X(] Thats mean LOL. I have 7-10-5 in my hyper but it has a little on power push but not bad. My try putting 15k in the center. I run a JR650 servo for steering and I know alot of people say you need over 200oz torque for steering but I love this servo it does fine for me, I think it has somewhere aroung 150oz or so, not sure.

Hey guys, I took my hyper to a smaller track yesterday with alot of sharp turns in it and noticed I had some push coming out of the turns when I hit the throttle, I guess you would call it not so much on power steering coming out of a turn. It was fine on the larger track I went to but with no problems. Off power steering coming into the turn and in the turn was fine, just when I hit the throttle exiting it would want to push toward the outside. I am wondering if I should put thicker oil in the center diff or in the front. I think the center but not sure. I have 7-10-5 in it right now. My friend sent me this awhile ago but it says to increase on power steering to thicken the front but also says it for the center. I have not seen too many people put higher that 7 in the front which I have now so that is why I am thinking the center to increase. Here is what he sent me:


here is the scoop on diff oils.

There is actually lots on here about diff oil s if you search for diff oil s, but for those who may have missed the info here is a quick summary

Front
Thinner :
increases steering into corners (off-power)
if oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent, especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners

Thicker:
increases stability into corners during braking
increases steering on-power at corner exit

Center
Thinner:
front wheels unload more during acceleration
decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
easier to drive on rough tracks
if a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook� the oil in the center diff erential because it “overloads�

Thicker:
more all-wheel drive effect
better acceleration
increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle

Rear
Thinner:
increases cornering traction
increases steering into corner

Thicker:
decreases rear traction while cornering
reduces wheelspin

My two cents:

2.- The pipe included is for 28 engines, so I suppose it's like a 086 or a JP2 pipe, for top end, since 28's have a lot of torque.

3.- I've read that Himoto Wings are good quality. Pro-Line's Molded foams does not fit the stock wheels I think? The ones I know will fit are the Losi but I'm not sure about their quality.

4.- You listed nice servos there!

5.- Well i'm not into custom painted bodies so I just use a solid paint, but that's just me.

6.- Always use thicker oil in the front and lighter in the back, try 7-10-3

Here's what i did with 2 shades of blue (On road body of course but you get the idea):

Thanks guys.. In the end I opted for a very basic black and silver scheme.. We'll see how it turns out..

(Can't decide if I should dye the rims black.. The low profile tires would mean scratches on the rims, which would be white and yeah well kinda' yucky lookin'..)

'Been reading on another site about other wheels options.. What's this about having to have these extender adaptor thingies to run certain size rims?? In general I think I'll end up wanting a somewhat wider stance.., so would like to run some Jammin offset rims.. What I'd really like is to just throw a set of preglued Losi 8T RR wheels on there.. I assume that's doable?? But what, I just won't have as much offset effect or what??

Would be cool if somebody could in simple terms clarify this wheel deal...

Thanks..

you shouldn't have any problems mounting any 17mm wheel. The Losi wheels and tires seem to be nice.

Now, if I understand correctly, the Losi rims for ex would give a tad more offset though, right??

Anyway, it just sounded like to get offset with the HST you need these adaptors..

Just look at a pic of for ex a Mugen truggy - MUCH wider looking than the Hyper.. I'll be bashing a bit, so want some offset..


ps I've browsed this thread, and didn't see a detailed description of mounting the Hyper 8.5 battery box?? Would someone be so kind?? If this is really a necessary mod I guess I'll keep my out for the box.... I don't particularly mind zip-ties, but then again I will be bashing, so yeah, don't wanna' lose the bat on some dumb cartwheeling crash...

http://hypercentral.18.forumer.com/i...?showtopic=592

hope this helps ya.....

Well I drove my hyper for the 3rd time today and all I can say is SMOOOOOOOOTH![8D][8D][8D] This thing drives so nice. Its like there is not even any bumps on the track compared to my other 2 truggies I run.

yep that's what my uncle and dad think, their ST's are very stable and they do great in the air.

I ran in the final ROAR Summer Sizzler Series race this Saturday and the Hyper ST ran like a champ. I won all three of my heats and qualified for the sportsman A-main. I finished 5th, but the Hyper worked flawlessly. I'm beginning to get more comfortable with the truck and the way it handles. It drives totally different than the TTR ST-1. The truck is built rock solid. I had no broken parts or mechanical issues. It feels great to race all day and not have repair your vehicle.

I have stated this before. The LRP Z.28R is a terrific mill. I think my engine has finally heat the sweet spot. I have 2 gallons through it now and it could not be any better. I'm getting run times of 7 to 7.5 minutes with 9.0 carb restrictor.(great speed and power). I switched to a 13t clutch bell with 053 mid-range pipe and I am pleased with the results.

What shock oil is recommended?? Something basic for all-around - maybe more on the hard side for bashing a bit more..

I put 60wt in all 4 of mine and love it. I guess it is the way I drive though because I have that in all of my truggies and am happy with them.

patrick the losi premount truggy tires are offset and work good. i run them on my st. they are the same
diameter as the stock wheels and tires, but they are offset about a half inch. my diffs started at 5-7-1
then went 5-10-2 and now im at 7-10-2. that seems to work good for my track. like jaywax i am pleased
with the lrp spec 3, has plenty of power. the shocks have 60wf 40w r. hope this helps.

I was marshaling jaywax's race, his truck looked very good out there!!

sup jaywax i finally got my st1 with a bunch of hop ups on it for $175 shipped off a guy at rc tech. happy to hear about ur new ride,now lets see some of ur new and always awsome videos

Those videos are from a guy named Griz who films around the Austin-San Antonio-Dallas-Houston area. If you go to the member video post section you can see a lot of his stuff. He stated last week that he will no longer film races because of the expenses and that he is physically unable to do so. He has some illness that prevents him from working at times. I hope he gets better and decides to come back out and film. His films are notch.

hi guys.. i just got a very good deal on a hyper st rtr.. im planning to do some upgrades.. which are the parts that will need upgrading? i race occasionally buggy class, running an x1-cr and use to own a x1-crt. im planning to race the hyper st soon. i only got the kit, no engines or electronics.. im putting in my jammin .28 with a tsais .28 pipe. i hate the stock radio box.. i seen ppl use the hyper 8.5 radio box. is it a direct fit or do i need to do some modification. also.. it will help to know if there is any common problems on the truggy. are the arms prone to breaking? my crt breaks arms occasionally. thanks in advance guys.

joe, read a few pages back in this thread and you will find a thread of how to install the 8.5 radio box.

The ST is a very tough truck, I have yet to see it break!