OK, a little update..

First, I finished the body.. Was gonna do black and orange, but backed off the orange in the end and went with silver.. The scheme turned out better than I expected, though the execution was far from perfect...

I like it though..

Here a pic of my little workplace in the hotel room.. Here for a week absolutely in the middle of nowhere near the Polish border (big mining company..)- part of the reason I got the kit when I did...

And here a pic of the front diff assebly freshly screwed onto the chassis.. Threw a few of the shinier and more impressive looking pieces in just for show..

Must say, the part quality is unlike anything I've ever seen.. Everybody talks about how great X-Ray and Mugen quality is.. Must be something.. For me this stuff is amazing.. Lot of REALLY quality looking stuff here.. When I first saw the 8T RR I was quite underwhelmed.. One, it looked so small, and two, well, it didn't look weak or anything, but nor did it scream "TOUGH" like some of these parts do.. Hard to say for sure though til it's all together.. The arms are really cool and tough looking BTW... Maybe pics of them later...

that paint scheme looks pretty bad assed !!! Looks like some future badass Robocop car .... Looks pretty mean anyways !!! Black rims would really add the evil as well

if your worried about the black dye getting scratched on the wheels, then consider getting a custom wheel vinyl made, or use one of he cool once already on the market.....

Thanks.. Rims to be dyed black, and a black wing soon to be ordered(my only compaint about the Hyper ST Pro so far - the white rims and wing - but that's just not my taste.. And yeah, hardly something to b.itch about) I just put the front shock tower on - this thing is BEEF...

the only neg i see about the hyper is the fact that the aluminum parts are forged/cast, not billet... so they mold the part then cnc it to make it look pretty. so im curious to see how that stuff holds up? ya know how everyone hates integy? well the hyper has all integy aluminum. hopefully the pieces are thick enough to counter act the softness?

That's what they call raining on a parade I think.. Oh well, we'll see..

Imagine the blingy billet upgrade possiblitities ?????

ya could be, but maybe that factory stuff will hold up fine? its really freakin thick! but i suppose some billet towers would be thinner and lighter...[8D]
the hyper is so wicked i dont care about the integy shock towers! lol..

you can get black wings already..

i too noticed that the towers were cast but i have landed many times on the front upside down with the front tower taking the hit and no probs..if there are after market stuff , i think they would only be lighter not stronger..time will tell..

Just to clarify, when you say the Hyper has "all Integy aluminum".., do you mean the stuff comes right out of the same factory as the Integy stuff, or that it's just made the same way??

I've never even seen Integy stuff up close, cuz I've only ever heard how horrible it is.. I do however have Integy tierod eliminators on my Savage, and so far so great..(Integra recommended them, so I figured they were safe...)

One thing about the ST Pro bits, they match the cooling head of my Mach!!...
(yes that was being ironic...)

no theyre not made by integy, but same process... cast likes to snap, not bend. but bein that the towers are so thick it might not be an issue?

I have a question isn't all aluminum cast at some point? Think about it, at the aluminum factory they take the aluminum melt it down and cast big blocks for the industry. The different grades are different alloys they add to the aluminum. I don't know a lot but I seen this show called Modern marvels and it was on how aluminum is made. I think Integy is a really low grade aluminum http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=re...swrOjnfm7ll9Qw

I hope this link works it is very informative

its called billet when it comes from the factory, some people choose to machine the billet into shape, some mold it. not sure why, but the casting process make it weaker than billet thats been machined. at least thats what ive always been told.
maybe some aluminum person will see this and explain for us! lol.. if you break a cast piece and look at the inside it looks grainy? maybe the process that the companies use to cast causes that? i now every hobby ive been into the same logic applies... billet is always better.


here.. maybe this explains it? the process is very strict when it comes out of a factory as billit.

"Alcoa’s billets are produced to provide the best performance at the extrusion press in terms of speeds, surface finish and mechanical properties. Before casting, the molten metal is treated to ensure it is clean and free of excessive hydrogen contamination. Alcoa extrusion ingot is virtually free of dross, porosities, metallic inclusions, oxides or other undesirable contamination and discontinuities. The chemical trace elements are controlled to a very low contamination level. The internal microstructure is modified through a controlled thermal treatment known as homogenizing process. The main objectives for homogenizing the billets are: minimize the detrimental effect of the “as cast� Fe phases, eliminate grain or micro- segregation and break up the intermetallic constituents producing a well refined easier to extrude microstructure."


maybe when a 3rd party casts a piece the process isnt as good?

in that link you provided theres some intersting facts.. but it doesnt answer our question...

cast alloys use a different number system, there will be a decimal point.

The Aluminium Association (AA) has adopted a nomenclature similar to that of wrought alloys. British Standard and DIN have different designations. In the AA system, the second two digits reveal the minimum percentage of aluminium, e.g. 150.x correspond to a minimum of 99.50% aluminium. The digit after the decimal point takes a value of 0 or 1, denoting casting and ingot respectively [4]. The main alloying elements in the AA system are as follows:

* 1xx.x series are minimum 99% aluminium
* 2xx.x series copper
* 3xx.x series silicon, copper and/or magnesium
* 4xx.x series silicon
* 5xx.x series magnesium
* 7xx.x series zinc
* 8xx.x series tin
* 9xx.x series miscellaneous


wrought/aerospace alloys.

* 7075 aluminium
* 6061 aluminium
* 6063 aluminium
* 2024 aluminium
* 5052 aluminium

notice theres no cast numbers there? so why wouldnt the aerospace program use cast aluminum? probably because its inferior...

7000 series are alloyed with zinc, and can be precipitation hardened to the highest strengths of any aluminium alloy. what we want are 7075 parts, no decimal point.

Do I need to put grease inside the diff case?? In my Savage X SS instructions it says to.. It's too late for the front, but I'm in the middle of the rear at the mo...

dont use the greese they supplied with ya kit...its crap...use a good quality diff oil..there are many weights of it..do a little search in this thred and other threds and you will find the answers to your questions..(been asked a zillion times)..cheers

I would not run it unless you have greased the ring and pinion gears in the diffs.

Not what I meant.. The diffs are sorted - ON THE INSIDE(and with silicone oil - not grease, which is what I'm talking about..) I mean just before putting the whole front or rear end assembly on the chassis... In the Savage instructions it's clearly stated - put grease on the OUTSIDE teeth of the main diff gear before attaching the skid plate..(and inside the cups where the bones go for that matter..)

Whatever the case, I did it on the rear, but not the front..

Only wanted to ask if this is something important enough to go take the front end off and put some grease in there...

Oooooooo kaaaaaay....'(crap, but thanks..) I'll take the front end back off....

Also, the angles of the axles seem WAY off.., even though I've been following the instructions to a tee....

OK, diff greased...

But now I notice I have an AWFUL lot of play in my servo saver.. What's up with that??

Also, in the front arms I have exactly 7.5mm as per the manual, but my camber is way off.. Heh??

I think both my servos are fried. I got ready to go the track last night and charged my batteries and stuff. And this morning when I went out to the track I turned my hyper on and nothing happened. I made sure the reciever was on and the transmitter and NOTHING! I thought maybe the battey took a dump on me and did not hold a charge so I left that alone and ran other stuff. When I got back home I removed the battery and put in my 8ight and monsoon and it worked fine, so I thought maybe the reciever was bad. I took a spare servo and plugged it in the reciever and it worked fine (throttle and steering) I connected the servos that were not working in monsoon and they did not work. What could cause this? The only thing I can think of is that I have a pigtail on the battery so I can charge it without disconnecting it from the on/off switch or reciever, if I by mistake left the switch on and charged it would the charge have gone into the servos and messed them up or is it something else? I have the same thing on my 8ight buggy and have not had a problem. Please help. It just cost me about 100.00

This is what my servo-saver looks like.. I could easily fit another bearing in that gap...

thats how it is... but it doesnt move up and down, it presses against the bearing race. i was thinking an oring would be a good idea there? itll help keep dirt out, and look better....

no need for bearing, oring might be hard to get to stay there, tighten that sucker down though, should be half way up or higher with a 200oz servo. the servo saver is mainly for hard bumps or landings, if it affects your turning tighten it down. pain is you have to take off the whole front end to do so.

1/2 way up?? OK... That must be the problem with my Muggy... Has the turning radius of an oil tanker.. OK, it's got 15 deg carriers, but still..

So 1/2 way up it is then..

Does the brand of shock and diff oil matter? or is oil just oil?

I hope not, I have three different brands - one for each diff..

ps Can someone recommend which servo for gas/brakes from A-main, preferably Hitec(or other brand if there's something better for a good price..), and $75 max?? Think I'm gonna go with the 5955 for steering...