the hyper st PRO thread!
#126
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From: TilburgNoord Brabant, NETHERLANDS
I'm a noob at actualy driving nitro cars in anger but I guess you could put a heavier oil in the center diff so if the front has less traction the front wheels will not spin that uncontrolled. I think the heavier the oil the more the RPM of the front and rear center drive shafts are the same and sort of dictated by the axle with the most grip. Maybe you are still a bit trigger happy on the throttle or the engine has too much torque.
I'm going for a 3,5CC engine.
@j_blaze
I guess I didn't read your post well, so please ignore my previous remark about how I didn't understand how it would work. I thought you were talking about the front diff.
I'm going for a 3,5CC engine.
@j_blaze
I guess I didn't read your post well, so please ignore my previous remark about how I didn't understand how it would work. I thought you were talking about the front diff.
#128
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From: Chinnor, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi,
Ive seen a few comments about a battery mod that people have done to their hypers - What is the mod and why is it needed? Pictures would be a great help as I dont have my hyper YET!
Thanks in advance
Ive seen a few comments about a battery mod that people have done to their hypers - What is the mod and why is it needed? Pictures would be a great help as I dont have my hyper YET!
Thanks in advance
#131
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From: McAllen,
TX
yes, it's in both truggies, the hyper 8 box is sealed by a body clip, the hyper 8.5 box is sealed by 3 screws and you can put a bigger 5 AAA hump battery packs, for example, I use in my 8.5 buggy a Team Helotes 2600mAh Battery pack but it only fits in the H8.5 box and not in the H8 one.
#132
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: droidswarm
Hi,
Ive seen a few comments about a battery mod that people have done to their hypers - What is the mod and why is it needed? Pictures would be a great help as I dont have my hyper YET!
Thanks in advance
Hi,
Ive seen a few comments about a battery mod that people have done to their hypers - What is the mod and why is it needed? Pictures would be a great help as I dont have my hyper YET!
Thanks in advance
#133
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From: winter garden,
FL
Well just ran my new hyper st pro today for the first time since building it and all I can say is WOW!! I can see the difference in buying a car with all the upgrades compared to a rtr. This truggy felt like it was on rails and that is straight out of the box with no tuning or adjustments yet. Just point it to where you want to go and hit the gas and it goes there straight as an arrow! Have to do a little more tuning on the motor since i did not get a chance to run to long tonight due to some minor lighting problems. As far as hitting the jumps, it flies level as a can be and eats up rough sections of the track like you were on a flat surface. I could not believe it. My mantis was all over the place on the bumps but this thing felt like it was cutting through it.
I do have one question or concern:
I need to get it to steer more. I have my settings on my spektrum for the steering turned all the way up to 125% and it does not steer to sharp. With the car off I can turn the wheels with my hand more than the servo is turning them. I know on the steering plate there is 3 different holes for adjusting ackerman but I do not know which hole does what. Right now I have in in the center holes. Where should I put them. Is there also any other adjustment that can make it turn sharper?
I do have one question or concern:
I need to get it to steer more. I have my settings on my spektrum for the steering turned all the way up to 125% and it does not steer to sharp. With the car off I can turn the wheels with my hand more than the servo is turning them. I know on the steering plate there is 3 different holes for adjusting ackerman but I do not know which hole does what. Right now I have in in the center holes. Where should I put them. Is there also any other adjustment that can make it turn sharper?
#135
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From: winter garden,
FL
it seems like it turns more the left than the right but only a very little difference. What do mean my adjusting the servo horn?[
] I feel stupid asking that but my mind is blank.
] I feel stupid asking that but my mind is blank.
#136
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From: McAllen,
TX
take the steering servo horn out, then turn the radio and truck on, make sure the steering servo is on the center position while it's on, also try to put the setting of the steering servo in the radio on default, then put the front wheels in the center and without moving them just screw back the servo horn, then start making adjustments with the EPA in the radio (End Point Adjustment).
I hope I explained myself well, I'm from Mexico and still having trouble with english
I hope I explained myself well, I'm from Mexico and still having trouble with english
#137
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From: winter garden,
FL
oh, you mean the servo arm. that is what I call it. The arm that screws onto the servo. I already did what you said. I first put the car on with the horn off and I have my steering trim set at 0 or nuetral (straight ahead.) made sure the wheels were straight and then put the horn on and adjusted from there but I did not have to adjust. It was perfect and the wheels were straight. Any idea on the holes on the steering plate.
#140
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From: winter garden,
FL
I have a jr650 servo on it. I do have a long servo horn it but now that I think about it I do not have the steering arm on the top hole of the horn, I have it I think one up from the bottom so if I put it on the top hole it would turn the wheels more even with the servo turning the same amount! DUH![:@] I will have to try that. Thanks for the idea. Any other ideas in case does not work which I think it will.
I was wondering why it did not turn like I though when all the mags said it was like a buggy. It did feel like a buggy driving it except for the steering.
I was wondering why it did not turn like I though when all the mags said it was like a buggy. It did feel like a buggy driving it except for the steering.
#141
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From: winter garden,
FL
Well I moved the arm up to the highest hole on the servo horn and the wheels do turn more than they did before but I did not get a chance to drive it yet. Does anyone still know anything about he 3 adjustment holes on the steering plate and which hole to put it the steering arms in? I have them set in the middle hole for now.
#142
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
[quote]ORIGINAL: vnmsgt
I have it I think one up from the bottom so if I put it on the top hole it would turn the wheels more even with the servo turning the same amount! DUH![:@] I will have to try that. Thanks for the idea. Any other ideas in case does not work which I think it will.
that will be it mate..it will work..put it on the top hole..it will give you the max steering..then set ya epa so it stops just before..canrt go wrong
#143
ORIGINAL: vnmsgt
Well just ran my new hyper st pro today for the first time since building it and all I can say is WOW!! I can see the difference in buying a car with all the upgrades compared to a rtr. This truggy felt like it was on rails and that is straight out of the box with no tuning or adjustments yet. Just point it to where you want to go and hit the gas and it goes there straight as an arrow! Have to do a little more tuning on the motor since i did not get a chance to run to long tonight due to some minor lighting problems. As far as hitting the jumps, it flies level as a can be and eats up rough sections of the track like you were on a flat surface. I could not believe it. My mantis was all over the place on the bumps but this thing felt like it was cutting through it.
I do have one question or concern:
I need to get it to steer more. I have my settings on my spektrum for the steering turned all the way up to 125% and it does not steer to sharp. With the car off I can turn the wheels with my hand more than the servo is turning them. I know on the steering plate there is 3 different holes for adjusting ackerman but I do not know which hole does what. Right now I have in in the center holes. Where should I put them. Is there also any other adjustment that can make it turn sharper?
Well just ran my new hyper st pro today for the first time since building it and all I can say is WOW!! I can see the difference in buying a car with all the upgrades compared to a rtr. This truggy felt like it was on rails and that is straight out of the box with no tuning or adjustments yet. Just point it to where you want to go and hit the gas and it goes there straight as an arrow! Have to do a little more tuning on the motor since i did not get a chance to run to long tonight due to some minor lighting problems. As far as hitting the jumps, it flies level as a can be and eats up rough sections of the track like you were on a flat surface. I could not believe it. My mantis was all over the place on the bumps but this thing felt like it was cutting through it.
I do have one question or concern:
I need to get it to steer more. I have my settings on my spektrum for the steering turned all the way up to 125% and it does not steer to sharp. With the car off I can turn the wheels with my hand more than the servo is turning them. I know on the steering plate there is 3 different holes for adjusting ackerman but I do not know which hole does what. Right now I have in in the center holes. Where should I put them. Is there also any other adjustment that can make it turn sharper?
#144
that jr 650 isnt strong enough you need a servo with at least 200 oz or more of torque. the servo cam may be needed to tighten down more as well
#145
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From: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
My summary of 2 months of ownership.
+It's strong, only broken a few parts
+It is fairly easy to work on
+Diffs don't leak
+Smooth over jumps
+handles well with some tweaking
+it looks good
-stripped a rear diff, no idea how
-exhaust a little exposed, my $100 Nosram pipe has some nasty dents and dings in it
-Stock battery holder is rubbish, was not easy converting to the better Hyper 8 battery box (Stoopid Hobao)
-Bodies a little thin, just ordered my 3rd after cracking the orginal 2 (I do crash a lot though)
-had some oversteer issues that took a while to resolve.
Still a good truggy, better than my HB Lightning Pro R, probably in the same top group as the Mugen MBX5 Prospect and the Hong Nor X1CRT Pro.
+It's strong, only broken a few parts
+It is fairly easy to work on
+Diffs don't leak
+Smooth over jumps
+handles well with some tweaking
+it looks good
-stripped a rear diff, no idea how
-exhaust a little exposed, my $100 Nosram pipe has some nasty dents and dings in it
-Stock battery holder is rubbish, was not easy converting to the better Hyper 8 battery box (Stoopid Hobao)
-Bodies a little thin, just ordered my 3rd after cracking the orginal 2 (I do crash a lot though)
-had some oversteer issues that took a while to resolve.
Still a good truggy, better than my HB Lightning Pro R, probably in the same top group as the Mugen MBX5 Prospect and the Hong Nor X1CRT Pro.
#147
ORIGINAL: Zonk
My summary of 2 months of ownership.
+It's strong, only broken a few parts
+It is fairly easy to work on
+Diffs don't leak
+Smooth over jumps
+handles well with some tweaking
+it looks good
-stripped a rear diff, no idea how
-exhaust a little exposed, my $100 Nosram pipe has some nasty dents and dings in it
-Stock battery holder is rubbish, was not easy converting to the better Hyper 8 battery box (Stoopid Hobao)
-Bodies a little thin, just ordered my 3rd after cracking the orginal 2 (I do crash a lot though)
-had some oversteer issues that took a while to resolve.
Still a good truggy, better than my HB Lightning Pro R, probably in the same top group as the Mugen MBX5 Prospect and the Hong Nor X1CRT Pro.
My summary of 2 months of ownership.
+It's strong, only broken a few parts
+It is fairly easy to work on
+Diffs don't leak
+Smooth over jumps
+handles well with some tweaking
+it looks good
-stripped a rear diff, no idea how
-exhaust a little exposed, my $100 Nosram pipe has some nasty dents and dings in it
-Stock battery holder is rubbish, was not easy converting to the better Hyper 8 battery box (Stoopid Hobao)
-Bodies a little thin, just ordered my 3rd after cracking the orginal 2 (I do crash a lot though)
-had some oversteer issues that took a while to resolve.
Still a good truggy, better than my HB Lightning Pro R, probably in the same top group as the Mugen MBX5 Prospect and the Hong Nor X1CRT Pro.
I noticed that I had a too much play in my rear diff, so I added a extra shim (gear side).
I have no problem with the battery box. The zip ties work fine.
#148
the body is a little thin? for real dude? that damn thing is thicker than prolines or jconcepts!! its a freakin tank of a lid... weighs a ton even. i doubt a serious racer would even run it....
#150
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From: winter garden,
FL
That body is as thick as a proline but will melt as easily as a thin one. Melted mine right onto the pipe my first run. I usually put heat shield on my bodies but ran out. Should have waited.


