Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Rebel, at 15lb it could well be a Platt built FW, if it has a concealed Beckman hinge for the rudder it probably is - I am using a Moki 180 in mine, she weighs in at 22.5 lb which includes about 16oz of lead in the nose to get CG located at about 28% MAC. Another reason for mine coming in at a high weight is that it has Sierra retracts, not the wimpy non-scale ones Dave sells and a functional, Solo three bladed variable pitch prop which is shown in the photograph. I am in the process of moving the two RX batteries up into the engine bay and have replaced the heavy scale tail wheel with a flight foam wheel which in total will enable me to reduce total weight by about 16oz - the flight weight will still be around 21lb's.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

That's a couple of beautiful airplanes! Nice job Spitpilot.

Wow, 15 pounds! I saved about an ounce off the tail feathers from the plan target, used 4# balsa to sheet with, and cut back on the motor mount structure for the electric. I even weighed the sheets before I sheeted the wings to avoid having to laterally balance the wing as much as I could. I didn't go nuts trying to save weight, but am still coming in at a little over 18 lbs! Of course, that's with 4 1/2 pounds of motor and batteries in the nose.

I've heard that Dave could build them light, but that's pretty amazing!

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Ampeater, yes, 15lb is very light - mine weighs in at around 21lb and like you worked pretty hard to keep tail feather weight down but then went and added a scale tail gear from Sierra - shaved 2oz in the tail by using a foam T/Wheel but did not bash out the fuselage formers like Dave apparently does. I also weighed the balsa wing sheeting and apart from some lateral weight on one side of the engine compartment to counteract the muffler weight did not have to add any additional weight for lateral balance.
What motor and battery packs will you be using?

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I have an AXI 5330-F3A. Right now I'm still tweaking the batteries. I tested it with 10S2P A123 and a 20x10 prop, but only got about 1480 watts and 5800 rpm. So I'm goin to bump it up to 11S which, based on the 10S numbers, should give me about 6300 rpm and 1850 watts with a 20x10; or maybe 6200 rpm and 2150 watts with a 20x12. Anyway, I need to make up one more 6S pack to test it as an 11S.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Why such a big prop - if you can get around 7500-8000 rpm with an 18x10 I think you will get better overall performance and it won't be as draggy at low speed - I am using an 18x8 to start with and hoping to eventually use an 18x10 after the Moki is really broken in.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Well, such is the nature of electric. The motor always wants to turn at so many rpm per volt. In my case, the motor is turning about 200 rpm per volt, so if I wanted to turn at 8000 rpm I'd have to run it at about 40 volt, but my battery is only about 33 volts. The motor will always try to turn at 200 rpm per volt, no matter the size of the prop, it just pulls more current as the prop gets bigger. Since the voltage and rpm/volt is fixed, the only way to get the power up to a reasonable level is to put a bigger prop on it to raise the current (power=volts x current). That's why electrics usually run a bigger prop slower.

So if I put an 18x10 prop on it, it would still turn at about 6300 rpm and it wouldn't put out enough power.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks for the explanation ampeater, sounds reasonable come to think about it a little more.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Most of the paint is done. I'm learning that I'm more of a builder than a painter, but hey, it's my first glass and paint job. The plan was to cut the masking tape to the wavy shape and feather close to it with the paint. But it took 3 very light coats and by the time I was done there was no feathering, so it's a sharp line now. Also, had some bleeding thru the tape, and the tape pulled some paint off a few aluminum pieces, so I have a bit of touch up.

Problem is that the paint is like a blackboard now and everything that touches it (like a hand during assembly) makes a white streak. Do you guys usually use a clear coat? I'm using Behr exterior latex.

Wheels haven't gotten here yet, so I guess I'll do some touchup and start on the markings.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

I used Warbird colors, a water based paint which has a Crosslinker additive to make it fuel proof to 15% Nitro. I used a soft edge masking tape used in the automotive industry, made by 3M to get my soft edge between the camo colors and then blended the fuse camo patches with an airbrush - worked really great and have to thank Evan Quiros and his terrific build web site for this and other ideas.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Spitpilot, do you have a link to Evan Quiros' site, I'm always trying to learn what I can. I was thinking of getting the 3M soft edge tape, but it was outside my budget. Can't remember exactly, but it was well over $100 for 50 feet or so. On the wing I used 1" painters tape and rolled it in a tube before laying it down. When I sprayed I made sure to stay perpendicular to it so no to spray under it. I'm very happy with the soft line it gave, but I don't know why I didn't do it on the fuse. Oh well, hopefully I can soften up the line with some touch up.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Here is the link - http://www.evoshangar.com/home.html - you will find some really great ideas and if you have questions Evan is only to willing to help out. I found the 3M soft edge tape at my local automotive paint store, 1/2" wide X 150' long for about $40 - $50

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Finally, most of the painting is done, just a bit of touch up and the crosses on the bottom of the wing is left. The biggest job left is finishing the gear covers. Then finish installing the radio and making a latch for the gun hood. I'm thinking about making it so pushing on the MGs opens the hood. In the hood I'll put all the charge and fill jacks, switches, and a jumper for the ESC.

Looks like the AUW will be 18 lbs 4 oz, assuming I can run with the 10S pack. I put a 20x13 prop on it but haven't test run it with this prop yet, but it should get me to about 1800 watts, we'll see.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Looking really nice. Rich

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, Rich. It feels good finally getting close to ready for the maiden.

I knew those leftover springs from the Dewalt battery packs I broke open would come in handy. I made the gun hood latch. Push on the port MG to pop the hood open. The only downside is that the guns get in the way of taking the cowl off, so I'll have to take out the 2 screws holding the guns in to get the cowl off. Shouldn't be too much of a pain, if it is I'll put some hinges on the cowl and turn it into a clamsheel like the full scale somewhere down the road.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

That is a neat design for a hatch release. I will keep that in mind. Rich

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

The radio is in and the air is plumbed, starting to do the final setup.

I'm trying to figure out what throws to go with, none are shown on the plans. I'm thinking about 5/8" ailerons, 3/4" elevator. and 2" rudder. Any suggestions on whether that sounds about right for an 80" warbird?

orygg

Hi here is mine dave platt fw 190 lots off work[sm=bananahead.gif]

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

It's hard to get time to stay inside and build this time of year, even though it's always a nice cool constant 68 degrees in the basement.

But I'm trying to put the final push on so I can get in some flights so I can take it to the Mercer County warbird fly-in in September.

I'm working on the landing gear spats. If the covers were one-piece, then they would dig into the ground when the strut compresses on landing and you'd get a nose-over. So I stole the idea from Tom Pierce (who I think credited Wulf 190) and cut the cover in half and mounted the top half to the strut body and the lower half to the strut with the tire. Now the bottom half of the cover can ride with the tire as it bounces around. I made a slider out of telescoping pieces of aluminum tube as a guide for the lower cover. Took a bunch of time, but it's finally there. Now onto the other side. After this, I'll finish the hatch latch and off to the field. I hope my buddy is around with his video camera.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif] Nice work man. Doors came out great. Fun to see those at work when they move. Getting close!

Mike

pimpedaccord

My Feedback: (21)

Which wood kit did you use, or did you cut the wood yourself?

rayjr

Ampeater,
Great Build! I'm seriously looking to build this plane. Did I read correctly that you hand cut this kit yourself? The price to have it cut was a little steep, thats why I'm asking. Also I'm looking at a DL 50 for power, what do you guys think?

Thanks,
Ray.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Here's how the FW190 Sis-T gear look.
The full size FW190 has split doors. The lower door telescopes along with the wheel. The telescoping part for the gear cove resides in a slotted fixture that is attached to the fixed upper gear cover.

rayjr

I just ordered the Short Kit from Platt. Can anyone shead some light on Kit Cutters? I got what I think is a good quote from Kit Cutters, but then recieved an Email stating that they were too busy! Does anyone know what the cost of the wood would be to build this plane? Can anyone suggest another company to cut this kit?

Thanks,
Ray.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Have you tried these guys.

http://www.precisioncutkits.com/

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I hand cut my kits so I can't really speak for any cutters. Takes more time, but hey, that's part of it. IIRC, it took about $125 or so worth of balsa, the most expensive part is the contest grade for the skins.