paladin...what size saito is that again? A 180 or 220? The muffler looks too small for a 220 tho.

kahlog, thats a saito 1.5

joe

I'm in Louisville, KY, altitude/ air density has never been an issue for us here.
The box on the CMP 109 says it requires a 1.80-1.80 engine...I have an MVVS 1.6 gasoline engine that looks like a good mate for this plane.

- 1 cylinder
- Displacement: 1.600 cubic inches
- Bore: 1.299 (in.)
- Stroke In: 1.181 (in.)
- High RPM: 9000
- 3.750 bhp @ 9000 RPM
- Weight (no muffler): 37.04 oz.


Anyone have thoughts on how good of a match that is for this plane ?

Sean.. I am getting one of these hopfully by summer.. You in for a paint job??

I'm in...
The wifey gave me one yesterday out of the blue. I guess I'm doing soemthing right.
I plan on repainting mine for sure. Not sure how many mods I plan to make, hopefully I can just make the wheelwells larger.
I want this baby to have a gas engine and I have the MVVS 1.6 ...according to the specs it should be just right, but I'm hoping to get some real feedback from those who have built & flown her before.

-Love the "tulip" design on the nose (last paint schede was the Reiches defense...So I may do one similar to the likes of these.

[8D]Sweet!! you need to tell my wife to talk to yours and take lessons!!LOL.. I want the hartman sceme with the tulips or a winter sceme..

That motor will be more then enough. Thats more horsepower then a saito 220(3.6hp)....which is larger then the 1.80 size the box recommends.

Mine flies well with an old OS 108 2 stroke. 3.0 hp at some rpm I know I don't reach. I figure I'm flying with around 2.7-8 hp with a 15x8 2 blade prop.

Steve

The pushrods for the elevators and rudder have been discussed thoroughly in this thread earlier. I also feel that the stock pushrods with the split at the end for the elevators are a bit sloppy.

Here is how I did it. One flexible rod for each elevator. I used the splitter intended for the stock elevator pushrod to make the joiner that is now placed right behind the servo. I was a bit reluctant to make the kink at the end of the rods. It seems to be no problem however, I did press the elevators by hand as hard as I dared against the servo, and the linkages had a very firm feel. The tubes have two extra fixing points on their way rearwards.

The pushrod for the rudder is 6mm carbon. I am going to make a reinforcement to compensate for the ply that was removed behind the servo.

If you see some extra formers inside the fuselage, that is another story. There was a big factory made dent at the rear right side of the fuselage moulding, so I had to open it up to put the formers in. This added 40 grams to the rear of the plane. No problem I hope, as long as there is a OS 1.60 FX in the nose.

Helge.

Hello,

I am new to this thread and became interested in this plane as a result of all of the things being said here about the kit. I just received mine on Friday from Hobby King and I am going to begin getting all of the stuff together to start the build. I plan on putting an OS 1.60 FX for power, the Sierra retracts, and the Platt Spinner when the funds permit. This will be a project for later in the summer after I finish a Nitroplanes Tucano I am building.

I have scanned through the thread, but could not find any one writing about doing a wire pull-pull on the rudder. Has anyone tried (and flown) this plane with this setup?

I have read that there is a bit of concern with the pushrod arrangement on the elevators, can anyone provide some feedback on a solid setup for them as well? Does anyone have any suggestions for and alternate arrangement for the tail setup?

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone might have regarding theor experience with this plane.

Regards,

Cesar

I bent a rod into a U shape and connected the elevator halves together. In combination with the Y rod set up it is tight and should be fine. I also glued carbon fiber rods inside the stock pushrod shafts to stiffen them up and made a guide for the elevator about half way back in the fuse. Make sure you do not count on glue alone to hold the plastic ends in the pushrod tubes. Either make a hole and bend the rod to lock it in, or drill a hole and put a bolt through it along with the glue. CA seems to work as good as anything to hold them in place.

With my OS 1.60FX and a 17X10 prop I estimate this plane will do about 120 mph. Any flutter in the surfaces could be fatal.

I'm still waiting for some good weather to get my maiden in.

CESAR,
How much was the shipping from hobby king?? Was the service ok?? Just curious since they are 200.00 on their website and ship from usa..Look forward to seeing yours. Chad..

Chad,

I must admit I was a bit worried about ordering from Hobby King thinking the kit was coming from China, but then I found out that this particular kit ships from their California warehouse which put me a bit more at ease. The shipping charge was just $30.00 which is not bad from California to New York; it is the average shipping charge via UPS. I ordered it on Tuesday and had it in my hand by Friday.

I must admit it is a beautiful kit. It arrived in perfect shape, no damage whatsoever. I look forward to starting the kit in a month or so after I finish a couple of projects I have in the works. I'll start getting all of the stuff together such as the engine (OS 1.60 FX), spinner (Dave Platt), and retracts (Sierra) in the meantime.

Regards,

Cesar

Hot Rod Todd,

Could you please provide me with a little more detail as to how you modifed the elevator?

What size wire did you use?

How did you cut the fuse to accomodate the wire, and were there any mods needed to beef up the cut out (if any)?

Exactly where in the elevator did you install the wires, and what did you use to attach them (CA, Gorilla Glue, Titebond, etc...)?

Also, were there any other mods, or changes that you did that I should consider when building my model?

Regards,

Cesar

CESAR,
Thanks that makes me feel a bit more confident in ordering it from them.. Sounds like the others may have to compete as well..Thanks, chad.

Cesar, I bent the U shapped rod from some old gear I had laying around, about 1/8" or so. Glue it in with epoxy when you hinge the elevator halves. My other changes are documented in previous posts, so I won't go into them all again. I'm sure you will be interested in my flight report since I am using the same engine, gear, and spinner as you. I'm hoping for some good weather soon, so keep watching for a flight report.

Todd,

Thanks for the reply, I'll look up your other posts on this thread to see the other modifications you've done to your plane.

I'll keep an eye out for your report on the maiden flight.

Good luck!

I bought some alumninum (hollow) rods that insert into the push rods of the CMP Bf109F. Will these alumninum rods give my radio any problems? I'm using a spread spectrum RX.

Thanks,

Bert

Hello,

I've seen some 109's of you guys with the canopy already in place. Did you glue the canopy? I did with 6 min epoxy, but the vibrations of the engine made it come off again. Maybe silicone kit would solve the problem. Any idea's?

regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Eric,

I just rebuilt mine using 1.0oz fiberglass... Had enough of the cheapo Chinese plastic cracking. I used one of the half decent canopies I have (I actually got shipped FOUR, and only the fourth was undamaged) to make the mold.

I always use Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo (silicone) for the canopy and all detail parts that I don't want to vibrate off. Works great.

this is what i use


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCX70&P=SM


Joe

Canopy glue holds OK but it takes a LONG time to dry.

yup, more time to work with it and it wipes off the model with water till it dries. but don't get it on the clear plastiv because it does etch it.

Joe

Can you guys tell me what you think about installing a pull-pull cable system on the rudder using a large quarter scale, high torque servo? I think it would make a good, slop free setup, but I am not sure.

This is the first time I am dealing with a plane that uses an engine larger than an OS 1.20 and I know the forces on the flight surfaces increase exponentially as the speed (and horsepower) are increased.

I tried scanning through the thread, but could not find anyone who installed a pull-pull setup.