The KMP retracts are leaky and the struts very soft. Be careful. I tested mine for about 8 hours, and ended up having to replace every piece of hose line, valve, connector and gasket in the gear. The included parts are horribly cheap and mostly useless.


For the price, you are best getting something from Sierra or Shindin.

I had the 1st KMP Typhoon, and my retracts had a-lot of slop in them, plus they were really heavy, but otherwise, they looked great and I never really had issues besides the wobble.

I've already tossed the cheapo hose. and most of the hardwear will go also. I was hoping to get some use out of the$$$ i spent sounds like it will end up in the DNU box with the other part of KMP retracts (rev 1 or 2) and the plastiv robarts I got on a prebuilt once.

that leads into the next question my 14# KMP hurri works fine on Rhom-airs with OLEO's what are you guys getting for wt? I'm trying to use the cheap stuff i pick up at swop shops first before shelling out real $$$$.

Joe

With an OS 1.60 and Sierra Retracts mine weighs a bit over 15 lbs.

Yup...but put fuel in it and it'll weigh about 17 pounds on take off. Same basic weight as my electric version. Except, your weight will drop as you fly.

Much as I think I dont need it http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG59 brought this to stick on my ASP 180 sigh..... money slips through the fingers too easy....

Favor please , my BF109 is packed back up until I finish the Fw190 , can some one please tell me the size of the spinner back plate ? I have some of the guys at work that want to take a crack at making one .
Thanks
Lou

Hi Lou

My alum backplate is 5.695" (144.73mm) at the point were it meets the fuse and tapers to fit the spinner without step up or down. As in the factory one, just alum. Its around 4mm thick.

Your really better off unpacking the spinner and giving it to them. I had to test fit my cut a 100 times. But im not a machinist at all.

Steve

RCU times me out on 2 pics.

Steve

Scalecraft, you should sell those back plates... I know I'd pick up one... this piece of plastic they ship is total bunk.

Scalecraft, I'd take one off your hands too !

Steve,
I'm a slow typer also, I found that if I type 3 or 4 sentences then "CNTL C" them, then and resume typing. Do this several times and "CNTL C" after each new group of sentences. When you are through and have saved the text, cancel the message with the box on the bottom. Return to the reply to message to start a new message "CNTL V" to instal the message and then install the pics that you want to display and then presto your text and pics will be all on one message.
Bob Q.

Thanks Steve , I guess your correct I am better off taking my spinner into them and let them knock it off .

Ok BobQ I'll try that.

LDM, it will make for a better fit and less time invested.

Steve

for those who are making their own spinners and are using a 4 stroke, how are you providing grips to the blade? smooth alloy wont help and will let the prop slip

I used to use R6000 to bond a 60 grit peace of sandpaper on both sides then tighten the whole assembly down to dry. Lately I’ve been using a dermal cutting wheel to make slots in both surfaces that radiate out from the center.

Joe

Nice job scalecraft on the backplate. Might be somebody can turn out copies of that oneday.

Well here is my solution to the crap setup for my plane, my order from Tower turned up today so I spent the day modifying it, I am very happy with the result and both sides stay even.. the box you see is a "dremel" style tool which was a really good buy thought others might like to look into one!, the ball link item at the start means you can pop off either side for adjustment but its very secure, the rods I used were the sulivan rods but the carbon fibre ones which they say dont move that much

can you elaborate on the internal duehickey that takes the two rods to one , cant quite make that out in the pics ?? Is that a after market purchase or a "snappa industrys special"

NOt to beat a dead horse [&:], I notice you are useing an easy link on the end connection at the rudder , once you get that set to your liking I would 100% use J-b weld and make that permanant and make all your adjustments from the inside and or radio

LDM,
I believe they are 'Elevator Splitter 2-56 Ball type '
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...-56_Ball_type_
And I believe his 'easy connect' only attaches to the tail wheel (correct me if i'm wrong SNAPPA). Nice setup, I think I'll be doing the same.

Thanks Dr , appreciate the info and clarity

yes Tower also supplys them, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV37 its actually worked out well, just make sure you keep the rods "mirrored" in their travel, you want the same length and geometery each side I will pop off the balls in about half an hour and upload another pic so you can see how they really fit

actually no I have if you look at the photo a easy link on the throttle servo and the retract gear, I just ordered some dies and taps from tower which arrived with the ball link thing... I intend to remove them, cut the rods to the correct length and tap a thread on them then screw on a clevis and make it safe, the easy link idea has never sat well with me, JB weld or not, I also have to get my fancy new grinder and tidy up the epoxy

here is the ball removed, as you can see its quite secure, also you can see my throttle servo with the sullivan rod, I may remove this too and replace it with a steel one, not sure about that just the consequences of the yellow rod breaking well........... you can also see through the rear that I have used short lengths of the existing rod to force the rods into the geometery I want when it exits the rear, I also have two balsa firewalls going through the rear to support the rods, I am still not sure if I should have used the next size up rods but when you think about it the elevator rods are only moving one surface each

thanks , got it now !!! nice set up