Sorry, here are the pictures.

Schummie.

Your hardware looks good, however I would remount the engine on an aluminum platform to spread the load of the engine over a larger area. The ply is a bit soft. ( I mentioned that before and someone said they sealed the ply with epoxy. Still soft, just feul proof for the few extra minutes.)

Back in these posts are a bunch of good picks of various engine mounts that would address this concern.

Steve

Steve,

I have impregnated the ply with thin CA. I also installed 4 washers under the provided mount to spread the load a little more. We'll see if this is enough. This way I could use the provided soft mount. I'll check every few flights. That is offcourse if mine survives the maiden.

Eric Schumacher

Schimmie

Fly when your calm and have checked all the surfaces and CG. If you have this warbird, I'm not going to bore you with the other basics of warbird takeoffs and landings. You should already be seasoned in these characteristics.

Its really forgiving when you get calm and practice a bit. I got cocky on my second flight and just throttled up fast thinking I was familiar with the model from a few flights (see youtube "CMP 109")..

My OS 108 is powerful enough with a 15X8 to pull this model hard to the left at around 75% power. Imagine the torque of the OS 160 with a larger prop. I over estimated my learning curve. Just be ready with the rudder, it will handle it.

You'll be ok. Good luck



Steve

Hello Steve,

The engine I use is the OS 120 AX. I'll use a 16x8 prop. Glad to hear that the 108 already has good power. I sometimes hear that a 180 Saito or at least 160 OS is to be used. So I'm confident now that the 120 AX will be good enough for me. I'm training now with larger tail draggers to get used to the take off characteristics. Thanks for the advice, and I'll give feedback as soon as my 109 got it's maiden.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher

Guys, Scalecraft is 110% right about the fuse being made up of polyester resin. I tried bonding a thin ply plate to the inside wall of the fuse and once the epoxy had cured, it lifted "clean" off. I will be going to the auto parts store today to buy either the "EverCoat" of some type of polyester fibreglass resin. DON'T USE EPOXY to bond anything to this plane.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

Ok....well....I guess I must have some strange version of the CMP Me-109 plane because I have had no issues using standard 5 min epoxy you buy from hobbytown on this fuselage.

Same for me. I used epocy to strengthen the fuselage-wing connection. Also on the ply where I placed the receiver and the battery. I checked after the messages here, but everything is very solid. Further, thay may ly, but the CMP-site states that the 109 fuselage is made of fiberglass.

Eric

Schumacher, I would replumb your fuel filter to the other side of your filler. The way you have it at the moment any gunk from your fuel supply while filling will get trapped on the feed side of the filter and when you start the engine it will get sucked into the carbie.
The rest looks real nice Mate.

Cheers,

Brad

Yup

Brad,

You're absolutely right. This way, the filter has no use at all. Thanks.

Eric Schumacher

just wonering , before we get into 6587 post lol if anyone could list 1 thru 20 , the best dos and donts they think you need to perform on this plane to make it an enjoyable model for all of us who take the small yellow bus to RC school [X(].
From servos , engine choice , wing set up , push rod set up , you know like "cliff notes"

Of course the fuse is fiberglass; however, the site does not state the type of binding material - polyester resin or epoxy resin. It’s the binding material, not the fiberglass that determines what resins and glues will adhere to the original surface.

Peter

We walked through miles of snow to get to RC school, no bus for us................................................ ..... sorry.

Heres what has flown well for me so far.

For GLOW engine models that have to deal with vibration and fuel. And keeping costs down. Not taking into consideration scale deviations.

1) OS 108 with 15x8 prop. Why 108. Did not want to have a large left torque problem and ground strikes with a larger prop. Flys well with a 108. And I had one lying around.
servos are a mix of MGG995 for the elevator and ailerons, throttle and other servos are JR547, and the Spektrum servos from the DX7 radio. All digital. 6Volt flight pack,2200ma.
Retracts are spring airs on the wing that is used in the video i put on youtube. You have seen my other wing, that configuration will prevent all my problems on the ground.
Again, hardware I had lying around. Use thread lock on engine bolts.


2)CMP engine mounts are not advised. Use some aluminum plates to mount your engine to the ply. Pics here somewhere. spread the load. Seal engine area.

3)Spinner backplate is a fragmentation grenade, or a time bomb with no timer. Get an aluminum backplate. Or a Platt spinner, or a Flightskin spinner.

4)Mount throttle servo behind the firewall. It doesn't need the heat or fuel exposure.

5)Open the back of the chin scoop for air flow. See pics

6)All servo mounts in fuse, put doublers for the servo screws to get a better bite. CMP ply is not hard 5 ply. snappa may have had a servo pull out of this ply.

7)The elevator connection should be made more precise and secure. I used a very secure configuration in my linkage. Maybe over kill, but will not fail. Pics somewhere on this post.

8) CMP Hinge points are good quality. I used them. Make sure you glue them in right.

9)Shim the retract for as much forward rake as reasonable. It will help in the nose over problem from the incorrect position of the CMP factory position, which is too far back. Hint, retracted position of the scale gear are swept back not forward as in the CMP gear mounts.

10) I don't use epoxy to glue to polyester. Ca has worked, but poly to poly is best. sand and wipe poly surface.

11)Use caution grabbing the wing, CMP uses very light balsa for sheeting, and the wing is not fully sheeted like their Zero.

12) Use fuel tubing for clevis holds, the black "O" rings CMP gives crack.

13) The "airbrakes" (wing radiator top flaps) are for show, use them when you think the model is safely on the ground. Mine are taped in place at this point to allow the inboard flap to operate with out deploying the upper ones.

14) Set CG inverted and with your retracts retracted and empty, with a slight nose down attitude. The CMP factory CG distance strangely worked.

Thats all I can think of right now. Now get off the bus and start building it.

This list has brought mine back safely so far.

Good luck

Steve

Great post , exactly what I was looking for , now I can copy , paiste , file and when this post reaches 6039 hits I dont have to read it all

A can of worms.


Steve

I posted that before:

Glow engine
Saito 125
$390 with muffler
Glow plug $6
1 gal. glow fuel $18.00

Use per flight (15 min)- 14 ounces average.

Cost per 100 flights- $196.90


Gas engine
Evolution 26GT2
$500 with muffler
Spark plug $3
1 gal. gas $3.50 with oil

Use per flight (15 min)- 8 ounces average.
Cost per 100 flights- $21.90





Conclusion:

With 100 flights the savings are $175.

With a gas engine you don’t have to adjust the needles because of temperature change. No oil on the airframe. Less fuel use – cleaner burn). Less noise. Less maintenance.
=more fun.



Happy landings
G-Pete

Hello,

Here's the setup of my 109. Very bad weather in Europe, so the maiden will have to wait a few weeks. My engine is brand new, so i'll run it in on my lawn in the plane. That way I can see if the CPM engine mount and the spinner will hold out.

Engine: OS 120 AX
Prop: Master Airscrew Classic 16x8
Aileron Servos: 2 x Futaba S3152 Digital Hi-Torque
Flap Servos: 2 x Futaba S3010 Hi Torque
Air-break Servo’s 2 x Futaba S3004
Throttle servo: 1 x Futaba S3001
Rudder Servo: 1 x Hitec HS645MG
Retract valve: Air-Power EV-2U Dual action retract valve (no servo needed)
Retracts: Sierra CMP Me-190 retracts
Wheels: Supplied wheels, supplied wheel bays used.
Receiver: Futaba R-149-DP
Power Management System: Engel. Seperate 6v power supply to both servo’s and receiver.
Battery: 2 x Zippy Lipo 2200 Ah each.
Coverter 7.2v to 6v: Engel Dual Power Converter.
Weight: 6070 gram (13.4 pounds Flight ready without fuel)

Used the supplied spinner with better screws. Have a Fliteskin aluminium one if the plane survives the maiden and test runs.
Used Hobbycity tail wheel which is much stronger and more scale.
Replaced push rods for carbon ones.
Used supplied hinges.
Placed throttle servo near the other servo’s to protect from heat and oil.
Used recommended throws with 30% exponentional on the rudder, elevator and rudder.
CG set at 112 mm with Great Planes CG machine.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Hello guys,

Had to make some adjustments, for my CG was way off to the back of the plane.
Both my lipo’s had to be placed as far forward as possible. I glued in a battery bay, as can be seen in the picture. To make room, the electronic retract valve had to be replaced to the center.Also the convertor and the receiver with power box is placed as far forward as possible. I chose the left side for the lipo’s to keep it also left/right balanced.
The CG now is 116 mm, exact in between 112 and 120. This is the range suggested by CMP.
Please, especially the guys hwo have already maidened their plane. What CG did you use, and did you keep it there after your flights. To get the CG more forward, I would have to place lead in the nose.
I rather want to prevent that, as the plane already is 13,4 pound.
Thanks in adcanced for sharing your CG settings with me.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

My CG is 108mm and i havent felt the need to move it.

Mine is forgiving at 112mm. I have a thick, somewhat heavy aluminum backplate that gives the perfect slight nose down CG when at 112mm, dry. Around 13lbs. 13.5 not a problem.

Steve

I want to hard mount the engine in my 109.

The ply plate is a bit flexible for the big OS 1.60 I think, so I have stiffened the whole arrangement two ways. The aluminium rails are 2mm thick.

There is a weight penalty, not that much considering the total weight of the plane, hopefully not a problem.

Helge.

Hi,

I am wondering about this method of strengthening the ply engine mount.

If you simply attach the steel plate on top ( below?) the ply doesn't it alter the engine thrust line by the thickness of the plate ?

This would put the spinner out of line .

I know it is only by a small amount but is there a simple way around this problem?

Cheers,
MM

The flexible motor mount supplied in the kit would hold the lugs on my engine approx 2.5mm clear of the ply plate.

The aluminium rails are only 2mm thick. However when I dry fitted the arrangement the spinner was a nice fit to the front of thefuselage.

The way I see it the main strengthening lies in the member glued across the engine room, making a stiffer connection between the engine support and the fuse.

I am not mechanically skilled, and perhaps hard mounting is not that wise. But I believe that even a flexible mount needs to have a solid support to be able to work properly.

Helge.

Thanks for the CG info Steve and Kahloq.

I put 90 grams of stick-lead as far forward in the plane as possible. After balancing the CG now is 114 mm according to the Great Planes Balancing Machine. Since I have the landing gear in the original position I try not to get the CG too much forward.
Landing gear up, or down doesn’t make much difference. See the pictures. I’ll get back to you after the maiden.

Eric Schumacher