Giday all..
i have just recently purchased and mounted a laser 3000 kv brushless moter that came in a kit with a novotech 75 amp esc with thermo / and 2> 3 plate dualsky power 2200mAh 11.1V batteries,
The original 1520 kv moter had a water cooled collar inbetween the mount and the engine that i have also put back on the boat along with binding the moter with the rubber pipe from the collar to try to disperse some of the heat as the boat is not even in the water for 3>5 mins and it does its safty heat moter shut down thing ,so i bring it in to the bank and the moter is untouchable!!!
I have tryed many things now >even drilling out the water pick up on the rudder to get more flow but still to no avail!!! some suggestions would be nice before i smash it!!!!!! lol lets not get to that stage!! ( to many hours)

I hate to be the bearer of sad news, but that motor is way too high kv for direct drive[], you probably should have gone with an XL in a 1600-1900 kv........................It will always run extremely hot no matter how you cool it.

as we were after speed the 3000 kv was the way to go i thought, is there any way to keep it cool at all !!! as the speed of the boat out of the pocket is unbelievable and the overall performance of the boat is great and wouldnt want to have to back in speed >> ??

The speed was great when the motor was cool for about 1 minute most likely.............it wont work...................Cant believe you havent popped your speedo..........

You CAN fix it for $69.......................

Try a 9XL or 10XL........................it will work, maybe even an 8XL..........

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-540XL&cat=116

That moter you just sent me >> will that have much of a drop in power/speed>? as it looks all good and also is this in us dollars or aus>?

US dollars..........
You may also be able to use an "L" model motor.................i was thinking your boat was a bit bigger......couldnt remember off the top of my head.............its the 26" right?

This should work as well....................you can always prop up just a bit with these lower kv motors to gain a little more speed.

14L or 13L

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...i-540L&cat=116

Thanks for ya help mate!! and think i might just hit it on the head for now and try to get myself a super v 27 nitros for something a little different as the time i have put into this boat over the whole of xmas has pooped me!!! so thanks again mate!!! and i will look into these types of moters !![]650 mm length 260 mm beam

Dont just give up on that nice boat!! The motors in the range I showed you will work..............The "L" motor probably the best fit in the 13L................ too nice to let it sit.........it would be very fast............ Your almost there!!!

a great way to get speed out of a boat is lower KV and Higher volts..
creates less heat also longer run times.. boats pull mega amps if not setup right
what size of prop are you using, and are you running 3s on this motor?

for a 3000 KV motor, you can try running a 2S lipo (7.4V) Your run time will definitely be short, bring it in within a minute to check the temp of the motor. If it is okay, you can run it for another minute. SRT10 said it best, lower motor KV, higher batt volts is the way to do it right.

sr10.. ive got 2>> 3 plate lithium polymer 11.1V batteries, is that not enough volts! as ive seen other turn there boats into 22.2V boats with great performance, but at the hobbie shop down the road he has a 22.2 V batterie there in a single pack >would that be better (drawing it from 1 single destination! with the lower kv as i dont want to go slower i want it all!! lol

oh and its a 3 blade (20 cent piece size) ( little larger than stock!!)

If your running on 6s (22.2) that motor and esc will not survive!
high kv and high volts = smoke!
your system would be pulling way to many amps..
if you want to run 6s you need a motor with a kv of 1200 or so with a 42-45mm prop

origanaly there was a 1520 kv engine in the boat then we got the larger kv moter .... So what ya saying is to keep the novotech brushless esc(75amp) and mabye put the old moter back in there with the 2 11.1 batteries and your saying that it will be still as fast but with less heat and longer play time!!!

So..................as i had already suggested.....in post #2,#4,#6 and #8.............lower kv..................like the L - 1755................and 4s

thanks for all ya help fellaz but went down the dam today and the esc cooked !!! hahahahaany way back to the drsawing sboard!!!

You dont say....................

So now that you have my attention mate!!, i want you to tell me what sort of esc to get and what moter ( if the old 1 )(1520kv) is no good to get as i want what i had in the speed department with out the cooking of items!lol sorry but as they say learn from your mistakes!! >> oh and how can i tell if the esc is done or the moter is blown>>?? is there a procedure to check these items !! ty

Ludakris,

Write this down somewhere and post it on your wall.

SPORT SETUP
[Kv] Motor X [Volt] Battery = RPM/KV

For Sport Setup The RPM/KV is around 20K - 25K
For Oval Setup The RPM/KV is around 25K - 30K
Anything over the 30K is strictly for SAW RACING.

So back to what was mentioned by SRT10, I am going to use lipos as an example. Each cell is about 3.7V, now that multiply by 2S, 3S, 4S etc... gives your the total volts for the pack.
For choosing a Motor/Battery, I will use the motor Kv that you had mentioned of 3000KV, So for a sport setup If you took 3.7V x 3S = 11.1V, now multiply 11.1 x 3000[motor Kv] = 33,3000 RPM/KV. You're way into the SAW Racing setup.
IF you went with a lower KV motor say 1520KV x 4S[14.8V] = 22,496 RPM/KV. Which is about where you would want to be. A lower KV motor has more torque, which will allow you to run a bigger prop. Start with a 40-45mm prop. Start small and work up in diameter. Always check after a minute to see how much heat you are drawing on your motor and esc.

I take that you are a SPORT Boater. And not a Racer! This is merely a guideline, as no one setups a boat the same as the next guy. The saying goes " there are a hundred ways to skin a cat ". This is a great example of that. First you need to know some basics of FE boating. And as far as a ESC goes always get a marine esc, with water cooling. A fan might not do too much, specially if you're circulating hot air inside a sealed hull. You want to draw away the heat, not circulate the heat. And never run the boat half throttle, always WOT (wide open throttle), You will build up heat on the esc. I always like to give myself an extra margin when it comes to the Amp on the Esc. I would get a 70-90 Amp esc. Pref a 90A. That way you need not upgrade the esc down the road.

looking at and reading your post again, you are running an out-runner motor in there. They are hard to water cool, as the cans rotate. The in-runners are easily cooled with a water jacket, the cans do not move, just the shaft. That is why you have a water cooler on the motor mount itself. Wrapping the excess tubing on your motor can will not solve your heating issues. Lets hope that your 1520Kv motor is an in-runner motor. Get a proper water jacket.

Oh man I wonder why? j/j
If you wan to run 6s like it sounds you are, you will want a 1100kv to 1300kv rating
But you have small packs and this will cause an amp problem down the road and short run times
You could run the packs in paralell and use a 2300kv motor for a decent setup

My opinion for a setup...............................only my opinion.................

Feigao 14L 1755kv $59 : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...i-540L&cat=116

Turnigy 120a ESC $69 : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Boat_ESC

Turnigy 2s lipos x 2 for 4s $19 each : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._20C_Lipo_Pack

Octura x442 $13 : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=86

The turnigy ESC is a freakin workhorse..............i run it in a couple boats..............you cant beat it for the price, kinda like their lipos.

There's my piece.....................

And the red print makes my head hurt..............................[:'(]

Rebuilder,

I think you better change the Octura prop link to a Sharpened/Balanced one, the one that you have linked is raw. Ludakris might have issues installing the raw prop.
I have been eyeing that 120A esc from Turnigy as well.

Yep..................... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x442

and on the ESC.............i have never had a setup issue.............they always work when you plug them in, and great setting features. How can you beat it for $69??

good setup for 4s..