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Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

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Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Old 04-06-2006, 04:29 PM
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Default Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Guys good afternoon. Alright I am starting to get frustrated here. My Trex SE is put together here are the specs:

Medusa Afterburner MR-028-040-3400 3400KV Brushless Motor
Castle Creations Phoenix 35 Brushless Speed Controller 35AMP
Futaba GY401 Gyr
3 x Hitec HS56HB Karbonite Gear Servos on CCPM
1 x Hitec HS55 servo on Tail
Spektrum DX6 2.4Ghz Spread Spectrum 6 Channel Transmitter

The CCP35 is programmed...I am wondering where I go next? I know soon I need to program the DX6, and people have told me there is a way to lessen the servo movement in mid stick, but I am clueless. I need to make sure this thing is setup properly, but just do not know where to go next. Please help thank you.

P.S if there is anyone close to my location i would be willing to pay for some tuning and setup tricks Thanks
Old 04-06-2006, 06:06 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Ok on the DX6 you have two options for the amount of servo movement or the amount of input you can do. You want what's call EXP and you can find it in the EXP menu it first comes up with EL0 if you are using the 401 and want to use EXP you need to change this setting to about 50% If you hit down on the first orange clicker thing it brings you to AI0 you need to set it up to 50% also. Now if you change the Elevator/Aileron D/R switchs from 0 to 1 you can also setup those postions too. Now the reason I said you need to set up the Elevator D/R / Aileron D/R 0 settings is because to use your 401 in AVCS it must be set in the 0 postion. I suggest that you set up 50% on both EL0/EL1 and AI0/AI1 this way you will hav EXP in both AVCS and Non AVCS while you are trimming your heli out. The D/R settings will limit how much your servos can rotate it's best to leave those alone. Also I'm not sure if you understand how to set up your 401 for your DX6 so here are the steps.

With the TX off hold both orange tabs up and turn the TX on
Tab up the first orange tab 4 times you will see GER now tab the second orange tab up until you see it say A. This stands for the Aileron D/R switch.

Ok now shut it off and then go back into the normal program mode.
Now understand that your Aileron D/R switch is what controls the Gyro...If it is on 0 then you are in AVCS mode and 1 is for non AVCS mode

Now to program the Gain for each mode go into the program mode and go to TRV ADJ click until you see it say GER
Now in the Aileron D/R switch is in postion 0 you are programming the Gain for AVCS if and you will see all your settings are + ?? %
Now is the Aileron D/R switch is in postion 1 you are programming the Gain for Non AVCS and you will see they are - ??%

This is why for EXP you need to program the EXP for both switch postions at 50% because you will be tuning the helicopter in Non AVCS mode to start with.

Also always remember before you plug your battery into your ESC to have the Aileron D/R set to 0 and then go to 1...Or you will get a Gyro error.

Also here is a biggy once you tune your helicopter up if for some reason you are using digital trim for your rudder make sure you re bind your helicopter (the shorting plug) If you don't and you have digital trim for your rudder it takes a bit for the RX to recieve this trim setting and sometimes the Gyro will align because you it took to long for it to talk....If for some reason you forget to bind your system here is what I do.

Let the gyro align then switch to Non AVCS...After the servo goes to trim switch the Aileron D/R back and forth from 1 to 0 a few times and stop on 0 and the AVCS will be correct.


Good luck.
Old 04-06-2006, 07:28 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

I used this to set mine up and it flew rock solid first time.







Align Trex SE Setup Guide. version 1.0
Although I have successfully flown nitro and electric helis in the past I only recently discovered that my setups were never actually correct. The difference in performance of a correctly configured heli and what I thought was correct is really amazing. This is not a complete build but information on how to correctly setup your servos, linkage, pitch and throttle curve so you have a smooth operating heli.
The following steps are based on a Trex SE that has been correctly assembled and all components installed. The radio used is the Spektrum DX6. These steps are specific to the Spektrum DX6 so please see your manufacturers instructions for placing your radio into the correct helicopter mode, in this case CCPM, and other options such as servo reversing, gyro gain, etc. Radio settings, rates, degrees and any measurements shown in this guide are from my working SE. Do not assume that by using the same values you will get the same results. Please verify all your settings and general operation of your heli. I will always try to keep this information updated and error free however it is your responsibility to make sure your heli is operating correctly.
#1 Radio Setup (Spektrum DX6)

The battery to your helicopter does not need to be connected at this time.
• First we will set the radio into Heli Mode.
o While pressing up on the scroll and increase buttons, turn the power switch on. You are now in System Mode.
o Press scroll until TYP is displayed.
o Press increase and select HE.
o Press scroll until GER is displayed.
o Press increase and select A
o To save either turn the radio off or press scroll and increase at the same time.
• Now we will set options in Function Mode.
o Turn the radio on if it is not already on.
o Press scroll and increase. You are now in function mode.
o The servo reversing menu (REV.NORM) should be visible. If not press scroll until it is.
o Once you reach the reversing menu, use the channel key to scroll through each channel and set them to the following.
 AIL=REV
 ELE=NORM
 RUD=NORM
 GER=NORM
 PIT=NORM
 THR=NORM
o Press scroll until TRV ADJ. is visible.
o Press scroll and select the GER channel.
o Place the Aileron DR switch to 0. Use the decrease button to set +45%.
o Press scroll until HLD is visible.
o Use decrease and set to -1%.
o Press scroll until you reach the Pitch Curve Menu. Use the channel button to select PLN, P2N and PHN and set the following values using increase and decrease.
 PLN=35%
 P2N=50%
 PHN=100%
o Press scroll to advance to the next Pitch Curve Menu. Use the channel button select PLS, P2S and PHS and set the following values using increase and decrease.
 PLS=0%
 P2S=50%
 PHS=100%
o Press scroll to advance to the next Pitch Curve Menu. Use the channel button select PLH, P2H and PHH and set the following values using increase and decrease.
 PLH=0%
 P2H=50%
 PHH=100%
o Press scroll to advance to the Throttle Curve Menu. Use the channel button select TLN, T2N and THN and set the following values using increase and decrease.
 TLN=0%
 T2N=65%
 THN=100%
o Press scroll to advance to the Throttel Curve Menu. Use the channel button select TLS, T2S and THS and set the following values using increase and decrease.
 TLS=100%
 T2S=80%
 THS=100%
o Press scroll until your reach the CCPM Menu. "mix CCP OF" is displayed.
o Press increase to enable CCPM. Display will change from CCP OF to CP2.
o Use the channel button to select CP2, CP3 and CP6. All three should have a value of 60% by default. Use increase and decrease to set the following values.
 CP2 = 30% (Approximately 6 degrees of total cyclic travel [ -, + 3 degrees left and right] )
 CP3 = 30% (Approximately 6 degrees of total cyclic travel [ -, + 3 degrees forward and aft] )
 CP6 = 60%
 CP2 and CP3 adjusts the cyclic travel of your swashplate (forward, back, left, right)
 CP6 adjust the total up and down travel of the swashplate (pitch of rotor blades)
 CP2 and CP3 can be increased if you are experienced or after you become comfortable with your heli. The transmitters default setting of 60% will give you about 12 degrees total cyclic travel, [ -, + 6 degrees]. At this high setting the mechanics are very near binding. In addition using that much cyclic may cause bogging. Shoot for 6 degrees total and then advance to around 9 degrees total.
The radio settings should now be very close to final with the exception of possible servo reversing, subtrims and gyro gain adjustments.
#2 Servo mounting, connections, direction and centering
Servo mounting may vary slightly but I found the following offers good alignment. Servo connections shown are for the DX6.
Figure A
Note Ch. 6 servo is mounted from the inside and Ch. 3 is mounted from the outside of the left frame with the servo horn inside the frame halves.

Figure B
Ch. 2 is mounted from the inside of the right frame.

Figure C

• Servo Centering and Direction can now be checked.
o Remove all servo arms from the servos.
o Set Aileron D/R Switch to 1.
o Turn on the transmitter.
o Make sure all of your trims are at 0.
o Set your collective (left stick) to center. It should be in the same position as the right stick.
o Disconnect your motor from the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) and plug a fully charged battery pack into the ESC. Leave the helicopter stationary until the Gyro initiates.
o Begin putting the servo arms on each of the servos, lining the arm up as close to center as possible. See Figure A, B and C above for arm orientation. It is not necessary to hook up the linkage at this time. Do not worry if they do not line up exactly. We will make adjustments later by using subtrim. If you find a control horn is very far off from center try a different control horn.
o Now we can check servo direction.
 Move your right stick (cyclic) to the right. Channel 2 servo arm should move down and Channel 6 servo arm should move up.
 If this is not the case you will need to reverse one or both of the servos depending on what reaction occurred.
 Move the right stick (cyclic) forward. The Channel 3 servo arm should move up while the Channel 6 and 2 servo arms move down. The opposite applies when the right stick is pulled back.
 If this is not the case you will need reverse the Channel 3 servo.
 Move the left stick (rudder) to the left. The Ch. 4 servo arm should move towards the tail of the heli.
 If this is not the case then you will need to reverse this servo.
 Move the left stick (throttle) up and down. Ch 2, 3 and 6 should move together in direction relation to the stick movement.
o If any servo reversing was necessary, you may have to check for servo arm alignment again to make sure they are as close to center as possible.
o We will now adjust the subtrim to center any servo arms that need centering.
 Turn the transmitter on if it is not already on.
 Make sure both sticks are in the center position.
 Push scroll and Increase at the same time to enter Function Mode.
 Press scroll until you reach the SB-TRIM Menu.
 Use the channel key to select each channel that needs adjusting.
 Use the increase and decrease buttons to center the servo arms.
 If subtim value required to center the servo is more than +/- 20 to 30 you should locate a servo arm that will line up closer to center than the current arm being used.
 To save the information press scroll and increase at the same time or turn off the transmitter
o After adjusting the subtrims and with both sticks at center, you can now hook up your linkage rods. Linkage rods set to the length specified in the manual will be very close. Choose the same hole in each servo arm that will result in the arm and control rod being perpendicular as shown on Figure A, B and C above, represented by the red lines.
#3 Linkage adjustment , control alignment and pitch
• Now its time to adjust the linkage on the head assembly. In order to correctly set up your new Trex you will need a pitch guage. This tool is used to measure the pitch angle of the main rotor blades in relation to the flybar. The Align Pitch Guage (figure D) works very well and is specifically for smaller electric helis. If you do not have a pitch guage you should not continue until you do or have some other manner of determining the pitch.
Figure D
o Turn on the transmitter.
o Aileron D/R switch to one and all other switches at 0.
o Motor disconnnected for safety.
o Connect battery to ESC and wait for Gyro to initialize.
o All servo arms should still be centered.
o Extend your main blades and make sure the flybar and the blades are level.
o Examine the image below and compare to your head linkage.
o Starting with the linkage coming from the servos, make sure the bottom of the swashplate is level all the way around.
o Move up to the head linkage and adjust as necessary to get the alignment shown below.
Figure E Figure G
• Setting 0 pitch
o Check that transmitter sticks are at center.
o Set your pitch guage to 0 and place it on one of the main blades.
o Hold the flybar and blades level by lifting on the guage.
o If all is well your flybar and top of guage will be parallel showing your pitch is at 0.
o Do the same for the other blade.
o You should be right on if not, very close. You can make slight adjustments using the short linkage connected to the blade grips.
Figure H
• Now we can set your positive.
o Set your pitch guage to +10
o Place it on one of the main blades.
o Push the collective (left stick) all the way up.
o Level the blades and flybar by lifting on the guage.
o The top of the guage and flybar should be parallel or very close. (figure I below)
o If more pitch is needed to get +10 degrees we will need to access the Function Mode on the transmitter.
 With the transmitter already on, press scroll and increase at the same time.
 Press scroll until MIX CP2 is displayed.
 Press channel until MIX CP6 is displayed.
 Use increase to add more collective. You should see the collective increase as you make the adjustment. Increase until +10 is obtained.
 Check clearance A between the top of the washout base and bottom of the main rotor housing (figure J below). The gap can be tighter than what is shown but they surfaces should not be butted together.
 If you are unable to reach +10 degrees before the surfaces touch, there is a problem with linkage elsewhere. Go back and recheck your linkage.
Figure I Figure J
• Now we check the negative pitch.
o Set your pitch guage to -10
o Place it on one of the main blades.
o Pull the collective (left stick) all the way down.
o Level the blades and flybar by lifting on the guage.
o The top of the guage and flybar should be parallel or very close. (figure K below).
 Check clearance B between the top of the collar and bottom of the swashplate (figure L below).
 If you are unable to reach -10 degrees before the surfaces touch, there is a problem with linkage elsewhere. Go back and recheck your linkage.
Figure K Figure L

#4 Setting up the tail rotor, tail rotor servo and gyro
• Tail servo setup
o Turn the radio on if not already on.
o Set the Aileron D/R Switch to 0.
o The servo should be centered from the previous steps. If it is not you need to go back to the centering section and do this servo again. (You need to be in flight mode 1.)
o With the servo centered, horn on, linkage connected, loosen the servo mount bracket so it can be moved on the boom. Position the servo so the tail rotor blade pitch is 0 with the servo arm centered as shown (figure M).
o Also the bracket needs to be rotated until the control arm runs parallel with the boom. (figure N)
o Tighten the bracket down once these items are aligned.
Figure M Figure N
• Verify Gyro Direction
o Examine the diagram below and follow these instructions
 Hold the heli up at the main rotor button with your right hand. (figure O)
 Use your left hand to push the tail away from you.
 Watch the servo and not the direction it moves when you push the tail. The servo horn should move towards the tail as in the diagram.
 Pulling the tail towards you should result in the servo moving towards the front.
 If you find that the movement is opposite of what is shown here simply switch the rev/norm switch on the gyro.
Figure O
• Setting Tail Rotor Servo Travel
o Use the rudder stick (left stick) and give full left rudder.
o Listen for binding and check clearance. (figure P)
o If you hear binding or see that there is zero clearance, reduce the gyro travel limit on the gyro until you have some clearance.
o Do the same for full right rudder to be sure.
#5 Verify throttle operation
• Your ESC should be plugged into channel 1.
• Although the ESC may have safety measures to guard against accidental motor starts you should always be cautious.
• Verify that all switches are set to 0.
• Hook up your motor leads to the ESC.
• Turn on your transmitter and set the collective/throttle (left stick) at full low.
• Connect a fully charged battery to your ESC.
• Allow the heli to sit still while everything initializes. You will hear a series of beeps and the motor may bump slightly during the beeps.
• After everything has initialized you may slowly increase collective/throttle (left stick) at which time the rotors should start to turn. (clockwise looking from top).
o If you hear the motor turning but the rotor does not, reduce collective to full low.
 The motor may be reversed so swap any two motor leads to reverse operation.
o Increase collective again and the rotor should turn in the clockwise direction.
 If the rotor fails to turn again and you hear the motor there are a couple things that should be checked.
 Hold the main rotor with one hand and attempt to turn the main gear clockwise. It should not turn in this direction however it will turn counter clockwise.
 If the gear turns in both directions it could be a bad one way bearing or your, a missing or sheared main gear bolt or metal main housing bolt.
 If the above checks out then your pinion gear is either loose or not making contact with the main gear.
#6 Final Check
• Before attempting hover or flight there are several areas to check and are not limited to the following.
o Binding
 Disconnect your motor leads for safety
 Give the heli full cyclic by moving the cyclic (right stick to the top right corner).
 Spin the blades with your hand and watch and listen for any binding or rubbing.
 TIP: watch the swashplate and if it moves or appears to bump then something is probably hitting somewhere.
 Continue doing this on the remaining three corners of the cyclic control (full top left, bottom left, bottom right). The corners should be the full extent of motion but to be safe check the entire range by moving the cyclic stick in a complete circle, or in the case of the DX6 a square.
o Clearance
 Move all servos to their fullest extent in both directions.
 Make sure servo arms do not touch, rub or extend into any moving part like the main gear.
o Gear Mesh (the amount of play between the main and pinion gear)
 Finding the right gear mesh is very important. Although the gear appears round, it will likely be slightly oval (egg shaped) having one more high spots. Due to this it will be necessary to have tight mess on the high sides of the gear in order to get correct mesh on the low. If you were lucky enough to get a truly round gear then you can have correct mesh all the way around. Clone that gear and send it to me.
 Unfortunately its really not possible to visually verify mesh while the gears are on the heli so we use our thumb to rock the gear and feel the mesh. Look at the images below to see what you are feeling for.
o
 If you get the mesh at the high side to where there is no gap, then your low side mesh should be correct. If its not then your gear is seriously out of round and probably not suitable to use. A gap as in the last image will result in a stripped gear.
**NOTES**
• Flight Mode Switch
o Switch at 0 = pitch settings of -3, 0, +10 and throttle curve of 0, 60, 100.
o Swithc at 1 = pitch settings of -10, 0, +10 and throttle curve of 100, 80, 100.
• Throttle Hold Switch
o Switch at 0 = Normal operation
o Switch at 1 = No motor operation
• Aileron D/R Switch
o Switch at 0 = Gyro Head Hold Mode ON ( should remain in this mode)
o Switch at 1 = Gyro Head Hold Mode OFF
• Elevator D/R Switch
o Factory default on both 0 and 1
• Dual rate settings should be at factory default unless you made changes outside these instructions. Its always better to double check.
• Radio settings, rates, degrees and any measurements shown in this guide are from my working SE. Do not assume that by using the same values you will get the same results. Please verify all your settings and general operation of you heli.


All images Copyright 2006 Sean Smith
Considerations:
Bob White (finless). Most of this guide is merely steps shown to me by Bob to get SE straight and hopefully will do the same for others.
History
01/25/06 - updated CP section of radio setup to better explain the function of CP2, CP3 and CP6. Added gear mesh information.
Old 04-06-2006, 09:43 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Wow that is awesome! Thank you and all your resources. I still need to get a good pitch gauge, so it looks like I will tackle this tomorrow. I may be back for more questions, but want to thank you all again for your time and help. Todd
Old 04-12-2006, 05:10 AM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

WOW WOW WOW!!!!

That will be so helpful....I am amazed at your knowledge! I have a TREX SE and DX6 arriving tomorrow. I was so worried about setting it up wrong.

YOU ROCK!!!!!!

Thank you
Argos
Old 04-19-2006, 04:46 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

NVSFlyer,

I want to hook my 401gyro into my mode switch. So I have it on "F" for my TREX.

I want heading hold in both modes but different amounts of hold. I think it was suggested to run a little higher gain with minor wag in 3D. But really I just fly mostly in mode 1 and hover around.

Would I then go into gear while in normal mode and set it to about 50%?


I have a showgun also with an EF Gyro. Using the mode setup above if I turned the percent up above zero it caused intense wagging and seems kinda okay at zero. I am not sure if I am missing something here.

JD



Old 04-19-2006, 05:27 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Crazy Hammer.



In the write up you don't seem to mention adjusting the Gear value to +45% while the aileron DR switch is set to 0. What do you set the value to when the switch is set to 1?


I assume if the wag is to little or to much you adjust the 45% up and down till you see where wagging stops.

Thanks
JD
Old 04-19-2006, 07:47 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

ORIGINAL: consultjdm

NVSFlyer,

I want to hook my 401gyro into my mode switch. So I have it on "F" for my TREX.

I want heading hold in both modes but different amounts of hold. I think it was suggested to run a little higher gain with minor wag in 3D. But really I just fly mostly in mode 1 and hover around.

Would I then go into gear while in normal mode and set it to about 50%?


I have a showgun also with an EF Gyro. Using the mode setup above if I turned the percent up above zero it caused intense wagging and seems kinda okay at zero. I am not sure if I am missing something here.

JD



Unlike some of the other TX's that have different setting for Normal or Idle up ours don't change when switching modes. I've looked and tried a bunch of things more looking for different piro rates for different modes but was unable to find a way. As for the EF Gyro I'm not sure if it works with ATV mode like the 401 maybe take a look and see if it does.

As for the settings I have my Aileron D/R switch is in postion 0 and about 40% if I get above this I have a small wag and if I go below this it won't hold. If I plan to do 3D I run about 50% and deal with the wag because the tail will let loose a little on mine if I put hard throttle input this maybe due to running 315 M/R blades and the tail can't put enough into it.

Good luck
Old 04-20-2006, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Sorry Guys but I'm fairly new myself. I didn't write the info, I just pasted it here from another thread. I used these settings and they worked great. The response is a little soft at these settings but if your just startting out then the will be really helpful. You can adjust the response using the ccpm values just make sure you keep constraint's the same 50%,50%,100%---30%,30%,60% ect.... I'm using 50,50,100 now but started at the guide settings.
Old 04-20-2006, 07:57 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

nice picture crazy

I wonder how many of you have your ccpm direct drive and how many are using closed loop. I would think it would affect the sensitivity of the controls.

Crazy since you almost increased the numbers porportionatly instead of like going to 60,60,60. i would think you got a very little faster left right front back . but a lot more pitch throw. Did you check your pitch after the change and before?
JD

Im gonna post a picture of mine
Old 04-20-2006, 08:14 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

here is my XL CCPM TREX with RC-EXpert carbon frame and stabilizers.
When you look at the picture of the frame the Stabilizers are the same metlal shinny look. I set it up direct drive ccpm.

Telebee gyro, some cheap servo's I think, and a align high power brushless motor.

I could look up specifics if important to you.

Useing DX6 and the lipos from RC-Expert.com.

I have two more sets of blades but I put on the set that matches the yellow tail rotor and body.

JD
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:28 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Yeah!! has lots of punch. I'm still playing with the settings. I have decided to lower it a little(worried about servos)before I get into more serious 3d. I'm fairly comfortable with the extreme pitch but it's really not needed and I'm sure it can't be good for the xl parts and mid grade servos.



NICE pics Consult

I painted my carbon fiber 315 blades and balanced them with clearcoat. The Canopy is Fiberglass so the paint is exterior. It is my first paint job on R/C
Old 04-20-2006, 08:43 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Crazy hammer,

Wow, you'll really cry when it crashes, all that work. Im hoping my blades came balanced. At the rpm im planning it should be okay. Gonna go fly my NR3D for a few minutes. Then put my new 401Gy Gyro on my Showgun with its digital servo. I think I will really love that heli if I can get it to hold together. Using my QCPM Elipse 7 setup. 400 DH just go fly motor. Only problem the tail rod/rotor setup comes undone if you dont keep an eye on it. Every 10-15 minutes of flight I have to look at it to make sure the Tail rotor rod is not slipping out of the case.
Old 04-21-2006, 04:34 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

The paint job only took about 45min total work time. The clear coat balance just seemed so much better than tape. I'm on my 40th or so flight and after beating my Blade CP up learning. I've been taking my t-rex steps real slow. I practice on sim for about 30min -1hr everyday and my t-rex handels a lot like the dolphin on G3 so that's the heli I practice with most.

The carbon fiber blades seem to have problems with the center of gravity. One of the blades was slightly longer than the other although they weighed the same. I had to wrap 6 wraps of scotch tape to get the center right and then had to add 6 wraps to the center to get the other blades weight the same. I've read on trextunning this problem is common with CF blades. The best performing blades I've used so far has been the woodies and I have fiber wood and CF blades. I've only had one crash with my t-rex and it was my fault. The heli was still in forward motion going away from me and i couldn't tell. So when I touched down it tilted forward and the blade struck the tail boom. (Bent main shaft . twisted tail boom)all in all not a bad crash.
Old 04-21-2006, 05:00 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Crazyhammer,

did you try to use them before you went through the balanceing? Just wondered if you had shake at startup and then more or less smooth.

I suppose after the balanceing it starts up pretty smooth.
Old 04-21-2006, 08:41 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Consult



Yes and No. I started up one time and new they were out(it was obvious)the COG was about 1/4in off. They are really hard to get tracked right. They will track though. Even after I got them balanced and tracked the start up was still rough. The heli would shake hard right before the blades stopped turning. So I took them off and put the wood blades back on and the shake was gone? Don't really know what caused the shake. I decided to try them again when I painted because I could sand them and actually have a nice finish that matched the heli. After I got done with them and put them back on the heli they were still hard to get tracked but once i got them tracked they ran perfect. You would think that CF blades should be perfect right out of the package since they cost so much. IMO I would rather have wood blades that matched. I have read that the tracking issue stops if you have the cnc flybar assembly though.
Old 04-21-2006, 11:16 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Crazyhammer,

thanks for that,

Interesting,

I have never needed to do anything but put new blades on. if they act wierd its only as they spin up and then fine while flying. Some seem better than others but I have used losi balls and screws and tape and glue to stick things back together and really never notice much difference once I retrim it out. most of the time it doesnt even change the tracking. Weird. I hear a lot of people talking about getting the blades perfect. most of my helis have dings tin the blades and I tape them to make the front edge smooth. Anyway, just weird I am not that great a pilot but never have balanced a blade, infact I unbalance them by crashing them, sure I add tape to both sides when I fix em up.

But not an exact science.

looks like about the same amount of tape LOL
.

Any way Flew three helis tonight. my NR3D. Walkera 22E and showgun brushless. Parts didnt arrive to fix my walkera 60, not breakinbg the other one till I fix the first. I need to fly my LOGO 10. still to scared to put 2000 in the air.

JD
Old 05-03-2006, 05:55 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Thats an awesome writeup Crazyhammer! Just wondering if it came from a PDF file with pictures etc? (as it refrences to Figure A and B etc). If it is from a PDF, Any chance you could post the whole PDF file up here? The pictures would be great for my slow brain!

Thanks heaps,


Mike.
Old 05-05-2006, 12:18 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Arven,

It comes from a post a few months back, after it had pictures to start out with but the links have since went bad. Maybe the orginal poster will see this and post new links or maybe email them to someone that can make the write up and host the pictures for him.
Old 05-06-2006, 09:47 AM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Walkera 60 for sale. 1800 and 2100 lipo. Brushless setup with 30amp controller. Make offer, comes with extra new parts.
Old 05-06-2006, 08:25 PM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

Argos,

your rex looks good.

I chewed up a main gear and need to see whats wrong, I guess I set it two loose.

anyway, stop by and vist here now and then.
Let us know your hightest offer or what you hvee and what you want for it. Im sure someone will need it.

JD
Old 05-07-2006, 08:46 AM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

I have over 350.00 invested, of course I wont get anywhere near that. So 150.00 + actual shipping charges. Includes two batteries lipo 1800 and 2100, charger, manual, TX, and extra parts.


Will post some pics when I get home from work.

Cheers
Argos
Old 05-17-2006, 02:52 AM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

I'm just setting up my TREX SE for my son. Does the Telebee have to be oriented (installed) as show in your photo?
Old 05-17-2006, 10:57 AM
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Default RE: Next Steps programming DX6 and Trex SE??

That's how my local hobby store said to do it.

JD

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