Just a thought.. There is a lot of creativity on this site. Has anyone built or tried to build the vertical retracts for this Herk. I built mine so that I could modify later, even though it already weighs 22#+. Billy don't worry about the Gray,, at least you have Grey.

You know Jim, I have a mechaism for mechanical retracts off of a set of Palmer C-130 plans. The probably could be modified to go the other direction... I think size might be a problem though.

Billy can you scan them and send me a copy? Thanks Jim

I can probably draw them and explain them better than the palmer plans shows them. Let me do a little work on it.

Slow start, but I'm rolling now. Hard points in the elev. and stab. Sheeting glued together and sanded.

gunny

Wow, it finally came!
I got the landing gear box built and installed as well as the nose wheel bulkhead and nose wheel steering assembly. I pretty much have a rolling airframe now I just have to get one more tire for the front. I also have the stab sheeted with servo holes and elevators cut out. Tomorrow if the bad weather holds out and keeps me on the ground then I will finish the rudder and start on the WING [:'(]. I want to fiberglass everything at the same time so I will wait until after I finish the wing. I think I'll go with 3/4oz cloth.

Anyway, my question is did you guys fiberglass the wing first and then glue the nacelles on or glue them on and then glass the wing?
Also, have you tried or thought about concealing the rudder linkage in the fuse? I'm not sure if there would be enough room. If I was going to do it I guess I would use music wire with an arm soldered onto the bottom unless there is an easier way of doing it.

Also, have you tried or thought about concealing the rudder linkage in the fuse? I'm not sure if there would be enough room. If I was going to do it I guess I would use music wire with an arm soldered onto the bottom unless there is an easier way of doing it.

A4HawkPilot.

I am concealing the rudder and elev. (just like the Hanger 9 cessna has done it)

Gunny

I did glass the wing with .4 oz glass and after the epoxy was fully set then I installed the nacells.

Each nacell was tac glued with thick ca to get the exact position, then I used 2 oz glas to cover all joints both INSIDE and outside the nacell.

CAUTION. be sure to scruff sand the fiberglas parts before you glass them. They really do have mold release agent and the glass won't stick.

I thought about stringers into the wing,, but I took a chance and only used the glass over the nacell area and wing. There was about 1" overlap with the wing and nacell. I also glassed the inside of the nacell at the extreme rearward position by mixing resin with small pieces of glass and then using a screw driver pushed it all the way back to the smallest area.

After 31 flights I have had no issue with the nacells, but I do check regularly.

Happy flying. Jim

PS>. I installed the 1/4 scale 120 oz servo in the rudder. The only thing that protrudes from the rudder is the ends of the servo arm. Then I used 4x40 threaded rods in a pull pull set up to control the rudder. I know this is overkill, but I wanted to be sure I had enough rudder in the event of engine failure. I have flown 2 approaches with 1 engine out due to fuel problems with no rudder control problems.

To c130nut

Regarding the ramp, I remember a post about a C-123 that had an operating ramp (one side up, one side down). Both pics and video of it. If you do a C-123 search here, it takes you to RCSCALEBUILDER and the C-123 thread there. Check it out.

Dave[8D]

thanks... will check it out

Hey Jim.... What page of the Herk: Hero of the Skies book were you letting me read at Mobile. It was about you and your unit. I picked up the book off of Ebay the other day.
Bill

Ok... I looked at the pics and the video... man that was cool. I wonder though how they got the servo to move os slow.
Here is the link.. look at the other pages associated with this thread... AWESOME!!!!
IDEAS on the video????
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...123&PN=0&TPN=6

I think it is about the 5th post down.

I need help on where to mount the servos in this c-130 65" wingspan from a Uncle Willies plans. for some reason, i dont know how to post the pics on here so email me for that pics
thanks brian

Not familiar with those plans here. The ailerons should be on the outer portions... so probably on the inside and in front of the aileron.
Uncle Willie's plans... never heard of that one. I would like to get my hands on that one though.... good size for electric
Bill

Billy:

EMS/Jomar sells a small box that will adjust servo speed. Intended to make the landing gear look more realistic, but it will work on your cargo door just as well.

It is the first item on [link=http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6]this[/link] page, it's noted as a gear door sequencer but it also has adjustable rate up to 10 seconds.

Bill.

Well, after finding out that I won't be able to fit a one piece wing in my "real" airplane I am going to have to make it a 3 piece. The model field I fly at is located on an airport so most of the time I just fly there.

What did you guys use for wing joiner tubes? This is one thing I have never had to build or deal with. How do you secure them together so they don't slide apart? I already have the center section sheeted and done so I don't know if its too late or not.

Hey Jim, what parts did you use there for your flap linkages?

What did you guys use for wing joiner tubes?
=========I got mine from Gator RC. $23.00 for the tube and phenolic insert that goes in the wings. It's really nothing to it.

How do you secure them together so they don't slide apart?
========There's a couple ways to do it. I just used a nylon strap, sort of like a landing gear strap, and strapped it across the split. I mounted ply blocks in each side and tapped them into it. since you don't see the underside of the wing, it doesn't really show. Only time I've ever had it apart was during an inspection. Here's a couple pic of the tube and joiner. The wooden dowels are obviously to keep the wing tip from twisting. I also inserted hollow tubes in the wing tips for the dowels to slide into, so vibration, etc. wouldn't wear out the holes. Probably just the ply facing on each root would have been enough, but to each his own I guess

I'm back. Whew have been moving Daughter into new apt. and not on line for a while.

Bill the page is 373.


The flap linkage was made using Brass stock from the hobby shop. I bent it into 2 90 degree ends so it would mount on to the threaded rod. The threaded rod was big bird elev horns. Don't remember the brand but they used 4x40 bolts and two nylon plates. The 90 degree on the brass prevents one flap from getting ahead or behind the other. This forces them to stay even. I used 2x56 bolts with lock tite to bolt the brass to the nylon eyelet. I drilled the center of the brass for a 4x40 rod end. The rod end allows the flaps to move linear while the servo moves in a rotating motion. This way there is no binding. This is probably a little heavy but I have never had a flap issue. Minor point is the outer edge of the #2 flap. (1 is closest to the fuse) does not touch the wing. This is due to the wing changing shape right at this point. I have about a 1/8" gap here but it is so minor I left it. I hope you can see from the photo I posted how I set it up. If you would like me to post it again let me know. Also if you want more photos I can take them with a digital and email directly to you if you give me your email address.

One other point.. I also bought the tubes from Gator R/c. I bought the 36" tubes and cut them in half.

I inserted a 2"x2" block of wood at the inside of the joining edge rib. THis was epoxied in place. I drilled/tap 1/4x20 hole and used a nylon wing hold down bolt and a 3" metal strap. If you have the wings sheeted you might have to cut into the bottom of the sheeting to insert the wood block. Not a big problem. Once you glass over the sheeting and paint it no one will ever know.

THis system is really easy to use. Bill watched me set up and it only takes minutes at the field. I put the fuse with wing center section in the pick up bed, then the wing ends in the cab. Set up is about 10 minutes total at the field.

WARNING.. I do tape the servo plugs from the wing so they won't pull apart in flight. Would not be a good thing to have no engine or aileron control..

Got my horizontal and vertical fins sheeted. Fitting up to the stab. saddle was'nt that bad. The only thing I noticed was that the last 2" or so on the saddle was slightly off. At first I thought it was the cores T.E. but I can see the defect it in the last 2" of the saddle. If I sqeeze the fues. the saddle comes up. I'm just only nit picking a 1/16 of an inch. I jamed a little former in the tail past the saddle And that pulled the saddle into position.

Gunny

ps. Tommorrow I cut out the elevators.

Just info on batteries. I have dual batteries in my Herk. Yesterday I was flying my Extra 300 and it went straight as an arrow into the ground. Postmortom found the battery buss strap welds were not full penetrating welds. The welds broke and the battery went to zero output. All flight controls of course remained in the last position of a cuban 8. Pic attached tells the results.

You might want to consider dual batteries. Also for those who might ask.. my Extra battery was very well foam insulated from vibration and the engine was on a Dubro Iso mount. Jim

Well guys... I am taking a break on the C130 to go to DC for a meeting this week. I got to tour the White House thins morning.... Got the meet the Pres's dog Barney! [&:] Hey Gunny... I sheeted mine and then put some light fiberglass on it... then used water based polyurathane on it... it formed a light shell. Then I went and put some finishing resin over that. It doesn't weigh that much more, but does require some heavy sanding, and a primer to get the coat smooth for painting. I also had an issue with some measurements, but I think they were my fault. Have fun guys, I gotta go to meetings...

Jim That's got to smart. When you use two battery packs do you just plug it in to a vacant channel on the RX? Thanks Rich

Jim I hope you didn't lose the motor. From the pic it is hard to tell. Rich

The OS 1.2 had about $100 damage. The carb and air line has to be replaced. The true turn spinner and the dubro iso mount (both trashed) took most of the damage protecting the OS 1.2.

For dual batteries, I would make up a Y harness and plug both into the Y then the 1 into the bat. on the rec. I know someone might say you could short a cell and should use a diode. This is correct, but I have never had a cell short in flight but I have lost 2 planes due to the buss bar failing. The buss bar is what dual bat's would protect. If you use 2 , 700 ma nimh packs you would have 1400 ma available and if the buss bar failed you would still have 700 ma which would allow you to continue flying. You can dected the buss bar when you cycle the packs. Cycling would show one pack at zero volts if the back were to open up.

Just thoughts,, currently as per photos,, I haven't used dual packs,, at least not yet. Jim

WhaT type of fiberglassing resin did you guys use? I just got done fiberglassing the tail surfaces and was about to start on the wing then I read somewhere that expoxy might have a hard time sticking to polyester resin. Bad news for the wing and stab I guess.