Okay, now we are getting somewhere. I may even put in a hardwood joiner in the center sections for more strengh. I picked up 20 sheets of 1/16X 4 X 48 today, so we are on our way.

I noticed that Sig sells the 7/8 tube and insert for $17 that is 16 inches long. I'm pretty sure it's the same one they use on the 40 size Somethin Extra. The part # for the tube and insert is SIGSH778.

Exactly what methods do you use to make the holes in the foam for the servo wires without weakening the foam in the center pieces?

By the way, about how many flights have you guys got on your Herk's so far, because I fly about 3 or 4 times a week, thats the penalty of living 7 minutes from the flying field...LOL
I'm planning on flying the Herk quite often and was a little curious on how well it holds up to a lot of flying.

I'm a little concerned about the way the plans call for mounting the engines in the nacelles. I just can't believe the fiberglass won't woller out around the screws from viabration. I'm trying to figure a different way in mounting the firewalls.

Tommy

Tommy, I use a "WELLER" soldering gun and make special shapes out of small copper tubeing to cut out the foam. It re-fuses the foam cells back together and makes it strong again.

I'm planning to use 2 firewalls, similar to the way rryman did it, but the rear firewall will be a perimeter frame (like some giant scale cowls are mounted) glued to the nacelle and the actual firewall will be bolted to this frame.

Hope this helps,

Gunny

.......................but the rear firewall will be a perimeter frame (like some giant scale cowls are mounted) glued to the nacelle and the actual firewall will be bolted to this frame.
===========
That sounds like a heck of an idea, Gunny, wish I had thought of that. Ever used "Shoe Goop" to attach ply to fiberglass? Works like a charm. I have my landing gear box glued in like that, along with about all the other parts inside the fuse. You thin it down just a little with lacquer thinner to about the consistency of thick epoxy.
Randy

Nope, havent tried the stuff. I wonder if it's similar to the Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo or PFM. I personally like to use on fiberglass the BVM glue system.

Gunny

That is exactly what I had in mind for the firewalls, but do you think you can still get the fuel tanks and servo to slip past? I'm just not sure how much wood will still be left for strenth after the T-nuts are installed and center is cut out for clearance.

Tommy

Randy, I'm not for sure, but I think "Marine Goop" is the same stuff, I know it's made by the same company, But I think it's more fuel resistant. You can find all you want in the auto and boat section at Wal- Mart.

Tommy

A 3/8" wide frame all around minimum for the t nuts. It also depends on what type, size and shape of the fuel tanks.

Gunny

I think most of the "Goop" products are basically the same. I used "Carpenters Goop", as well as the "Shoe Goop" I think they even recommended it on one kit I built.
As far as tanks, I'm using slimiline 4oz on the B-24. They are fairly skinny but longer. They may work well in those nacelles.
Randy

Where would i find one of those countour guides? I think I have seen something like that ... it basically holds the shape of the curve so you can trace it out.?>?>>?.. I am assuming. What else would it be called or where can I get one? OHH I located a source for the dolphin glaze locally. They have it at a body shop supply company.

................Where would i find one of those countour guides?

Probably get on at an Ace or True Value hardware store. They are sometimes called "copy cats" also.
Randy

Better yet, here's a pic and a web site.
Randy


http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...ter=copy%20cat

Well... I screwed up on my elevators. I did not even look at the plans, but it said to do like Ryan and taper them to the middle. I, for some reason, had it in my head that they were to be tapered toward the bottom (like the ailerons). Anyone see anything wrong with this? I do not know about the stresses on those control services vs the same setup on the wing. I think it will work, but I just do not trust the hinges very much.

Guys, I need to apologize to everyone for a statement I made a few days ago. It seems that I've upset another member in our flying club here in TN.
I stated that 1/3 of the members were using GMS engines. I was just guessing. In fact, exactly 12 percent of 74 members use them so far...LOL.

Bill, I don't think you will have any problem with hinging the elevators at the top, I'm thinking of doing the same when I get to that step.


Tommy

Tommy not a big deal,, I am famous for Round Off on numbers. Lets see.. 1/3 = .33 or 33% but given rules of rounding could be 50%,, but that would be the Jim's rule of round off. The real question is for a Herk is a GMS engine reliable enough to satisfy you that they won't quit when you need them to run. Who really cares %.. but then I am retired and don't count #'s anyway. Have a nice day.. Jim

extra300s243
are you a member of coffee airfoilers? I am a member there, I'm stationed in Marietta, GA right now but will be moving home this year when I retire from the Air Force. Tullahoma is my hometown. I will start my QF C-130 when I get moved home, Look foward to seeing your C-130.
fossil

Jim, I'm not going lie. I am a little worried about the engines quiting in flight. I've had very good luck with bigger size engines with no flame-outs in flight that I can remember, but I don't know of anyone that has tried the 32s. I guess I will be the guinea pig.

A friend of mine loaned me a Duraplane that I can use to break-in each engine in flight.
I'm also going to cut a plastic coke bottle and shape it as close to a nacelle as possible for a cowl trying to get the same air on the engine as if it were in the Herk. Maybe it will help out.

Tommy

Hey Fossil, yea buddy, Tullahoma it is. Our land borders the Air Force Base, just a few miles from the flying field. What is your name, I've probably met you before?
Look foward to seeing you.

Tommy D.

Bill, if you tapered the elevators like the ailerons, I can't see a thing wrong with that. I've done it that way on several planes. Makes for less gap on top. I can't see the stress factor being enough difference to worry about. Press on.
Randy

Its Randy Baker, I'm coming up this friday to visit my dad, whats the weather suppose to be like? I might bring a plane to fly.
fossil

Randy, friday is going to be very nice, mid- 50s sunshine, no wind. Saturday on the other hand is going to be a little warmer but cloudy and windy. My cell # is 931-308-8767,give me a call.
I'm probably gonna fly both friday and saturday afternoons.

Tommy

Progress report.

Pic. 1 - Rudder post with tork rod.

Pic. 2 - Gluing rudder post in and aligning with laser.

Pic. 3 - Once aligned, full set of clamps and a pair of wood strips on the outside to evenly clamp it inside the fin.

Pic. 4 - Looks good, but you should always at least double check your work with a ruler or tape measure. I checked stab tip to fin tip (compare to other side and should be right on) both diagonally and horizontally.

Gunny

VERY COOL IDEA!!!!! That torgue rod is a great idea!!!! Previously I was goig to do a standard horn or pull pull system. VERY COOL IDEA!!!!

I did a pull pull with the 120 oz servo mounted inside the vertical stab. Only the tips of the servo arms excend out of the stab. I used 120 oz due to the possibility of engine out, which has happened. Make sure your servo is large enough for the engine out possibility. On the real herk,, we could pull the flap control CB and move the flaps lever to greater than 20%, this would give 3000 psi rudder boost vs the 1250 normally used. So the rudder is a big deal if you lose an engine,, on the model and 1:1 size. Jim

Gunny11
Great pics and keep them coming I am saving every one. With all the pics everyone has posted its like having a virtual manual to go by.

Tommy
I'll bring something to fly& give you a call

fossil

I did the exact same thing already by putting in a torque rod and install a servo inverted on the bottom of the vertical stab. All linkages are totally concealed. You could almost do the same thing for the elevators too.
I'm pretty much on hold right now waiting for the wing tubes so I can finish the wings. Everything else is pretty much done so I have started with the primer and putty on the fuse. It is pretty much going faster then I thought it would and when I finish the fiberglassing the wings its all downhill from there.