I decided to go with a 4 cell 7.4V 4400MaH Lithium Ion pack with 16AWG lead and Deans connector from Super Battery Packs.

Man ....That's a hoss!!!! I ended up using three Fromeco 7.4v 2400MAH. The only thing is it looks like my CG is going to be a tad forward then I thought it would be. I ended building a tray with the extra spare wood.I mounted it aft the pull-pull rudder servo to hold two of the batteries. The other battery I will mount just forward of the rudder servo.
In all honesty, I probably could install the rudder servo in the tail and get a lot closer to the wanted cg range.
Here's a couple picture of the tray I built tonight.

Here's the radio position, and the tail area. I'm almost ashamed to show the pictures before I have a chance to clean up the wiring.

I was looking for a setup that was simple yet effective, I think this should be enough power running through a HD adjustable Smart-Fly regulator and HD switch, all of which should if fail do so in the on position. Well all but the battery LoL.
I plan to run a 2 cell LI-ion on ignition.

Got all the hinges gorilla glued in yesterday evening, cleaned them up this evening. Sure is less hassle and messy versus epoxy. I do cheat a little and use vaseline or such to coat the hinge points and covering anywhere I think it might foam out. Works great!

Greg,
I have a little metal cup. I think it was a votive candle mold(shhh don't tell the wife). I fill this with vasoline and place on my monocoat iron. The iron is proped up horozontal and inverted. I dip the knuckle of the hinge in, then bend the hinge the other way and stick it in again. The excess vasoline is wiped away with acetone, so it does not prevent the glue from doing its job. By liquifing the vasoline you get it down inside the movable part of the hinge and away from the glue surfaces.

Dan P

Thanks for the tip!

It is my experience that I am FAR more likely to get vaseline on the shaft of the hinge (thus ruining the glue joint) than I am to get glue in the knuckle of the hinge. I have never used a lubricant and never had a problem.

I discourage use of any oil until all the glue is dried, then you can put a drop on the hinge knuckle. YMMV.

TF

Tom when I built the WH Edge I had problems with the gorilla glue foaming out and getting in the hinge knuckle and making them very stiff. Had to work with an exacto for a while to dig out the glue LoL, so this time I wanted to make sure I did not have this problem.
I made very certain that I cleaned off the hinge shaft with denatured alcohol prior to glue application. I give my control surfaces a BIG pull after assembly and trust me these puppies are not going anywhere that it doesnt take half the wood in the wing with them LoL.
I do echo your concern for having a clean glue surface though, one must take precautions to keep the glue surface absolutely clean and lubricant free.

I use an abrasive cloth and acetone to clean the shaft. I glue into the "plane side" first, for this side I baby sit and wipe the glue as it oozes. When the control surface is attached I use blue painters tape to hold the surface to the plane and pick off the hardned glue the next morning. I have close two 500 flights between my 2 wildhares and have never had a hinge issue. I have done Tom's method, but it is a little harder to clean the glue out, it works equally as well.

With the GG did yall do as Tom suggested and tape over the hinge hole and then just cut a small hole in the tape? This prevents mess getting on the plane and keeps most of the hinge.

I think the other stuff I might now use beside the GG is Hysol although for the app. I think GG has the edge as it expands while drying.

I use the blue tape but before gluing the surface to the plane ai carefully cut the tape along the hing line, otherwise it is a real pain to remove.

Yea, That's what I did. It does a great job keeping it off the plane. However with the expanding GG, there is still clean up to do with the x-acto knife. It might have to do with the amount of glue but in to the hole too. I would rather know that I have a good joint and have a little more clean up.
Shaun

Thats the only watching of the plane part while the hinges dry with the GG glue. For getting them lubricated from the get go I use 3 in 1 oil. Even if a little GG gets out its nothing a hobby knife wont fix. Done this with a bunch of planes and never had a problem. I usually end up sealing both sides of the hinge gaps so you wont even see the hinge knuckles.

Those lion's with the pimp wire and deans connectors look sweet! How much did those set you back and where can I get some?

Bern from www.superbatterypacks.com and I believe all and all they cost me $65 to my door.

I have a question, I have the Bisson Custom Mufflers wrap around pitts muffler for my MVVS 45. To keep from butchering up the cowl was thinking of trimming the down tubes on the muffler then adding extensions and a couple elbows to direct the exhaust through the canister tunnel and out the bottom of the fuse. And not have to cut the bottom of the cowl.
My question is this, how will this effect the performance? I do not want to adversely effect the power and do not really want to cut the cowl, as it appears I will have to cut a portion of the mounting ring if I exit the bottom of the cowl as one normally would.

Just weighed the bird, muffler is the only thing that might change on this setup. The extra weighed in at 16 lbs and 2 oz's.
With a MVVS 45
BCM wrap around muffler (although this may change)
1 Lithium Ion 4800 4 cell 7.4V pack (receiver)
1 Lithium Ion 2400 2 cell 7.4V pack (ignition)
24 Oz tank, etc.
Built with all stock components with the exception of CF tail wheel assembly, and pull pull rudder.

Hey Tom,

This new 300 is beautiful, looks as nice as the Cap [sm=thumbup.gif] Is the cowl as wide as the Caps cowl?? Wondering if the 3W-56b2 would fit completely inside this new cowl like it does in the Cap?? If yes, i may decide to go with this one instead

Close, but not quite. The 56b2 is 10.3" cap to cap. The Extra cowl is 10.0" wide. The engine will be offset about 1/4" to the left, so the left side plug cap will protrude from the cowl about 1/2".

TF

You should be able to trim the outlet pipes a little at a time, start by just cutting off the tips. That will increase power and sound output.

It is possible to get the pipes just the right length to get the cowl on over the pipes and still have them exit outside the cowl. I know thi because I have done it. Go slow, trim a little at a time, and don't mount anything on top of the motorbox so the cowl can slip over with no obstructions.

Do not cut the cowl ring except as a last resort.

TF

Getting close..... This is by far the best looking plane I have had.

Couple more......

It looks a lot larger then the extra special. I guess it's from the wider fuselage?
Shaun

SHAUN..IS IT READY TO FLY AND WHEN IS THE MAIDEN????????

SCOTT

Almost ready Scott, I need to finish the Pull-Pull rudder, re-route some of the wiring to clean it up a little, and seal all the surfaces. Then give it a good once over.
She should be ready some time this week.
Shaun