If I really wanted to have no doubt that I could cut a servo opening and make it work There's no need for any of that though. The inside decking already has the opening for the rudder servo and the cable openings are in the aft fuselage under the covering. Did I mention that the covering appears to be Ultracoat and is VERY red? Bottoms of all the wing panels are white.

The cowl is proportionally a lot lighter than the one on the bigger Suk. Also fits better. It fits "end on" to the fuselage with no overlap which makes for a very clean look to the fuselage. I'll do some more pics in the morning covering the cowl attachment and some holes inside the fuselage intended for those that use those long funny tubular things for a muffler.

The 3mm-53 fits completely inside the cowl. I haven't checked the clearance for the plug and cap yet but will get to that as well tomorrow.

Pat, I'm sorry about not sending the manual, it's a work in progress but I could have sent it and saved you a little time.

I have some good news/bad news on the cowl ring.

The good news is the design was changed and should be a few ounces lighter and more durable. That 4 piece angled cowl ring looks good but is a little heavy and very hard to build.

So the bad news is those hooks on the bottom have been eliminated and the cowl mount us almost like the 102" Sukhoi. It's lighter, stronger because it's one piece, the lower attaching screws go in from the rear through tabs thet protrude slightly into the tunnel.

I also worry about the threads in the aluminum gear. I am working on a way to attach some nuts with JB weld as a backup to the aluminum threads, just in case.

The gear does not attach to the fuse sides likethe bigger Sukhoi, so it does not need that little strap on the bottom.

TF

For those using a cannister ---here's a picture of two predrilled holes just above the fiberglass tunnel. They are not drilled through the tunnel itself so that will be up to you if you need them. Some will use mufflers and not want the through openings. In any case, they will provide a support location for your cans that do not require additional support. Nice touch and shows that the manufacturer is thinking about his customers.

No worries about the manual Tom. You know I wouldn't have used it anyway. It's my way of giving you a hard tie once in awhile

RTFM (read the manual). You do not need to drill anything to mount a canister.

I have found (tested on the first plane) that it's possible to glue a piece of silicone tubing into the fiberglass belly pan with black RTV. I then added more RTV to make a "bed" for the muffler.

This makes a perfect fit, is very secure, does not rattle or burn anything, costs almost nothing, and the fuselage is completely sealed off from the muffler. Use a tie wrap to hold the muffler in.

I have the silicone tubing in stock, and it comes with the canister/header kit.

TF

Thanks.

Engine Mounting

Tom sent me this note the other day that applies to mounting the 3mm engine. The same information is in the manual but I thought I would post it here as well. Mounting the 3mm-53 really is this easy in the Sukhoi.

I made the mounting template and marked the firewall last night so the engine is just about ready to go on. The firewall center line is in the middle of the firewall pass through cut out so you'll need to use a couple of pieces of masking tape to mark on. Too easy. I'll post some pics of the process a bit later.

Copy of note:

I mounted the 3mm 53 on the Sukhoi today.

You will need 1" standoffs to get about 1/4" clearance between the prop
and the cowl. I just cut 4 1" pieces of 3/4" hardwood dowel and
drilled
the center. I also put a washer between the engine and the dowel to
keep it from compressing.

Make a template of the engine with the 4 mounting lugs and a small
hole where the centerline of the crank is. You can find a little bump
in the center of the rear bearing carrier, that's the centerline.

Find the center of the firewall and make a mark 1/4" to the left
(*right when looking at the front).

Mount the template to that mark through the mark to the right of
centerline. Drill your holes.

It took me about 15 minutes. I love this engine, it's so easy to work
with.

The standard muffler will fit with plenty of room.

TF

Back to mounting the engine.

I used Tom's method of having wood dowels for stand offs. Using wood has been my way from the first 28% Extra I had a few years ago and it still works great. So off to the hardware store to obtain a 48" length of 3/4" poplar wood dowel. I think it cost me a grand total of about $4.00. You can buy and use aluminum standoffs if you really feel the need but the wood ones work as well or better with no weight penalty.

Tom's plane has 1/4" clearance between the prop and the cowl, but I wanted a little more for a slightly more scale appearence. So I elected to make 1-1/4" stand offs to obtain 1/2" prop to cowl clearance. The length of the engine bolts will be determined by the lengtrh of the standoff. I had some 10-32 x 3" bolts here that worked just fine. If you elect to go shorter or longer on the prop to cowl distance be sure to consider what you can easliy obtain for mounting bolts for the local hardware store. There's always Microfastener.com or "all thread" if you can't come up with something locally.

When hanging the 3mm-53 the template method works just great. Just don't get in a big hurry like I did and miss the engine's height relationship with the firewall when you mount the engine. This one is a touch below center. Won't make any difference but the spinner may look a little funny. That's what happens when you don't follow the directions to stand the plane on it's tail to "sight" the engine and leave it laying down to make it easier.... It took about 30 minutes but I went back and raised the engine 3/16" to center it correctly. Next time I'll do it right the first time The last picture is there as proof that I did indeed go back and fix the engine height

In any case, anyone remember where in the 3mm engine thread I noted that the carb tuning screws were in a good place? Here's the proof of that. You can't get an easier to adjust carb location. Servos for the choke (if you use a choke servo) and the throttle will be mounted on the right side of the plane. The engine box will be a good place for them when you see how the linkage runs. Tom sent me a picture of a choke servo installation so it's included here for those that go that route.

One pic here is to show the way the cowl fits the fuselage lines. Nice.

Tom could you post PICs of the silicon tubing for the canister mount??? Thanks.

Greg,

Here's what Tom sent me earlier.

So run a zip tie through the silicone tubing then around the canister?? Wont the canister melt the zip tie???

I don't do cans so you'll have to direct that to Tom.

Now I don't mean to nit pick... but looking at that throttle servo linkage install it looks to me like that is asking for trouble? What happens if that screw comes loose and then you have metal on metal vibration along with no throttle?

Maybe I am too cautious but that doesn't look like the best solution? I am sure it has loctite on it.. just wondering if that's how you do all your planes?

**disclaimer: I am asking for knowledge.. not to knock your work

ps. you are right... that is very RED

Now go back and read what's in there about that choke connection. That's not the throttle. Tom provided the pic of the choke servo. There's a nylon clevis on the end of the choke rod. The choke lever is metal, the throttle lever is plastic. Both are secured to the carb via set screws against a flat cut into the throttle/choke actuator rods.

Personally, the only place I'll use an EZ connector is on a foamie. EZ connectors and gas giants are a no-no and would not be acceptable at any IMAA meet.

Sigh.

That's the choke. I have been using this type of connector for 10 years on light-duty linkages like this and never had a problem. This allows easy setup and adjustment of the pushrods.

What happens if it comes loose? The screw doesn't come loose. It's mounted in a brass fitting that really hold tight.

Re: the zip tie, you put another length of silicone tube over the part of the zip tie that's against the muffler.

I'll do some better photos tomorrow. This is a really slick way to mount the canister.

Thanks Tom I thought about that just before I read your reply hehehehehe. The silicone tubing, where can one find it locally?? I have the YAK ready to go except this hehehe, and Extra is almost ready so might as well knock em both out at once.

SS: Sorry, I missed that last line.. I was always better at looking at pics then reading anyhow

Tom: Like I said.. I wasn't trying to nit pick.. I just stated my initial reaction when I saw the pic.


/me hides in the corner and zips mouth shut... as you were

Landing Gear

Before we start on the landing gear I want everyone to stand up, hold up their right hand, and repeat after me. I, (insert your name), do solemnly swear to use Locktite, preferably red, but green will do, and not use blue, on all the screws used to hold on the main landing gear. I, (again insert name), do understand that failure to use Locktite on the main landing gear screws could be cause for my landing gear falling off at the worst possible time. I, (the name please) understand that if I'm really lucky both will fall out at the same time permitting a nice belly landing, but if only one falls out I (name) will probably beat the daylights out of my plane upon landing.

Now we have that out of the way and ya'll will remember to use Locktite on the gear screws we'll get started.

The main gear come in two parts, each with (3) pre-threaded holes that accept a 10-32 screw. I could not find any in the hardware kit but I used 3/4" x 10-32 with a flat and lock washer at each location. There is a slot under the covering on each side of the fusleage for the gear legs to be inserted into. When I first inserted the gear the threaded holes did not line up all that well with the holes inside the fuse so I reversed the gear to see if I had them on the wrong side. Nope, the holes looked to be wrong.

Doing a little more research and a few hmmms later, it was concluded that the holes in the gear were just fine but the slots in the side of the fuselage needed to be cut about 1/8" father aft than where they stopped. Since the fuselage is balsa a couple of quick passes with an Xacto knife fixed things right up. BTW, don't use the holes in the deck for a can. They're for the landing gear.... Installation of the gear legs after that was quick and easy. I kinda liked not having to reach up inside to add a nut or use a hex wrench in a tight space. This is much to nice. I shouldn't say that 'cuz he'll prolly change it to something harder now

I have a choice in tailwheels to use on this one. The one that comes with the plane or one I have from RCBlimpro. Since someone took away my option of using a tail mounted rudder servo I've opted for the stock tailwheel. It's also a little longer and extends farther aft which has two benefits aside from a little more weight. One is that you get to use the hole that's already drilled for the tailwheel and not need to drill a new one, and two, it's long enough I should not be banging the end of the rudder on the ground when I pull up into a hover. Did much too much of the rudder bashing thing with my Edge and it's very hard on a servo using direct linkage.

The tailwheel comes with a couple of "U" brackets that are used to secure it by using some small sheet metal screws set into the bottom of the fuselage. Toss the screws and obtain either some 4-40 or 6-32 allen head sheet metal screws. Use those to secure the "U" brackets. Just drill 4 holes in the bottom of the fuselage after centering the tailwheel rod. There is a hardwood doubler under the plywood of the aft fuselage that makes for a solid and secure tailwheel mount. Harden you screw threads with some thin ca before you install the screws for the final time.

Those "U" brackets fit a little loose on the tailwheel rod so I used some glow fuel tubing with a large inside diameter to quiet things down between the tailwheel rod and the brackets. Easy to do and acts like an additional tiny shock absorber. You'll note a short metal tiller that's included in the tailwheel package that comes with the plane. Install that on the bottom of the rudder for tailwheel tiller steering. If you don't like the ground handling then you can make a longer one out of 1/8" aircraft ply or something to increase the tailwheel effectiveness. The edges of the holes in the tailwheel tiller are pretty sharp and hard to dull. Remember that when you go to connect your tailwheel springs. Using fishing line or other regular type string will get cut easily. I like to make a small cable loop out of left over rudder cable and run it through the tailwheel tiller. Then I attach whatever to that.

My work has dictated that I have to leave for a few days to do something. Should be back late Saturday sometime. Hopefully that will be all the interruptions until this is done and flying. So those that are also building this bird feel free to jump in with some details and pics to keep things lively.

Anyone know of a better spring for the tail wheel than that shown in the PIC? I have had 3 break/dissapear in flight/landing in the past 8 flights, grrr.
I finally went to HDepot looking for an alternative, found a nice little spring with closed loops for a plate wall hanger. So far it is holding up great!

Ace hardware usually has a really nice selection of springs which are well organized and easy to find.

The tubing might just be fuel line for glow planes.

I have that tubing here, Greg I can send you a foot of it.

It's similar to fuel tubing but must be larger to allow the zip tie to go through it.

TF

Greg,

Don't feel bad, I don't use the stock springs either. I get mine from the same supply source as Sailing1. Ace Hardware or another local hardware store outlet. Auto supply stores sometimes carry springs as well under throttle retyrn springs. So I suppose that would put motorcycle shops in the same supply chain.

Thanks I appreciate the info guys.. Tom that would be great!!!

TO ALL

For those that were following this build and review in order to make a decision or in seeing how some things were done, I must offer an apology.

Some of you are aware that I'm in a rather unusual line of work. I received sudden word today that my skills are required elsewhere for an extended period of time beginning very shortly. This "call" makes it impossible for me to finish this build-review for many months to come. I truly hope that some of the others that have one of the first 6 kits are able and willing to post pictures of their work and provide descriptions of how they are doing things.

Thanks to all that have been following this thread, and once again, my apologies for failing to complete the project. I'm really sorry to leave ya'll hangin' on this.

Thanks,
Pat