ok, thanks rctom and T.O.M, i will keep that in mind.

I have a fuel line question. Since it is starting to warm a bit here, I thought I’d do a bit of PM on my SU. One of the things I read lately was a recommendation to replace the fuel lines every year because even the tyvek hardens with age and exposure to gas. I don’t think most of mine are that hard after one season, but I took the tank apart and the clunk line is as stiff as a board. I could hardly cut if off the clunk and brass tubing!

So a question … I have new tyvek line, but with a short length like is in the tank, even new line is not very flexible. What are people doing about that? It really needs a much heavier clunk to be effective and drop to the bottom when inverted, but I have never seen heavy clunks. So what is the solution?

Dip it some gas and see if it softens up yeah it does harden over time but when it is void of fuel it is harder than when in the fuel if that makes sence LOL .. Also some tygon is softer than other from what I have seen being different brands and such...

Hey Bari, You don't have to use tygon tubing some guys in my club are using regular black fuel tubing that you can buy from a local lawn mower repair/parts store. It stays soft and lasts for years and it comes in different sizes. Take a piece of tygon and match it up.

Greetings Rctom, im having a little trouble doing the knife edge on my sukhoi, do i need to make son mix on this plane?

Probably, most planes require a little mixing to do one hand knife edge.

TF

Bari1,

Regarding the use of a heavier clunk. Some years back I quit using the clunks that come with the gas takns and now use a Walbro filtered clunk. They are much heavier and serve a dual purpose by also filtering the gas much better than most anything else available.

I used them for a while, but I stopped for two reasons.

First, I like to use a 2 line systrem which means I fill through the supply line. With a filtered clunk any debris gets caught on the engine side of the filter and will instantly end up in the carb screen. Without the filter there is at least a chance that a little debris will not be sucked up.

More important, I had several of those pickups simply clog up for no apparent reason. There was no debris in it, it just quit flowing fuel This caused me several situations where my engine would not start or ran very lean. I was unable to blow air through the pickup line, let alone gas.

I also have heard (but never experienced) that these clunks can shed some of their fibers into the fuel stream, possibly they break down and this is what causes the clogging.

So I ditched it in favor of simplicity and have not had a problem since. I do filter the fuel going into the tank though.

TF

HI People

Hey just pull the fibre part off the fuel pick up and you still get the heavier clunk and no fibres.
Having said that I have been in the small engine trade for about 35 years and can not really say I have seen the fibres from these fliters clog anything. Still to ere on the side of safety is wise!!
Lee

Well, today was a bad hair day. The motor died while practicing an inverted elevator, out a ways from the runway. I said "stay calm and land it in that open area". With the distance, it was hard to judge the distance from the sand pile. Anyway, the plane crashed into the soft pile of sand and the pictures show the damage. Besides the firewall, the cowl was broken, but believe it or not, the prop was not damaged. Tom will be shipping a new cowl and fuselage tomorrow. It isn't 100% clear as to why the engine died, but the Tygon line attached to the clunk was stiff and would only bend half way when the tank was inverted, so the engine could have been sucking air. The problem with that theory is the fuel line to the carb was full of gas with just a couple of small air bubbles. The engine was running on the high idle switch. I disassembled the engine (DL-50) and cleaned it up real good with no visible damage. The plane should be back in the air next week.

Chuck

Not bad at all heck I tore my firewall off when I tumbled mine and have since repaired it well you will have a spare fuse anyhow they can take a licking and keep on ticking LOL

Hey you could fix that??? New cowl!!. I have been using a product called Hysol by Loctite its like epoxy with micro ballons but way better. Its just the thing for this sort of mishap mate.
I have been buying it fron DA Australia. Anyway hope your back in the air real soon.
Whats Happened to aaxiss??????
Lee

Hey All,
Been flying my 50cc Sukhoi for a year and a bit more now, and yesterday at the field realized after a landing on very soft and soggy ground that my gear are loose. Further exam reveals that the gear plate is indeed cracked in several places. I have gotten the components out of the way, and have cut some access holes in the fuse....and can see some pretty extensive damage.
Here is the question.......does anyone have any suggestions or pics of gear repairs that they have accomplished?? I am now formulating a plan, but others ideas in this area would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Darryl

Last time I damaged a gear plate or the gear side walls I put them back together using the original components as tight as I could get them to go and hit them with thin ca to lock the parts together. Then I laminated a layer of 5.9 oz carbon fiber omni weave over the stiffened ply.

In my old Sukhoi, I took the parts out as carefully as possible, put them together, traced them on the same size aircraft ply. Reinstalled the plate and it was as solid as before. Put it back in place with gorilla glue.

Same sort of repair as yours but again I used the Hysol glue and just covered the lot looks pretty bad but its inside and not seen from the outside
I also have a bit of 4/40 rod in between the landing gear so as not to stress the that part of the fuse. This has been very succesful
Lee

Thanks guys........Im glad to hear the ideas, and to hear Im not the only one who has dorked their gear!!! [:@]

I like the carbon idea........may have to give that a try, or just some heavy fiberglass. I just wish I would have found it last fall so I could have spent the long winter repairing instead of the good flying weather!!

D

Yes, I had to repair my gear once already. And that was after a landing with one mild bounce on a hard runway. The board where the alum brackets are bolted on to split and the alum angles bent beyonf repair. So I made me my own brackets from
better quality aluminum (1/16") and reinforced the top of the board with a strong piece of CF board. Now I don't have to worry about landings on hard surfaces anymore. The addtitional weight is minimal. The added strength-invaluable

I added an extra 1/4" aircraft ply doubler on top of the original plate, sandwiching the aluminum angle brackets, with a good shmear of 30 minute epoxy during initial assembly. Never had any issues with strength although the bolts should be checked and tightened regularly. Loose bolts can do more damage than a bad landing.

I have one of the original Sukhois, and I have seemed to misplaced my wing tube, anybody know the correct size? Length and diameter? Thanks

Here is a link to my thread where I did a repair to my landing gear - hope its helpful: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60...3/key_/tm.htm#

tom

Length is about 40" or 1 meter, diameter is 1.250"

Hey Lee , I'm still around, haven't been flying my Suk lately, I crashed it a while back. since been repaired but I been flying my 33% zdz super 80 powered yak54 lately. Also working on a 1/5 scale Topflite P51, building from kit form . Looking to compete in The regional scale masters with it next year in either Fun or open scale class. Other than that just trying to stay out of trouble LOL

Good to hear aaxiss.
Hey I got a 33% WH Suhhoi with a DL100, still flying the 50cc suk and its going great (touch wood), will fly this in August at our NT State Champs in Alice Springs, so have been prctiseing the Basic IMAC, just cant seem to get the push over the top and the 2 turn spin to work very well. Still!! practise practise.
Hey keep in touch [email protected]
Lee

Hey everyone, I know this has probably come up before in this thread, but I would like to if there is a (simple) way to get the old hinges out of the rudder other than trying to drill them out. I have a few that have come completely apart and there is alot of play in the others. Thanks in advance flyboy12