Welcome to Club SAITO !
06-25-2018, 11:45 AM
My Feedback: (1)
Has anyone seen this before, it looks like Saito change their minds about the timing on the left 90-T cam. At least I hope they did it.
Jim
06-25-2018, 03:10 PM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
That left cam, (the 100-T) has the single slash and the current instructions say to use it same as the dot for the right cam. The little cam holder tool will not work with the left cam.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-26-2018 at 02:45 AM.
06-25-2018, 03:10 PM
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CR
06-26-2018, 02:09 AM
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: DBN, SOUTH AFRICA
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saito 150
I need a little help, have a saito 150 that’s been sitting since school days ( 2001 ) wanting to get it up and running now. The motor is gummed up and won’t turn over, and it has 15x6 apc on it.
Im worried that the prop was to small and could have caused damage ? It hasn’t run that much
What would you recommend to give it a once over and a clean bill of health ?
Im worried that the prop was to small and could have caused damage ? It hasn’t run that much
What would you recommend to give it a once over and a clean bill of health ?
06-26-2018, 02:44 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
The prop should be a 16 x 8 or an 18 x 6, soak whatever's stuck with new fuel to start with. Be certain to use a prop to turn the engine, keep your pliers in the next County.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-26-2018 at 02:49 AM.
06-26-2018, 03:02 AM
I need a little help, have a saito 150 that’s been sitting since school days ( 2001 ) wanting to get it up and running now. The motor is gummed up and won’t turn over, and it has 15x6 apc on it.
Im worried that the prop was to small and could have caused damage ? It hasn’t run that much
What would you recommend to give it a once over and a clean bill of health ?
Im worried that the prop was to small and could have caused damage ? It hasn’t run that much
What would you recommend to give it a once over and a clean bill of health ?
Take off the rear cover, oil up with a bit of whatever you like (ATF works good) .Also pull the rocker covers and oil that area, remove the glow plug and oil that area too. Leave the plug out.Use a heat gun to warm the engine well. The heat helps to soften up any gumming and helps at getting the oil to creep into tight spots. As was said, use a solid propeller to work the engine. The heat helps a lot in toughest cases.
06-26-2018, 06:46 AM
06-26-2018, 08:42 AM
Well Dave,
Not dumping, We have been comparing batteries. The NiMh type are well suited for the constant load applications such as transmitters and even the CDI. They have a good measure of capacity for their weight. Aside from the later Eneloop type , they tend to self discharge quickly and this often leads to people overestimating flying time.
NiMh are also a bit fussier than NiCds regarding charging, overcharging in particular.
NiCd are generally more robust, easier to charge and better suited to high drain, transient tloads like seen with servos. Again, for a given capacity , they tend to weigh in a bit higher than NiMh , all relative comparisons. NiCd are just as reliable, perhaps even more so.
Problem is, lately the stuff coming from Asia is often sold with wildly over-rated capacity and it is a good idea to verify real capacity by testing. This goes for NiMh or NiCd. The name brand stuff you mention is going to be right up there with the best. Ignitions and transmitters I would comfortably use NiMh. With receiver/servo loads I lean to NiCd for nickel based batteries.
Noting there are differences is in no way *****ing.
The Graupner props are indeed fine products. I do hesitate to call anything "best ever" however.
I have had a few of my posts **** on as you probably well know . But I wouldn't have them deleted
No problem.
The battery ACDCII mentioned would be outstanding for a receiver or ignition power source
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYAT1&P=7
Not dumping, We have been comparing batteries. The NiMh type are well suited for the constant load applications such as transmitters and even the CDI. They have a good measure of capacity for their weight. Aside from the later Eneloop type , they tend to self discharge quickly and this often leads to people overestimating flying time.
NiMh are also a bit fussier than NiCds regarding charging, overcharging in particular.
NiCd are generally more robust, easier to charge and better suited to high drain, transient tloads like seen with servos. Again, for a given capacity , they tend to weigh in a bit higher than NiMh , all relative comparisons. NiCd are just as reliable, perhaps even more so.
Problem is, lately the stuff coming from Asia is often sold with wildly over-rated capacity and it is a good idea to verify real capacity by testing. This goes for NiMh or NiCd. The name brand stuff you mention is going to be right up there with the best. Ignitions and transmitters I would comfortably use NiMh. With receiver/servo loads I lean to NiCd for nickel based batteries.
Noting there are differences is in no way *****ing.
The Graupner props are indeed fine products. I do hesitate to call anything "best ever" however.
I have had a few of my posts **** on as you probably well know . But I wouldn't have them deleted
No problem.
The battery ACDCII mentioned would be outstanding for a receiver or ignition power source
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYAT1&P=7
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-26-2018 at 08:49 AM.
06-26-2018, 09:43 AM
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-26-2018, 09:56 AM
My Feedback: (1)
06-26-2018, 09:59 AM
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jesse,
I've been using NiMH batteries for flight packs for a number of years. Never had a NiMH battery sag on me in flight, to my knowledge. Of course my practice is to calculate the peak current loads and double the battery capacity to compensate. It's all about the internal resistance of the battery cells.
I don't think the battery type is extremely relevant as long as the pack isn't overloaded.
CR
I've been using NiMH batteries for flight packs for a number of years. Never had a NiMH battery sag on me in flight, to my knowledge. Of course my practice is to calculate the peak current loads and double the battery capacity to compensate. It's all about the internal resistance of the battery cells.
I don't think the battery type is extremely relevant as long as the pack isn't overloaded.
CR
06-26-2018, 10:00 AM
06-26-2018, 10:08 AM
Jesse,
I've been using NiMH batteries for flight packs for a number of years. Never had a NiMH battery sag on me in flight, to my knowledge. Of course my practice is to calculate the peak current loads and double the battery capacity to compensate. It's all about the internal resistance of the battery cells.
I don't think the battery type is extremely relevant as long as the pack isn't overloaded.
CR
I've been using NiMH batteries for flight packs for a number of years. Never had a NiMH battery sag on me in flight, to my knowledge. Of course my practice is to calculate the peak current loads and double the battery capacity to compensate. It's all about the internal resistance of the battery cells.
I don't think the battery type is extremely relevant as long as the pack isn't overloaded.
CR
Spot on RE capacity.
Just that people tend to lump the two together. There are differences. Charging is another . For the most part, NiCd are a bit more robust overall. Point I was after is that NiCd are at least as good from a relibility standpoint.
06-26-2018, 12:17 PM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Should be here on 6-30
You're welcome, my almost new Spektrum DX 7 has a 2,200 ma Lithium Ion battery, it has no charging restrictions. When it alerts you, you just charge it. I had to re-set the 90-T left cam on doing the top of the exhaust stroke check it was off, my bad. It's right on now. I am waiting for the gasket set I showed above. I had a good set of cam cover gaskets.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-26-2018 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Add Picture
06-26-2018, 05:42 PM
My Feedback: (1)
Dave, when I put the cam in my FA 100 "with the timing pin inserted in the tappet boar" I notice there was gear lash only to one side when I moved the crank left and right, with that I thought the timing was off 1 tooth, I found my timing pin was a bit loose in the tappet boar, so I put some clear packaging tape around the timing pin, that was just enough to tighten up the pin in the tappet boar, then I reset the timing and at that the gear lash was equal to the left and to the right,,, BTW, I did measure the new and old cam housing gaskets, both were the same thickness,
I have put-together a few auto engines, and more than a few 2Sts of all kinds, but this was my first for a 4St Glow engine, ether way the lash is equal to the left and right with the crank straight up,
too add, I was surprised to find as much gear lash as I did, Saito should use a finer tooth pitch on those gears, the gears would turn smoother and the timing would be more accurate, it would be a win win, JMO and it's not humble LOL
Jim
06-27-2018, 12:07 AM
To this at 1.9 mil...hint,a high end european jewel maker was involved.
The same bike as it started life off the showroom floor.
Jim that saito 450 always works well in a corsair,beautiful sound.Would make good sense to use the big fg gas saito in one of those tho.
Dave in todays paper i read that donald duck is making things really difficult for harley in the US and europe,apparently harley have shut down their kansas plant or are going to.
06-27-2018, 01:41 AM
RH
The plowboy magazine tip sounds fine but I was more interested in the actual thickness of those aftermarket gaskets. The thickness of course influences gear backlash.
The hogly decision was actually made quite some time before tarrifs had been an issue. Really not a big deal. Hoglys are mostly made up from Asian parts that are screwed together here.
Makes little difference where they get screwed, together.
The new Indians are looking pretty good.
The plowboy magazine tip sounds fine but I was more interested in the actual thickness of those aftermarket gaskets. The thickness of course influences gear backlash.
The hogly decision was actually made quite some time before tarrifs had been an issue. Really not a big deal. Hoglys are mostly made up from Asian parts that are screwed together here.
Makes little difference where they get screwed, together.
The new Indians are looking pretty good.
06-27-2018, 01:48 AM
06-27-2018, 02:11 AM
Thanks Dave,
That makes them a bit thicker than OEM.
RH,
When the JPN first arrived at Anderson Cycle sales, I went to look. I was actually interested in buying one. When I got there, it was on the floor. Unfortunatleyfor Notrun, they had the Moto Guzzi Lemans sitting on display right next to it.
I went away no longer wanting the Notrun in the least but very much interested in the LeMans.
That makes them a bit thicker than OEM.
RH,
When the JPN first arrived at Anderson Cycle sales, I went to look. I was actually interested in buying one. When I got there, it was on the floor. Unfortunatleyfor Notrun, they had the Moto Guzzi Lemans sitting on display right next to it.
I went away no longer wanting the Notrun in the least but very much interested in the LeMans.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-27-2018 at 02:17 AM.