http://www.carboncopyuk.com/

Ekas,

Only address i know for Ola is:

http://home.online.no/~ofremmi/

Yea he's a real nice guy. Discussed at length with him wing design couple of years back at EC in Zamora. Result was i modified my Alliance wing and im currently flying a modified Synergy. Both go extremely well.

He flys with the OS 140 in both F3A and 3D so he knows the engine inside out.

Angus

Angus. Ola knows his CAD also. I used his YS 120 dxf drawing and modified it to add on the 140 Codpiece plan [8D]
That standard of CAD takes skill

Ohh Baron i thought you drew that!I thought you were good!

Ys160 is in!

Nice one Luke![X(]




Adam

Luke not keen on the single bolt each side motor to mount [:-]

PS. Luke I used Ola's dwg and added all upgrades to 140l spec then drew the hyde ARI to suit. Mine has fibre arms and bolts on all four holes.

Y do u need a nosering?





Adam

Adam. It helps stop the motor ocilating @ low revs.

But then it be a hard mount It stops the front of the engine flapping about (technical term)

Angus

cool, how come on lukes 160 he has no bolts at towards the front of the engine?





adam

Its bolted onto the rear holes of the engine mounting lugs

Luke

have you added any reinforcing between the engine box and the first fuselage former ?

I'm in the process of putting a YS110 in the Capiche 90. Having just run the 110 on the bench, I think the joint is going to need something extra..........


Chris

The whole engine box is glassed in very fine grade glass cloth. The cloth continues 1 inch down the fuz. Have had no issues with breakage in this area at all. We will see when it comes to the 19x8W though, but the whole area feels very sound and strong. The only other mods dad has also done is the pipe tunnel, servo tray, u/c re-enforcement , and more carbon in the tail to eliminate ever so slight shockflier twist during rolls


As for bolting onto the rear holes, i was initially very suprised they did this(feel like asking hyde why not just continue the beams a little further and use two holes?), but the engine feels very secure mounted like this because of the nose ring. I think i will try it out like it is at the moment and then see how its looking in five flights' time.

Sounds good





Adam

Luke, are you telling us Hyde recommend that the motor is fixed like that?

on pylon engines we use big solid cast mounts to help maintain the crankcase shape (there are big forces acting on the crankcase) and a lightly made high performance 4 plopper like the YS160 must be subject to some serious forces (especially with a heavy glass 19" prop doing 9k) I don’t know if we have any "real" clever people out there but i would like to know what gyroscopic force is applied to the mount when an up line flick roll is done at WOT.

Why change what works i say. Daddy Balfour has one. Great mount.

Angus

I can't quite understand the logic in stopping the beams 20mm short like that [:@]

Unless its because it is dificult to swing the motor into place. On my ARI with the 140L I had to take the nose ring off fit the motor then reattach the ring.

As the boy said a 19x8 in a snap is going to give a lot of greif to those 4mm bolts and that last bit of cast ally with holes in [:@]

not to mention a wall[X(] how many bolts hold the back case on luke?

If you mean how many bolts hold the mount to the fuz, 6 bolts hold it to the firewall, and each of the engine mount beams have two bolts securing them to the mount.

The rubber of the mount does have quite a lot of rotational flex in it so should help.

malc i dont think thats the reason why they did it, because i had to take the nose ring off to get the motor in too.

I willl try it as it is at the moment, and if its not up to the job i will get some fibre arms or get dad to make some.

Luke, where did you get the mount from, and how much for?

Also, I think you mentioned that the yellow you were using from Halfords was "Porsche Cadmium Yellow". I need to buy some.

I have no issue with firewall to mount Luke. Its the mount to motor I hate.

Hi Sprink,

I gave probuild a ring and they said that they didnt stock it but put me in touch with a guy who was looking to sell one. I then phoned him up and then had the mount in my hands the very same day! Got it second hand unused for 130. At first glance it appears that it will absorb much more vibration than the gator mount, and the engine also feels more secure.

Yes it was porsche cadmium yellow. i will just look up the specs to double check. Its not fuel proof though - put some lacquer over it. Does match the yellow profilm bang on though will make that cowl of yours look much much better

i see how it works now,the nose ring is the main structure for strength,does the 160 run smoother on idle than the 140?

I dont know yet i will let you guys know when i do!