i'm not sure about that notice. when my horizontal stab came off in flight, i was using the recommended os 91fx, the 14x6 prop and flying and 1/2 throttle. and yet on the second flight, flying straight and level - BAM - no more tail. i sent the remaining piece of tail back to AnnMarie Cross and i have yet to hear back from her about what was wrong. but everyone at my field saw the wood used, we knew. the wood was so soft, you could crsuh it inbetween your thumb and for finger without squeezing.
thats why i know have a solid wood stab with spruce spars. i also added digital servos for extra holding power. i have now done full power low fly-bys with NO problems. and to top it off, i added some tail weight with the solid stab that i needed anyway.
tony

Has anyone tried pulling off the covering to see if there is a bit of weight that could be lost here and there?

searcher: Take that photo soon.......while it still is in one piece!!

Robert,

I'd be willin to bet you could shed about 4-6 oz in just the wing alone, but it wouldnt be easy. My wing weighs a ton (1 1/2 lbs I think) with radio gear on board. I'd be willin to bet if you went with a single color monokote scheme instead of the three colors on top and the checkerboard on the bottom, you might save a couple oz in covering. The covering is just layered on, and the checks are layed over the base color as well. The fuse itself is pretty light, considering the size of the plane. You might be able to get the plane sub 7lbs, but it would take an ultralight 2 stroke/non stock pipe, a bunch of sanding, and the smallest hi torque servos you can find. Might be more work than its worth.

Steve

Which one do you guys think it's better the UCD or the flip, I mean overall performance and more fun, what about the UCD with and OS61FX?

Thanks

Not enough ooomph in my opinion, with the 61FX, although it should still be very good.

I have a OS 90 and it is just great. The 60 will fly it but 3d the 90 is a must and you could also use a bit more !

The only substitute for cubic inches is more cubic inches!

Hold her at arms length, blip the throttle and let go. She's wont hit the ground...trust me :stupid:

i have a saito 100 on mine.. what power...

Did you miss that "180"? He was not referring to a 100.

That is over kill. The Sai100 gives it a 2 to 1 power to weight ratio already and will jump out of a hover.

Hey you California RC,ers Its 12.04 What is the time there? Right now?

9:30pm, It's bed time captinjohn

Gotta laugh!
I posted back on 8/25 that I had a YS 1.40 in mine and everybody thought I was an idiot and would blow the tail off!
Well I might be but the tail stayed on!!!!

Keep 'em flying boys!

Rob

I know. I remember when you posted that, I think the fact that you fly at some altitude took some of the awe factor away, but then, probably not many people know how much power the YS140 has, even if just the FZ. I have a YS120SC on mine, and I bet it has the power of a Saito180, it just doesn't douse the plane in as much fuel as the Saito does ha ha. I don't understand how people can talk about "overpowering" a supposed 3D plane. Supposedly 3D is accomplished by prop wash, how can you have too much of that? Anybody knows you have to exercise throttle management, and use that full or 2/3 or 1/2 power when suitable.
DKjens

I think some of the concern came from swinging the larger prop and the proportionally larger vibrations the airframe must handle because of it. No amount of throttle management can eliminate that.

Don't listen to Rob guys, he sold his UCD to my brother before it could come apart - kidding Rob. He was the inspiration for me to go with my YS 120. Rob, did I read that Jim Eide was building you an OMP GS Edge Profile? You going to put the Moki 2.1 on it like his? Fuse is done on mine, start on the tail group tonight.

Dale

Just flew my new UCD3D first time with a new Saito 100.

Smooth engine, smooth plane. Peaked at 9,300 with a 14 X 8 APC, 15% Cool Power, flew it a little rich @8,900. Will try a 15 X 6 next time.

Blustery cold day, so I didn't try the gyros and the high rates much, but, man!, this setup has a huge power/weight ratio! You guys with the 1.40's and the 1.80's must really be horsing it around !

Till yesterday never saw one of these fly first hand. I'm convinced the tail moment is the key to its performance.

mt

Guys: When you run the big 1.8 make sure the rpm that you use to hover is not the same rpm where viabration may be the worst.... or it will destroy air frame. Cj

I know this is not a popular engine with most, but when this airframe was younger, I remember comments made, of using their Supertiger 90 just because they had one available sitting on the shelf. Reading thru on different engines used, I haven't seen comments flying with the Super Tiger 90. I'm building the UCD and have a Super Tiger sitting waiting, but can't decide to use it or get a Saito 100. Is there any anyone that are or were using the ST90 in this airframe. Thanks in advance, and I do know this may not be the best choice of engines, but I do have one sitting on the shelf available.

Rich

OK guys, I got one for Christmas and have some questions.
- Did any of you have to beef up the firewall?
- What is a waterfall and do I need fast servos to accomplish?
- Are there alot of horz stabs failing?
- Anyone mounting their Saito 100's with a softmount?
- Anyone running 30% fuel in their Saito's (like I do with my 1.80)?
- Is everyone using the stock wheels or are you going larger?
- How are you guys running your antenna's?

I know I'm asking alot but I've read just about everything on this thread and RCADMIN's review. Please be patient with me. Thanks!

Waterfall= outside loop within a fuselength, rotating around the trailing edge of the wing. Fast servos help, but you need servo torque, and alot of servo throw. The farther back the CG, the easier to waterfall and spin with.

I didnt beef up my firewall, but i did glue as much as i could.

I put tail wires made out of .047 wire with soldered ring connectors. I needed the tailweight anyway, might as well make it functional. I drilled and tapped thru the vertical fin, and the outer trailing edge of the stab(thru the ca hinge), and ran 1 inch pieces of 4/40 threaded rod thru. Some aluminum washers, and aluminum nuts with a drop of loctite to hold them in place. On the bottom of the fuse, I mounted the lower wires to the rear servo mount screws on my rudder servo. I put the rudder servo under the fuse to run pull-pull.
If needed, Ill do the same to the leading edge of the stab, but I dont think that would be necessary.

Dont have a soft mount, but may put some rubber washers between the firewall and mount, to give me the right thrust and some vibration damping.

I'm not running a Saito, and am using 15% nitro.

Stock wheels should suffice, even turnin a 16 inch prop, youll have plenty of clearance. If you fly off of grass, or are really weight conscious, dont install the wheelpants. They add 3-4 oz of weight.

I ran my antenna inside the fuse, and dumped it out at the rear of the fuse. I am going to do a serious range test to check for interference before going up, and will relocate it to the top if needed.


Heres a pic of the tail. Notice the rudder servo, pull pulls, large arms, sealed hingelines, sullivan tailwheel, and the tail wires.

another shot from the bottom.

Cowl cutouts and front view