I forgot to add that the profiles handle the wind better than the UCD.

In retrospect,the plane is less important than just sticking with it,practice,practice,practice with any of the top 5 contenders will get you there. I used to think it was the model itself that would make the difference but now that I can 3-D with several, I know that isn't true.

well i did it looks like ill be learning with the u can do 60 not that i didin take consideration what 3dsky thought i was takin to an old friend that hasnt flown in a while got married havein a baby... kinda thing any way he had a do that he bought not to long ago and isnt going to have the time to put it togeather thinks he would be a little rusty for it also but i bought it from him at a great deal $100 bucks!! [sm=greedy.gif] so i couldnt pass it up i also wanted to bring up how often is more power your friend when learning to 3d does it keep you out of more trouble than it gets you in to reason why i ask is i dont really want to buy another motor in the 120 range i already have 2 and 1 older enya which of course is still runs and none are on a plane but if it would make thing a lot easier for me then i would look at buying a ys110

The Mag 120 will be great in the UCD 60. You can never have too much power, you just can't us it to fly straight and level. Good deal, no one would pass up a Do 60 at $100. Good luck 3Ding.

What a deal,for $100 bucks & a flight pack you can be 3-D'ing. Thats one of the best things I love about this 3-D obsession,you dont have to spend big $$$ on a 40% 'er to get into the act. I used to think that at one point,partly because you read a lot about the giants are so much better at it. Yesterday I flew my Do and X100,it was awesome day,no wind for hours. I did 3 tail touches the first flight with the Do,2 the next, I discovered that with elev-flap mix(up-elev=down flaps), the Do does nice waterfalls. If I never can afford a bigger plane,I will still be very happy with a Do. I noticed one thing yesterday,I dont have that "adrenaline rush" I used to get doing the first tail touches,I used to be pretty pumped up during and even for hours after those flights. Now its getting to be business as usual but I miss that feeling. Like my friend Scott said,do something else daring,lets see now-RH DOD,or inverted harrier DOD,those 2 get me puckered just thinking about it.

Barry where are you,I have you to blame for spending $219 ,I'm telling my wife its all your fault. I had to get the Velox Rev,from your posts it sounds too good to let go by and at the sale price too. I dont even have an engine yet,will just let it age like a fine wine until its time.

Yeah...I get that a lot. "You made me buy......"

Congratulations on the Velox. I think you'll really like the way it flys. Be sure and check the glue joints when you build it. Especially around the fire wall. Mine came loose (no big deal because it can't come apart, just loose) and I had to glue. Also, the wood right where the canopy hooks to the fuse. That has actually broken a couple of times so I put a small balsa reinforcement to secure that a bit. No problems since. Once I got those details done I like the Velox. It flys beautifully. And you don't have to worry so much about speed. It's a slippery little devil. I do back off on the down lines (makes good sense with any plane) but I'll hold it wide open on the flat lines.

There's a thread floating around here somewhere, I'll try to find it and bring it forward.

Just send me the $219 bill. I won't pay it...but it'll make you feel better.

Good luck.

Thanks
Barry

It might make the wife feel better,until she finds out you're not paying it. Oh what the hell,its Christmas,its my present to me!

Damn,my order for the Velox was rejected,have to find out why!? Oh well,another good looking weekend coming up if the forcast holds,Sunday looks best at 50 deg,sunny & 5-10 winds. I need to get my "pucker factor" back,maybe a RH circle down to 5' or inverted harrier. Actually, my Do doesnt like inverted harriers,if I throttle up the slightest bit it wants to go vertical,I can do it with the X100.

I finally got a pic of my U-Can-Do in a hover,working on more with the X100 and a short video too.

We were lucky to have another flying day here in December,didnt do any tail touching,a little too much wind for me, but got down to 4 or 5 ' a few times. Looking at the forcast,a mild week is ahead-more tail touches!

hey guys good to hear about the good weather we have been haveing unusual nice weather here too but havent got to do any flyin in the nice weather this stupid thing called work seems to get in the way but did fly over the weekend but like to froze to death (ya the weather changes kinda fast around here sometimes) it was 40 all weekend and 65 today!
but im putting the the u can do together the ailerons looking down them looked pritty striate so i put them on and turns out if i would have laid them down on some thing flat then one of them would have shown to be twisted (i new better but....) im going to try to attach a pic maybe it will work if you look close you can see but with the aileron in line with the center of the wing tip took a piece of 4 40 rod taped it in line with the center of the wing tip it stuck out past the end of the wing and made the ailerons match the rod to find center and then i looked at the other end of the a-rons next to the fuselage and they are not matching the pic makes it look a little worse but while the wing tip end is still centered i measured from the tip of the a-ron next to the fus. to the bottom of the fuselage and came up with 1and1/8 inch on one side and 1and5/8 on the other! now i was wanting to know what measurement i should be getin and while typing this i was thinking if i center the a-rons at the fus. and them being tapered they would probably be a lot less off so there for how close would they have to be to not be able to notice in flight that they were a little twisted and any suggestions on how to un twist them would be helpful too[img][/img]

You should be able to use a heat gun and iron to re-shrink the covering. Have someone twist the part past where you want and heat out the wrinkles. Hold it till it cools. Are the hinges glued yet?

ya i glued the hinges[:@] but hey what is it they say live and re-learn and another thing if you put a strait edge on them it should touch all the way across right i don't know why not i havent seem Any thing on models that wasnt ant one time strait this being the case one a-ron is off pritty bad and the other one is off a little to. I am still curious what they measure when centered at the fuselage from the bottom of the a-ron to the bottom of the fuselage?

Twist & re-heat the covering,if all else fails,try the good side a little to make them both the same,only problem is this will have to be done from time-time. Get them a close as possible and then fly-it may not be noticable in the air,the Do is not a precision machine anyway,still fun though.

Not sure what you mean but hope this helps……
I would tape something that is the same thickness as the tip aileron and site it to the center of the wing tip (both) then site along the aileron to the other aileron. Remove wing from fuse. Heat and twist, Cool and repeat until straight. The ailerons in you picture look bad but I have been able to fix much worse. You may need to take masking tape (sticky tan stuff) to lift the covering off the cross braces. Place the tape over one pieces and pull straight up fast to pop the covering off the wood. Sometimes you can just wrap the tap around your finger and work small areas at a time. Heat it with the heat gun and use the iron on the outer edges to help move the wrinkels by pushing hard to slide the covering in the direction you need. Use a pin to poke a small hole in each sections that is puffing up. When it looks good tack (cross braces) the covering back down while holding everything straight.

got it all good and straight it wasnt to bad to get it thanks for the tips! one other thing is i was fixing to mount the engine and i think the manual says to get the back plate of the spinner to mesure 5 7/8 from the firewall unless i change the mount to get a thiner one or some thing as far back as i can get it is 6 3/8 ya thats 1/2 an inch and the battery im planing on useing weighs 7 1/2 oz and im mounting a magnum 120 four stroke do you think with out moving it back i will ever be able to get the cg where i want it with out the use of much lead

My UCD 46 has a OS 91 2C and I had to add 4 oz of lead to the tail to get it to 6 inches. I would try to install the engin last and try to get the CG to the aft piont. then use (less than me) lead to fine tune it. You will not have much to work with because the cowl will only go on so far. Try to give your self some adjustment with the CG. I did not like my UCD untill I got the CG back. Now it Rocks. I an not sure i would have had a good maden that far back. The time to fix the ailerons will pay off.

We had a pretty good weekend here in S. Jersey,not many people flying but it was great for the season. The long range forcast looks good for next weekend too,dont know how long this will last but I'm on it. It was calm enough Saturday evening for tail touching,I got 3 in with the Do,still like flying this cheap ***** plane,you cant beat it for price,low pucker & F U N.

I have a UCD on the way. I have a Saito 100 for it. Is this going to be a good match. Any setup tips? I don't have time to read all 128 pages of this thread.

I think I will be using standards and a HS-5625 on rudder.

I had that setup for a while (Saito 100) I liked it a lot until I put the mighty 110 in there. I couldn't believe how much better I liked the plane. To get all the performance out of this plane you shouldn't use any standard servos. At least go to 645 everywhere. Or better yet use the 5625/5645. You'll be glad you did. If you haven't ordered the engine yet, you may think about the 110 or the Saito 125. You'll like the plane even better if that's possible.

Thanks
Barry

I agree w/Barry,you want a little more umph! I used Sa 100 in the .46 Do! (assuming you are going 3-D)The Sa 1.25 is only marginally more than the 100 IMO,this plane will take up to 1.4 2 stroke but that is a bit too heavy,I would go with YS 1.10 if you can afford engine & fuel,otherwise a good 1.00 to 1.2 2 stroke. All I have ever used is Hitec 635 (85 oz @ 6V)Karbonite for this plane and they are awesome,after hundreds of flights,little to no slop. Beef up the landing gear blockes and firewall with tristock then fuel proof inside fuel tank area & all exposed wood.If you want a plane that will harrier all day long(less windy days),add tristock to the wing trailing edges to get double beveled edges for maximun spoileron throw,if you are willing to use spoileron mixing,you can get the .60 Do to be a harrier machine.Use at least 4/40 control rods,2/56 doesnt make it IMO.

I must be in the wrong forum. I am getting the 46 size.

I just brought the 46 thread to the top for you.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_81...tm.htm#5136642

Here's the link

That just happens to be the best thread on RCU. Plenty of people will help you and nice guys.

Ask anything you want...and welcome

Thansk
Barry

hey guy the u can do is going a tad slow but its geting close i was planing on (at least at first) dont have the money to put more in r/c at the moment (because of hellis$$$$) i have a high torque for the rudder but for every thing else i was going to use futaba 3004s what performace do ya think i will get and what are the signs that u get with this plane if they are too weak is it just a mushy feel?