DK,
The channel is only about 1/2" below the motor mount. Granted, the header might have to be bent a little, but I'm thinking the header and can could be made to lay into the channel.

The UCD is now ready to test fly, hopefully tomorrow. The ST 90 has a normal muffler for now. No cowl since I didn't want to cut it up before giving the MCP a chance. No wheel pants, and the tail wheel was replaced with a skid since we fly off of grass. The canopy will be left off for the first few flights just to see how it affects the knife edge tuck once it's installed.

The only real deviation was mounting the rudder servo on the bottom of the fuselage to use a pull-pull on the rudder. The elevator pushrods are 2-56, but the aileron pushrods are 4-40. After reading this thread, the battery and receiver are in the rear of the radio compartment, which put the CG at 5.5 back from the leading edge.

With five Futaba S-131 servos, a S-148 on the throttle, and a five cell 700 mah battery, the dry weight is 7 lbs, 2 oz. Replacing the stock muffler with a MCP just might put the UCD under 7 pounds......which would be great!

Now all that's left to do is stop it from raining tomorrow.

Dave,
for whats its worth. I would change out the 2-56 rods on the elevator to 4-40. On my brothers UCD w/ YS61. I was checking it out after a flight and the rods were bent. And even was only using 1 1/2 for high rates.

I have my high rate set at 3 1/2" w/ 4-40 and I haven't had a bend yet.

For those that want to moose-can their 2-stroke w/o rotating engine, MVVS .91 has a rear exhaust .91:

http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...roducts_id=453

A Perry Pump or Cline Regulator are very well spoken of... They are easily installed and would allow you to place the tank on CG.

Either one would work for you, but I guess I'd lean toward the Perry.

Thanks David, I'm going to work with the ys 63 for a while on a sig se and see how I like the trouble finekyiness and if I dont I'll try the saito 100 with the perry pump on a ucando,

Thanks again, Dennis

for those talking about the os 91fx and the moose can, i'm running the 91fx with the stock muffler with the baffle removed, and i'm turning 11,200 or 11,300 with a 14x6 apc. only had about half a gallon of powermaster 10% through it so far.

Am I being overly dense here??

Do you HAVE to mount the powerplant inverted in this plane??

My buddies and I are thinking of investing in 3 of them for choreographed aerobatics, but I HATE running 4-strokes inverted!!

mt

It was designed for an inverted engine...

Unless you want the entire momo to be sticking out OR leave the cowl off... then inverted is your only choice...


My Saito 100 isn't broken in yet and I can't get the idle down enough... I think the inverted position is drowning the plug... If I can't get it dialed in a bit better, then I'll go to a glow driver to keep the plug hot at lower idle...

Other than that, the Saito 100 starts and runs fantastic inverted... I always burn the last few drops of fuel out after pumping ou thte remaqinder of fuel atthe end of a session... This helps keep the glow plug from sitting in a pool of leftover fuel...

How is this plane at the abrupt stuff. I mean like parachutes, walls, and blenders. It looks born and bread for the slow 3D, but will it handle the "rough stuff"? Also how about a regular snap? It looks like stalling even 1/2 of that wing would take quite the throw???

It'll do a shockingly abrupt wall and parachute. I mix spileron in for walls, and it's unreal. It'll blender so hard my engine will stall, but regular snaps, it really won't do a regular snap very well. Too much wing.

Does anyone know if a 24" servo extension is long enough to reach the rudder and elevator servos. I'll be using Hitec 605's.


Also, this will be my first cowled engine. Isn't it a pain in the butt connecting a glow driver to the engine while using a cowl. Seems like i'd have to reach under the engine and fiddle around trying to find the plug. Comments?

I used 24" extensions which were fine with the futaba's. If the leads are about the same length on the 605's it should also be fine.

Use a remote glow plug if you can. I used the Kavan one which you can see covered in my detailed review in the RC Universe magazine ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/magcover.php )

Thanks for the info admin. I'll look into that Kavan.

Being that I don't actually have the 605's in my posession yet can anyone confirm how long the lead is on the 605? Is it the same as the Futabas?

I have a 605 w/ 24" expert extension on mine.

The 605 has enough power at 4.8volts. Mine will do a knife edge loop. so ai guess it has enough power. I have a total of 6 flights on my UCD.

I mounted my throttle servo, a hs81, external in the channel underneath. The rod to the Saito 100 throttle arm is very short. I have the tank at cg. A long snakey pushrod would have to be used otherwise. Anyone see a problem with this?

I use the Dubro Kwip Klip. I have to peep through the oversized muffler passthrough hole on the cowl to guess if I bring the Kwip Klip onto the glow plug. Getting the glow connector onto the engine is not so bad when compared to getting it off when the engine starts to run. I have to kneel behind the wing, reach forward past the wing under the cowl, grab the battery with index finger & middle finger, press the release w/ my thumb. While doing this, I am on the verge of falling forward and crush the wing, worse yet, plant my face into the prop. I think I need to get myself an extra long Kwip Klip, one of the metallic purple ones...

Get some kind of remote glow plug igniter like I did. I saw one guy at my field who cut the cowl for the glow plug access and it was cumbersome. The remote igniter like the Kavan (from Hobby Lobby ) like I used was easy, safer and looks sharp.

Hey Marc. Is the Kavan the only remote glowplug ignitor on the market? I've never seen other brands before. Not that I have anything against the Kavan, I'm just curious as to weather any other companies like DuBro or great Planes makes something similar.

What about all of you other people on this thread? What kind of setup are you using to light your glowplug?

I used a remote made by Sullivan.

Hey Cabane,
The area you have that servo mounted,... isn't that going to get full of fuel/oil ?? It also appears to cut down on the air flow through the "channel". After a flight on my UCD3D (4-C, OS91 pumper), that channel is full with oil residue.

TOMAPOWA
Yea, I figure it will catch some oil. I've ran many of thesae hs81's with Norvel .061's and they've been solbered on plenty... with no ill effects.
As for cooling, dunno. There's some additional gap around the lower cowl. I'll have to look it over again. Maybe just try it?

I still need to get a battery, check balance and wait for the weather to cooperate.

I am using 605s on mine and the 24" extention is fine.
I also saw the rc universe artical and just picked up the remote glow heater for my bird.

I'm using a Radio South Pro Driver MkII. I cut a hole in the cowl bottom so I could reach in and put it on the plug. It's not the easiest to reach, but I don't like using remote glo connections.

Maybe it's just me, but all the remote glow connections I've tried have resulted in shorter glow plug life for me.

David

Marc,
In your review you said you used 2 washers for right thrust.Was that 2 under both top and bottom on the left side or just 1 under each to get the proper angle?Great review by the way!Thanks,
Steve

Tailspin - good point to clarify...wasn't sure if you could see the 2 washers in the picture. For mine it took 4 washers total of which 2 were under the top and 2 under the bottom. If you use a washer that is thicker or thinner it is possible that you might need more or less PLUS your firewall should be checked to see if any thrust angle is built in to determine if it needs more, less, or zero adjustment to be sure.