I guess you are right. If the wing is already rolling due to aileron input, the stress on the stab would not be that much. I was thinking that if the wing is not rolling, then ailevator input would be trouble.

Does anyone have website url for Cline and associates. Thanks

http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/

Take care!

Thanks David

Hey wher are you guys running your RX antenna
on the UCD3D's ????

Can ya tell i'm getting close to a maiden flight
Look Out !!!!!

Bob

Hey Bob. I ran a piece of antena tube inside the length of the fuse and exited it at the back of the fuse. As you can see the picture was taken when I assembled the plane in January. I have since trimed the antenna tubing flush with the fuse and the antenna just dangles down about 3-4 inches. And NO.....I DIDN'T LEAVE THE ANTENNA WIRE INSIDE THE TAILWHEEL Some people have ask me that before. lol. It was only there to get it out of the way while I was doing other things.

BTW, Here is a picture of my UCD. The only graphics I have on it are the Saito stickers.

Mine, like all my planes, exits out the top of fuselage as soon as it can (of course, not to look ugly or anything). I avoid interference as best I can,... why not! Be careful to ensure that the tip of the antenna does not touch anything metal, like a tail wheel, landing gear, etc... I also seal the ends of my antenna wires with heat shrink tubing (keeps tip from touching anything and also helps keep moisture out). Simple rubber band from the tip of the rudder to wire cinch works great. Also be sure to support the wire inside the plane (again with a cinch) so that it doesn't pull out, possibly ruining the receiver. I included a picture of my UCD (aka X-treme 3D) for reference.

TOMAPOWA - Is that paint on your wheel pants, or is it trim? Looks nice.

Hi coomarlin,
Why did I think you were going to ask that.
Actually, way back in this UCD thread, I posted a Powerpoint slide or two that included the X-treme decals and wheel pant graphics (a few days later I posted the often required Font file). After printing on decal paper (inkjet), I scuffed the monokote lightly with 000 steel wool, applied and then covered with a light spray of fuel proof clearcoat.

You can either search for "X-treme" in the thread or simply start at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...eme#post430239]

I flew my ucd for the first time this last weekend and thought I would share it with the group. I did as most of you, switched to 4-40 linkage and pull-pull on the rudder. I used hitec hs-545's on everthing except the rudder, hs-5945. But the big news was the YS 120FZ . I mounted a 16oz fuel tank at the cg, put a 2000mah nickel metal battery just in front of the elevator servo, and added 1 oz of lead to the tail to get the cg to 6 1/8 inch behind the leading edge.

I normally ck everything twice before take off but this time I didn't and took off with the ailerons backwards. After a few tense minutes I got it landed in one piece and reversed the ailerons to the proper direction.

This is by far the most fun plane I have ever flown. I have a 33% cap with a 3w 100, which is fun but this thing rocks. It torque rolls, waterfalls, does the best blenders i could imagine with a super tight inverted flat spin going right into a torque roll. I found that it doesn't flat spin upright well or harriers are a little shaky but I only have 9 flights on it so far. I was a little worried at first about my engine selection but it is definetly the right one. No fueling problems, easy to start and with the apc 17x6 need I say unlimited vertical acceleration. I know I need to manage the throttle, but it is like flying the cap 232 3d on the realflight sim, You can get away with almost anything. I forgot the name of the guy in the earlier post who originally installed a ys120 in his ucd. he was truly on to something and if I had known I would have bought this plane months ago. All I can say is that I'm thrilled with its performance.

Mark Trent

Can anyone give me some info on the best way to cut a hatch on my UCD to move the battery back? What is the best way to retain the battery once the hatch is cut? I need to move my CG back and I refuse to add weight

Anyone have pictures?

I first located the fuse ribs in the tail of the plane and then cut out the wall on one side of the plane careful not to cut one of the ribs then i used something like 3/16 balsa to build a floor, front and back wall this gave back the strength of the fuse after cutting out the wall, also provided support for the battery to sit and keep it in its place, then i cut and covered a new hatch to fit the hole i made.

You may even be able to remove your servos in the tail, and slide a piece of thick balsa into place, glue it in, and then slide the battery and foam in over that, and lock it in place with either a tie wrap, or a velcro tie wrap. I cut in a hatch too far forward, and need to move my battery back further, so thats what I am going to try. The hatch I did cut in, I didnt replace the wood sheeting. I had two pieces of balsa spanning the fuse for strength, and just monokoted over the open hole. Couldnt tell it was there unless I pointed it out.

Steve

The way I did it, was I put it upside down on the CG machine, set the machine to the CG of choice, mine was 6", I already had the battery removed and I set it on the rear portion of the fuse and just moved it where it needed to be for a CG of 6" and marked the fuse. Then I just cut a hatch, added some scraps to snugly hold the battery in the fuse, added a tongue to my hatch, created some mounts to screw the hatch too, and screwed it down. If you use a sharp exacto and make some clean cuts, you have to look to see that it's even there.

Someone shared an idea of how he dropped his tank to match the carb level... he didn't have pics but said it was straight forward... he was right...

Here's a couple pics of what's in there...

Here's the bottom after the tank has been dropped...

Mark Trent,
That other guy would probably have been me. I firist had a YS120NC, sold that, and put my YS120SC in it, also turning an apc17x6. Battery behind hatck in tail with an additional 4 oz. I tryed an additional 8 ox in tail, flat spins and flight were great, but landings became tricky, and took its toll on the plane. I sold the plane some months ago, I knew I would have crashed it sooner or later, better sell and move on ha ha. I now fly the Aeroworks 80" Extra Profile with a YS140L, an even more fun plane.
DKjens

I guess Ishould have stated above...

I had problems with the engine sagging after about half the tank was used up. Violent maneuvers would cause the engine to lean and quit too. And it leaned and sagged during inverted flight...


The above mod, along with the needle twekaing required because of it seems to have fixed the problem entirely.... saving me the $60 for a Cline just now....

I may still move my tank to cg and add the Cline, but this mod fixes the inherent design flaw of too high a tank in an inverted engine mounting design...

Hey Great Planes!!! Take note...

1) Stronger or better yet carbon fiber gear
2) Beef up the wing/gear former than seevral have had go out... maybe bump it up to a 1/4" part
3) swap positions of thsat cross brace to allow the tank to set on the bottom of the former... not the top... (and move the tank opening in the firewall accordingly)

I'm the one who didn't have pics. I'm glad you were able to follow through. These are nice pic's and exactly what I did except I lowered my tank all the way to the bottom of the fuse and made the hatch flush with the bottom. I used white Ultrakote to cover the hatch. I haven't had any engine problems or flame outs since making this modification (even on violent outside maneuvers). Nice job, Mordib.

Nice job lowering the tank guys.

I'm thinking of trying to cut a hatch using the following method. I need some contructive critizism.

I've attatched a diagram of what I was thinking. I'm was thinking about using epoxy to attatch the small trianglular pices to the corner of the fuse cut out and I intended to use small screws to attach the hatch to the plane. Do you think this would be strong enough to hold the battery in place?

Also, do you think this would even be worth while, or should I just add lead to the tail. I need to get the CG back about 1/2 inch so I'm not sure how much lead that would take. I'd like to keep the weight as low as possible.

The reason I elevated the battery was in order to get a zip tie to go around it.

Comments?

Should wok great if your hatch plate is made of ply... Otherwise the screws MAY pull thru the plate. I suppose you could epoxy 1/32" ply strenghteners to the inside of the hatch corners... but really a hatch that size made of ply wouldn't hurt a thing... Just get ply the same thickness as the fuse sheeting...

Yea, wouldnt try anything less than ply,

Good call. I didn't even think of that. The weight of the battery will produce more stress on the tips of the hatch. How much more does light ply weigh vs balsa? With a lite ply hatch and the mounting rails I don't want to end up adding a lot of wood that will increase the weight to a point that I could just add lead to the tail and forget about a hatch. What do you think?

Or maybe there is a better way to mount the battery inside the fuse and then there would be no stress on the hatch.