Sorry, no pics available. I tried to write my response to be descriptive enough for others to do the same. Trust me when I say it was really easy and once you remove the first piece of plywood plate you'll figure out exactly what you need to do. BTW, even after modifications I used the same tank that came with the kit. As far as weight additions, probably not much at all was added and maybe even some weight loss??? Remember, I took out three pieces of plywood (1 top & 2 sides) from the air/exhaust chamber. I also dremmeled out some of the existing former (you'll see what to do when you open it up). The only additions I made were to use 4 Popsicle sticks (cut to correct length) which I epoxied in to create the new ceiling for the tank. These also replaced the strength (may even add some?) of the cut away former. I added some cut up pipe insulation foam to place around the tank to isolate vibration (this stuff is very, very light). The monokoted balsa hatch cover couldn't weigh much at all. Finally, closing up the old firewall hole was done with 3/16 balsa which was light too.

i have the ys 91 in my ucando but because of the narrow fuse can only get a 12 oz tank inside what brand tank can i get to get a bigger tank to fit i usually use dubro or haynes tanks would like to get a 16 oz tank in it

Looks very simple, yet well engineered. Don't know why GP didn't fashion the plane this way to start with. Its the first Fixed Wing's plane has landed with the motor running Negative G maneuvers must have been starving the motor of fuel.

Bruce,

Just use the stock tank. Its 14 oz and should easily last 15 minutes (or more) depending on your throttle usage. 3 of us in our club are using the stock tank with the YS91 without problem. I haven't heard of anybody on RCUniverse bursting the stock tank with YS engines. I have yet to run the tank dry. You don't fly these at full throttle much.

Chris

Ok will try that i know what you mean on running at low throttle the ys performs awesome thanks

Bob,

I have the Saito 100 mounted inverted on my UCD and it will flood after fueling, but I have not had any problems in the air with performance using CoolPower 30% helicopter fuel. It runs and idles great.

I am also using an APC 15x6. After the first few flights I added two washers under the left side of the engine mount. It helped mine.

The stock tank is fine for a Saito 100. I have been making 12 minute flights and have not ran dry yet.

Eric

I remounted my OS .91 FX upright and now I need to moove my switch. I have white monokote, but I need a piece of sky blue monokote about 1x2 inches. Can anybody mail me a tiny piece of this color?

Thanks
Leonard

saito upright

I think I'm going to go with Fixed Wings Mods. I figue I have everything I need in the garage. Plus it saves $60

knife edge

I have a Saito 100, I have tried an APC 16*4... this was good but bogged the motor down. An APC 15*4 revved too high, and was lacking mid range grunt. An APC 15*6 was by far the best, much improved torque roll and waterfall were the result


quote:
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Originally posted by Webjammin
Just tryin to follow this long thread is making me dizzy

Here's what I've got going on with a UCD3D. I was first going to put a 61FX in it but after asking and reading here on RCU that the 61 will fly it with little power to spare.
I went down to my LHS and picked up a SAITO 100 for some better power, It looks to me that the Saito carb placement won't have a fuel siphon problem.

So now that I have the Saito 100 engine a couple more questions:

1) best if mounted inverted ?

2) should engine thrust angle be set right with a (2) washers under left side of engine mount ?

3) what pitch prop is best for the Saito 100

4) is the stock fuel tank large enough for the engine ?

More questions to follow

Bob

In an attempt to stop the Saito from flooding I fitted a DuBro refueller. This worked fine for 2 weeks, until today. The plunger stuck in, and hence the motor didn't start. I removed the refueller and carried on flying. At home I sprayed the assembly with an aerosol cleaning spray, and after a while the plunger popped back to its normal place.
Any advice most welcome. Was I just unlucky, and a new one will be fine

I'm in the middle of putting together my U CAN DO... I have been very happy with the quality of the kit, however the tailwheel bracket slot in the back of the fuse for the gear bearing was not cut by GP... in a way I'm not to disappointed, it helped me to decide and go with the Sullivan tailwheel....

This brings up my question, what size of the Sullivan tailwheel kit has everyone been using?

I would guess the: LXFV47 Sullivan Tailwheel Bracket 40-60 5-12 lbs?? With a 1 1/4 inche wheel?

On another note, I went with the Saito 100, I don't think I'll be disappointed... I also decided to drop the cash on Cline PCFS regulator, seems like an obvious choice if you are going to mount the Saito inverted. I don't want to hassle with fuel flow problems.

Regards

mg

nosram, I use a DuBro fuel dot on mine and am very pleased. Only 5 bucks and it includes brass tubing and a second clunk for your tank. Unlike the metal fuel dots out there the Dubro caps have a small handle so it is easy to pull the tubing out. Anyone with a tight-fitting metal one knows what I am talking about. The third line refueling system is about as close to fail safe as you can get.

ng7m, I have a large Sig tailwheel unit on my Midwest Extra and I am pleased with its quality. You might want to check it out as it is an actual leaf spring setup and is relatively light weight. I used the stock tailwheel setup on my UCD and am happy with its simplicity and minimum weight.

That the one I went with. I think they classify it as "medium". It works perfectly.

My inverted Saito 100 starts fairly easily and runs the first half of the tank purring quite well... But on the 2nd half? It acts like it's starved for fuel... go inverted and give it full throttle and it just acts like the throtle is at half...

My tank is mounted stock, SOOOO... based on what I've read here I neeed the Cline...

I've got their website and am going to order the Cline regulator...

But are there dealers to be ordered from? I don't mind buying direct, but if my purchase can help a daler too... then I'm all for it... plus I may order some other stuff and it would be nice to put them together on one order.

As far as I know direct is the only way to order. I asked that same question when I ordered a few months back and could not find a single vender other than Cline and Associates.

nosram,

As with anything, opinions vary. For every person (like me) who says he had grief with those miserable fueling valves, a half -dozen guys will pipe up with "I've used those for years with no problems".

I tried two different Dubros, and have watched many modelers struggling with both Dubro and the GP version. All did the same thing as yours; the valve sticks, either open or closed. Personally, I think it is a problem with the tiny O-ring in there.

So what to do on a cowled engine? Either use a YS, which can be direct-fueled without fear of flooding out the carburetor, or do like I had to do on my Horizon 73" CAP/Saito 150 combo; use T-adapters, which routes the fill line outside the cowl where you can get to it (fuel dot) and pinch off the feed line between the T and the carburetor with a hemostat to keep from flooding the carb while filling the tank.

I just used a third line with a second clunk in the tank, and I just routed the third line down thru the cutout at the bottom of the cowl and put a stopper in it. Easy to reach for fill up, and when you see the muffler drool out a little fuel, she's full. Dubro fuel stoppers are a couple cents for 4, and they're plenty to hold pressure for those of you with the cline. Best of all, the feed line has no interruptions from the clunk to the carb.

My UCD had its maiden flight yesterday and it was incredible, I'm still wiping the smile off my face

One question for all you UCD owners.

I could only get 35 deg aileron throw because it is single beveled. The only way to get more was to bevel the trailing edge or leave an insanely large gap, so I'm living with 35 deg but would like more.

What did everyone else do?

Thanks

interesting. To be honest, I never measured the Aileron deflection on my UCD. I just maxed it out. To me i wasn't really concerned with the aileron deflection as much as I was the rudder and elevator deflections. Those ailerons are so big at even at 35 deg they allow for a fast roll rate (at least fast enough to suit me). In order to get more deflection you would need to bevel the trailing edge of the wing like you mentioned.

The elev and rudder will however deflect more than 45% and for 3D that is what I aimed for.Glad you liked the plane

I setup my ailerons at full travel, then I programmed in an Ailevator mix on my radio. The elevator halves now function as mini ailerons in addition to the ailerons. My roll rate increased significantly!

You are correct Coomarlin, the rudder and elevator do travel more than the ailerons. My rudder and elevator both travel 50 degrees but I had to cut the corner off one elevator half since at maximum down it hit the rudder pushrod.

50 degrees down elevator and 70% spoileron (down with down mix) make for incredible waterfalls and KE Spins.

Be careful about breaking the stab by making 2 elevator halves work to twist the tail. If the extra roll rate is your thing, annihilating the wing tip is a safer thing to do.

Whats the diffecrence between high elevator breaking the stab and twisting elevator breaking the stab? I think the forces would be similar in magnitude.