Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

If any Funtana owner out there bashed the rudder / elevator servo location to fit inside the plane along the CG please let me know : "Is it worth the trouble?" and "Where and how did you exit the pull-pull cables" ( no experiance with this set-up on an ARF) also how did you hinge the elevator halves together?.

I am trying to avoid adding extra weight to the nose using the recommended set-up and CG using a Saito 100 for power. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Also pictures..being worth .....would be great!. Thanks- mikel-T

CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

on my Funtana 40, (not sure if you have 40 or 90, I think you're referring to the 40), I just tail mounted everything, using that engine you should not need nose weight....

Having trouble with mine at the reccommended CG, pull up hard, it banks right, someone on here suggested I move the CG back, which i did but have not gotten the chance to test fly it yet, my elevators are hinged with the supplied metal rod which they give you in the kit, if i remember correctly.

mikeboyd

I built my F90 right out of the book, using an OS .91 FX and pitts muffler. Plenty of room to move the battery pack around to change the CG. I had the CG about 1/4" further back than recommended and it flew fine. I think the Saito is pretty light. You should be able to mount the engine tight to the firewall and adjust the engine cowl accordingly. I used a GP engine mount on mine, I didn't like the H9 one that came with it.

The elevators are independent on their own servos, you don't connect them together, you program mix them with your computer radio. I used a 9C, with standard flaperon setup on channels 1 and 6 and the elevators on 2 and 7 using program mix to match the elevator servos for centering, ATV/EPA and everything worked fine. I have seen several on Saito 100's with all the servos in the tail and they flew fine. I did mount my 6 Volt battery pack up on the side of the engine box initially, so the plane balanced as required, with no weight anywhere. I used Futaba 3010's on the elevator and 3305's on the rudder and ailerons. The 3010s are about 90 oz. in. at 6 volts, and very light and worked fine on the elevator. The 3305 has metal gears and is a little heavier and is 125 oz.in. at 6 Volts.
We have guys flying these things at our field with OS pumped Hype .91 helo engines on 30% nitro and JR8411 servos and they rock. I was happy with mine with the standard OS .91 FX and less expensive analog servos.

You may want to get it all together except the rudder servo and check the CG. You can rest the rudder servo above the mounting bay on the horizontal stab, to see how the CG is before you do final mounting. The rudder servo on the tail is so much easier than pull-pull, believe me.

Good luck with your plane, it rocks, flies like a small IMAC bird and 3D's pretty darn good too.

Swat Cop

My Feedback: (11)

If you are using a Saito 100 in the Funtana 90 you would be smart to install a pull pull. Check the HUGE Funtana 90 thread in the ARF forum, there is a lot of info. Guys that didn't mount the rudder servo on the CG with a Saito 100 had to mount their batteries on a stick forward of the firewall inside the cowl to get the plane to balance. According to those that are flying theirs now, the recommended CG at 7 1/8 flys tail heavy. Most people are setting the CG at 6 3/4" from the leading edge for the maiden flights.

I have a YS 110 in mine with Hitec 5645MGs all around except the throttle. I mounted my rudder servo on a pull pull and it balanced at 6 3/4" with the reciever up front and a Fromeco 2400 Mah LiIon mounted just behind the canopy. I should get the maiden flight in on Sunday.

thundervee

I have a F90 w/ saito 1.00 and am using MG645's in the tail and it balanced without adding any kind of weight and I didn't have to put the battery up front either, My battery is mounted almost directly under the wing tube.

TT2

My Feedback: (13)

Seems like there is a huge variance in CG from kit to kit due to the density of wood used. On my F90 / Saito 100 I used a rudder servo on pull-pulls under the canopy and had digital MG minis in the rear for the elevators. Battery was on the wing tube, CG was 7 1/8". Due to it being super light it flew excellent 3D (excellent parachutes, elevators, harriers upright and inverted, TR no problem, great waterfalls). A battery failure killed it. IMAC plane? Nah...but that's not why I bought it.

-Tom

mikeboyd

The weight of the servos in the tail is the key.... 5645's are pretty heavy servos, about 2.25 oz. each. They do put out over 160 oz. in. of torque at 6 volts, but for a plane this size, you really don't need that heavy and powerful servo on the elevators. They would be great for the rudder and ailerons, since both those surfaces are so big and prone to flutter under 3D loading. If you are worried about being tail heavy, then you may want to opt for a couple of 1.5-1.6 oz. servos in the tail for the elevators, like I stated above in this thread, I went the cheap route and used 3010's and 3305's with no problem and no balance problems with the lightweight FX.91 on a bisson muffler. The airplane came out very light and flew extremely well. I can't believe folks are putting ST2300's, FX160's and the like on this airplane, then cry when they blow the tail feathers or wings off. Mine worked great with an APC 14X6 prop. Of course, we are only about 800 feet above sea level here.

This airplane does not need a real big battery pack either. Try a 2100 NiMH 6 Volt (4oz.) AA pack from MPI. I was getting over 5 hard long flights out of mine, before quick charging with a smart Charger. If you quick charge between flights, it will almost be topped off by the time you refuel and discuss the flight for a few minutes with you buds.

Good luck with your plane. My only problem with mine was the inadequate strength of the landing gear on harrier landings, it is soft and short.

FallingWithStyle

A F90 with a Saito 100 will balance just by moving the battery around. You don't need a pull-pull rudder or putting the battery in the nose unless you use heavy (2oz) servos in the tail. Even then try moving the throttle servo up front first. The shorter linkage is better anyway.

Clark

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

That's not what I've heard from many people. I'd assemble the entire plane with everything and install the elevator and rudder servos last. Also install the battery last. Test balance the plane with the servos and battery just sitting in various positions and see where they need to be to get the CG at 6 3/4. I do this with all my planes to avoid having to do the install the tail feather servos twice. When you test balance the plane don't forget to connect the servo extensions which can weigh as much as a couple ounces each.

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

OK No Pull-Pull, shorter linkage is better, and thanks for the insight. I will go the MikeBoyd route and see what happens, BTW Swatcop there are 49 pages in that Funtana 90 thread and there are about that many ways to hook-up this plane. I supposed some are hardcore 3D guys that have bashed this plane into something it is'nt cause some suggestions are way-over-my-head. Swatcop I would really like to hear how your maiden flight went. I'm still sticking with lighter is better and leave the 8411 for the rudder only.

MikeBoyd I already added larger foam tires and put 1/2" rubber bushings between the LG and Fuse for extra height and strength.

Swat Cop

My Feedback: (11)

I will let you know, might even post a video.

jester125

I could use some help on this subject as well.
Im using the Dubro HD 40-90 size pull pull setup and Dubro Super Strength Servo Arms.

1) How do you measure for where the wires exit the fuse?
2) How can you loop the wire in the metal crimp? I can only pass it through once, it seems to tight

Thanks, Chris

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

First mount the servo and servo arm and control horn. Then pull a piece of string/cable from the servo arm hole to the control horn hole along the side and bottom of the fuse. Mark the intersection of those two lines. There it is.


One pass is fine, two passes is just added insurance. I've done the two pass way on two planes and the little 2nd loop never pulls tight. Just crimp it well and it should be fine

jester125

Ok I mounted the servo and control arm but I dont understand how to pull a string/cable along the side and bottom from the hole in the servo arm. I also dont know how you could only use one pass through the crimp (even though the crimp is too small for anything other than one pass))
Could you go a little more into detail on your directions?



Sorry I guess Im a little slow?
Thanks Chris

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I guess I could have explained that better, sorry. Now that your servo is mounted with the control arm, mark the height of the arm straight over to the side of the fuse (mark the outside of fuse). Take a string or piece of cable and pull it from that mark to the control horn hole. Mark a line on the fuse using the cable that's long enough to be in the "ballpark" of where the hole will be in the fuse. Now take the string or cable and stretch it between the control arm hole and the control horn hole (above or below the fuse, depends what plane this is). Mark where that string intersects the line you made on the side of the fuse. You will probably have to hold the string in the air and eye it since you can't really connect it without a hole in the fuse. It works, I've done it a few times now. Cut a slot in the covering or plywood. If you need to put some tubing in the ply to guide the cable it's not a big deal, I've done that.

The crimp will hold with just one pass. Maybe we are not in synch with what we are both saying here. The cable goes through the crimp, then through the turn buckle, back to the crimp and through it again. Then crimp it. It will hold. The picture you show has an extra loop which is nice but not mandatory if you are out of cable. My picture shows that the extra loop is still a little slack after over at least 100 flights.

The picture is a CAP232 25% and has the two loop crimp but I had the extra cable. Also it shows my less than professional guide tube and balsa crammed in the hole and thick CA holding it (for two years now, no problemos).

mikeboyd

With the larger tires, I hope you used the Ultra Lite tires, they are a great weight saving. Hope all works out, anxious to hear how it flies when you get it all done.

thedak

My Feedback: (21)

The Funtana 90 will balance @ 7" with a Saito 100 with all the servos in the tail. Put your battery on a stick up front on the engine box & mount the throttle servo up there too if you are using heavy digitals. Check out the thread " Funtana 90 which engine? " in the 3D forum. I have a ton of pics on this set up.

jester125

Joe, thanks for the tips.

Chris

emnm79

My Feedback: (5)

I'll be working on my F90 later on, I'll snap some pictures of the pull pull for ya

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

I have a YS 1.10FZ on my FT90 using Digital HS-5645MG all around except throttle (using a HS-85 there). I have my CG slightly pass 7-1/2". It flys great in the location for my taste of flying. I started with a 6-3/4" CG and did like it and it would do everything, but didn't feel lose enough for me.

Here is my construction site. Go to the "RC AIRCRAFT PAGE".
http://derrick.myphotoalbum.com

Swat Cop

My Feedback: (11)

DTB, great pics on your site. I like a lot of your ideas. I have the same setup (servos and engine combo).

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

You will like that setup. Tons of power and is still on the light side. Mine is 8.62 lbs.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Here's a couple pics of my pull-pull setup...





I used a carbon rod to determine the straightest shot... The cable on the right side exited just infront of the servo bay, on the rear side of the close fuse side opening and about 1/8" lower than the top of the servo bay...

Here's a pic of that:

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

Great stuff there on your site DTB,awesome shots. I'm a little confused about mounting the servo on the engine box. The Saito throttle linkage lines up with the hole in the box. The best way I can see is to cut a slot into the box at a 90* to that linkage for the servo arm to swing a pushrod that exits firewall on a slight down-line with the throttle arm. The servo will be laying on it's side mounted on 2 plywood rails epoxied to the Box. Using a Ball-Link on the throttle will be my only way of adjusting the travel. What say you guys? This has been a GREAT help so far. Mikel-T

Mikel-t

My Feedback: (12)

Anyone got a picture of their throttle set-up for the Saito 100.? I've done the cowl cuts for the engine being mounting sideways and now need a good idea on how to get a straight run to the throttle arm with a servo on the exterior of the box. Thanks in advance, Mikel-T