Lou I just re did my bission muffler and put an in tank filter on my Fuji 43. It is a little nose heavy should i use stock cg. Or should i put it back a little for so more 3d capability since i am still learning.

One more question, how do you go about mounting the stock spinner to the DL. I can see how i could get the back plate on but there is no clear way to screw the main spinner on since it looks like from the pictures the Dl crankshaft is not threaded for glow.

Elvir, I'd leave it until you get better at 3D. Tail heavy might do 3D better but they don't fly or land worth a darn. Once your skills improve you can gradually move it back to where it really works nice for you. That's what most people I know do.

Cambo, The DL has a threaded hole in the center of the shaft for the spinner bolt. It's a 10mm shaft and you may have to trim the bolt length with a dremel but it works just fine. I get my spinners from Cermark (least expensive out there and really nice) and they mount just the same. You'll have to drill the back plate the same as the prop. You may also have to trim the openings in the spinner to clear that Xoar prop. I had to trim the trailing edge of the opening on mine with a 20" Xoar.

Okay, that is good to here. I have a dremel so shortening bolts is not a problem. I have also widened many spinners before although non were aluminum.

Lou no problems overheating for you I see there in the pic, I just jot back from the field , it is a mile from my house , and what a difference the idle wont go down now I have to unscrew the idle screw compared to before i cleaned the carb , a steady idle witch is nice no playing with the throttle trim. It took me 3 5 min flights to set the carb and now it sounds good, and the bission sounds grate and quiet, I did a quick check and I am spinning a apc 20x8 at 7600 with the muffler . I will take it apart tonight to see if the tygon fuel line is till on the smoke nipple on the muffler to see if it got too hot last time it melted off .

That could be the sign of an air leak. Check your lines for cuts and make sure your carb is seated properly and sealing.

I checked every thing last night , and saw that the idle screw was stopping the throttle from closing all the way so I just unscrewed the idle set screw, I also took out the plug to check it was a nice color tan is the best way to explain it . I know if it is white it is running to lean so the mixture should be ok now . But I noticed the gap was factory set at .030 , manual calls for .016 to .024 so I gaped it to .024 now ,so I will see if there is a difference in 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. the bission muffler sounds grate and quite , the clock was set back this morning here so I think I will relocate the battery now and install the smoke pump today if I get a chance I am excited to see it with smoke.

Sounds like you found your problem! How about some video of that thing flying with smoke buddy!!!

Believe me I want to do the smoke also, today was grate day flying I did a good 20 minute first flight, getting very comfortable with the plane , I am trying to do a knife edge witch I am having a bit of a problem getting to go straight is that normal with the cap ? I read in some instructions that you may need to use computer mixing to do it right. Also on the last flight it was getting dark so I misread the speed of the plane and lost some speed because of our shot runway and bounced the plane and broke the prop tip. So I diced to take a look at the carb again at the field, because I still could not get the engine to cut off with the trim I thought i had it , to my surprise Lou you were right it was a crack in the carb insulator sucking in air . I have bought a spare from tower so a little work and i should have the batteries relocated and the smoke in by next weekend.

question for any one that has used smoke , i found a formula that is for a 2.6 cu in engine i am looking at injection 5.2 oz per minute into the muffler is that calculation correct please let me know .

Glad you found the problem with your engine. IF your plane is coupling towards the belly, or gear, that is normal. What I did was to make a mix that gave the plane slight up elevator when the rudder was applied. This took the coupling out. On the Futaba 7 CAP and 9 CAF it's a P-Mix with the rudder as the master and the elevator as the slave. You can either put it on a switch on have it stay on all of the time. Mine is on a switch. You can also do a second one, on the same switch, to add in slight aileron at the same time to hold it rock solid in the knife edge. Isn't technology wonderful??? Sorry but I can't help you with the smoke thing, never ran any.

That seems a bit high, I have that for my 80cc engines. I would like roughly 4 ounces per minute would be close but the only way to tell is hook it all up and fill the tank with a known amount, get the smoke running and adjust flow for best smoke.

There are too many variables that can make you use less or more smoke oil like where the injector is and how hot it is at that point, what oil you are using, etc...

Thank you both for the info, i could only manage to slow down the Sullivan pump to 10oz in 45 seconds . i will play with it tomorrow again. i am using a jr 7202 radio and on the mix i can slow it down at low throttle stick and at high stick , but when i go to center stick the pump speeds up. I need to play with it some more.

Has anyone had any trouble with the firewall on this airplane?

No one I know of. Bubba may know someone.

I was wondering the same thing. I was looking over the firewall and really saw no need to pin it. For the firewall to come off it would have to rip through plywood at 4 points. This is much different that my glows were all it has to do is break the glue bond.

What do you guys think?

A little extra insurance never hurt anyone! That's a 5 1/2 hp engine you're going to bolt to that thin plywood. My Craftsman chipper/shredder has 5 hp. Your choice.

Lou,
How did you reinforce the engine box?

I added an additional piece of ply to the front and then pinned the original wall. It's now twice as thick as it was.

Trust me, those four point will come loose. I did not pin mine at first and found that after the one and only prop strike I had, that is exactly where the firewall came out. In one respect that was probably what saved the engine from ripping off the whole front end.

Now, during one of the many checkouts I did on this plane, I did find the glue coming loose on the firewall right where those 4 points are and took a needle and injected some epoxy into the joint and made a mental note to pin the thing because I did not have any dowel rod at the time. Problem was I tore the firewall off about 6 flights later (next day after I re-glued the joints)

You definitely want to pin the firewall when using any gas engine on any plane.

Did you tear the firewall off in flight, or on a landing? What engine were you using?

Da50 with a 22x8 PT models prop and did it doing an impromptu harrier landing, I hit the power too late in the landing and off popped the engine.

I've seen engines tear lose a non-pinned firewall just from doing a blender or even a pretty hard wall. These were firewalls that had joints and tri-stock and after time these eventually worked loose

I will pin mine everywhere, I plan to ring it out pretty well with a DL-50

Well the cap is in the barn for some clear pretty blue sky days of crisp winter mornings. For now it's fall float flying season. I've had the Husky hanging forever waiting on floats. Now it's time.

Nice [sm=thumbs_up.gif]