GP Cap 232
#1151
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I just looked at the video of the cap today, I got the take off and landing , my 10y old son did not do such a good gob , tomorrow I will take a better vid I will have my friend take it for me. I though that it would bee more smoke or it is just that I am mixing it myself.
#1152
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
well guys, i am basically done with the plane. All i have left is setting up the throttle servo, routing the antena, and installing the cholk lever. The planes all up weight is 13.5 pounds. This thing is going to be a rocket ship.
#1156
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From: Phoenix,
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Bubba, i checked the manuel and it said 20-30 paces so i think i am good. More range checks will be done at the field. I finally finished the plane. The throttle servo was and still is being PITA. Non the less, i finally got it to sufficiently go from idle to WOT. The servo used to chearp at me throught the entire movement but now it lightly chearps at idle and WOT but no buzzing in the middle. I seem to have lots of throttle servos that do that. Especially when i am using nylon pushrods like this setup were the pushrod is weaving through the plane. 
I have checked everything and i think it is good to go. Can't wait for tomarow.

I have checked everything and i think it is good to go. Can't wait for tomarow.
#1158
Senior Member
hay lou i got the vid up at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw4egzX8050 so thank again for the help lou , the smoke is not the best but i am learning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw4egzX8050
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw4egzX8050
#1159

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Cambo,
Not to sound rude so please do not take it this way. If you are getting the same issues on just about every plane you do as far as the throttle is concerned thgen you may want to consider you throttle setup. You should have sharp curves, you should have no binding and you should be smooth al lthe way through.
Glow engines are more or less tolerable of a not so good setup as the power band is pretty wide, gas engines will suffer to a degree but no being smooth right when you need it because the power band is pretty narrow. It's not uncommon to be at max rpm LONG before the throttle plate is fully open which, depending on you servo arm and throttle stick translation could me you are a full power long before 1/2 stick
Not to sound rude so please do not take it this way. If you are getting the same issues on just about every plane you do as far as the throttle is concerned thgen you may want to consider you throttle setup. You should have sharp curves, you should have no binding and you should be smooth al lthe way through.
Glow engines are more or less tolerable of a not so good setup as the power band is pretty wide, gas engines will suffer to a degree but no being smooth right when you need it because the power band is pretty narrow. It's not uncommon to be at max rpm LONG before the throttle plate is fully open which, depending on you servo arm and throttle stick translation could me you are a full power long before 1/2 stick
#1160
Senior Member
i was thinking mabe the airflow was colling the muffler to much . so i am loosing to much heat from the muffler i an now down to about 2oz per minute and still leaving oil on the bottem of the plane. well at least now the bottem of the plane is clean ,and i am not getting all the rpm out of the motor only 5600 with a apc 20x10 i am saving my last apc 20x8 if we go the the capital zagreb for an air show. if any one has a sugustion please let me know.
#1161

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ORIGINAL: elvir
i was thinking mabe the airflow was colling the muffler to much . so i am loosing to much heat from the muffler i an now down to about 2oz per minute and still leaving oil on the bottem of the plane. well at least now the bottem of the plane is clean ,and i am not getting all the rpm out of the motor only 5600 with a apc 20x10 i am saving my last apc 20x8 if we go the the capital zagreb for an air show. if any one has a sugustion please let me know.
i was thinking mabe the airflow was colling the muffler to much . so i am loosing to much heat from the muffler i an now down to about 2oz per minute and still leaving oil on the bottem of the plane. well at least now the bottem of the plane is clean ,and i am not getting all the rpm out of the motor only 5600 with a apc 20x10 i am saving my last apc 20x8 if we go the the capital zagreb for an air show. if any one has a sugustion please let me know.
It could be where you have the smoke tap. It could be pumping oil right into the engine thus losing power when the smoke is on. The video was good but with all the clouds it was hard to tell exactly how much smoke. A gray color in the smoke could be either too much or too little oil
It takes a good amount of time to get the oil setup just right. You also want to mix it so that when you full are are geeting all you need then as you lower the throttle the poumps gives you less. Remember, when the engine is turning slower you need less oil. If you keep pumping the full amount of oil at 1/2 throttle you could cool the muffler too much and possibly flood the engine with smoke oil
#1164
Senior Member
Nice and long, it was a cloudy day here so it was not grate to see the smoke. i had to pinch the bission injector so i can slow down the flow to 2oz per minute i am going to lower it a bit more to see the difference i am still getting some oil on the botem of the plane but not as much as my first run with a stock injector .it took me a while to figure out the mix with the throttle on my radio as i lower it so dose the flow of oil , i am using a mix of baby oil , diesel , and auto tyranny fluid for now. as soon there is a container coming to Croatia from the states i am picking up a gal or two. with my mix it did not last to long it was a slight breeze and it dissipated pretty quick. also i have not see or heard of a pre heater what is it and how dose it work i understand it heats the oil before it goes in to the muffler . what kind of set up. and how dose it work
#1165
Senior Member
the injector is on the top of the exaust facing down so it is squrting directly down into the exaust flow but not into the exaust port itself.
#1166

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From: Niceville , FL
To make a cheap pre-heater:
Simply take some brass or copper tubing about 12 in long, coil it around your exhaust tube and either braze or JB weld it in place. You then connect the exit from your pump to one end of the tubing, and then connect the other end of the tube to your smoke tap, using some neoprene fuel tubing.
In order to keep the neoprene tubing in place take a 5-10mm length of silicone tubing and put it over the neoprene tube where it overlaps the copper. The silicone ends up acting like a clamp so the neoprene doesn’t slide off the copper.
Let me know if this is too confusing and I'll post a picture.
Once you get one of these in place you can up the smoke rate.
Also, the lower pitch prop and the more RPM you can get the higher rate and the better the smoke will look.
BTW: I didn't have much luck with ATF when I did some experimenting. It seemed that decil fuel alone did pretty well, and baby oil worked even better. You might want to try it without the ATF.
If you get some super-dri, you can thin it with decil for practicing and then run all super-dri if you have a show.
Simply take some brass or copper tubing about 12 in long, coil it around your exhaust tube and either braze or JB weld it in place. You then connect the exit from your pump to one end of the tubing, and then connect the other end of the tube to your smoke tap, using some neoprene fuel tubing.
In order to keep the neoprene tubing in place take a 5-10mm length of silicone tubing and put it over the neoprene tube where it overlaps the copper. The silicone ends up acting like a clamp so the neoprene doesn’t slide off the copper.
Let me know if this is too confusing and I'll post a picture.
Once you get one of these in place you can up the smoke rate.
Also, the lower pitch prop and the more RPM you can get the higher rate and the better the smoke will look.
BTW: I didn't have much luck with ATF when I did some experimenting. It seemed that decil fuel alone did pretty well, and baby oil worked even better. You might want to try it without the ATF.
If you get some super-dri, you can thin it with decil for practicing and then run all super-dri if you have a show.
#1167
Senior Member
Cool i get the idea, but can you send a pic. i cant picture how you mean about the around the exhaust . just wrap it around the muffler it self , did you try i was thing when you told me of a preheater ,could it be also wrapped around the head to get some heat . What size is the tubing are you using, is it 1/8 , her i cannot get any tubing .if my friend goes to Austria or Germany then i will be able to get something similar
#1168
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
ORIGINAL: bubbagates
Cambo,
Not to sound rude so please do not take it this way. If you are getting the same issues on just about every plane you do as far as the throttle is concerned thgen you may want to consider you throttle setup. You should have sharp curves, you should have no binding and you should be smooth al lthe way through.
Glow engines are more or less tolerable of a not so good setup as the power band is pretty wide, gas engines will suffer to a degree but no being smooth right when you need it because the power band is pretty narrow. It's not uncommon to be at max rpm LONG before the throttle plate is fully open which, depending on you servo arm and throttle stick translation could me you are a full power long before 1/2 stick
Cambo,
Not to sound rude so please do not take it this way. If you are getting the same issues on just about every plane you do as far as the throttle is concerned thgen you may want to consider you throttle setup. You should have sharp curves, you should have no binding and you should be smooth al lthe way through.
Glow engines are more or less tolerable of a not so good setup as the power band is pretty wide, gas engines will suffer to a degree but no being smooth right when you need it because the power band is pretty narrow. It's not uncommon to be at max rpm LONG before the throttle plate is fully open which, depending on you servo arm and throttle stick translation could me you are a full power long before 1/2 stick
. I really don't know how GP expects you to set it up using a nylon rod. Anyway, i went to the hardware store a baught some wood so i can mount the servo right behind the firewall wich was suggested my the gasser guys at the field. Should be much better setup than before. I haven't had this happen on all planes, juts planes were the throttle servo was in an obscure place. I usually ended up moving it to fix the problem. Oh, HEKE yes i pinned the firewall. That was the furst thing i did after the engine came in the mail
#1169

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From: Niceville , FL
Here is a picture of what I am talking about. This was done on a B&B muffler that I ended up busting. Not exactly pretty, but you get the idea. I did two preheaters, because on this muffler, it has two smoke taps. I did try run them in series once just to see, and I coulden't tell any difference. I think 8-12 in of tubing is plenty.
#1173
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
Hopefully the big maiden will be tomarow. I changed alot of things in accordence to suggestions at the field. I first opened up the space on the fire wall directly behind the carb. This should help it breath better. Next, i changed the routing of the fuel tubing. I know have the vent looped around the top of the tank. The fill line and carb line were both replace with tygon instead of the GP black stuff i was using. I also shortened the carb line significantley by routing it through a whole in the firewall. The throttle servo was moved up much closer to the engine to create stiffer more precise throttle control. Now, i have read alot of mixed reviews on this. Most people say to not use a metal pushrod and use a nylon wich i was trying to use before. The gasser guys at my field said it is much better to mount the servo up close to the fire wall and use a metal pushrod. Extensive range checks will be performed engine on and off at the field. My only question is i have my spinner ready to go but it is out of balance from me cutting larger wholes for the prop. Should i be balancing it or is it not neccesary?
#1174
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From: Port Orchard WA
#1 I run a 4-40 steel rod for my throttle linkage but have plastic ends on both ends. No Problem.
#2 The last thing you should always do before taking a plane to the field for a maiden is check, and correct, the C.G.
#2 The last thing you should always do before taking a plane to the field for a maiden is check, and correct, the C.G.
#1175
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
That is good to here. I have a 2-56 running with plastic ends. SO much easier than running nyrods all the way into the fuse. I have no binding problems and no servo stalling.
Thanks
Thanks



