Get another cap1.60 a 1.60 is plenty of power for the cap, it is incredable with the DL. Be sure to beef up the firewall. You might also want to look into lanier, tower has some great prices on them lately.

You should be very pleased with this combo, Either plan on getting some longer standoffs and putting the battery in the nose, or use the pull-pull setup. And PLEASE don't use the 3305's.

Best of luck, and enjoy, let us know if you have any questions on what to expect from the build, there are a lot of good people in this forum, with a lot of good information.

For servos I bought S9350's. Look to be a good servo, pricey though. I ordered a GP Giant Stick today for the 1.60. Should be good for just fooling around and being silly, plus I can use it for an advanced trainer to get my skills back up as I haven't flown in over ten ~ twelve years. I sure am impressed with the quality of the ARF's now. They sure have come a long way from what they used to be. There was a time when I wouldn't be caught dead with one. Now you can turn them into a very presentable model with very little work.

That giant stik is a fun plane, I have flown one quite a few times. Great for messing around, and lands like a dream.

Well i need to know why not to use the 3305, I put them in my cap because it was recommended by GP. , I am seeing that they gitter on my ailerons trying to find center sometimes. any other problems with them . What is preferred with out braking the bank. my brother is coming top Croatia Friday and bringing me some supplies and a dozen apc 20x9 props for my Fuji 43..

The 3305's are very inacurate servos. They are fine for most types of flying, and there is no danger using them. I do a lot of precision and heavy 3D flying so I wanted a little more from my servos. I would recommend The hobbico CS-160, tower stock number HCAM0312. They are good servos, I am using 4 in my 1/3 scale, and the hitec counterpart (hs-5645) in my cap 1.60.

Did you mean a 20x8 for your fuji?

Hi guys
I have several flights on my cap and i am so happy with it.
My setup
s3305 servos all around with a hobbico standered on the throttle
2 1400mah hobbico nimh 6v 2/3a batteries running in parallel
2 jr matchobxes/ 1 y harness
AR 6200 reciever
2 EMS heavy duty on/off switches
1 futaba heavy duty on/off on the ignition
futaba 1500mah reciever battery for the ignition
DL 50cc engine
Zoar 22-8 prop
stock hardware
DX-7

I must say that i have been really putting this plane through its paces. The s3305 servos have been very good providing more than enough torque at 6v. To this day, i have never felt a significant difference with digital sevos on airplanes. I can feel a difference on helis. The plane performs great with the DL. I have unlimited power. The other day i had it in a stationary inverted flatspin. Rolls and loops are beautiful. Knife edge is a dream. I am so happy i moved up to 1/4 scale. What a great plane.

Well Tower ended up extending the back order on the Cap 232 another 3 ~ 4 weeks so last week I changed my order to the Wagstaff Extra 300S. It arrived Friday and was damaged in shipping. Tower is sending me out a new one on Monday to replace it. Too bad as it was a good one with almost no wrinkles at all. Sure is sharp looking. UPS sure has been hard on shipmants lately, this was the third damaged shipment I have had in a row.[] Next year I think I'll try an Aeroworks Yak 54. I thought this thread was long untill I read the two threads on the 300S. One is 143 pages ond the other was over 200.

I have both, actually three PW's. I hate to say. You made a mistate. The PW is a good airplane, but the Cap is better. Much better behaved post stall than the PW.

Hi guys I love the 232s I have hanger 9s 80" altia with 0 flights on it got a Moki 2.1 up front,My prob. is i dont realy want to fly it they dont make them any more So I was wondering what you though about the Moki 2.1 in GP 232 or the sukoi??any sugtions would be nice I want ab****e 3d thanx guys

Oh well, that's what happens for me getting impatient.....

232 is a better flier than the Sukhoi. A 2.10 would be great power.

When you build the PW keep it light, turns into a handfull when it gets overweight.

Hey Guys,

My first ever post on this forum- I am returning to the hobby after a 10 year absence (got married, had kids, etc. etc.) and jumped back in by buying the Great Planes Cap 232, with the Fuji 43 engine. I was a pretty accomplished pilot, and flew gassers back then, but some things have really changed! Mostly electronics and batteries, so I wanted to ask you guys a few questions if I could:

!. Does anyone still use NiCads? What types of batteries should I use? What would be the best battery set-up for this plane, both for the receiver, and the Fuji ignition
module?

2. I have ordered Futaba S9155 servos for all flying surfaces, has anyone installed all four servos for the tail feathers in the back of the plane to offset some of the weightof the Fuji?

3. Are people still concerned about the safety of the Futaba FAAST 7C radios? (Just ordered one, before I heard about the controversy).

4. Any other tips regarding setting up the radio for this plane? Should I use a Y harness with dual batteries for the receiver? Can the plane be flown at 4.8 volts safely, or should I go to 6.0 volts?

I need to get back up to speed after so long an absence, any help you guys can offer me is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

scott, you have a lot of questions and you're going to get a lot of different answers but since this thread is bout the Cap I would suggest learning how to use the search option and start reading. You will find a wealth of answers and opinions for all of your questions.

Scott,
Here are my thoughts on your questions, these are just my thoughts, I'm sure everyone has there own take. I included the tower part numbers so you can get a better idea about the items I'm talking about.

!. Does anyone still use NiCads? What types of batteries should I use? What would be the best battery set-up for this plane, both for the receiver, and the Fuji ignition
module?

I am using a 1250mah 3cell lipo (TOWP2120) with a castle regulator/bec (CSEM0005). Just put the switch in between the battery and the regulator, and plug the regulator into the receiver. It will regulate the voltage to a constant 5V. Or I would go with at least a 2000mah 6V battery (HCAM6351), or 4200mah 6V (HCAM6355). The lipo and regulator will come out a little lighter than using the nimh's, but then you will need a lipo charger (GPMM3152) and balancer (GPMM3160) as well.

For the ignition, either a 4.8V 2000mah (HCAM6321) battery or a 4.8V 1400mah (HCAM6306). Either of these should last you all day.

2. I have ordered Futaba S9155 servos for all flying surfaces, has anyone installed all four servos for the tail feathers in the back of the plane to offset some of the weightof the Fuji?

WOW! great choice of servos. You will be very happy with the performance of these. Because you are going with digital servos, you might really consider going with the lipo and regulaor. If you use the 6v 2000mah on the receiver you should recharge every other flight with these bad boys in your plane.

I have all my servos in the tail and I have no issues, a very direct setup.

3. Are people still concerned about the safety of the Futaba FAAST 7C radios? (Just ordered one, before I heard about the controversy).

Issues with the 7c have been taken care of. A great radio, the fastest out right now.

4. Any other tips regarding setting up the radio for this plane? Should I use a Y harness with dual batteries for the receiver? Can the plane be flown at 4.8 volts safely, or should I go to 6.0 volts?

With those servos I would highly recommend 6V that gives you a little overhead. It allows the servos draw down the battery voltage without reseting the rx, but then if you go with the lipo\regulator setup you don't have to worry about voltage draw down.

Good luck and have fun.

I am using dual 6v 1400mah NiMH batteries from hydramax in parallel. When the opertunity comes i am going to upgrade to nice sub-c Nicd but as of now the Hydramax's seem to do find. Invest in a volt checker! I also switched to the ar7000 with the 24" satelite extension. I nixed the mathboxes and am know just going direct into the ar7000 and mixing the rudder and elevator together with the DX-7. BTW, in idle up, i hover between idle and 1/4 throttle. This is with the DL50. LOL

For my Cap I'm using a similar setup to Cambo. Parallel Hydrimax 2000mAH NiMH packs on 6V for the RX. Each pack has it's own MPI HD switch so failure of a switch should not be an immediate issue. A Hobbico Voltwatch under the canopy monitors the RX bus. Before flight, I can turn on each battery individually to check voltage, which includes the load of the RX and servos. A second Voltwatch monitors the 4.8V 1450mAH NiMH ignition battery, which has it's own MPI switch in series with an RCATs relay for remote kill. This is really nice because I know immediately if the kill switch happens to be off at the TX before I start flipping the BCMA 40 gas engine. If I have two green LEDs from the Voltwatches, we're good to go. This system has worked great so far, is simple, and inexpensive for the redundancy offered.

If I were starting over, I would look hard at the A123 batteries. They are Lithium-Iron chemistry, I think, developed by DeWalt for power tools. There is a good thread in the Gas Engines Forum that will tell you most of what you need to know. Looks like the A123s are going to be the most bang for the buck with few of the issues that LiPos have. You can get by without regulators for the most part, and they have great capacity and fast recharge times. Aerobob is using a single A123 pack to power both his ignition and RX, or at least he was when I last checked that thread.

Thanks for all the great info, guys! I really appreciate the ideas and recommendations you've given me! Looks like I'll be making another order with Tower Hobbies tonight! Thanks Again, Scott

Well, my first mid-air today []. The good news is, the plane only hit my right elevator half and basically ripped it off. No damage what so ever to the stab or the rest of the plane. Really suprising. I am going to call hobby services and see if they can send me another elevator half. If not i will just buy the whole stab and elevator set from tower. The parts are going to be tough to put back together concidering that i don't have the other half that ripped off.

Edit: Just got a PM from another RCU member that thinks he might have the part. If there is anyone else that has an extra right elevator half please let me know.

Waited a couple weeks asking around online for the part. Finally called hobbyservices and the guy gave me the entire 60$ tail assembly for free. Shipped out last friday. SWEET. Can't wait to get the DL powered Cap back in the air. What happened to all u GP cap flyers out there.

Sorry Cambo,
i haven't checked this thread in a while. I had all the parts you needed but am glad tower took care of you.

No problem Jugflier.

Can anyone please tell me if a moki 1.80 engine can fit in the cowl without cutting a hole.

hello,

do you think a brillelli 46gt would be a goog engine for that plane ? what all up weight it would be ?

thank's

stephane

well, i have ordered mine from tower..

mm,

I have not figured out a good way to mount my B46 on my GP Cap. The engine mount that I've got from Scott will require 3/4" spacers, which don't seem right. That's why this combo is still sitting on my workbench (I work on two other planes besides the GP Cap).

The B46 is a shaker. I've had it on an Aeroworks Profile Extra and it was powerful. I have since replaced the factory muffler with an Abbell muffler made for the Zenoah G38. I hope that it will be quieter. I would use a DL50 if I did not have my B46 already. My D50 is on a WH Extra and I am very impressed.

I currently am building a Lanier 87" Yak and a Goldberg Wildstik 120. The GP Cap uses Monokote, which is sooooo much nicer than the other two.