When you guys are talking about coupling, is this when you give rudder input and the plane will roll to the opposite direction? I was flying my UCD46 yesterday and noticed that when I input a small amount of rudder the plane would turn in the direction of rudder input. When I would input a large amount of rudder, the nose of the plane would drop and roll in the opposite direction of rudder input. I haven't had much flying time with it and this was the first time I noticed it. I'm new to 3D flying and my CG is probably more forward then you experienced people.
Also, is there any sites that show what the 3D areobatics look like and how to do them? I have Reflex XTR and would like to pratice on the sim.
Thanks,
Maekju

Try http://www.3drc.info/index.htm

Also, with Reflex you have to get hold of models that can do 3D. The default airplanes are not worth it. Have a look at http://www.rc-sim.de and dl the yellow Funtana model. There are some more but this is the one I like best for 3D.
If you get serious with 3D and aerobatics I would recommend the Aerofly Pro simulator. Reflex is a top helicopter sim and very good wing-sim but AFP is beats it in the latter category.


Happy hovering

Thanks bjorngl,
I found the Funtana and I'm going to give it a try. Got to save up a few $$$ to get Aerofly Pro.

Maekju

what batteries do you guys use one your plane

1. Yes I'm very pleased with my OS.91 pumped motor and 15x4w prop. It's quite overpowered but balances straight out with this motor. Because of the power you need to run the motor in carefylly and get it to idle well before flying ( 3-4 tankfuls) and be very careful with the throttle. I never (almost) go above 1/2 throttle except in uplegs and pulling out of hovering and tight spots. You can rip the machine apart if not careful.
Bill Ryan has a review on hiw with a Saito .91 on "Behind the flightline" www.pitsbros.com.

2. Yes I believe so. I have only done it inadvertently, not on purpose
3. Yes, not bad but there is. See Bill Ryan's writings in the above forum and previously on this thread

Further: its standard to break off the landing gear on this machine, you need to do it in order to get some epoxy and pins into the LG block. I did in the 4th flight by harrier landing it in rather tall grass.

Have fun

Björn

I have a Saito 100 in my .40 UCD and I put in a Sullivan 12 OZ. tank. This required a little shaving of the former. I hope its still strong enough. Since I fly only at about 1/3 throttle I can fly for 15 minutes. I have only 4 flights and no real hoovering experience but I really like the its agility and performance.
k.o.

Anyone flying the UCD 46 with a YS 63? Did you have to switch out the tank or is it holding up?

Just curious, why would you want to change out the tank? Other than using a larger capacity one for larger engines. (of course)

Joe

Switch it out with one that can handle the pressure of a YS 63.

Ahhhh, I see. The stock tank looks pretty sturdy to me. I would trust it.

Does anyone know what the best CG is for this plane? I am about to the piont of balancing it and was just wondering which works best for a beginner 3D'er. The instructions quote that the newer models have a wider CG range of 4" to 6" from LE.

What do you guys think?

Later!!!!

Joe

I have had the ys 63 in my plane for about a month now and have not had any tank splits or leaks, after several flights. Still, I make sure the tank is de-pressurized after every flight to avoid problems.

Around 5 1/4" has worked well for me.

I'm on my 3rd UCD46. I love these planes but I have a tendency to get a little wild on occasion and have an incident that results in my carrying the plane home in a paper bag. But they really are great planes and I love to fly them. I have mine set up with a Saito 82 and a CG of 5 5/8" I works great there. My others have had similar CG. From 5 1/4 to 5 3/4. This is one of the easiest landing planes I've ever seen and yet it can do the wildest 3d stuff ever. It's not a perfect plane but it's a darn nice one. And it's very forgiving. The CG is very flexible and anywhere in the 5 1/4 to 6 range really is good enough.
Thanks,
Barry

anyone flown one with an O.s. .70 four stroke. will it have enough power to pull out of a hover??

Yes. Use an APC 14x4w prop and 15% fuel

is that the combo you use??

I have found that using spoilerons helps the harrier/elevator situation a little. There is still some wing rock though - enough in a harrier that I won't bring it much lower than 15 or 20 feet for fear of a wing dropping too much. I am going to try and move the CG back a little more and see what that will do for me.

Part of the problem is that the wing just doesn't want to stall fully which contributes to the wing rock problem. This was written by fiveoboy01. Explain to me just how do you fully STALL the airplane with out CRASHING it. then explain to me how to do that!!!!!!!

Thanks

what is the diference in SPOILERONS and FLAPERONS?? or are they the same??

Spoilerons go up...flaperons go down. And also, on another note, fully stalled maneuvers include harriers, hovers. A stall is when the wing stops flying and another force (motor) keeps the plane in the air.

Thanks!!

flaperons go both ways up elevator they go down . down elevator they go up set the cg at 6 back you can chop the wing tips but it looks like [:'(] then

so do you set them (spoilerons) so when full up elevator is give the spoilerons go up and when down is given they go down?? If this is not correct, please inform me of what is.

thats it

I've tried setting it up on the realflight G2 sim, and when i did a loop, it looped once then went out of control. this was with the extra special profile. do you set them up so they work all the time or just for certain manuevers? I also could not harrier worth a damn. am i doing something wrong? please explain.

the extra special already has them on it don't rely on rf to get a plane setup like you like it it isn't very 3d friendly when your in a harrier add a little right aileron it helps keep the wing still and practice just like hovering