GP GEE BEE
02-23-2007, 09:30 AM
#252
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RE: GP GEE BEE
[quote]ORIGINAL: dragzila
Still building my GB... went for the robostruts, and os 120 w/o pump. looking at the edr 103 glowlite, but haven't deceided yet.
02-25-2007, 06:28 PM
#254
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RE: GP GEE BEE
I ordered a set from tower already, but when they arrived there were parts missing. Sent them back, and waiting for new set. How did you like the performance on yours ?
02-25-2007, 10:14 PM
#255
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RE: GP GEE BEE
more pics from today. I painted the cockpit black....makes the pilot stand out more. Making the belly pan fit was not fun. I had to trim the back of the pan a bit, and a lot of sanding to make it fit properly, also, they didn't put wedge blocks for the blind nuts in the fuse, so you have to drill out the holes in the wing at an angle to get the wing bolts to line up. I thought that was pretty poor. It's a chinese production line slap together. I hope the flight performance is better than the kit quality.
03-03-2007, 04:07 PM
#257
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Best of luck to all of you that are building the Great Planes Gee Bee. Mine was powered with an OS 120 four stroke and had the custom Robart struts. Everything went together well except for problems with fitting the bellypan and reassembling the struts inside the installed wheelpants. The end result was a beautiful and unique RC plane. If you take the time to read the user reviews posted in the last couple years, you'll notice everyone raves about the great takeoff and flying characteristics the plane has. I agree with them all BUT.... be warned about what everyone says pertaining to landing problems encountered. After repairing minor cracks and scratches on cowl and wheelpants along with periodic torn covering due to rough landings, I finally conceded the fact that this was going to be a common occurence. I guess I'm too much of a neat freak to put up with that so I removed the engine and radio equipment and gave the plane to another member of our club. He also struggles with landings. Again, I sincerely wish you good luck but suggest you take pictures to remind yourself how nice looking the plane once was.
03-03-2007, 08:37 PM
#258
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RE: GP GEE BEE
GP GEE BEE w/Robarts OS FS120 non-pump...
It's a nice, pretty plane and I had one about a year back. I had a few flights on it but our field has this rather annoying crosswinds 70% of the time. It's not impossible to land it under these conditions but it isn't all that easy because the Gee Bee has a strong tendency to turn it's nose into the direction of the wind. A bit of rudder/airleron work during landings can fix that up to a certain point but doing that brings the Gee Bee closer to the point of stalling.
I strongly suggest owners of these Gee Bee's to fly it at a nice field, preferably an asphalt strip with stable winds.
Taxiing, taking off and landing in crosswinds I strongly object.
There was this one time I was taxiing around to take off and a strong crosswind turned the Gee Bee towards the side where another plane was and POP POP POP... There went his rudder, victim to the 120's 15 x 8 prop. The rudder on the Gee Bee is quite ineffective at slow, taxiing speeds.
Overall, once you get it into the air it's rather easy going. You'll find that you lose those maiden jitters rather quickly as soon as it's up in the air. It's the landings. Come in too slow, you'll stall and it'll litterally drop, come in too fast, you'll bounce it right back up into the air. It's really weird...
It doesn't want to slow down either. I had to drag it in at about a quarter throttle 5 feet from the ground then just let it slow to land itself as I reduced to an 1/8 to idle.
It's fun but and challenging and fast.
I sold mine to another fellow before it lost it's luster. He crashed it though... Maybe I shoulda kept it...
It's a nice, pretty plane and I had one about a year back. I had a few flights on it but our field has this rather annoying crosswinds 70% of the time. It's not impossible to land it under these conditions but it isn't all that easy because the Gee Bee has a strong tendency to turn it's nose into the direction of the wind. A bit of rudder/airleron work during landings can fix that up to a certain point but doing that brings the Gee Bee closer to the point of stalling.
I strongly suggest owners of these Gee Bee's to fly it at a nice field, preferably an asphalt strip with stable winds.
Taxiing, taking off and landing in crosswinds I strongly object.
There was this one time I was taxiing around to take off and a strong crosswind turned the Gee Bee towards the side where another plane was and POP POP POP... There went his rudder, victim to the 120's 15 x 8 prop. The rudder on the Gee Bee is quite ineffective at slow, taxiing speeds.
Overall, once you get it into the air it's rather easy going. You'll find that you lose those maiden jitters rather quickly as soon as it's up in the air. It's the landings. Come in too slow, you'll stall and it'll litterally drop, come in too fast, you'll bounce it right back up into the air. It's really weird...
It doesn't want to slow down either. I had to drag it in at about a quarter throttle 5 feet from the ground then just let it slow to land itself as I reduced to an 1/8 to idle.
It's fun but and challenging and fast.
I sold mine to another fellow before it lost it's luster. He crashed it though... Maybe I shoulda kept it...
05-05-2007, 10:23 AM
#259
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Well it seems like a challengine aircraft!
Would a 20cc Zenoah gas engine be too little to have any power?
If a 1.20 4-banger is just enough, 20cc gas not enough?
Would a 20cc Zenoah gas engine be too little to have any power?
If a 1.20 4-banger is just enough, 20cc gas not enough?
05-06-2007, 09:30 AM
#260
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RE: GP GEE BEE
I'm not very familiar with gas engines but to give you a better perspective, the OS 1.20(non pump) was actually ok. It didn't have insane vertical power but it was plenty enough to do what it was supposed to, fly scale and do pretty much everything.
If I were to get another one, I would definately go with the YS 1.10 for the light weight and power.
The thing you need to watch out with these Gee Bee's is the weight. I understand there's quite a significant weight increase with gas.
I think that's the only thing you need to watch out for.
I kept mine under 5 kgs, about 11 pounds.
If you check some of the earlier posts, there was a guy running gas, he said it was great but a bit on the heavy side and it sorta dropped out of the air during his approach...
If I were to get another one, I would definately go with the YS 1.10 for the light weight and power.
The thing you need to watch out with these Gee Bee's is the weight. I understand there's quite a significant weight increase with gas.
I think that's the only thing you need to watch out for.
I kept mine under 5 kgs, about 11 pounds.
If you check some of the earlier posts, there was a guy running gas, he said it was great but a bit on the heavy side and it sorta dropped out of the air during his approach...
07-13-2007, 01:14 AM
#262
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Hi Gee Bee owners
I need your help. I bought a gee bee without cowl rings and I'm trying to get one.
There are 2 rings and
Can someone kindly tell me what's the inside/outside diameter is ?
Or where can I buy one or make one ?
Thanks.
I need your help. I bought a gee bee without cowl rings and I'm trying to get one.
There are 2 rings and
Can someone kindly tell me what's the inside/outside diameter is ?
Or where can I buy one or make one ?
Thanks.
08-01-2007, 07:40 PM
#266
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Bax
I took a photocopy of my plywood parts sheet before I assembled the parts.
I can measure it if you like, or maybe try and email you a copy of the sheets....four sheets make up the complete picture if you understand what I mean.
Just not sure if the dimensions would come out right once its been scanned and emailed, but if I supply you the dimensions off of my Gee Bee of the original cowl ring you can use the photocopy as a template to make another if you need it, but I reckon it would be a real tricky job to do unless you know someone with a laser cutting machine.
The cowl ring only comes with the fuselage set off the tower hobbies web site, although I did order a spare cowl from tower and it DID come with two cowl rings which you epoxy together to make one.
....Let me know if you still need help......I'm in the uk
Regards
Mike G
I took a photocopy of my plywood parts sheet before I assembled the parts.
I can measure it if you like, or maybe try and email you a copy of the sheets....four sheets make up the complete picture if you understand what I mean.
Just not sure if the dimensions would come out right once its been scanned and emailed, but if I supply you the dimensions off of my Gee Bee of the original cowl ring you can use the photocopy as a template to make another if you need it, but I reckon it would be a real tricky job to do unless you know someone with a laser cutting machine.
The cowl ring only comes with the fuselage set off the tower hobbies web site, although I did order a spare cowl from tower and it DID come with two cowl rings which you epoxy together to make one.
....Let me know if you still need help......I'm in the uk
Regards
Mike G
08-17-2007, 10:21 PM
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RE: GP GEE BEE
I have a Saito 180 in mine and I like the combination. The perfect engine for this plane will weigh about 2-2.5lbs with muffler to avoid adding nose weight and not be lacking in horse power. Based on the prop recommendations for the Saito 180 and the O.S. 160., the 160 may be a tiny bit more powerful than the 180. I haven't flown a plane that I wished had less power and more lead ballast, so I think the 160 should be a good combination for the Great Planes Gee Bee.
08-18-2007, 05:30 AM
#271
RE: GP GEE BEE
There's nothing too hard about the assembly. the belly pan has given some people fits. other have no problem. Mine was the latter. Keep a watchful eye on it, when you glue it on.
I ditched th dummy radial and used one with a little more detail.
Haven't flown mine, so I can't offer advice there.
I ditched th dummy radial and used one with a little more detail.
Haven't flown mine, so I can't offer advice there.
08-18-2007, 08:10 AM
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RE: GP GEE BEE
TomCrump,
Hi, I noticed that you posted in my "Modified GP Gee Bee pants for Robart struts" thread. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5615263/tm.htm I would advise either flying without the wheel pants until you get used to the Gee Bee, or find a way to stop the wheels from twisting and contacting the inside of the pants on a hard landing, or use the Robart Gee bee struts with telescoping pants. I see that you have a lot of posts and a nice war bird in your avatar so you may be a more capable flyer than I, and won't have any problems.
The GP GB is a pretty nice flyer capable of inside and outside loops, rolls and knife edges. Takeoffs are very simple with little or no right rudder needed because the built in right and down thrust "fixes" that typical problem of taildraggers. I can knife edge to the left at half throttle due to the large fuse side area and the right thrust. However, knife edge flight to the right is noticeably more difficult. I believe the right thrust is the culprit here as it counteracts left rudder input. Wings level, the plane flies nose-heavy meaning that if you trim the elevator for straight and level at half throttle, then put it into a dive at half throttle, as it speeds up, it also will pull up by itself because the trim setting for the slower speed is too much trim for the higher speed dive. You might say it tracks through the air like a trainer instead of a pattern plane. Although it flys nose heavy, don't try to move the C.G. back from the recommended spot. I tried that and found that it will snap-roll inverted, 45 degree nose-down attitude in the blink of an eye. There is no time to react with right rudder. I would recommend plenty of stall tests at high altitude to make sure that you haven't inadvertently set the C.G. too far back. If you find that the stall results in an abrupt snap roll at altitude, then just land it by flying it down to one or two feet altitude at a speed comfortably above stall speed then throttle back and set it down gently using elevator as it slows. A good 10mph headwind is ideal for this plane for landings, but avoid crosswinds because of all that fuse side area.
Hi, I noticed that you posted in my "Modified GP Gee Bee pants for Robart struts" thread. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5615263/tm.htm I would advise either flying without the wheel pants until you get used to the Gee Bee, or find a way to stop the wheels from twisting and contacting the inside of the pants on a hard landing, or use the Robart Gee bee struts with telescoping pants. I see that you have a lot of posts and a nice war bird in your avatar so you may be a more capable flyer than I, and won't have any problems.
The GP GB is a pretty nice flyer capable of inside and outside loops, rolls and knife edges. Takeoffs are very simple with little or no right rudder needed because the built in right and down thrust "fixes" that typical problem of taildraggers. I can knife edge to the left at half throttle due to the large fuse side area and the right thrust. However, knife edge flight to the right is noticeably more difficult. I believe the right thrust is the culprit here as it counteracts left rudder input. Wings level, the plane flies nose-heavy meaning that if you trim the elevator for straight and level at half throttle, then put it into a dive at half throttle, as it speeds up, it also will pull up by itself because the trim setting for the slower speed is too much trim for the higher speed dive. You might say it tracks through the air like a trainer instead of a pattern plane. Although it flys nose heavy, don't try to move the C.G. back from the recommended spot. I tried that and found that it will snap-roll inverted, 45 degree nose-down attitude in the blink of an eye. There is no time to react with right rudder. I would recommend plenty of stall tests at high altitude to make sure that you haven't inadvertently set the C.G. too far back. If you find that the stall results in an abrupt snap roll at altitude, then just land it by flying it down to one or two feet altitude at a speed comfortably above stall speed then throttle back and set it down gently using elevator as it slows. A good 10mph headwind is ideal for this plane for landings, but avoid crosswinds because of all that fuse side area.
08-18-2007, 06:40 PM
#273
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Guys
I'm looking for some advise.
My Gee Bee is nearing completion. I am using an os 1.20 pumped with Robart Struts and 3 3/4" Robart Diamond tread tyres. Originally fitted 4" Robart tyres but found the tyres were warped sufficiently to cause the tyre to drag on the fork brace when rotating.......not something I wanted to happen when it rolls out. Also have fitted JR 811 digital servos all round except for the throttle servo which is a JR511 non digital servo. Have also fitted Dubro hinges all round.
My dillema at the moment.....
I am determined not to drill any holes in the fuselage if I can help it, so am looking to fit a JR on/off switch, Dubro fuel valve, JR charging point and I also have an on board glow unit, all of which I am looking to fit on the dummy radial as I reckon here they will be less visable as they are all relatively small and have black faces so should 'disappear' nicely when installed into the dummy radial.
Basically this means all fueling and charging can be done through the front, the 'led' for the on board glow will be visable when starting the engine and the on/off switch will not be sticking out of the fabulous fuselage.
Not sure if anyone else has tried this approach...the dummy radial cetainly seems thick enough to take the very little added weight these small items will add and I think it will make the whole installation a lot more tidy.
I have considered the risk of fuel spray inside the cowling area and don't think it will be an issue for the wiring, and there is more than enough room to fit it all in.
I am maybe a little concerned about the vibration and how it may effect the on/off switch.
I am still in two minds whether or not to even fly this aircraft.....I enjoy building models to a high standard but am still relatively inexperienced as an aero modeller....can fly a trainer no sweat, and have flown helicopters reasonably well BUT, I don't want to see this Gee Bee get trashed trying to land it succesfully, even though I can fly the Real Flight Gee Bee fine with no problems. My next model I have bought is a Hangar 9 P47 Thunderbolt 60 as I was going to fly this to get some practice in for the Gee Bee.
I intend to fit a master airscrew 18x6 prop so as to push enough air past the cowling and back down the fuselage. I am a pilot by trade and am happy with all the aerodynamic aspects of the larger prop and the aero braking at low rpm it will cause etc etc, but any advice to any of this will be greatly recieved.
Also, does anyone know a way to attach some kind of cable to the neddle valve so that I can adjust the mixture if needed......I don't want to drill any holes in the cowling either.
Hope I haven't rambled too much
Thanks
Mike G
I'm looking for some advise.
My Gee Bee is nearing completion. I am using an os 1.20 pumped with Robart Struts and 3 3/4" Robart Diamond tread tyres. Originally fitted 4" Robart tyres but found the tyres were warped sufficiently to cause the tyre to drag on the fork brace when rotating.......not something I wanted to happen when it rolls out. Also have fitted JR 811 digital servos all round except for the throttle servo which is a JR511 non digital servo. Have also fitted Dubro hinges all round.
My dillema at the moment.....
I am determined not to drill any holes in the fuselage if I can help it, so am looking to fit a JR on/off switch, Dubro fuel valve, JR charging point and I also have an on board glow unit, all of which I am looking to fit on the dummy radial as I reckon here they will be less visable as they are all relatively small and have black faces so should 'disappear' nicely when installed into the dummy radial.
Basically this means all fueling and charging can be done through the front, the 'led' for the on board glow will be visable when starting the engine and the on/off switch will not be sticking out of the fabulous fuselage.
Not sure if anyone else has tried this approach...the dummy radial cetainly seems thick enough to take the very little added weight these small items will add and I think it will make the whole installation a lot more tidy.
I have considered the risk of fuel spray inside the cowling area and don't think it will be an issue for the wiring, and there is more than enough room to fit it all in.
I am maybe a little concerned about the vibration and how it may effect the on/off switch.
I am still in two minds whether or not to even fly this aircraft.....I enjoy building models to a high standard but am still relatively inexperienced as an aero modeller....can fly a trainer no sweat, and have flown helicopters reasonably well BUT, I don't want to see this Gee Bee get trashed trying to land it succesfully, even though I can fly the Real Flight Gee Bee fine with no problems. My next model I have bought is a Hangar 9 P47 Thunderbolt 60 as I was going to fly this to get some practice in for the Gee Bee.
I intend to fit a master airscrew 18x6 prop so as to push enough air past the cowling and back down the fuselage. I am a pilot by trade and am happy with all the aerodynamic aspects of the larger prop and the aero braking at low rpm it will cause etc etc, but any advice to any of this will be greatly recieved.
Also, does anyone know a way to attach some kind of cable to the neddle valve so that I can adjust the mixture if needed......I don't want to drill any holes in the cowling either.
Hope I haven't rambled too much
Thanks
Mike G
08-19-2007, 05:46 AM
#274
RE: GP GEE BEE
Craig, Thanks for your advice. No matter what our experience level, we all have things to learn.
Mike, Being a scale builder, I understand your desire to keep things "clean", but I would advise you to also make things practical. Hard to reach on/off switches and fuelers make our models less desirable to take to the field.
On my Gee Bee, I mounted the RX switch/charge jack, on the bottom of the fuselage, behind the wing. It's not easily visible, but is accesable. My fuel port is located behind the cowl, mounted on the bottom of fuselage, making it nearly invisable, too. I painted both, to make them blend in, even more.
Just some ideas for you to think about.
Mike, Being a scale builder, I understand your desire to keep things "clean", but I would advise you to also make things practical. Hard to reach on/off switches and fuelers make our models less desirable to take to the field.
On my Gee Bee, I mounted the RX switch/charge jack, on the bottom of the fuselage, behind the wing. It's not easily visible, but is accesable. My fuel port is located behind the cowl, mounted on the bottom of fuselage, making it nearly invisable, too. I painted both, to make them blend in, even more.
Just some ideas for you to think about.
08-20-2007, 10:40 PM
#275
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Mike,
I would avoid mounting things to the cowl for maintenance reasons. You'll have to detach those things every time you take the cowl off. The most clever mounting location that I've seen is tucked into the space between the fuse an cowl. You might also consider a maintenance hatch on the fuse. I've seen many scale modelers do that. The dummy radial is only styrene plastic. It would probably crack around the stuff mounted on it.
I've flown with 15x12, 17x8 and 18x6 props. The 15" prop had plenty of pull, so I wouldn't be concerned about smaller props on the Gee Bee. I'd recommend a prop in the mid-range of the possible props for your engine for a good balance between speed and braking action. I've flown the Real flight Gee Bee and thought that is is pretty accurate. Practice a bunch of landings and you should be well prepared to fly the real GP Gee Bee. My Saito 180 has a collet with grub screw on the needle valve end that I fastened a thin, flexible piece of piano wire into. The piano wire is then threaded through a hole drilled in the firewall and fuse an inch from the corner were they meet. It then exists from the gap between the fuse and cowl at about a 45 degree aft angle.
I would avoid mounting things to the cowl for maintenance reasons. You'll have to detach those things every time you take the cowl off. The most clever mounting location that I've seen is tucked into the space between the fuse an cowl. You might also consider a maintenance hatch on the fuse. I've seen many scale modelers do that. The dummy radial is only styrene plastic. It would probably crack around the stuff mounted on it.
I've flown with 15x12, 17x8 and 18x6 props. The 15" prop had plenty of pull, so I wouldn't be concerned about smaller props on the Gee Bee. I'd recommend a prop in the mid-range of the possible props for your engine for a good balance between speed and braking action. I've flown the Real flight Gee Bee and thought that is is pretty accurate. Practice a bunch of landings and you should be well prepared to fly the real GP Gee Bee. My Saito 180 has a collet with grub screw on the needle valve end that I fastened a thin, flexible piece of piano wire into. The piano wire is then threaded through a hole drilled in the firewall and fuse an inch from the corner were they meet. It then exists from the gap between the fuse and cowl at about a 45 degree aft angle.