Overall I am very impressed with this plane, however, I am concerned because my horizontal stab. is not a tight fight. As a matter of fact it is a loose fit. There is about a degree or two of play in it after I dry fit it up. I haven't looked closely at the instructions yet, but I did read that it was supposed to be a tight fit. "Course I also read some things about the wheel pants/axle that weren't right either.

I am impressed with the wheel pants because they seem very sturdy but not too sure about the part that says to attach the cover with screws. I don't see the screws lasting very long. Will probably just epoxy mine on once I am sure everything is set up just right. Problem with that is once they are on thats it, they won't be coming off again.

The wing construction went real well, everything fit exactly as it was supposed to. I got to say though, they just about forgot to include the string for pulling the servo wires through. I broke both ends free and discovered that there wasn't enough slack to pull out of the wing to tie on the servo wire. I had to tie a string onto the string and then attach the servo lead and pull it through. The wing is done though and came out excellent.

I have been trying to figure out just what the base color of this plane is. Thought it was white but then I thought it was pearl white. Oh well, sure is purty though. Now if I can just figure out the stabilizer fix......................

I've been messing w/ my helis this weekend, so I haven't got much done on the Cap. I was wondering, has anyone used Dean Connectors before? I'm going to try them on the aileron extensions. I'm a little worried b/ they are soldered to these gold plated pins. There is nothing crimped over them, only some heat shrink.

Chip told me the 1.25 airwild servo arms should fit under the elevator.

Going Vert, there is no big deal to soldering to gold plated connectors but to insure a good connection, apply solder to the connector and then remove it. Do this a couple of times. This is to ensure then you get a good intermetallic bond to the gold. After you do this, then you can solder your wires to the connectors. One thing though, I would advise you to apply heat shrink to each of the individual wires before soldering them and then shrink it down afterwards. This will ensure that each is insulated from the other. You can obtain heat shrink in appropriate sizes. If your local hobby shop doesn't have it a reputable electronics supply house will. You know Murphy's law..........
Hope I have been of some assistance.

Use some GOOP to put the wheel covers on, should hold fine but let you remove the covers if need be, All i have left to do to mine is mount the elevator servos and motor and install the RX switch. Weathers crappy here in eastern NC right now but supposed to clear up end of the week, should be ready to fly when it does.

stay warm
zonk

Zonk,

Did you CA the elevator or use Epoxy? The manual says CA. I've never CA'd an elevator in, but I might try it this time because the fit is so tight and there is so much surface area.

csteve - I see you have a large gap around the elevator... Don't know why. I assume your using epoxy. Thanks for the info on the deals connectors. I did use heat shrink around each lead.

One more question, are you guys going to increase the size of the fuel tank? I just bought a Dubro 20oz tank. The Saito 1.8 really sucks it down, so I wanted a little more juice.

I CAed mine, it was tight fit but there was enough room to wick in some med. CA top/bottom side/side, Tack it first , make sure of the position, then go slow and watch out for it running from one side to the other and down the elevator stab --ask me how i know this--- (HINT: 15% nitro is a good CA debonder but takes a little rubbing to work properly). It ain't going anywhere. Just make sure its where you want it, cause there isn't any chance of repositioning it with CA, I think I measured mine a half dozen times after i tacked it just to make sure.

I am just using the stock tank, it looks to be around 16-17 ozs, with the OS 1.60 the way I will fly, i will have enough for 18-20 minites but from others i have heard the the Saito is a thirsty engine. I am mounting my tank over the wing and there is plenty of room for a 20 dubro for that 4 stroker

zonk

Anyone figure out the distance from the firewall to the spinner or front of the cowl.
I didn't see any mention in the instructions.

Yeah, Goin Vert, I did use Epoxy on the Stab/Elev. I had good alignment just a sloppy fit. I used CA on a Funtana one time and it broke loose, but then again, there wasn't nearly the amount of contact between the two parts as there is in this case. (or at least should be) I got everything lined up and put it together with some 30 minute Epoxy so I hope everything works out.

Zonk, thanks for the tip on the wheel pants. I will be trying that one!

Tell ya what guys, overall, I am very impressed with this model! It's the kittens britches so to speak! Well, time to go hit it again.

Ok, found a couple of flaws. the servo bay for the elevators are 5/16 inch to long in my plane. I am using Hitec 5925s and the cutout is to long. Fixed it in about two minites by making some ply spacers but all the rest of the servo cutouts in the wing and for the rudder are correct. Anybody else seen this on thiers? Also noticing the edges of the covering are not ironed down tight, especially the blue on the fuse at the aft end where the stab and rudder mount, the edge of the covering lifted right up when I ran my finger across it.
Not finding fault cause its no big deal to go over the covering but if Chip is following the thread he needs to know.

zonk

Yep - I have the same issue w/ the servo bay for the elevators. Also, the tray the rudder sits in was too big. I had to trim it down to fit into the two notches in the fuse. I also found a couple film laps that were in the wrong direction. All this stuff is no big deal. Takes about 5 minutes to fix everything. This plane is still top notch and A+ quality.

Just got this from Don at Planes Plus. Its the updated manual for the CAPX. Its got color pictures for those of us that don't take the time to actually READ directions.

[link]http://www.chiphyde.com/manuals/CAPX.pdf[/link]


zonk

Well Guys, with the exception of the engine install my plane is done. I had an issue with mine, and the issue turned out to be stupidity on my part. The wing is an extremely tight fit and once fully assembled it is difficult to install. I thought it didn't fit but after a couple of phone calls to planes plus and Chip, I realized the error was on my end. I had been trying to assemble the wing and fuse together on the building bench and couldn't get them to mate together for nothing. (My bench is on the tall side) Once I set the fuse down on the floor so I could get to it from above, the parts did fit together but as I said it is a VERY snug fit. The leading edge must go in at an angle from above and then, on mine anyway, I needed to work it down to the wing saddle. After a few flights it should loosen up just a little and then everything will be just right.

As to the engine, after a bit of discussion with Chip, I have decided to dump the idea of putting the gas engine on mine. If you will notice in the owners manual that planes plus emailed us, that is a Saito 1.80 in the pics. Chip also swears the OS 1.60 is an awsome engine for it as well. If I had to guess I would say that I was being "nudged" in that direction. Now I just have to figure out which engine I want to go to the poor house for. I'm beginning to believe I am never going to find a plane for this gas engine I have (Roto 35).

I will say this, you will never deal with a nicer bunch of people then both the people at planes plus and Chip himself, Prompt response to questions and phone calls and a very positive attitude. I was impressed and I don't impress easily.

Funny, I had that same problem. In fact, I almost started to sand the wing down to fit, until I realized you cannot "slide" the wing onto the fuse - you need to drop it onto the fuse from the top. It is a very tight fit. I went with the Saito 1.80 over the OS 1.6 b/ I like the torque of the 4 stroke. I also think I'm going to get a fuel regulator - NOT a pump (www.ironbaymodelcompany.com). I'm getting mixed reviews over the Perry Pump (VP-20). I want the regulator b/ I'm going to bring the tank back over the CG.

I'm also going to scrap the Carbon Fiber push rods - I'm going w/ Hanger 9 titanium rods. They are easier to deal with.

HI All,
I'm ordering from Planes Plus soon,
so for the engine choice :

I have YS 140DZ, OS 1.60 and Taurus 50 cc.
Which one should I put in to the CAP-X ?

Thx a lot in advance n
Brg,
NICK

I think I would stay away from the Taurus. Either of the other two should be fine.

Ya - I think the 50cc is way to much for this plane. I know Chip says it'll handle it, but it's overboard (in my opinion). The Saito 1.8 or OS 1.6 will make this a rocket already. The YS 1.4DZ is probably stronger than the Saito 1.8 and not that much heavier. I'd go w/ the YS. You are going to love this plane. I'm just waiting for my 5945 to arrive to finish everything up.

I am installing a Saito 180 on my Cap-x, Instead of sideways I am installing it inverted, is anyone else doing this? Reduces the amount of cutting on the cowl.

i dont think you will have to cut the cowl for the 1.80. if you down load the updated manual it shows a setup with the big saito.
go back a few post and you wil see the link

FYI--- From the firewall to the end of the prop hub 5-1/2 inches works for my OS 1.60
it appears that anything from 5-1/4 to 6 inches will work OK




zonk

Got mine yesterday.

Cowl was busted. Anyone else have this? It appears the way it sits on the box that any pressure from stacking items will push directly on the cowl. The box did mot appear to have been abused beyond normal UPS handling. No biggie, I called and have another on the way.

Construction is impressive! Very light.

The cut vinyl graphics are awesome. Any one else having thoughts of going around them with clear nail polish (or equivalent) to keep all the little vinyl bit on?

I plan on putting on a Moki 180 and using Hitec 5625's on all the surfaces.

I have a Sig Cap and we were able to sit the CapX next to it. Overall, the CapX is just a little bigger all the way around. The rudder is quite a bit bigger, the ailerons go about 1-1/2" closer to the wing root, and the elevators look about the same, but are more scale shaped near the fuse.

Richard
Tomball, TX

Going vert, let me know how you make out with the Iron Bay Regulator. I have one I tried in my DP Edge w/ Moki 2.10 with terrible results. The engine would surge badly at idle and bog when transitioning. No air leaks and tried adjusting the needle every way I could think of. I moved the fuel tank back up to the firewall, took out the IB Reg and the engine runs GREAT! The plane takes off nose heavy and lands nose light have to retrim a few times during flight. I would be interested to know if all Iron Bay Regualtors suck or if I just got a bad one. I am thinking to trying a Kline pump next.

Bike,

I think I read one of your threads about the IB regulator. I'm a little worried about this regulator, but I'm buying a used one for $20. No big deal if it doesn't work.

Have you tried this VP-30 Regulating pump??

I am sure they must work in some application just not in mine. Hopefully it will be ok with your Saito.

mine is finished and going in the air in the morning,
My c/g came out to 4-1/2 inches at the tips, with a 2700ma five cell NIMH pack mounted underneath the top plate of the motor mount box, gonna take 8 oz to move up close to the 3 inch recomended point.

anybody else weighed and check balance yet????

Will report

Zonk

Zonk,

What servos are you running in the tail? I might switch to 5975s (109oz @ 1.76oz) - they are lighter than 5945s.

Did you mount the battery under the tank up front, or right behind the firewall? What motor are you running and did you mount it all the way on the end of the mount?

I'm running the lighter 2200lipo so I could have an even bigger balance problem.

Good luck tomorrow. Tells us how it goes.

Drew