Vectorflight Edge 540 build
#1026

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From: Lakewood,
CO
Aaron - Good cure for your inversion is an eyerectomy. Thats where they cut the nerve that runs from you eyes to your bunghole so you don't have such a fecal outlook.
Harc
Harc
#1028

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From: El Reno,
OK
Aaron - Good cure for your inversion is an eyerectomy. Thats where they cut the nerve that runs from you eyes to your bunghole so you don't have such a fecal outlook.
Harc
Harc
Got video of the Edge540 tonight. I'll post a link as soon as Mugenkidd sends it to me. Was one hell-of-a day to fly here. Zero wind and outstanding high cloud formations to judge speed by.
#1029
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From: Manassas,
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Someone beat me to a video!!! ha ha.. Kurt is that you flying the rotor? That spit sure looks pretty, what kit is that?
I should have one next week if i can get to the field. Supposed to go camping / fishing with my brother at the river.. Gonna catch me big bubba...
I should have one next week if i can get to the field. Supposed to go camping / fishing with my brother at the river.. Gonna catch me big bubba...
#1030

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From: El Reno,
OK
Not me on the heli. I can fly them on G3 or Reflex,, but not in the real world.
But "Joe" the guy flying the copter in the pic did the lowest inverted high speed pass I've seen in a long time tonight. He was flying a .40size Arresti.
My old Spit is a CMP.,or GSP as some know it.
But "Joe" the guy flying the copter in the pic did the lowest inverted high speed pass I've seen in a long time tonight. He was flying a .40size Arresti.My old Spit is a CMP.,or GSP as some know it.
#1031

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From: El Reno,
OK
A friend took some video yesterday at the field. He is sending it to me in three parts.
Here is the takeoff and a few rolls and loops.
(Right Click and Save Target as
"Desktop,,,for best viewing."
[link=http://members.cox.net/kustomcomputers/MOV00943.MPG]VF Edge540 Video[/link]
Here is the takeoff and a few rolls and loops.
(Right Click and Save Target as
"Desktop,,,for best viewing."[link=http://members.cox.net/kustomcomputers/MOV00943.MPG]VF Edge540 Video[/link]
#1033
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From: Anytown,
CA
That was a perfect 3 point landing Kurt!
That strip looks really short though! I would overshoot on that with no grass.
That first video is awesome. Man, that engine really pulls it like a bat out of hell, what engine/prop combo are you using again? It's definately got more instant thrust than my 91 FX.
Thanks for the videos, lets see some more![8D]
That strip looks really short though! I would overshoot on that with no grass.That first video is awesome. Man, that engine really pulls it like a bat out of hell, what engine/prop combo are you using again? It's definately got more instant thrust than my 91 FX.
Thanks for the videos, lets see some more![8D]
#1034

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From: El Reno,
OK
That strip looks really short though!
Plus I was taking off from the middle of the runway like I always do with some wind.
Just not use to flying without at least a little wind. Guess I could have used my air brakes (programmed into ailerons). But I will try and get more video. I have a vid of my CMP Spitfire taken yesterday too if you wanna see it. I overshoot the final with it as well.

what engine/prop combo are you using again?
It's a Saito 100 with a 15x6 APC.
#1035
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From: Manassas,
VA
Kurt: Yeah i know how you feel about over shooting the landings.. The days where there is no wind i always mis-judge how fast the plane is comming in. Until its near the ground.. The videos seem to be very choppy on my computer. Im thinking its windows media player. Dang microsoft...
Saito 100 and the 15x6 is just an awsome combo for this plane. 3/4 throttle the plane definatlly moves with a purpose.
When i flew my plane i used low rates and ive yet to crank them up. The elevator is very sensitive ill tell you that.. My highrate would probally snap it instantly. Perfect for those crazy spins i like to get myself into..
Kinda off topic I did a lot a research about the 12v sealed batterys for the flight boxes. What i think what happened during my pretty long break from flying my field battery just got discharged a little to much. Which lead acids dont like at all. Everybody seems to use the "Battery Tender JR" from deltron which charges it and monitors the voltage to keep it peak without over charging. I picked one up at pep-boys for my new battery. You should check it out for your charging needs.
Saito 100 and the 15x6 is just an awsome combo for this plane. 3/4 throttle the plane definatlly moves with a purpose.
When i flew my plane i used low rates and ive yet to crank them up. The elevator is very sensitive ill tell you that.. My highrate would probally snap it instantly. Perfect for those crazy spins i like to get myself into..
Kinda off topic I did a lot a research about the 12v sealed batterys for the flight boxes. What i think what happened during my pretty long break from flying my field battery just got discharged a little to much. Which lead acids dont like at all. Everybody seems to use the "Battery Tender JR" from deltron which charges it and monitors the voltage to keep it peak without over charging. I picked one up at pep-boys for my new battery. You should check it out for your charging needs.
#1037
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From: Anytown,
CA
Yeah! Thats a Spitfire! Very nice![8D]
I get the choppy motion with Windows Media Files also, Mpegs run a lot better on my computer for some reason. Thanks for the videos Kurt.
I get the choppy motion with Windows Media Files also, Mpegs run a lot better on my computer for some reason. Thanks for the videos Kurt.
#1038

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From: Oak Harbor, WA
Is that the WM Spitfire? I was looking at that one to possibly buy it soon. Since I lost my Chipmunk last weekend I need something to replace it. The WM Spit takes seven servos, have seven from my Chippy.
Back to work on the Edge... now that I'm working again it may take me a couple of more days. [:-]
Back to work on the Edge... now that I'm working again it may take me a couple of more days. [:-]
#1040
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From: Manassas,
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Sturtz said the spitfire is CMP or GSP (same company).
Looks like the weather is going to be looking good this sunday.. I gotta really wring this baby out!!!!
Looks like the weather is going to be looking good this sunday.. I gotta really wring this baby out!!!!
#1041

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From: Oak Harbor, WA
I have been working on the wing joiner. Got it to fit in the wing, what I thought was good. Figured I would test fit it on the fuse before I glue it all down, see how it fits and looks.
Put the two wings on with the joiner in the fuse and there is a gap on both sides of the fuse where the joiner goes into the wing. [:@] I was expecting a gap at the rear where most have put the wing bolt to close it off but that area is touching. It's also touching at the wing tip, so it looks like it's bowed in the middle. Did I forget something or is there another way to fix this.
I measured the gap, it's 1/32 on the top and 3/32 on the bottom of both wings.
Hints, clues???
I was thinking of trimming a little off the end of the joiner that sticks out of the right wing and use a dowel or something similar to pull the wings togethor tight enough to pull the gap out. However, this may put too much stress on the fuse where the wing will be pushing on it.
Put the two wings on with the joiner in the fuse and there is a gap on both sides of the fuse where the joiner goes into the wing. [:@] I was expecting a gap at the rear where most have put the wing bolt to close it off but that area is touching. It's also touching at the wing tip, so it looks like it's bowed in the middle. Did I forget something or is there another way to fix this.
I measured the gap, it's 1/32 on the top and 3/32 on the bottom of both wings.
Hints, clues???
I was thinking of trimming a little off the end of the joiner that sticks out of the right wing and use a dowel or something similar to pull the wings togethor tight enough to pull the gap out. However, this may put too much stress on the fuse where the wing will be pushing on it.
#1042
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From: Manassas,
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let me see if i get this correct.. there is no gap at the TE but only a gap where the joiner is? Maybe the former on the wing root got warped or something..
I bet VF would have a good sugestion on that one.
Looking at the measurements you have taking of the gaps. Maybe the joiner isn't perfectly lined up in the wing core itself. If you try to push down on the wing what happends to the gap? If its equal on both wings I would say you could probally build up the wing root with some extra balsa to fill up the gap.
The first picture isn't really clear... but, do you think that the joiner on the right wing (male end) is to long and causing it to push the other wing out? Either way you look at the problem it looks like the joiners are not in far enough in the wing. Maybe some extra sanding in the wing core itself, so you could get the joiners to fit in tighter..
I bet VF would have a good sugestion on that one.
Looking at the measurements you have taking of the gaps. Maybe the joiner isn't perfectly lined up in the wing core itself. If you try to push down on the wing what happends to the gap? If its equal on both wings I would say you could probally build up the wing root with some extra balsa to fill up the gap.
The first picture isn't really clear... but, do you think that the joiner on the right wing (male end) is to long and causing it to push the other wing out? Either way you look at the problem it looks like the joiners are not in far enough in the wing. Maybe some extra sanding in the wing core itself, so you could get the joiners to fit in tighter..
#1043

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From: Oak Harbor, WA
I thought maybe I had the center joiner upside down, but I have the wider side on the top just like the instructions show. The instructions said to have something to keep the proper spacing when you are gluing the joiner into the wing. I put the center piece into the wing and saw that it was the same width as the outside of the plane. When I put the joiner into both wings the center touches the spars on the wing halves, so I thought it would be a good fit. So when I put the wing on for a test fit I was expecting a good fit, well that didn't happen.
I think I will have to pull the covering off the wing and sand it down to get it flat. [:@]
I think I will have to pull the covering off the wing and sand it down to get it flat. [:@]
#1045
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From: BONAIRE,
GA
Salty25
It looks like the joiner is slightly protruding beyond the outside fuse wall. (looking at first photo). If that's true, then merely sand off that excess and try another fit.
I hope that's the culprit, cause that would be a pretty easy fix. Good Luck.
It looks like the joiner is slightly protruding beyond the outside fuse wall. (looking at first photo). If that's true, then merely sand off that excess and try another fit.
I hope that's the culprit, cause that would be a pretty easy fix. Good Luck.
#1046

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From: Oak Harbor, WA
Ed,
I had a few thoughts on how to fix the gap issue, one of them is to sand down the center joiner to get the wing to sit tighter onto the fuse. I sent a few pics of the gap to John at VF and he was thinking the same thing, sand down the center joiner. He also thought the wings may just have a slight sag since they are not glued on yet. I think this could be true also. If I put the joiners into the fuse without the wings on the center joiner sits perfectly into the fuse, both sides right at the sides of the fuse. When I took the pic I had the plane sitting on one wing, so the fuse may have slipped slightly to show the center joiner sticking out.
I have since went back and looked at the pics of others planes to see if there is the same type of gap. Looking at the pics in posts 58 on page 2, post 638 on page 22 and posts 850 and 851 on page 29 I see the same type of gap. The wing is touching the fuse at the LE and the TE.
I took a straight edge and both wing roots are true. Putting the edge onto the fuse you can see the sides are bowed in slightly. John at VF said the fuse does have a slight bow. I am thinking of adding an extra former to push the sides back out for that 2/32 gap.
However, if these other guys are flying their planes with the same gap and are not having a problem is it worth going thru all the hassle to fix? I know, I know... you can argue both ways all day long.
I think at this point I am going to sand down the center joiner that 2/32 on each side and glue the joiner into the wing. After I glue it in if there is still a gap I'll decide at that point if I want to put in the extra former or not. I think the question is on if the sanding of the former will work is; is the end of the joiner bottoming out in the wing or not? Should I sand down the same amount on the end of the joiner as on the center joiner to ensure it is going all the way in?
If I had hair I'd pull it out. [sm=bananahead.gif]
I had a few thoughts on how to fix the gap issue, one of them is to sand down the center joiner to get the wing to sit tighter onto the fuse. I sent a few pics of the gap to John at VF and he was thinking the same thing, sand down the center joiner. He also thought the wings may just have a slight sag since they are not glued on yet. I think this could be true also. If I put the joiners into the fuse without the wings on the center joiner sits perfectly into the fuse, both sides right at the sides of the fuse. When I took the pic I had the plane sitting on one wing, so the fuse may have slipped slightly to show the center joiner sticking out.
I have since went back and looked at the pics of others planes to see if there is the same type of gap. Looking at the pics in posts 58 on page 2, post 638 on page 22 and posts 850 and 851 on page 29 I see the same type of gap. The wing is touching the fuse at the LE and the TE.
I took a straight edge and both wing roots are true. Putting the edge onto the fuse you can see the sides are bowed in slightly. John at VF said the fuse does have a slight bow. I am thinking of adding an extra former to push the sides back out for that 2/32 gap.
However, if these other guys are flying their planes with the same gap and are not having a problem is it worth going thru all the hassle to fix? I know, I know... you can argue both ways all day long.
I think at this point I am going to sand down the center joiner that 2/32 on each side and glue the joiner into the wing. After I glue it in if there is still a gap I'll decide at that point if I want to put in the extra former or not. I think the question is on if the sanding of the former will work is; is the end of the joiner bottoming out in the wing or not? Should I sand down the same amount on the end of the joiner as on the center joiner to ensure it is going all the way in?
If I had hair I'd pull it out. [sm=bananahead.gif]
#1047
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From: BONAIRE,
GA
Salty25
You've got the right idea about the sanding of the joiners, but I wouldn't put in that extra former to push the fuse side out. That would put stress on the other formers and might cause damage once engine vibration takes it's toll.
If sanding the joiners doesn't fully take out the gap, (and it's a very small gap) I wouldn't be overly concerned with it and just enjoy flying it.
You've got the right idea about the sanding of the joiners, but I wouldn't put in that extra former to push the fuse side out. That would put stress on the other formers and might cause damage once engine vibration takes it's toll.
If sanding the joiners doesn't fully take out the gap, (and it's a very small gap) I wouldn't be overly concerned with it and just enjoy flying it.
#1048

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From: El Reno,
OK
Something I guess I didn't post before. I sanded my joiners down quite a bit after epoxying the wing halves. As the 30 min epoxy started to kick and harden I joined the halves to the fuse and bolted them down. I could see that some gap would be present and sliding the joiners together at the field would end up being a pain. But I ended up with little or no gap . In fact the outline of the airfoil is present on my fuse sides now after many flights. Tight fit. After bolting it all together I stood the plane on one wing tip and applied pressure to the other while it went into final cure (hardening). One click of right aileron trim during the maiden flight proved this to be a good decision after all. I was worried the wings would cure off by a small degree. Not so.
The nylon wingnut system I have for the TE works very well by the way. Very little pressure is needed to bring the TE's against the fuse tightly. I did however notice a slight movement in the entire wing after the first few flights. Just enough to make a clicking sound when I rocked the plane from side to side. The nylon landing gear I'm using has great flex. And will take a hard landing without bending or breaking. Really absorbs the shock and goes right back in place. I highly recommend them and the larger low-bounce wheels on this bird.
Here's a verbal rundown on how I assemble my wing at the field and what I do to seal the tiny gap or play between the joiner and the fuse.
First I slide the wings on and connect the joiner. Then I slide the two bolts in from the back to the front. The large wingnuts are easier to handle in the forward position than facing the servo tray. After they are tight I put the two nylon wingnuts on my nylon TE bolts and tighten. Before putting the belly pan on I take two micro servo control arms and push them between the joiner and the fuse at the area where they will fit. This completely removes any gap or flex during high G manuvers.
Last Sunday I finally put the Edge through the torture test. Wide open into the wind I banged the elevator full back on high rates to test for snapping. My Extra300s will snap quickly doing this harsh move. The Edge pulled almost a complete loop before snapping. And then rolled over and back into normal flight just as quickly. Any plane will snap doing this adverse move. But I was surprised that the Edge pulled that much loop before snapping over. These wings and joiners are tough. And now I can see why VF stresses the tri-stick and flying wires for the tail. This plane will really pull the high Gs and give you back the change. If I would have tried this type of stuff on a few of my other planes it would have been a funeral.
The nylon wingnut system I have for the TE works very well by the way. Very little pressure is needed to bring the TE's against the fuse tightly. I did however notice a slight movement in the entire wing after the first few flights. Just enough to make a clicking sound when I rocked the plane from side to side. The nylon landing gear I'm using has great flex. And will take a hard landing without bending or breaking. Really absorbs the shock and goes right back in place. I highly recommend them and the larger low-bounce wheels on this bird.
Here's a verbal rundown on how I assemble my wing at the field and what I do to seal the tiny gap or play between the joiner and the fuse.
First I slide the wings on and connect the joiner. Then I slide the two bolts in from the back to the front. The large wingnuts are easier to handle in the forward position than facing the servo tray. After they are tight I put the two nylon wingnuts on my nylon TE bolts and tighten. Before putting the belly pan on I take two micro servo control arms and push them between the joiner and the fuse at the area where they will fit. This completely removes any gap or flex during high G manuvers.
Last Sunday I finally put the Edge through the torture test. Wide open into the wind I banged the elevator full back on high rates to test for snapping. My Extra300s will snap quickly doing this harsh move. The Edge pulled almost a complete loop before snapping. And then rolled over and back into normal flight just as quickly. Any plane will snap doing this adverse move. But I was surprised that the Edge pulled that much loop before snapping over. These wings and joiners are tough. And now I can see why VF stresses the tri-stick and flying wires for the tail. This plane will really pull the high Gs and give you back the change. If I would have tried this type of stuff on a few of my other planes it would have been a funeral.
#1049

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From: Oak Harbor, WA
I got some 100 grit sand paper today and plan on doing some more sanding of the wing joiner holes to get the joiner to slide in and out easier. I still plan on doing some sanding of the joiner themselves to get them to butt up against the balsa in the wings.
Ed I decided after seeing the wing root is straight that I wasn't going to do any sanding on them; it's straight so why sand a curve into them. That does make sense about added stress by putting another former in the fuse. The gaps measures 2/32 on each side, that's only 1/16 of an inch. I'm not going to worry about it.
If I think it's causing me trouble after I get it in the air I can put some wing saddle tape in that area to close the gap.
Strutz, I was thinking of adding two wood screws on the H stab, under the V stab to help hold it on with the glue. I was thinking of putting them about 1/2 to 3/4 from the front and rear of the stab. I saw it done on a giant CAP for added strength. Do you think this would help or hinder?
Loyd
Ed I decided after seeing the wing root is straight that I wasn't going to do any sanding on them; it's straight so why sand a curve into them. That does make sense about added stress by putting another former in the fuse. The gaps measures 2/32 on each side, that's only 1/16 of an inch. I'm not going to worry about it.
If I think it's causing me trouble after I get it in the air I can put some wing saddle tape in that area to close the gap.
Strutz, I was thinking of adding two wood screws on the H stab, under the V stab to help hold it on with the glue. I was thinking of putting them about 1/2 to 3/4 from the front and rear of the stab. I saw it done on a giant CAP for added strength. Do you think this would help or hinder?
Loyd


