I made a definite note of that, no more than 3/8" of elevator throw - correct ?
How is the manual CG versus the 4" that some have stated?

I know that i have my CG at 4 inches which is good for my tastes. The manuals CG is pertty good just a tad nose heavy for the way i fly. I forgot what i used for my throws since im at work. For what i know i used the manuals high rates for my low rates and increased those rates for my high with expo of course. Ill post my findings when i get home from work.

Welcome aboard RCFlyerNYC! I am also using a 91FX and its great, pulls strongly straight up as much as you care to go! 14-8 or 14-6 are ok, personally I prefer the 14-6 or 14-4 because they slow the plane down quickly for landings.

CG's at 4 inches, my manual called for 4 plus or minus 3/8, so I went for the middle. I also have about 1/2 inch elevator throws!! which are not all used for regular flying, but its great to have that extra bit of throw available in a deadstick situation. But like everone said, thumbs lightly on the elevator! After a while it will become second nature to use it correctly. If you have expo by all means use it on the elevator to smoothen out flying around neutral stick!

Good luck with that maiden![8D]

I just double checked my throws and CG. My CG is actually at 3 7/8" not at 4 which i thought i had it set. Usually ill just move my battery little more aft if i want to put it 4 for a little more extreme stuff. My Elevator is also at 1/2 inch for highrate with 35% expo and 3/4 inch for my lowrate. The highrate does snap the plane and full deflection but it does help to have the extra throw from some amazing flat spins. Rudder of course is all the way i could make it.

Great, thank you! So how is the roll and pitch coupling with the rudder? This is my first true aerobatic plane and just wondering. I know with my Tiger I have to tuck the wing and pull elevator for it to get a nice knife edge. I'm not to doing flat spins yet but this will the plane I learn on.

At very extreme throws of the rudder there is some roll coupling. At knife edge it pitches to belly a good bit but, some mixing on the tx solves that problem

My rates, throws & CG setup is like Nathan's pretty much. The switch from the Saito100 to the .91FX w/Pitts muffler caused a little concern so I added a few weights to the tail. Bad idea !! This plane likes being a tad nose heavy when it comes time to land. When you balance it perfectly flat and then get down to the last couple of ounces in the tank during landings it will do the old balloon floating again. So needless to say the Edge went on a diet and shed the tail weight.
This plane loves to fly. Keep it a tad nose heavy when you CG it and don't chop the throttle completely till your almost wheels down. The first time you land keep the speed up like an Extra300 or similar plane that may tip stall. The Edge won't tip stall but it will keep flying till it simply has no more lift under the wings. Then as many VF EdgeHeads here will tell you,,, she'll fall straight down. No tipping.
Your gonna love the point rolls and flat spins.

P.S. Switched from a 15x6 APC to the 15x4 JZinger wooden prop for better vert and hover.

just a little bit of advise if you decide to go fly without the cowl.. RECHECK YOUR CG, i tried doing that and it ended up so tail heavy that i almost couldn't get it down in once piece.
So sturtz I know that your using the 91 fx but, witht he 15x4 do you think the plane flys to slow? I kind of like a speedier plane but, i could definatly use some downline breaking and probally a shorter final. With my saito im tempted to fly a 16x4 but, i dont know.

Nathan,,, I tried every prop they make...(almost). The 15x6 seemed to be the best for me running the Saito.
RPMs and vertical thrust were great with a 16x4 wood prop but of course the speed was much better using the 15x6 APC.
I did try all the 4 pitch props in 14 thru 16 inch. But the 6 pitch always seemed the best using the 1.00 Saito.
I think a 16 is too much for the 1.00 IMO.
This 2-stroker likes the 4 pitch prop to slow it down a tad on landings IMO. But,,, the quest goes on. Unfortunatly at $6 to $12 a prop.
What do you think the best prop would be for the OS.91FX ? These APCs drag the engine down too much because of the weight.

I already miss the Saito for the smooth thrust and slow speed ability . But this .91FX sure has some power.
Wish they made a Saito 1.20 in a 1.00 crankcase and cylinder weight.

I havenot looked back at previous posts but are you using the muffler that came with the EVO 100NX?

Nope, I'm using the Pitts muffler from Bisson for the Evo 1.00

First I want to thank everyone for all the help you have given me. You may not know it but you have, This is my first post as you can see ( but i've been watching) You guys have built some great looking planes, Vectorflight has a great plane here( 66" Edge ) could not be more pleased with them. OK reason I'm here Robart hinges, rudder and elevator went together perfect. ailerons have me a bit nervous. How many should I use and how can I get them all strait, does any one have a tip trick to getting them all in line. would be very happy for any help, thank you all. You are why I bought this plane, THANK YOU Rick

Rick, welcome to the VF club. This plane is just a blast to fly. I didn't use robarts on this plane so i cant really chime in. I do know that the robart drill guide they make does help out a lot when making sure there all in line. You could probally whip up a small drill guide out of scrap wood and drill an angle that you need on the guide. Then when you mark all the holes just drill where needed and that way all of the points will be at the correct angle. Four points would be plenty on one aileron. Has anyone else used hinge points on this plane that could also add their .02 cents.

Welcome to the club Rick!

Robarts are great if you can install them without getting any glue in the hinge pins! If you can do it cleanly then I would go for them. But do practice on some scrap before you drill in the real thing!! I believe you will have to make semi spherical recesses in both mating edges to embed the hinge knuckle or you would have a large gap in the ailerons. CA hinges are much easier and user friendly! I have 4 CA type on each aileron and had no problems![8D]

Just ordered one!

I mean at that price it was a no-brainer!

Lot's of good reading in this thread!!!

I've got a YS 110 for her....Should be about right!

I think this is going to be one of theose "Long Slow" builds just to make sure I do everything as accurately as I can.

Even before the plane gets here I was wondering if there is a Carbon Fiber Landing gear that I could use in place of the alum set??? A nice curved set.

I can already see myself spreading the alum strut apart on one of my world famous controlled crashes!

Thanks

Larry

Hey Larry, you replacing your MA with this one? Mine should be up in the air this weekend *crosses fingers*

Sort of...

I just bought another wing for the Miss A (her fourth), and I've decided that this is her last rebuild.

I was planning on something larger, but when I saw the price tag on this edge, I jumped at it!

Heck I paid 117.00 for a replacement wing kit and belly scoop for the Miss A alone....



Larry

Hey Rick, I still have the VF edge in the box, but I just finished the VF Extra with Robart hinges. You MUST make a jig to drill the holes in the wing and the aileron. Unfortunately on the extra, the angles were different so I had to make 2 jigs. It took me about 3 hours but it was well worth it. I used 1x2 stock for the main jig and made it such that one face sat flush on the top of the wing (or aileron) and one face was flush with the surface to be drilled. I had to experiment a little to get the right drill angle into the surface. I used 5/32" brass tubing as the guide for the drill bit, epoxied in place. See if the attached pic helps. If not, email me and I can send you more.

Welcome to the club !! If your like me I'm in here going back and forth through this thread weekly to get hints and to look at pics, etc.

I think your going to see VF coming out with a newly designed landing gear here in a few days. Just a hunch.
CF LG would be perfect IMO. I use the nylon which has really soaked up some aweful landings I've made.

The Robarts point hinge question had me going for awhile. But after doing my homework on the beveled style aileron and trailing edge and asking several master builder guys who have worked with these type of control surfaces in the past. I went with the CA hinges. I know we've posted on this before somewhere in here , but I'll mention this again. It was one of the toughest parts of my VF Edge build to just sit down and make myself do. I was a bit scared to tell ya the truth.

The two surfaces (trailing edge & aileron) have about 1/2" inch each to use safely as hinge areas. The wing area past 1/2 " deep is foam. Even using Foam Safe CA like I did foam is not strong enough to secure flight surfaces on this size plane. Works fine on 25oz elec planes, etc. But not too good on 8 lb nitro burners. True,, the aileron is a fully built up surface. But because of the highly beveled shape you still only have about 1/2" of surface to work with. Installing point hinges into these ailerons is like sticking a big hypodermic needle into a vein to take blood. You can do it,, but you better have hands like a surgeon to keep from poking the point out through the rear of the aileron. It's tough just making your slit for CA hinges. "Don't ask."
Then you have to deal with the worst part of point hinges and that's alignment. It's a real pain to get them all exactly perfect and lined up the same for equal movement. If they are not 100% exact binding will occur. In other words,, they have their place in the RC world,, opinions vary. Most big gassers come with them. They need the extra beef because of their size.

I simply used some Great Planes CA hinge sheets that you cut yourself. Got them from a Ucando build I had.
I cut them 2-1/2" x 1-1/16" inches and installed 4 of them on each wing . Gave me 1/2" secured into each surface with a 1/16th" gap between for free movement at higher rates. Guys correct me if I'm wrong here but I believe you measure 1/16th of an inch below the top edge of both surfaces and then angle downward whether you use point or CA hinges.
The extra wide hinge really closes up the small gap and I've never had a flutter one.
All in all it's what you prefer I guess. Took me about 30 mins.

I used Great Planes nylon pinned hinges... was nervous at first... but once I got going it was easy...

due to my own lack of skill I've never had good luck with hinge points... too easy to screw up

Hey Sturts....so your an OKIE too?!

Wanna hinge mine for me...yours looks like it came out near perfect!

HEHEHEHEHHEHE..

I was hoping against hope that the slits would already be there...Oh..well....

Larry

Okie City eh ? Let's hookup and do some flying. Perfect ? Hardly. But if you use ca glue you'll get some bleed thru on the white area of the wing. [:@]
This was my first wing tip damage. Not much damage for a cartwheeled crash. Tough plane. No doubt.
My new wingset sure looks good though. The foam is now white instead of blue like the older models.

Ok..SO I'm setting up my "Need to Buy in in order to complete" List....

Here is what I have so far from reading this thread.

1) Sullivan Flying wire kit (one kit or 2 to complete?)
2) 2-3/4" tru turn 2-blade spinner
3) Du-Bro heavy duty landing gear (A MUST have for my landings)
4) Dave Brown 3" lite foam wheels
5) Slimline Pitts style muffler for a YS 110 (91)
6) Red Top-Flite hot fuelproof Paint (For the LG and the inside of the fuse especially where the fuel tank goes)


I have enough Futabe 9202 Coreless Servos for the job, Are these going to be strong enough?

Battery 2000MAH MAH 6-volt..CHECK!
Other radio gear and wiring...CHECK!

What about a remote glow and a fueling setup??? Fuel dots the best option or is there a more elegant choice without being restrictive

I have a "Y harness and extensions for the Ailerons..But I feel like I'm missing something.....

What about the tailwheel...I've really never liked the ones that come with most ARFs..and since I'm in for a penny..I'm in for a pound!

I'd rather place one BIG $$ order and get EVERYTHING right the first time....at this point I can see no reason to try and save 20-30 dollars and not be HAPPY HAPPY!

So speak up with any GOTTAHAVITS before my wallet starts crying!


I decided this is one plane that I'm not going to spare any expense ...I've been down that road....
I would always try to "Get Away" with using something that would work "OK" and paid the price for the good stuff later on after I broke the Cheesy stuff!



Let me have it!!!!!

THanks


Larry

Klett or Sullivan tailwheel.
Wheel Pants. I use the Funtana 90s. Others will work.
Tri stick for the tail area.
Axles for the LG.
Nylon bolts for the LG.
Supplies to support the rear wing area from the inside after you join them. Nylon bolts and wingnuts.
Reversing Y-harness for the elev halves if you use two servos.

Anyone else?

I'll look at the Kleet..the Sullivan is UGLY!..
Going to skip wheel pants..I usually land in the grass.

What is a TRI STICK for the tail??

Axles....Check
Nylon LG bolts...CHECK
Without seeing the plane..I don't know what I would need for the rear wing area.....HELP!

Two servos for the tail do indeed sound good..the wheel collar over the pushrod setup gives me the willies!