Hello to all,
Thank you for all the useful info that has been posted on this thread. I too have also built this Super cub and love it. I have been flying it for about 3 months now and always have a great time . I went with a electric setup on this project because I have gotten rid of all my glow stuff and only fly electric now. My set up is as follows,

1. Scorpian 4020-14 motor ( 1.5 to 1 power ratio)
2. Castle 80 amp ESC
3 Hitec Hs 475HB in the wings and 485HB in the rudder and elevator
4. 16X8 Xoar prop
5. I use a 5S 5300 MA 35C pack

It comes in at 8.5 lbs all up weight. With this pack I get 35 minuts of fun. I useally split it up into 2 or 3 flights.
I access my pack by taking off the wing. With the disarming plug on the outside of the plane, I dont have to worry a bout the pack wearing down between flights

This is a very solid plane and very stable as you would expect a cub would be. I use my flaps all the time for 6' take off's and slow landings
I have had alot of fun doing flat spins with this plane and when i say flat I mean frisbee flat, but be careful it takes at least 3 rotations of the plane to recover. So give yourself pleanty of highth, oh yeh it helps to have the CG a little towards the tail. I can do 200' inside loops and can also do very nise axial rolls. But the best part is flying low and slow. I intend to put a tow hitch on the plane and tow my buddies gliders up.
Well thanks again for all the info and please check out my picks, The 2 flying pics down below where taken on the same flight the moon was in the east and the sun set was in the west
Thanks Fizzy

Floats are almost finished. I hope to start mounting them within a week or so.

WOW what a nice job. It makes me Jealous that I didn't do a better job on mine. I particularly like the way you managed to enclose most of the connecting wiring to the the aileron and flap servos. I don't think I'll be doing any flat spins on purpose that was one thing I was taught as a pilot to avoid at all cost but maybe a few tail spins. I am going to go back to work on mine and see if I can't find a way to enclose the wire to keep them from flopping around inside. I haven't flown mine as the weather here in south GA has been rainning and windy. I am still awaiting 4s and 5s batteries to arrive from Hobby King. I left the front windows on each side out to see if I can access the cabin that way and I think it will work since I can get a hand in from each side but haven't tried it with the struts in place . Thanks again for all the nice pictures. Terry

Where can you order Modeltech planes from?? THANKS

I got mine from some very nice people at Hobby People RC( Hobbypeople.net). They ship very quickly. I had a slight problem with one of the holes where the wing bolts go through was off about 4mm and they sent a new wing quickly. I had a problem with the motor they recommended-could not get it to program with 2 different ESCs although they were not the one they recommended so I sent it back and bought an e-flite power 46 which fits perfectly and is the same size. I also chose to use a 60 AMP ESC instead of the 80. I also noted that the instructions told you to put the servos in facing the wrong way otherwise no major building problems. I haven't flown it yet but have read some good reviews here. Terry

Hi Tappa,

I was about to set up the aileron and flap servos and noted your comment on the position of the shaft to the rear rather than the leading edge as the instructions, even with a highlighted note, say to install. Question...had you tried it per the manual? I note also per Fizzy's post and picture the servo is toward the trailing edge, same as you stated. Were you able to sort out the flaps down together problem? I use a DX7 also.

John

Hi John, I initially inserted the servos with the shaft closest to the leading edge but found that the push rods supplied were to short. I then went back and turned all of them around and they fit perfectly. I later saw a blog on this site that someone left them that way and used longer rods but the simple thing to do is just turn them around. As far as the flaps are concerned I am not sure what you mean as I had no problem getting the flaps to go down are you having a problem with this? I did try using a circular horn for the flaps but changed it to a standard type because the rod tended to bind and the keeper came loose in testing. There is some concern for me about aileron differential that I have been reading about. In other words a high wing airplane tends to have adverse yaw with banking and it is suggested by some that the ailerons should be raised a little more than downward deflection to dampened this affect but the manual instructions for set-up is equal upward and downward deflection so thats what I am using. When flying a real Super Cub one uses the rudder pedal as they say " step on the ball" to keep it centered to prevent this. This can be done in RCs by appying a little rudder when turning with the ailerons to have a coordinated turn and prevent yaw. Again I am just a novice at this hobby so better check it out for yourself.

Hey Terry
Thanks for all the nice comments. I have been in the hobbie for 30 years, so I have built alot of planes. You pick up a few things along the way. One of the reason's I ran all my wires out of the way was to make room for a cock pit and pilot. A buddy of mine that I fly with has the H9 Piper cub same size as the super. When I was looking for a cub I did not what to get the same one he has. His cub has a barbie (cut in half) as a pilot and I though had cool it looked with a pilot. I dont think I am going with a barbie though
The wires I ran up to the wing are just long enough to stay connected with out any tension on them, but also do not have any slop. Because I have to take the wing off to get to the battery,I didnt want to tape or hot glue the wires to the bottom of the wing. It works out really well I dont even have to disconnect the wires while I am changing the battery. After I ran them down the side of the fuse, I didnt like the way they were exposed so thats why I put them behind the angle stock. Then I put all the exposed wire in side the tubing to keep it nice and clean inside the fuse. This plane is as stable as they come, If you have aligned all your controll surfaces straight and you have the CG correct the cub will fly it'self. The only thing I would give you a heads up on is the ground handling. With a wing this big it is very sensitive to wind so make sure you are heading straight into the wind on take off and landing. I am going to add either some more monocoat or some kind of hard plastic to the wing tips. I dont think I have had but 3 landings that the wing tips didn't make contact with the ground, after landing. The link below is of my buddies cub on RCG look for post 516 his name is AKU
Hope your weather clear up soon so you can fly
Fizzy
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...654825&page=35

After seeing your fine job here is what I came up with. I drilled a hole on each side of the "floor" and attached some velcro on the wall. I found some light plastic tubing and put velcro on that so I can easily remove and reattach. I ran the wires down under and back to the receiver. The wires come out the top of the tubing so that I can pull what ever I need to attach to the ailerons and flaps and then stuff any excess back into the tubing. Its not very pretty but the wires won't be flopping around and get hung up on the servos. I really like the Barbe doll in the cub -might try something like that after I test the plane. I don't know when that's going to happen as we have SNOW forcasted here in South Ga for the first time in years. This "global warming" is really getting me down. Terry

Hi Terry,

In my previous post I was ahead of myself. I hadn't looked at the aileron rods provided and seen that they are pre-bent thus the reason for reversing the servos shaft to the rear. All is well and a perfect fit. I can't tell you how many Cub's I've had over the last 40+ years. At present 3 on hand and flyable but I opted for this Super Cub because of the flaps and I'm a sucker for sales. I do enjoy flying and cross control with flat turns and a little crab on landing. Nothing crazy like the drunkin farmer but some realistic Cub flying. A good headwind and slow is fun as well. I'm not working fast, only when the mood hits me. So far everything fits and I'm pleased with the kit.

John

Is this discontinued? http://www.globalhobby.com/public/mo...s/acarf201.asp does not list the Super Cub. Not sure if that is ModelTech's official site or not, but it appears to be their site.

Hi I got mine from Hobby People discount RC in California. Their website is hobbypeople.net. Then just type in Super Cub. They may be the only ones that sell it because I haven't been able to find it anywhere. They also state that they are in limited supply so I am not sure if it has been a discontinued item or not. Terry

I know what you mean . At my age of 63 I want something a little slower and easier to see. terry

Yeah that's a bummer. I don't think there is currently another 40 size arf of super cub by anyone else.

I'm pretty sure http://modeltech.globalhobby.com/ is the company website and it's not listed anymore. I saw the "Limited Stock" indication on hobby people. Thanks for the link.

John I noticed the Mighty eighth logo on your blog. What does the one on the top of the patch desiginate. I was in the 8th AF 484th Bomb Wg but not the WWII Mighty Eight. We had B-52s. Terry

Yes Terry, it is the ONE Eighth Air Force patch. Derived from the Eighth AF. Est about 1975 from members of local clubs whose interest is primarly warbirds but all scale models. Since, we have members through out the USA and active members in the USSMA as well as Top Gun condenders. We have established a bi-annual scale fly-in which brings flyers from the midwest to the west coast. Our website is being re-establishd and should be up in the next few weeks. www.oneeighthairforce.org

John

Hey Terry,
what did you end up doing about your battery access, Are you going threw the windows or are you doing something different
Fizzy

Hi Fizzy, Well so far I have just left the Front window out on each side for battery access and have added a quick disconnect plug to the out side like you have and made a few other changes. I had to move my ESC to the side of the motor to get better CG. I still haven't flown it as the weather has been bad. There may be some occasions that I will have to take the wings off but by and large I think it is going to work out by manipulating through the windows.

Correction that's move the ESC to the side of the motor mount.

I just received the HobbyPeople internet advert. and they are showing this Super Cub on sale at $139.99 when you click to order...Limited Supply until 2/22. It might cost dearly to ship over to you but it is a very good ARF and could be worth it. All the best...

John

This is a steal at 139. I think shipping is about 20 bucks or so. It is a steal.

yea -It normally sells for about $220 -I wonder why it is so cheap although I did get mine on sell for a little more. Terry

To John or Fizzyo or anyone in the know I have a question about connecting batteries in Series. I connected (2) 7.4 2s 2200 mah fully charged batteries in series using an EC3 series harness to achieve 14.8 volts. I was able to get 514 wp on the volt meter with 34.04 ap and 14.64 vm which seems like enough power for the aprox. 7-8# Super Cub but wanted to get a little more watts to be closer to 100 watts per lb. I then tried a 11.1 V 2200 mah battery and (1) 7.4v 2200 mah battery. I was only able to pull 386wp, 28.11 ap 13.57 vm. There was also a noticible decrease in power. I know that I should be able to connect different volt batteries as long as the mah is the same according to instructions that I had from Tower Hobbies on the Matt Chapman that I had previously built. I am not sure what is wrong. The 11.1v 3s battery is older and a different brand name. any suggestions. I have a 5s battery on order but wanted to try this in the meantime. Thanks Terry

Hi Fizzyo, See my note to John Neilson-see if you have any suggestions thaks Terry

Sorry Terry, I'm not into Electrics althoug I've just gone to the A123 and with alot of confidence after having issues with 4.8V and don't trust the LiPo's.

John

PS: CloudDancer,

Did you order your Super Cub? I note it takes 1010.00 SEK (Kronor) to equal $140.00. Sounds like alot to me!!