Miloh it looks really good! cant wait to see it when its complete. You are one of many know who understand the quality of service from VF.

Ok Guys a little more this morning. The last thing I worked on last night was the plastic piece that goes on the back over the horz stab. I got it all cut out and placed but just didn't like the way it looked. So I decided to do it with wood like David Moen. If David had not done it this way and told us I probably would not have thought of it. I did not carve mine I built it up and sanded to shape. the first pict shows the piece of balsa I started with. I just cut in into planks and started gluing it together. Heres a pictoral that can be used as a guide. It took about an hour to make it. Enjoy.

Next........

next......

This piece weighs 6 grams or 1/4 ounce uncovered and looks real good. It will also work for added stringth in the tail feathers. back to the building board.


Miloh

Alright here it is all covered and installed, Prety nice if I do say so myself. It gives a lot of gluing serface and should make the tail feathers bullit proof.

Miloh.

Hay guys...If I decide to put flying wires on the tail do they have to go top and bottom or will just on top be ok?


Miloh.

garch 22:

As far as all up weight with the .90 supertiger I can not help but I can tell you it's around 7 to 8 ounces lighter than the engine I'm using so I would think it would be just fine. VF sent me an e-mail once that said the all up weight of the 66 extra with a ,75 would be 8.25 lbs and the .90 is listed as the same weight in the RCU produst guide.

Hope this helps.

Miloh.

Once again VF has blown my mind with their continued effort to make their customers happy. I sent them a picture of the mod on the tail faring and this was their reply.

Miloh.

Dear William:

Thank you very much for your message. The balsa tail fairing is very nice! Also thank you for your input regarding the landing gear plate. Both of these parts are under design review and hopefully will be modified soon.

Thank you again for taking the time to write to us. We are grateful to all our customers whose feedback is an essential part of our ongoing improvement process.

We will be soon changing the materials of the belly pan and the wheel pants, to a much stronger plastic, similar to the cowl's. As soon as we have these available, we will be happy to mail a set to you. If you do not automatically receive a new set within 2 weeks, please send us a reminder e mail.

If there is anything we may do, please let us know.

Best regards,

Miloh,
I just wanted to say "nice job" on the fairings. I'm still waiting for the VF Edge 540 to show up at my doorstep.

I'm also curious about your engine setup. I decided to go with an ST G90 also. How do you have yours setup? Might I be able to get away with mounting it sideways? or will the exhaust not clear the bottom of the fuse.

Great thread. Man, where is that delivery guy?????

dmajchrzak:

Hay Dave thanks for the "Nice Job"
Actually I'm using a TigerShark .91 not the SuperTiger, Sorry.
I wouldn't use a stock muffler due to having to cut the cowl all up. I got a pitts muffler for mine and will mount the engine side ways and the muffler will come out the bottom. Best I can remember I paid about $30.00 for my pitts. I don't know if the ST .90 stock muffler will fit inside the cowl or not now that I think of it, this thing has a big cowl.

Miloh.

Wow! Excellent pictures Miloh. Talk about step by step tutorial. Think you will be very happy with the way she flies.

Am I taking up to much space??

Miloh.

Looking good Miloh! I told you the balsa fairing worked out nice! I too bombarded VF with "suggestions" as I was building. They always replied in a similar pleasant manner. Other companies I've sent similar suggestions too got quite snotty about things.

Another thing to watch out for...

If you use screws to attach the canopy, drill pilot holes first then cut the screws down by 1/2, then they won't be poking so far into the fuse interior.

For the antennae exit, drill a hole throught the fuse floor aft of the wing saddle and OFF CENTER. There is only 1 structural aft of the wing saddle, below the main frame piece, you don't want to drill a hole right through it! Drill al hole large enough to insert a short piece of fuel silicone fuel tube, glue that in place with about 1/2" extending outside the fuse. Run the antenne wire out through this, with a strain releif on the inside. Secure it to the tail wheel bracket with a small elastic.

Hay David Moen Thanks for the info. What did you guys use on the wing hold down bolts I plan to use some kind of light ply I guess. I thought for sure the wing would be balsa sheated.
Dam that cowl!!!! it;s just to small for a T stroker .91... Kinda like trying to put Dolly Pardon in a tank top hehe
Mine looks like a tank top now after all the cutting but it on there. How did you attatch the cowl??
Going to put in the Tank and radio gear to day and try to maiden in the morning.

Miloh.

Miloh,

For what it's worth, I used brass inserts for the cowl. Actually, I think I got the idea from David. I placed the cowl with engine and muffler installed. Attached the prop and spinner and then positioned the cowl until everything was just right. Starting from the top, I used blue tape to hold it in place and smoothed everything in a downward motion to the bottom underside. Then checked everything out from front, side and back. After confirming that it was all still straight, I drilled two small holes on each side of the cowl.

Removed the whole assembly and went inside and glued a little piece of balsa block over each hole. Then drilled out each hole for the brass insert. 4-40 was what I used if I remember correctly. Install the inserts, go back and enlarge the holes in the cowl just a bit then put everything back on and use screws and washers. Everything worked perfect the first time. Which is a first for me.

Any more pics?

John

4 screws works OK for the cowl. If you are careful, you can make sure the tom-most screws go through the fuse side doubler. I taped the cowl in place then drilled right through the cowl and fuse. Then I removed the cowl and glued some balsa blocks inside the fuse over top of the holes with epoxy. I then drilled the hoes in the fuse out with an 1/8" drill bit and epoxied in some short pieces of Nyrod (nylon pushrod, the inner portion). The cowl mounting screws go into the centre of the Nyrod, shouldn't wear out. I used socket head servo screws for the cowl and the bellypan (which is secured the same way) that way I'm not skewering my plane with a sharp Phillips screwdriver when removing and reinstalling these parts.

Hay John, I'll post some more picts a little later, I'm thinking I might have to move the motor a little further out on the mount and if so I'll have to have another cowl. The great planes .60 size cowl is fiberglass and I'm thinking about getting one of these. Or maybe just getting an after market FG cowl for a .60 size kit if I can find one. The one I have now is just to tight, It seems to be touching somthing inside but I can't see what and if it is touching somthing inside the viberation would destroy it really fast I think. What if anything did you use on the wing? or did you just let the nylon bolts go aginst the coverning with nothing added for support?

Cya, Miloh.

Hay thanks David!! I'm going to take all the stuff for this plane and head down to the hobby store. there is a great shop down there and the owner lets me use it. I just get what ever I need off the shelf and keep a list. It's like having the ultimate setup all at my desposal. I should have it done this afternoon.

Thanks to everyone.

Miloh.

Can't help you with the wing Miloh. Mine is the Edge and it's 2-piece. Sorry.

As for the cowl touching something, take a look at this:

On the inside of my cowl where the hub exits, there was a big lip around the opening. Everytime I tried fitting the cowl, I met resistence and I couldn't find where it was hitting. When I finally found it, took a dremel sanding drum to it and 5 seconds later everything fit fine.

Check it,
John

MORE PICTS:

I had to get my slide rule out for the motor mount and cowl setup. As you can see in the picture of the front I got some right thrust in, not sure how much. I put two small washers 1/64 under both the front motor mount bolts. no down thrust at this point. For the cowl I cut and cut.....and cut some more then I cut some more LOL. finally..... It's not up to my standards but it will work. Getting into the back of the firewall to position the blind nuts for the new motor mount was a challenge to say the least.
I'll say this bird is tougher that I thought it would be, I use a glass top on my building table and it's 36 inches to the concrete floor. not having the wheels on yet the plane wanted to slide around a lot and when I turned my back one time it fell off the table and landed upside down on the vert stab and cowl!!!! not a mark. and when I was trying to get the orig motor mount blind nuts out I put a bolt in from the front side and pounded them out. It got pretty violent and every held very nicely.

Anyway It's coming along pretty good so I'm headed down to the hobby shop so I'll post some more later this evening.

Later, Miloh.

I was just over on e-bay and saw a vectorflight 300s 66 in. wing listed anyone interested check it out. might save you a wait. I have mine so don't need another but it was tempting.

Miloh,

Did you shorten your cowl? If so why?

David Moen: The cowl will only go so far onto the front of the fuse. At the point that the cowl stops My motors shaft was still hidden inside the cowl. the only way I could figure to get the cowl far enough onto the fuse for the shaft to potrude enough to put a prop on it was to cut the back of the cowl off so it would slide further back on the fuse.
Did this all work out for you without cutting the cowl?? if so what motor and mouht did you use?

Miloh.

I used the supplied mount, and a ASP 91 (clone of OS 91FX). THe engine is right at the end of the mount. Plane balanced up perfect this way.