I am determined to get this done and flying!

Today so far I have installed the on/off switch, antenna guide (also note button strain relief), plugged in the Rx, got all the servos going in the correct direction, trimmed the servo arms, and RTV'd the velcro straps to hold the Rx/Battery, and strung the antenna to a "T" pin on the rudder.

So, what's left?

wrap battery & Rx in foam
Clear coat wing
Do all hinges
install control surfaces
Install Landing gear
control horns
install aileron servos
make & run pushrods
Install engine, prop, spinner
canopy
AMA numbers & SPA and VR/CS
Align & adjust

I think that about covers it. Speak up if I forgot something.

Lookin' good! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

So, more progress today. First, radio install complete - check!

Next - install hinges. I use a straw to blow epoxy deep into the hinge slot. Works good. Make sure the acutal hinge line is exactly on the "V" of the control surface. Notice the hinge slot has a recess to accomodate the hinge line.

Now to do pushrods - old style. In all the years I have been flying, this method has never failed. First, cut your clevis & rod to a convenient length, don't forget the fuel-line keeper. Make sure the clevis is centered in the threads, that gives you the most adjustments in either direction. Using a 1/4" dowel, drill a hole and cut a notch for the metal rod.

Then, bind the two together tightly with button thread. simple knot at the rear, several overlapping wraps at the front, then a clove hitch on the rod. Smear liberally with epoxy, and it is done.

The business end - all plumbed and ready to go!

Funny story about the nose wheel - because of the extreme depth of the engine compartment, I could not get an allen wrench down there to secure the nose gear. So it is on the plane just by the grace of the steering linkage. This will prove to be interesting as time goes on.......

Nice clean installation Wedj. Good to see your old school method using foam everywhere. Thats how mine look. It drives me nuts to see how some of the bigger hi dollar airplanes just have the receivers velcroed to the airframe with nothing for shock protection. Another thingthat has always bothered me is the lack of shock mounting for the switch. The switch is one of the weakest link in the system. I don't usethe dinky switches that come with the radios but instead use something more substantial. I also shock mount the switches using servo grommets between th
e airframe and the switch when possible. Call me "old school" but vibration is a killer especially with a screamin' 2cycle. Beautiful airplane! regards Sugarfox

You need some of these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE246&P=7

Yes. I didn't realize they came in the smallser sizes. I have the 4-40 and 6-32s

Now I gotta take the engine out.

How about these copies of dressy Perfect Brand wheel collars? Complete with allen head set screws.
Oops, left out the link!
http://www.ultrahobbyproducts.com/Accessories.html

The model is looking fantastic!
Chris...

after all of the glassing, sanding, filling, priming and painting are the results worth it? what a great feeling it must be to look at your plane and enjoy the fruits of your labors. what a beautiful plane. i have no desire at all to monkeycote a plane. i can buy an intruder arf if i need a plane in a hurry.

david

The results are DEFINITELY worth it. Up close, the paint job isn't great, lots of dust particles, etc. but from 3 feet away it is a thing of beauty.

8178, I ordered a mini-ball driver from my LHS (35 miles away, he mails stuff to me) Thanks for the tip.

Hopefully, tomorrow I will be able to shoot clear on the wing, then finish assembly next week. One thing of note, the elevators are quite large. I think they will not need much deflection for operation. Glad I got long control arms.

Unfortunately, the top of the nose strut does not come above the nylon bracket. Nice looking bullet collars, though.

Oh,
I actually meant them for the wheels, but I see what you are saying. That'd be trick detailing!
That model is looking great.
One question, did you decide to tape the canopy on last because the original one was that way? I usually integrate them into the fuse with a trench, glue, fillet, mask and paint with the fuse kind of deal. Just wondering.
Chris...

My intention with the canopy is to dig a trench and spot glue it in. Then, mask it off +- 1/8" inch at the intersection and apply a line of black RTV to both hold it secure and to make it look like the original. Smoothed into fillet shape with a lacquer thinner wetted finger. Or maybe a popsicle stick.

A suggestion on your canopy installation and maybe you already plan to do this. I find that painting the area that the canopy covers a dark color when you have a white fuselage really improves the look of the canopy.

Your plane is looking Really Nice!! Super Kewl.. [8D]

Although I agree, I think I want to leave it like the original. Yes, I did think about painting it with the blue of the trim.

Determined to finish, down to the final stuff to do...........

Like putting the control surfaces onto the tail

Next, I can't resist pushing the envelope. Since I sprayed clear on the right wing half yesterday, I am free to put on the plastic lettering.

Next up on the detail list - install canopy. FIrst, cut a groove to accept the edges. Then spot glue the canopy in.

Mask it off, smear black RTV, smooth it out with a tongue depressor, take the masking tape off, and you are done! Not too bad for an old guy.

I am pleased with the results