E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#3776
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From: mansfield,
TX
ORIGINAL: bfbcacid
I've been reading these posts and tried the fix for sticky collective. When I was done I noticed more of a sticky problem then I had before. After checking the CP I noticed that there is a ton of play in the blade grips from side to side (Outward / inward) is this normal? how much play should there be with the blade grips to the center shaft? also why do I have more sticky after the mod? any help is greatly appriciated
Thank You,
I've been reading these posts and tried the fix for sticky collective. When I was done I noticed more of a sticky problem then I had before. After checking the CP I noticed that there is a ton of play in the blade grips from side to side (Outward / inward) is this normal? how much play should there be with the blade grips to the center shaft? also why do I have more sticky after the mod? any help is greatly appriciated
Thank You,
When you pulled off the first hex-bolt to remove the blade grip, were there two washers on it or just 1? If just 1, then you have the newer head design, and nothing should be modified. If this is the case, put it back the way it was before you changed it.
Dirt can also cause sticky collective. Make sure all parts are very clean and well lubricated, and it should work well...
#3777
Senior Member
bfbcacid
I have play in my grips too, 1/8 in. or less . Sticky collective? where is your throttle trim?
and where on the stick do you feel it's "sticking?or kicking in (Engaging)??
I agree if it's new put it back the way it was and Lube/Oil it. I Spin it up slowly it is a lot
of plastic parts.
Bob
dignlivn
Zoo and Gary
Parts came today!!!!
I have play in my grips too, 1/8 in. or less . Sticky collective? where is your throttle trim?
and where on the stick do you feel it's "sticking?or kicking in (Engaging)??
I agree if it's new put it back the way it was and Lube/Oil it. I Spin it up slowly it is a lot
of plastic parts.
Bob
dignlivn
Zoo and Gary
Parts came today!!!!
#3778
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
thanks for the quick response....
My throttle is 3/4 to full it kicks in at different times sometimes at 3/4 and sometimes at full.... I also have the trim all the way up.
In the blade grips there were 2 washers (one flat washer and one shoulder spacer).... I first tried them in the order of screw, spacer with shoulder facing bearing, flat washer. That did not work.
I put them back to screw, washer, spacer with shoulder facing bearing and its still bad.
I believe all parts are clean but I will lube them again.
Any ideas? Thanks for your help in advance
My throttle is 3/4 to full it kicks in at different times sometimes at 3/4 and sometimes at full.... I also have the trim all the way up.
In the blade grips there were 2 washers (one flat washer and one shoulder spacer).... I first tried them in the order of screw, spacer with shoulder facing bearing, flat washer. That did not work.
I put them back to screw, washer, spacer with shoulder facing bearing and its still bad.
I believe all parts are clean but I will lube them again.
Any ideas? Thanks for your help in advance
#3779
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From: mansfield,
TX
If you've crashed it, your spindle could be bent or pushed over. My spindle got pushed over about .5mm one time so that it was no longer perfectly centered. It was sticking through the bearing on one side, and the bearing on the other side was hanging off the end of the shaft slightly. It still flew somewhat OK, but my collective was sticky and there was a minor vibration at speed.
Also, when it was like this, I had a lot of play in one blade grip, and no play in the other one. You probably don't have this problem, but you should check for something similar if you are sure everything is clean and lubed well.
If your spindle is not PERFECT, you will have problems. It can't be bent, burred, etc. AT ALL. If it is, save yourself a lot of time and frustration, and go buy a new one.
Also, when it was like this, I had a lot of play in one blade grip, and no play in the other one. You probably don't have this problem, but you should check for something similar if you are sure everything is clean and lubed well.
If your spindle is not PERFECT, you will have problems. It can't be bent, burred, etc. AT ALL. If it is, save yourself a lot of time and frustration, and go buy a new one.
#3780
Senior Member
bfbcacid
Like ct420 said, Have you crashed ?? If so Check the spindle. They bend just as easy
as the main shaft. Sounds like you put things back OK. Oil the Swash and the top of head
(Plastic parts ).Check blade tracking again.
You could Unplug BOTH motors and arm the 4n1 and raise throttle stick and watch the swash
it should move down when you raise the stick.
Bob
dignlivn
#3781
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
I have not crashed it at all.... Can you tell me what a spindle is? I will check all head parts for bends and lube it any recommended lube.... I have a white lithium grease I use on all my stuff will this be ok for the CP?
Thank you again
Thank you again

#3782
Senior Member
bfbcacid
Not suer about the grease?? I use oil for my beard trimmer, it's thin
and doesn't attract dirt.
The spindle is the piece between the blade grips. A metal shaft that the blade grip screws
thread into. You will need 2 allen wrenches,one at each end, unscrew one end and pull out
the spindle from the other end. I then place the spindle in my drill chuck and unscrew the other screw.
Then roll the spindle on a flat surface. Glass table works good. If it is even slightly bent
I would buy a couple of new ones and main shafts while your at it.
Does your swash move up and down freely(with motors un plugged??)
Bob
This is a great thread for setting everything up right---- Thanks bdavison
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...y_blade/tm.htm
Not suer about the grease?? I use oil for my beard trimmer, it's thin
and doesn't attract dirt.
The spindle is the piece between the blade grips. A metal shaft that the blade grip screws
thread into. You will need 2 allen wrenches,one at each end, unscrew one end and pull out
the spindle from the other end. I then place the spindle in my drill chuck and unscrew the other screw.
Then roll the spindle on a flat surface. Glass table works good. If it is even slightly bent
I would buy a couple of new ones and main shafts while your at it.
Does your swash move up and down freely(with motors un plugged??)
Bob
This is a great thread for setting everything up right---- Thanks bdavison
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...y_blade/tm.htm
#3783
If you've got 1/8th inch play somethin' ain't right. My bird was one of the originals with the washers reversed. After putting them in correct order, smallest washer next to the rubber bushing, I have no play and also no sticky. The beard trimmer oil should be fine. I think you may need to loosen your links on the balls. Very gently squeeze the links on the balls with a pair of needle nose pliers. Use trial and error until they move freely. Use caution not to overdo it or you'll trash them. Trial and error, lots of trial=no error.
#3784
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From: Seneca,
SC
hey i been working on my gallery and profile ive put 2 pics of my cx in my gallery and i would really appreciate it if i could get some input on it or some more ideas for mods
#3785
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From: mansfield,
TX
I've had my BCP for almost 2 weeks now...
I just upgraded it today with the following:
Thunder Power 3S 1320mah LiPo
8T pinion motor
Heat sinks
All I can say is WOW! It is a TOTALLY different machine. So smooth and less tail jitter, etc. It is A LOT easier to fly like this then it was with the stock motor/battery. I just flew it for about 20 mins on the first ever charge of this battery. I landed to recharge only because it had been flying so long, and I am paranoid about ruining my ~50.00 battery. It still had exactly the same power/response (and rudder trim setting) when I stopped flying as it did when I started. I'm sure I could have easily gone another 5 mins at least...
Of course part of the reason it flies so much better now is because while I was at it, I replaced my main rotor shaft/gear because my gear had a few mangled teeth, which made a clicking noise that bothered me
I also noticed yesterday that my collective was starting to get just a little sticky. When I took it apart tonight, I found that my spindle was ever so slightly bent from some previous crash I'm sure. I replaced it, and now my collective is smooth as silk. It will VERY gently float off the ground, and hover 2mm off the ground with no problem. Before, when it was bent, I would slowly increase throttle to take off, then it would jump up from the ground about 6cm up into the air. It would also occasionally !QUOT!surge!QUOT! up or down a bit while hovering. All of that is gone now.
Oh-yeah, I threw a new set of flat wood blades on it also 'cause the old ones were getting a little beat up.
After the above repairs and upgrades, I spent about 1 hour getting the gain and proportional set just right. Now, it flies like a dream... MUCH better then it ever did when it was new.
If you are a relative beginner to helis like I am, and you are still mostly just hovering and slow FF with the stock battery/motor setup, I strongly recommend you upgrade with similar equipment to mine. I promise you will be glad you did
I also put a new tail motor on it to see how long it lasts. I've heard that going to 11.1v Lipo causes them to burn through tail motors. If it does burn out, I'm going to replace it with the dual motor setup, I think...
I just upgraded it today with the following:
Thunder Power 3S 1320mah LiPo
8T pinion motor
Heat sinks
All I can say is WOW! It is a TOTALLY different machine. So smooth and less tail jitter, etc. It is A LOT easier to fly like this then it was with the stock motor/battery. I just flew it for about 20 mins on the first ever charge of this battery. I landed to recharge only because it had been flying so long, and I am paranoid about ruining my ~50.00 battery. It still had exactly the same power/response (and rudder trim setting) when I stopped flying as it did when I started. I'm sure I could have easily gone another 5 mins at least...
Of course part of the reason it flies so much better now is because while I was at it, I replaced my main rotor shaft/gear because my gear had a few mangled teeth, which made a clicking noise that bothered me
I also noticed yesterday that my collective was starting to get just a little sticky. When I took it apart tonight, I found that my spindle was ever so slightly bent from some previous crash I'm sure. I replaced it, and now my collective is smooth as silk. It will VERY gently float off the ground, and hover 2mm off the ground with no problem. Before, when it was bent, I would slowly increase throttle to take off, then it would jump up from the ground about 6cm up into the air. It would also occasionally !QUOT!surge!QUOT! up or down a bit while hovering. All of that is gone now.Oh-yeah, I threw a new set of flat wood blades on it also 'cause the old ones were getting a little beat up.
After the above repairs and upgrades, I spent about 1 hour getting the gain and proportional set just right. Now, it flies like a dream... MUCH better then it ever did when it was new.
If you are a relative beginner to helis like I am, and you are still mostly just hovering and slow FF with the stock battery/motor setup, I strongly recommend you upgrade with similar equipment to mine. I promise you will be glad you did

I also put a new tail motor on it to see how long it lasts. I've heard that going to 11.1v Lipo causes them to burn through tail motors. If it does burn out, I'm going to replace it with the dual motor setup, I think...
#3787
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Well, I can't believe it but with all your help and I can't say thank you enough I have hovered for 5 minutes without problem. Then a few minutes more and I set it down due to excitment [X(] .... I can tell the landing gear is giving me a weight gain but my advice to anyone who wants to learn to fly this thing is GET THE TRAINING GEAR..... I followed a few things that helped me a ton.... everyone on this site that has been helping me (BOB).. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You....... A [link=http://runryder.com/helicopter/t244675p1/]Video[/link] link posted on this site that shows all how to setup the little thing and radds school of flight tutorial.... I am just so darn excited words can not express the feeling.... To all new pilots out there don't give up keep trying and baby steps is the key. Thank you all again for dealing with me and helping me get this thing in the air...
Thank You,
Thank You,
#3788
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From: mansfield,
TX
ORIGINAL: bladeCX1464
hey i been working on my gallery and profile ive put 2 pics of my cx in my gallery and i would really appreciate it if i could get some input on it or some more ideas for mods
hey i been working on my gallery and profile ive put 2 pics of my cx in my gallery and i would really appreciate it if i could get some input on it or some more ideas for mods
From what I could tell from those tiny pics, I think your CX looks awesome! It looks just like a BCP almost. Makes me want to get a CX, and do the same mod so I will have a 'set'

You should put some larger pics up there so we can get a better look!
#3789
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
ORIGINAL: jason641
my blade cp won't fly very high. Max height is 2 feet. can anybody help? thankyou
my blade cp won't fly very high. Max height is 2 feet. can anybody help? thankyou
BFBCAcid
#3790
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From: mansfield,
TX
ORIGINAL: bfbcacid
Well, I can't believe it but with all your help and I can't say thank you enough I have hovered for 5 minutes without problem. Then a few minutes more and I set it down due to excitment [X(] .... I can tell the landing gear is giving me a weight gain but my advice to anyone who wants to learn to fly this thing is GET THE TRAINING GEAR..... I followed a few things that helped me a ton.... everyone on this site that has been helping me (BOB).. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You....... A [link=http://runryder.com/helicopter/t244675p1/]Video[/link] link posted on this site that shows all how to setup the little thing and radds school of flight tutorial.... I am just so darn excited words can not express the feeling.... To all new pilots out there don't give up keep trying and baby steps is the key. Thank you all again for dealing with me and helping me get this thing in the air...
Thank You,
Well, I can't believe it but with all your help and I can't say thank you enough I have hovered for 5 minutes without problem. Then a few minutes more and I set it down due to excitment [X(] .... I can tell the landing gear is giving me a weight gain but my advice to anyone who wants to learn to fly this thing is GET THE TRAINING GEAR..... I followed a few things that helped me a ton.... everyone on this site that has been helping me (BOB).. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You....... A [link=http://runryder.com/helicopter/t244675p1/]Video[/link] link posted on this site that shows all how to setup the little thing and radds school of flight tutorial.... I am just so darn excited words can not express the feeling.... To all new pilots out there don't give up keep trying and baby steps is the key. Thank you all again for dealing with me and helping me get this thing in the air...
Thank You,
Congrats man! I know EXACTLY how you feel. Don't worry, you will get this same exact feeling again very soon. The first time you hover a whole pack without even almost crashing once
The MINUTE you do that, please post here letting us know... Lots of other people are going through the same sort of pain that you experienced right now, and it is always nice to hear about someone working through it and making progress.I was able to hover a full pack with relative confidence after about 3 days with the BCP, but I attribute that to the fact that I started with a Lama2, and waited until I could fly it pretty well before getting a BCP. Also, I think I lucked out, and got one that was fairly well trimmed, etc. from the factory. It flew pretty well right out of the box until that first fight with the ground.
#3791
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From: mansfield,
TX
ORIGINAL: jason641
my blade cp won't fly very high. Max height is 2 feet. can anybody help? thankyou
my blade cp won't fly very high. Max height is 2 feet. can anybody help? thankyou
Well, assuming it is new, and hasn't been crashed. Also assuming you are using the stock (blue) battery and charger, then I would suggest you check two things:
1. Move your throttle trim up about 1/2 way (centered) or possibly a little higher if necessary before you try to take off.
2. Is your battery fully charged? The manual says it will take the stock charger about 2.5hrs. to charge it, I believe. I found that it actually takes it about 3.5hrs. If you have a Nimh peak charger, use that instead. If you only have the stock charger, then plug it in, and check it about every 15 mins once it has charged for a couple of hours. Don't disconnect it until you feel the battery starting to get a little warm. Don't let it get too hot, however. Once it feel just a bit warm to the touch, it is fully charged 'or close', and ready to use.
#3792
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
I hope to pass along my trials and tribulations because I think it will help other new pilots knowing how others feel and are having the same problems. Plus, this community has treated me as a member and helped me right from the start so I hope to be able to help others someday to keep the community growing. I plan to hover that pack soon but will not push my luck
just keep telling myself baby steps baby steps.... LOL
BFBCAcid
just keep telling myself baby steps baby steps.... LOLBFBCAcid
#3793
Senior Member
Zooland1
I don't have a problem with sticky collictive. The 1/8 in play is when I grab both blade grips
and pull out on them. I did get a new 4n1 and batt. so I may check my spindle and main shaft.
I will reset up the swash linkage and servo's,retrack me blades also. I noticed with new batt
(stock one) with the same voltage after charging I have more head speed.
I am still adjusting new 4n1. My bird has the same behavior with new 4n1. On the pad
the nose wants to go right, but once airborne it turns sharply to the left. I hope to
have some time with it today. Any suggestions?? Atleast my servos all center now.
Bob
dignlivn
#3794
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
ORIGINAL: dignlivn
On the pad the nose wants to go right, but once airborne it turns sharply to the left.
Bob
dignlivn
On the pad the nose wants to go right, but once airborne it turns sharply to the left.
Bob
dignlivn
Now this is funny you get me airborne and I am responding to you.... While you were giving me all the instruction on getting my bird in the air. My CP was doing the same thing. I must have adjusted gain and propor a million times and still swing right on floor and Wham! Left in air. I just kept messing with gain and propor until I guess I got lucky. I am a beginner so take this advice for what its worth but once I hit some sort of sweet spot between the two pots it flew like a whole new bird.... Hope this helps.
BFBCAcid
#3795
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
I have a question.... I am thinking about buying the [link=http://www.helihobby.com/html/eflight_blade_cp.html]All-Metal Bell-Hiller Head System for CP2 Blade CP [/link] . I believe this will increase stability and performance as well as remove any problems with the sticky problems that may come up again. Please let me know if anyone is fimiliar or recommends this.
Thank You,
BFBCAcid
Thank You,
BFBCAcid
#3796
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From: Orlando,
FL
Yeah that metal head looks sweet. But i think it would be best to get the one below. The All-Metal Bell-Hiller Head System would make it more responsive and stronger too. I did my first fff today. Ive had the cp for bout a month now and i felt my skills were good enough to try and do some forward flight and some turns. I went to by the airport here in orlando. A lot of rc fliers go there. Huge open space where they train truck drivers. It was very windy, bout 10 mph or little more, but it just suddenly died. So i set up the cp and took off. Wow! This little heli flies so great. I flew until it started to loose power. I did forward flight and fast forward and some figure eights. Im glad i waited this long untill i felt my skills were enough to not crash it into a million pieces. Cant wait to go out and fly it again.
#3797
navihawk,
I live near the OIA, is that the airport you are referring to? I am waiting for Graves to get the BCPPro, I have a deposit on one, so I won't be going any time soon. They told me one or two weeks yesterday. But I would like to know where you fly for future reference. Thanks.
Ha, I posted this and noticed that I was labeled a Super Contributor! Must be because I've read every post on all 152 pages!
I live near the OIA, is that the airport you are referring to? I am waiting for Graves to get the BCPPro, I have a deposit on one, so I won't be going any time soon. They told me one or two weeks yesterday. But I would like to know where you fly for future reference. Thanks.
Ha, I posted this and noticed that I was labeled a Super Contributor! Must be because I've read every post on all 152 pages!
#3798
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From: Orlando,
FL
Hello orlbuzz. Yeah right behind OIA. You know where the big empty cemented areas are at. Past the baseball fields, where the truck drivers practice. Right there. I used to go fly there with my skypilot and there would always be a couple of guys out there flying. Specially on sundays it gets pretty packed. I haden't gone for about 4 months and when i went back today I noticed on this little bench that it had written MCO RC CLUB so i guess the guys must of have started a club or something. Its the fields to the right of the continental hangar and behind the post office.
#3799
Senior Member
bfbcacid
Thanks for that! I spent at least 6 trips un doing the canopy and adjusting tonight. I am getting
this NEW 4n1 close, but i'm still not happy but thats what makes it a challenge. I still hate the tail
set up ( stock one ) on these birds.
Zoo
Is it possible to have tooo much + pitch ?? i don't have a pitch gauge (yet)
or that may be one of my problems.
Bob
dignlivn
#3800
Senior Member
orlbuzz
You guys are killing me, flying at Mcoy AFB (OIA) Well thats what it use to be. I take it
you are flying at the south end?
Bob still not a super contributor/Oh well
dignlivn


