E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#4576
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
It's sort of like a volume control or a sensitivity control. On the G90 there are 2 modes, head lock and standard rate. If you are not using the radio remote gain feature, the pot on the gyro sets the gain and the mode. if you are using the remote gain feature the pot on the gyro is disabled.
Do you need instructions on the use of the gain, or are you asking for theoretical reasons? I mean, "how does this work" can be answered many different ways, depending on whether you want to build a new one, sell one to somebody, or use one....
Do you need instructions on the use of the gain, or are you asking for theoretical reasons? I mean, "how does this work" can be answered many different ways, depending on whether you want to build a new one, sell one to somebody, or use one....
#4577
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From: New York,
NY
Ok, well thanks? I know about negative and positive shift. But does the JR 7202 have the ability to shift between the two? Im somewhat new to this, I have been flying off and on for a few years, but if you just give me some input I learn pretty well. I was under the impression the JR7202 CAN work with the Blade CP. I was just curious if anyone knew if this was so.
#4578
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
Well, the shift must be compatible.
Are you wanting to use the TX only or the receiver as well? If you use the receiver as well as the tx we can probably get you set up, but I think using the TX with the stock rx is going to be hard.
Your 7202 can do 3-servo eccpm mixing, right?
The CP as opposed to the CPPro, has an integrated 4-in-1 unit combining the rx, the gyro, the mixer, and the escs for main and tail. There is a hack to separate the rx but there is a better way too.
Are you wanting to use the TX only or the receiver as well? If you use the receiver as well as the tx we can probably get you set up, but I think using the TX with the stock rx is going to be hard.
Your 7202 can do 3-servo eccpm mixing, right?
The CP as opposed to the CPPro, has an integrated 4-in-1 unit combining the rx, the gyro, the mixer, and the escs for main and tail. There is a hack to separate the rx but there is a better way too.
#4579
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From: New York,
NY
I WAS planning on using the TX with the stock RX... that isnt possible then? The 7202 can do 3-Servo exxpm mixing. My Futaba Tx can control the stock Rx but the JR isnt working the same. I know the Futaba is negative shift and so is the unit on the Blade CP most likely. I just wasnt sure if the PCM JR-7202 could switch between positive and negative shift.
#4580
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
you _might_ be able to get it to work, There is an issue involving the arming of the throttle esc in the 4-in-1, it depends on unknown factors. So if your eccpm mix isn't set just right the servos will move but the escs won't arm.
If you can get past this problem then you might be able to use it like you want.
If you can get past this problem then you might be able to use it like you want.
#4582
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
The CPPro has a separate normal 6-channel EFlite rx and a"3-in-1" mixer/gyro/dual esc unit. It is easier to set that heli up with a different receiver, but it has the same issue with the transmitter, if you want to use a different transmitter with the stock rx the arming/reversing/ccpm mix problem comes up again but in a different form. I think it is easier to solve though, I know of some folks who are using Futabas and JRs with the BCPP but I do not know the specifics.
I just put a DX6/AR6000 in mine, no more problems.
I just put a DX6/AR6000 in mine, no more problems.
#4583
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I'm flying an Eflite CP 4-in-1 in my Walkera Dragonfly 4, using a Hitec Flash 5 transmitter. (it doesn't need CCPM)
I needed the positive Expo to overcome the sluggish response of the heli.
Any aftermarket transmitter will need 120 degree CCPM mixing, as wall as the proper shift.. negative, for the Eflite receiver.
I'm using a Berg 7-channel receiver in my Blade CP, with the Eflite transmitter.
I needed the positive Expo to overcome the sluggish response of the heli.
Any aftermarket transmitter will need 120 degree CCPM mixing, as wall as the proper shift.. negative, for the Eflite receiver.
I'm using a Berg 7-channel receiver in my Blade CP, with the Eflite transmitter.
#4584
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From: Woodslee,
ON, CANADA
New guy on the block. I got a BCP for Christmas, and I have no rc experience. I found about 10 guys who fly helis in my area, trouble is trying to get ahold of them. I do have one question right now tho...When I took the BCP out of the box the main blades were folded back (obviously). When I straighten them, how do I know if they're in the right position before tightening them??
Robin.
Robin.
#4585
Senior Member
Don't "tighten" them!
They need to be somewhat slack in the grips so they can fold when (not if) they hit something!
The centrifugal force of rotation will move the blades into the proper position when powered up.
And try this...
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/index.html
And all about how and what to fix:
http://bladecprepair.com/index.html
They need to be somewhat slack in the grips so they can fold when (not if) they hit something!
The centrifugal force of rotation will move the blades into the proper position when powered up.
And try this...
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/index.html
And all about how and what to fix:
http://bladecprepair.com/index.html
#4587
I'll try to catch up here.
First--Bob--as is normal with me and nitro, I didn't get to fly the new plane yet. Rain and electronics don't play well together. I'm hoping the weather will be clear this weekend so I can get the C30 up too. Congrats on the pro. I haven't actually flown one myself, but from what I've seen it's a totally new animal.
Ghaws--in order to use JR equipment you'll have to replace the receiver half of the 4-in-1 with a positive shift. The stock Rx is compatable with Futaba and Hitec.
Roundrobin--welcome to the insanity. Tighten the blades only to the point that if you rap them with a finger they move about two inches. Too loose and they just flop up and down. Too tight and they won't track. Also do yourself a huge favor and get a good simulator. Both Realflight and FS One are $169 right now, they will save you a fortune in replacement parts and psychiatric care.
First--Bob--as is normal with me and nitro, I didn't get to fly the new plane yet. Rain and electronics don't play well together. I'm hoping the weather will be clear this weekend so I can get the C30 up too. Congrats on the pro. I haven't actually flown one myself, but from what I've seen it's a totally new animal.
Ghaws--in order to use JR equipment you'll have to replace the receiver half of the 4-in-1 with a positive shift. The stock Rx is compatable with Futaba and Hitec.
Roundrobin--welcome to the insanity. Tighten the blades only to the point that if you rap them with a finger they move about two inches. Too loose and they just flop up and down. Too tight and they won't track. Also do yourself a huge favor and get a good simulator. Both Realflight and FS One are $169 right now, they will save you a fortune in replacement parts and psychiatric care.
#4588
Senior Member
Zooland1
Yeah the B.H. makes the Pro respond
quicker than the CP. Haven't quite got
the Prop. dialed in yet. The Weather
should improve for day or so here ?
I can see the need for a New radio in
my near future.
Bob
dignlivn
#4589
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From: Orlando,
FL
Have a question. I have a dx6 radio and a stock blade cp. Shouldor can i buy the pro 3 in 1 and use that, or just use the stock cp 4 in 1? Is it difficult to remove the reciever part of the 4 in 1 to put in the dx6 reciever?
#4591
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
Happy New Year everyone!
Hey, anyone here interested in how to mod the HeliDirect CNC center hub to work with the CP? It is definitely worth the effort (I speak from experience). No slop, no sticky collective and seems to be fairly crash resistant. Not to mention you dont need any shims added to the spindle to tighten it up. Very solid.
One thing tho...I did find a fix to the problem of loose tolerances when mounting it to the main shaft. A friend of mine also had problems when installing his MH beauuuutiful CNC BH Head.
Simply place a drop of MEDIUM (or low strength if you can find it) loctite in the shaft hole in the head (if the hole is bored through into the spindle shaft opening just use a piece of heat shrink tubing or whatever stuffed in there to keep the loctite from gumming up the works) and mount the head on the shaft WHILE HOLDING HELI UPSIDE DOWN!! This keeps the excess loctite from running down into the swash. Just clean up the stuff that runs out with a paper towel or whatever. True up the head as much as possible and set the heli somewhere upside down over night for the loctite to cure. This really works! The loctite serves to take up the slack in tolerances and if you need to remove the head after 'custom bending' a mainshaft just pop off the grips and slide a screwdriver or similar through the spindle hole and twist the main gear and head in oppossite directions after loosening the grub screws. The cured loctite seems to crumble and, for the most part, clean itself out. I have already had to change a few mainshafts and I havn't had any probs. Yet...He he.
Just make sure you dont use anything stronger than medium grade. My friend used the high strength and wound up having to cut the shaft to get a new one in. Oh yeah, he never did get the shaft out of the Micro Heli head and gave it to me!!!! Needless to say I was laughing all the way to the heat gun lol!!! Can't beat free shiny blue parts!!!
Hey, anyone here interested in how to mod the HeliDirect CNC center hub to work with the CP? It is definitely worth the effort (I speak from experience). No slop, no sticky collective and seems to be fairly crash resistant. Not to mention you dont need any shims added to the spindle to tighten it up. Very solid.
One thing tho...I did find a fix to the problem of loose tolerances when mounting it to the main shaft. A friend of mine also had problems when installing his MH beauuuutiful CNC BH Head.
Simply place a drop of MEDIUM (or low strength if you can find it) loctite in the shaft hole in the head (if the hole is bored through into the spindle shaft opening just use a piece of heat shrink tubing or whatever stuffed in there to keep the loctite from gumming up the works) and mount the head on the shaft WHILE HOLDING HELI UPSIDE DOWN!! This keeps the excess loctite from running down into the swash. Just clean up the stuff that runs out with a paper towel or whatever. True up the head as much as possible and set the heli somewhere upside down over night for the loctite to cure. This really works! The loctite serves to take up the slack in tolerances and if you need to remove the head after 'custom bending' a mainshaft just pop off the grips and slide a screwdriver or similar through the spindle hole and twist the main gear and head in oppossite directions after loosening the grub screws. The cured loctite seems to crumble and, for the most part, clean itself out. I have already had to change a few mainshafts and I havn't had any probs. Yet...He he.
Just make sure you dont use anything stronger than medium grade. My friend used the high strength and wound up having to cut the shaft to get a new one in. Oh yeah, he never did get the shaft out of the Micro Heli head and gave it to me!!!! Needless to say I was laughing all the way to the heat gun lol!!! Can't beat free shiny blue parts!!!
#4592
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
Not the best quality pic but you get the idea...
The receiver pic is for the last post question. Gives you an idea how it looks and how to mod for an ESC. Found it on here somewheres I think but cant remember exactly where. Credit goes to the original poster of course.
The receiver pic is for the last post question. Gives you an idea how it looks and how to mod for an ESC. Found it on here somewheres I think but cant remember exactly where. Credit goes to the original poster of course.
#4593
Senior Member
navihawk
You can seperate the Rx on the
BCP 4n1. they plug together in the
middle. Not sure about the DX6 stuff,
so i'll defer to Zooland or orlbuzz or
anybody else.
Bob
dignlivn
You can seperate the Rx on the
BCP 4n1. they plug together in the
middle. Not sure about the DX6 stuff,
so i'll defer to Zooland or orlbuzz or
anybody else.
Bob
dignlivn
#4594
Senior Member
Spektrum DX-6 into a Blade CP...
The DX-7 transmitter is a better choice than the DX-6.. it permits enhanced EXP, to overcome the sluggish response of the Blade. More control response around neutral.
The DX-6 only lets you go softer with EXP.
And I've been playing with a flat pitch curve. Pitch is constant at 65% for the full throttle travel. Makes it just a bit less squirrely.
Easy to do with the DX-7, since you can see the pitch curve.
The DX-7 transmitter is a better choice than the DX-6.. it permits enhanced EXP, to overcome the sluggish response of the Blade. More control response around neutral.
The DX-6 only lets you go softer with EXP.
And I've been playing with a flat pitch curve. Pitch is constant at 65% for the full throttle travel. Makes it just a bit less squirrely.
Easy to do with the DX-7, since you can see the pitch curve.
#4595
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From: New York,
NY
What kind of Rx can I get that will be small enough to replace the origional in the 4-in-1? I need it to be positive shift so it can work with my JR7202 Controller.
#4596
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
GHawsJR
I picked up one of these a while back but havn't used it yet. Don't know how well it works but it's pretty small and mine came with the crystal of my choice as well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...99&refid=store
I'm sure you can find it cheaper though. This was just the first pic I found on a quick search.
I picked up one of these a while back but havn't used it yet. Don't know how well it works but it's pretty small and mine came with the crystal of my choice as well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...99&refid=store
I'm sure you can find it cheaper though. This was just the first pic I found on a quick search.
#4597
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From: New York,
NY
So something like that will actuialy allow you to change the reciever inside the 4-in-1 unit of the blade cp? Will it then work with my JR 7202 no problem? Also, is it possible to do the change on the Blade CX? What about the CX2 could you take the DSM reciever out and put in a Micro FM or PCM reciever so I could use my JR controller? I like some of those heli's but honestly I hate having a million controllers... thats why i got the JR7202!
#4598
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
I honestly am getting ready to do the swap. I have an older jrxp652 and thats why I picked up the gws receiver. The receiver in the 4in1 is removeable and the pins you see plugging into the gyro and esc are the throttle and rudder channels. Its just a plain ol 6ch receiver they mated up to the esc. In the 3in1 they have made them easily seperable.
One note..If you want to use an aftermarket esc of some sort all you need to do is tap into the throttle channel of the receiver while still allowing the receiver to plug into the gyro esc and y into the power for the seperate esc. Very simple if you are handy with a soldering iron, potentially very bad if you aren't. Be sure to tap only into the signal and ground of the receiver if your separate esc has an bec cirquit. the receiver will still get its power from the original gyro and esc.
One note..If you want to use an aftermarket esc of some sort all you need to do is tap into the throttle channel of the receiver while still allowing the receiver to plug into the gyro esc and y into the power for the seperate esc. Very simple if you are handy with a soldering iron, potentially very bad if you aren't. Be sure to tap only into the signal and ground of the receiver if your separate esc has an bec cirquit. the receiver will still get its power from the original gyro and esc.
#4600
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From: Orlando,
FL
Ok so i would need to get a new esc in order to put the dx6 reciever in it, or just 2 servo extensions? Or how do it get it to "plug" into the 3 in 1? Yes i agree the dx7 is way way way better! But i just got my dx6 bout 3 months ago before horizon made any announcements of the dx7 so im stuck with it or i can plunk down 350 bucks? No way id rather use that on a trex which i am planning to lol. Sucks that the new small reciever will only work with the dx7, what kinda of rip off is that, oh well, as everyone says this is an expensive hobby.


