E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#4751
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From: Thousand Oaks,
CA
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
Larger heli's, more weight, wider main blades, and a good setup equal a very stable platform that is less prone to effects of light winds. Just like in planks...bigger the motor, the more wing area, the easier to fly. The .40 sized nitros are a good trainer because you have the bigger motor and the wing area working with you. The setup is also important....proper CG, proper trim and if you built it, the alignment of the main wings to the tail wings are very important. It would mean the difference between a good flying airplane or an expensive yard dart.
ORIGINAL: mrasmm
yeah i would agree with what was said. SSG scott got hs cp2 to hover like 17 sec with no input from the controller. Like crash said it's all about no wind and perfect setup, balance, trims, cg, tracking, ect ect ect. But overall I think the raptor 90 pilot you were talking to was probably bragging to make himself feel cool =) hehe, we all do it from time to time.
yeah i would agree with what was said. SSG scott got hs cp2 to hover like 17 sec with no input from the controller. Like crash said it's all about no wind and perfect setup, balance, trims, cg, tracking, ect ect ect. But overall I think the raptor 90 pilot you were talking to was probably bragging to make himself feel cool =) hehe, we all do it from time to time.
Larger heli's, more weight, wider main blades, and a good setup equal a very stable platform that is less prone to effects of light winds. Just like in planks...bigger the motor, the more wing area, the easier to fly. The .40 sized nitros are a good trainer because you have the bigger motor and the wing area working with you. The setup is also important....proper CG, proper trim and if you built it, the alignment of the main wings to the tail wings are very important. It would mean the difference between a good flying airplane or an expensive yard dart.
#4752
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From: Waunakee,
WI
[:@][:@]
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
#4753
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From: St Louis,
MI
ORIGINAL: fiveoboy01
[:@][:@]
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
[:@][:@]
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
Sounds like maybe a stripped servo or two....start there. If you've had a couple hard landings....those S-75's cant take much abuse and they're junk. CAREFULLY....unhook each servo (power off) from the swash and cycle the servo arm gently by hand full stroke each way. If you feel ratcheting....it's junk.
#4754
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
honestly if it isn't messing with your cyclic, and only the collective, chances are it's not electronic or glitching. For it to be electronic they would all have to be glitching, and all at the exact same time and in the same direction at the same speed. Something that given the nature of electronics is not very likely at all.
One other thing to check if you are sure there is no binding in the head, check out the mainshaft collar and make sure that it is well seated and the main shaft doesn't go up and down. ALso check the screws on the mixer arms and make sure that they are not too tight. when you flick your flybar it should bounce up and down 2 or 3 times if it's got a nice loose motion.
About the cp+ vs the pro, it might not have a seperate recever and 3 in 1, and the other thing might be the transmitter. The pro Tx has a pitch curve knob on it and also a ch5 rotary knob.
One other thing to check if you are sure there is no binding in the head, check out the mainshaft collar and make sure that it is well seated and the main shaft doesn't go up and down. ALso check the screws on the mixer arms and make sure that they are not too tight. when you flick your flybar it should bounce up and down 2 or 3 times if it's got a nice loose motion.
About the cp+ vs the pro, it might not have a seperate recever and 3 in 1, and the other thing might be the transmitter. The pro Tx has a pitch curve knob on it and also a ch5 rotary knob.
#4755
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From: Waunakee,
WI
I hate to argue, but I guarantee this is an electronic issue and not a mechanical one.
I can hold the heli, flip it to idle up mode, and it starts bouncing up and down rapidly in my hand. The servos are working themselves. I can tell what an electronic glitch is and this is one.
I might just hit the LHS tomorrow and get a Spektrum Rx and set it up with my DX7.
I can hold the heli, flip it to idle up mode, and it starts bouncing up and down rapidly in my hand. The servos are working themselves. I can tell what an electronic glitch is and this is one.
I might just hit the LHS tomorrow and get a Spektrum Rx and set it up with my DX7.
#4756
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
alrighty, well whatever works. You are the one that is there watching the heli do it's thing =) GL finding out whatever the problem is [8D]
#4757
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From: Waunakee,
WI
Didn't mean to come across the wrong way. I'm simply irritable.
As an idea I took the heatsink off the main motor thinking it might be rubbing and causing some metal-to-metal deal.
NOW the heli won't even lift off. I've got way more negative than positive collective pitch.
I don't get it, I never touched the radio or turned it on through the whole dis-assembly and assembly process. I checked e-flites website fof a picture of the head and everything is together correctly.
Sigh.
As an idea I took the heatsink off the main motor thinking it might be rubbing and causing some metal-to-metal deal.
NOW the heli won't even lift off. I've got way more negative than positive collective pitch.
I don't get it, I never touched the radio or turned it on through the whole dis-assembly and assembly process. I checked e-flites website fof a picture of the head and everything is together correctly.
Sigh.
#4758
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From: , CA
NOW the heli won't even lift off. I've got way more negative than positive collective pitch.
#4759
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From: Waunakee,
WI
Thanks, I looked at it like 10 times and everything appeared to be in the right spot, compared to the diagram and pictures.
In any case, it's on it's way to Horizon. The tech I spoke with said it sounds like a Tx/Rx issue. He said it will likely be warranty work.
In any case, it's on it's way to Horizon. The tech I spoke with said it sounds like a Tx/Rx issue. He said it will likely be warranty work.
#4760
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From: Waunakee,
WI
Anyone know if there's a set-up sheet floating around anywhere for the BCCP with a DX7?
I'm thinking after I get it back I might just spring for an AR6100 and set it up with a better radio.
I'm thinking after I get it back I might just spring for an AR6100 and set it up with a better radio.
#4761
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From: Lawrenceburg,
IN
Weight question on the Blade CP Pro - I'm running a brushless motor set-up with dual tail motors and was thinking of buying the CNC Precision Aluminium Main Frame (Part # MH-DP001SE) from HeliHobby and using a titanium tail boom from Super-Skids along with their Super-Skids landing gear. I have the original plastic rotor head. Does anyone know if this will be too much weight for the Blade CP Pro? I had a boom blade strike last night that busted my boom and the back end of the plastic frame separated. I've wanted to try the aluminum frame and was thinking this would be my chance, but was just wondering about the weight.
#4762
The frame is kind of heavy and I don't think SuperSkids will fit it. If you're doing 3D flying or just very concerned about weight, the SuperSkids3D and SuperBoom and stock frame would work.
#4763
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
yeah, it definatley depends on what kind of flying you want to do. If you want to do more scale flying, with a 4100kv motor, I've seen them up to about 460g or so, which is about 160g over stock =)
I think it would work just fine, you just wont be able to fly anything too crazy, especially anything 3d
I think it would work just fine, you just wont be able to fly anything too crazy, especially anything 3d
#4765
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From: Edmonds, WA
Howdy all, glad to see all the great discussions on my newly chosen hobby. 
That said, does anyone have any opinions for a comparison between a CP+ and a CP Pro?
With a lot of patience and sim training, I'm considering either of these for my starter heli. Yes, I expect to crash even though I'm a cautious, patient, yet quick learner. However, I expect my patience will pay off because I know I'll become quickly bored with a beginner heli (e.g. fixed pitch). I've already decided on E-Flite because of their reputation, the many articles I've read, and forum postings here. I'm drawn to the CP+ but am considering the CP Pro, but I'd rather err on the side of caution and it "seems" that the CP+ might be the better option for now.
Comments? Suggestions?
PS Suggestions on a quality--and hopefully inexpensive--trainer app would be welcome as well, especially if it'll help with a CP model.
Regards, SD

That said, does anyone have any opinions for a comparison between a CP+ and a CP Pro?
With a lot of patience and sim training, I'm considering either of these for my starter heli. Yes, I expect to crash even though I'm a cautious, patient, yet quick learner. However, I expect my patience will pay off because I know I'll become quickly bored with a beginner heli (e.g. fixed pitch). I've already decided on E-Flite because of their reputation, the many articles I've read, and forum postings here. I'm drawn to the CP+ but am considering the CP Pro, but I'd rather err on the side of caution and it "seems" that the CP+ might be the better option for now.
Comments? Suggestions?
PS Suggestions on a quality--and hopefully inexpensive--trainer app would be welcome as well, especially if it'll help with a CP model.

Regards, SD
#4767
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
ORIGINAL: SiliconDragon
Howdy all, glad to see all the great discussions on my newly chosen hobby.
That said, does anyone have any opinions for a comparison between a CP+ and a CP Pro?
With a lot of patience and sim training, I'm considering either of these for my starter heli. Yes, I expect to crash even though I'm a cautious, patient, yet quick learner. However, I expect my patience will pay off because I know I'll become quickly bored with a beginner heli (e.g. fixed pitch). I've already decided on E-Flite because of their reputation, the many articles I've read, and forum postings here. I'm drawn to the CP+ but am considering the CP Pro, but I'd rather err on the side of caution and it "seems" that the CP+ might be the better option for now.
Comments? Suggestions?
PS Suggestions on a quality--and hopefully inexpensive--trainer app would be welcome as well, especially if it'll help with a CP model.
Regards, SD
Howdy all, glad to see all the great discussions on my newly chosen hobby.

That said, does anyone have any opinions for a comparison between a CP+ and a CP Pro?
With a lot of patience and sim training, I'm considering either of these for my starter heli. Yes, I expect to crash even though I'm a cautious, patient, yet quick learner. However, I expect my patience will pay off because I know I'll become quickly bored with a beginner heli (e.g. fixed pitch). I've already decided on E-Flite because of their reputation, the many articles I've read, and forum postings here. I'm drawn to the CP+ but am considering the CP Pro, but I'd rather err on the side of caution and it "seems" that the CP+ might be the better option for now.
Comments? Suggestions?
PS Suggestions on a quality--and hopefully inexpensive--trainer app would be welcome as well, especially if it'll help with a CP model.

Regards, SD
lol, how'd you get that impression =P there have been alot of negative posts on here lately
the difference between the cp+ and the cpp is 2 fold, the bell-hiller mixer on the cpp vs the hiller on the cp+ (slower response times on the second, which some people find harder to fly and some people find easier), and the remotr gyro gain knob on the cpp vs no knob on the cp+ =)
look for esky usb simulator on ebay they run about 20 to 30 bucks, and that will help, or you could look up clearview for about $60 or so, those are the cheapest ones, most of the rest are in the $200 range.
oh, welcome to RCU!
#4768
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From: , CA
I'm so frustrated! After much sim time and may hours of stick time since Christmas, I can now hover with reasonable control through a battery... The frustration come from trying to increase altitude to ~5 feet the servos start glitching causing the the copter to instantaneously hop up a foot or two then back down rattling my nerves and making it VERY difficult to control. I have tried to make sure that the x-mitter antenna is vertical which helps a bit but not completely.... trying to see if it need to be sent back to Horizon... any experience or suggestions?
Jordan
Jordan
#4771
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From: Lake Norman,
NC
ORIGINAL: fiveoboy01
Thanks, I looked at it like 10 times and everything appeared to be in the right spot, compared to the diagram and pictures.
In any case, it's on it's way to Horizon. The tech I spoke with said it sounds like a Tx/Rx issue. He said it will likely be warranty work.
Thanks, I looked at it like 10 times and everything appeared to be in the right spot, compared to the diagram and pictures.
In any case, it's on it's way to Horizon. The tech I spoke with said it sounds like a Tx/Rx issue. He said it will likely be warranty work.
Thanks
#4772
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From: , CT
ORIGINAL: fiveoboy01
[:@][:@]
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
[:@][:@]
Did the fix for the sticking collective. No difference, and I suspected that it wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe I did not explain it right but the heli is jumping around without ANY stick input. Also I now do notice the tail rotor goes berserk when the collective starts jumping up and down.
It seems to only do it at high head speed(I fly in idle up mode), if I give full negative collective it stops twitching around but as I bring it back to zero pitch it starts jumping again.
This is an electronic problem having nothing to do with the sticking collective, though I'm glad I went ahead and did the mod anyways.
Anyone have any ideas? Tx batteries are brand new, I changed them just in case.
The mainshaft also looked like there was a slight wobble at the very top of the rotor head so I removed it to check. Straight as a string.
Fiveboy, how old is your Heli, was it easy to convince the tech for warranty work, and will it be free??
#4774
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From: , CA
I go through tail rotor motors like kleenex (~2-3 hours/motor). I am using a g90 gyro. Does anyone else go through at this rate? Interesting enough, I am starting to see that my 'glitching' problem starts up a flight or two before the motor goes bad. Finally I am seeing a correlation! Perhaps the brushes start arcing so bad and it is running at full current to maintain position that the noise overloads the filter caps and transfers to the 3-in-one? anyone else see the same effect?
Jordan
Jordan
#4775
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From: , CT
All of my glitching was a result of poor antenna placement. My antenna was routed very near the 3-1 power leads, and then in a straw along side the tail boom. I moved the antenna back to stock position and glitching disappeared completely. I think if your antenna is in close prox to your motor power leads then perhaps increased current due to a bad motor could cause glitching. I do not have a hh gyro (one is on the way!) but i have heard that strong hh kills the motors faster. i have been flying for nearly a month, at least 3 batteries a day, just hovering, and I have not killed a tail motor yet, but a main did die the other day (but this was a bushing failure).



