ORIGINAL: hellomynameisdookie

I hate the covering. I take it off every set of blades I purchase. Crap, it comes off on it's own if you even fart too close to it.

What I do is take the covering off and brush in a thin coat of 30 minute epoxy into the blades. You can use 5min but I like the 30min because it has more time to soak into the wood. I let them dry overnight and when it's cured They get sanded down. First I start with 240 grit, then 400, then 600, and finally 1000 grit paper and when they're finished up they're smooth as silk and look awesome.

Finally they get balanced.

With the epoxied blades, when you smack them up they're SOOOO much more durable. The wood will just dent in instead of breaking apart and flying everywhere. They're 1000X easier to repair and last A LOT longer. I've smacked around the set I'm using now at least 10 times (getting brave these days lol) and they blades are still in great shape, all due considering, and still track properly.

ORIGINAL: futura


I just have no luck straightening them once they are bent. Does anyone have some tips on straightening them. Since the gear doesn't come off, its hard to roll on a flat surface so its tough to even find the bend.

ORIGINAL: baddley

Hey

How are you guys doing. As you can tell Iam new to helis. How hard would it be for me to convert over from the stock transmitter to using to Futaba T7CAP. How much is there to it other than switching out the crystal. I am not sue if it would benefit me any or not.

Thanks Scott

ORIGINAL: mustangflyboy

If anyone needs info, I converted to a JR 8103 Tx with GWS reciever. Much better.

ORIGINAL: hdoc

Hi guys-- Have a relatively simple problem.

Converted to a Thunder 1320 Lipo for my blade which gives me more steady flying time than I can deal with in my small garage. The stock NiMgH only lasted 8-10 Min before it "died". I'm well into electronics, and do understand the LPo should not go below
9 Volts, Minium, under load, for fear of shortening its life or worse. The ESC in the blade does not have a Lo Voltage cutoff, as does the "usual" ESC's. I designed a simple circuit with a transistor, resistor, Zener diode, & LED (About $3-$4 total), which should shut off the LED at let's say 9.5 V, which is fine for my dimly lit garage, but don't think it'll be worth-while outside !!

Could use a tiny piezeo alert device, but probably too heavy for the blade. Will have a normal ESC on my T-Rex when I get it. Haven't fully perused the ads, and I know such devices exist for Nitro's.

Meantime, I keep, going & going & going and usually end up with about 11V(No Load) when I feel I should quit. Guess I could just time it but as simple as that is, it really isn't.

Any other ideas?

Lloyd

ORIGINAL: futura

The Esky bell hiller head increases cyclic response dramatically. Its a completely different flying machine with the bell hiller head but the lightened flybar paddles did almost the same thing. Once I put on the BH head I removed the lightened paddles, it was just to touchy for my taste (ability to enjoy). BH heads are worth the $ if you can find one available. Getting a $70 hb2 "sounds" like a good idea but I doubt you will save money going this route (using the HB2 for spares) you don't break all the parts on a heli and the one's you do break don't cost $70 all together. The mainshaft and gear are seperate units on the HB2 and the main shaft is longer. you will then be stuck using the longer control arms. the landing gear are attached by screws so you'll be using the Esky frame and landing gear. the tail boom is glued to the frame so again you'll be swapping out frames if you break the tail boom.

If I were you with $70 to spend, I'd just add another $40 and get the CNC Bell hiller head.

my flybar weights came off after the first week. It did away with almost all of the cyclic delay found in the stock BCP. It doesn't make cyclic fast but its better. I found myself behind in control with the stock setup because I would apply input and it took the BCP a second or more to fully respond then if I over corrected because of the latency, my correction would take too long to apply and so on ie i ended up "chasing" it with the controls. This made it harder to hover inside 3 feet. Once you increase cyclic just a bit, the BCP reacts to your input right away....not a second (5 feet) later and allows you to "fly the heli" not the other way around.

There was not much difference in cyclic response between the lightened flybar paddles and the Bell hiller head without the lightened flybar paddles. The difference was not in cyclic but in how the bell hiller head smooths out the collective. By this I mean that if you can't get the Bell hiller head, get the lighted flybar paddles and you'll get the same cyclic result for the most part. I felt the increase in collective control was one of the biggest advantages of the bell hiller. I don't 3D yet but I have no doubt that with the flybar weights removed, the bell hiller head, the lighted flybar paddles, CF blades and 2200 - 2300 head speed (brushless)......the machine would flip almost in place...same with rolls. It is more unstable than my Duzi Hornet II....BUT....my heli really isn't a BCP anymore.

I'm not that great as far as thumbs go but getting better with time. Others that are better pilots may have different oppinions for sure. This is all just MHO based on observation and my own experience.

I guess my end point is, the BCP will fly very good with just a few changes in the stock configuration and a couple after market upgrades....like lightened paddles, sim blades, lipo battery and 9t motor. If you upgrade too much, your not working with a BCP anymore but a frankenchopper.

ORIGINAL: zooland1
mustangflyboy-please share how you got the 4-in-1 to positive shift. Inquiring minds want to know.