mrasmm,

thanks for the info. I kinda figured I burned up the pack by charging at the wrong charging current. The stock E-Flite Balancing charger that comes with the CX2 (EFLC3110) is rated at 0.65A output, the stock E-Flite Balancing charger that comes with the CP Pro (EFLC3105) is rated at 0.8A output...

stock E-Flight battery specs

Anyone know the max charge current I can use with the stock E-Flite Lipo's without damaging?

Hi Atzanik, it was mrasmm that knew where to get them I was just quoting his previous post. Where did you get them again mrasmm and do they come in symetrical? Rick

Well I did it picked up my T Rex and all the goodies to go with it. Thought about selling the Pro but I think I'm going to keep it for guys wanting to make the jump from the CX2. Can't thank all of you enough for all your help along the way. I'm looking forward to keeping up with all the new stuff you guys are trying. Thanks Again. Mike

Mrasmm,

By your attached post, does that mean your going to go with the Futaba Servos? Just curious.

Heat Problem: I think I'm stumped, you've done so much testing and taking readings of all the test and still run hot. Even with the controller out of the picture and an outside power source. In your pictures, Pic #2, post# 2920, the chip in the upper left hand corner, marked "324 EZ3H526". The third lug from the left, looks weird, maybe a cold soldier joint. Really hard to tell from a picture.

Grasping at Straws: Hmmm, you're really up there in altitude in Utah. That would fall into the equation to a limit, it would take more head speed to get off the ground than it would me, at 738 feet altitude.

Got this off the web researching: One of the three highest states in the union, the Mean Elevation of the state of Utah is 6,100 feet above sea level. Water boiling point at sea level 212, , Indianapolis 210.7, Utah 200.9. Just trivia.

Dave / Choppersrule
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na, I have a computer radio, but it's old and it doesn't do ccpm, so I am on the stock thing. I do have your write up for the 55's from a few pages back. Yeah, the main reason I was saying the 55's were better is because of the tight mesh, and the fact that futaba (although maybe over priced) is very high quality eq and is not likely to fail at all.

Did you have any more idea's on my motor situation?

Mike,

Congrats on the T Rex, good pictues too. Just take your time on the build and enjoy.

Dave / Choppersrule
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here is the link for those blades. They have a good deal more coning than regular blades but other than that they are not bad blades =) I can't remember what they weighed, but I think like 12 or 14g for the two, so just a bit over half of what the woodies weigh. I think they only come in flats, but anyways here is the link
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=158

hehe i guess it will depend all on if I can get her back in the air or not =P

here is another pic of that solder. It does look funny...

yeah, I was wondering the alt too, I would just ask wick, but he hasn't been around for a bit =P I don't know what the exact alt is right where I live, but it's somwehere between 4500ft and 5000ft. That could have something to do with it too....

hrm... the weirdest thing though, I've had 2 or 3 flights that didn't heat up the motor too much.... shesh.... what could cause that =P bah, back to the drawing board.... I wonder if somehow the main bearings could heat up or something, or maybe don't spin quite right at high revs when they spin real smooth at lower speeds or something..... bah, who knows =(

hrm, didn't upload my pic.. I'll try again.

I couldn't find a data sheet on that EZ3H526 part you were talking about anywhere =(

Does anyone else have a way to measure amp draw on their heli? If so what kind of draw are you getting on your main motor on your heli?

Possible N-30 tail motor replacement....The N60:

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product_...a44936b00a1baa

Just an idea and something besides a NC12RCX.

I think that is a good idea. That is what the axe cp uses on it's tail. I do believe you can run a geared system with it, you might even be able to run a DD off of it.

Did you ever have a chance to look at this post?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5861133

mike,

nice purchase... the V2! I see you also got the GY401. Did you also get the S9650.

I absolutely love my TREX 450 SE, so much in fact... I picked up another one the TREX 450 S, again with the GY401 and S9650.

I'm currently selling my CP Pro's, anyone interested in a upgrade kit?

Everything you need to go brushless as outlined in the manual, plus the G90.

Of course, I too will keep one as a sunday flier.

uh oh.... found another toy at the LHS.

a Team Losi Mini T for $99 RTR

good news!!!

I figured it out

not the bearings, not the motor, not the connections, not the head, not the pitch range, not the batteries, not the main shaft or the gear mesh... hrm... I got to thinking, so what does that leave... the blades =) of course =P Anyways I tested the PE foam blades that I have been using and their min draw at 0 pitch @ 8vdc was 2.24A, the JCS plasti were about 2.14 and the stock syms were really low at about 1.46A. I expected the syms to be low, but I didn't know they would be quite that much lower. The PE's from the JCS's though were not alot of difference at 0 pitch, so then I tested hover range amp draw on all the blades, I can't remember what the syms were, the JCS were 2.8A and the PE's were a wopping 4.2A.

Also I dunno what happened to the PE blades, but they were flat when I got them, and now they have a good negative camber to them. Like this but not nearly as extreme http://www.pdc.kth.se:81/pdcttn/sve/...stmesh_200.gif
I wonder if they just mishape in flight or something, cuz the heli hasn't gotten warm. I bet the foam gets compacted on the flat side under the forces the blades exert pushing the air down, which leaves the negative camber. So basically if you want to go with PE's remember to check the camber and get rid of them if they have too much =)

boy I'm glad I figured that out. This heli stuff was driving me bonkers, making me almost ready to throw in the towel because I tried everything I could think of, and I didn't want to throw a whole bunch of money at it to not fix the problem.

I also couldn't believe switching back and forth between the 3 sets of blades how much the pitch angle needed to be changed to get a 0 pitch at center stick in idle up. A good -40% for the syms, 0 for the PE because that's what my system was tuned to, and +40 for the plasti blades. Anyways goes to show if you switch out blades you really need to check the pitch angles because they can vary alot.

Anyways I just got done doing a 25 min test with the plasti blades tuned for 0 pitch at 50% throttle in idle up on a 8vdc power supply. I did 75-80% collective, and the motor after the test was only 103 to 105F So basically I could run that setup as long as the motor would last without it getting any warmer than that =) and I bet the syms would work even better than that.

I'm really glad I got it figured out =) Thanks for everyone who helped!!!

I haven't done a flight test yet, but with this info, I'm pretty sure that it will all work out well.

Crash:
The torquing if the frame was self induced...full right with the eflite swashplate put one helluva twist into the airframe.
Soooooo,

I installed the mH swashplate and on full right stick there was no frame twisting or servo buzzing. A look at the swashplate tells why...capable of a lot more "angle".

I reassembled P-1 with the eflite swashplate but didn't get time to check flying angles.
Ordering another mH autorotation system this week.....nice wide gear and less noisy and it will go to P-1. P-2 has the beginnings of the mH head assembly but not much will be accomplished till this w/e. The CX-2 needs a little adjustment since I went to cnc parts in the rotation department.....just the swashplate, head and bearing cases...still on the standard "bladegrip" system....seen a deal of posts 'bout fancy bladegrips for the CX-2 but I can replace a standard set of blades in a couple of minutes and my motors and all are running nicely, thank you.

Rehearsal this eve and my beautiful Burns Marvin needs some exercise. Playing tomorrow eve too. Saturday I'll be at the track in Charlotte at the end of turn two....gonna be a loooonnnng day there.

ying tong iddle i po.

Blades up...skids down.

R

Well I found out why I had the vibration. It was the spindel that was bent. Crashcrash got me to look closer at the shaft and rotor. I did a tear down to the swash plate and then took the spindel out bent it back checked it if my drill then put it all back together. Amazingly no extra pieces. I spun up the blades and everything runs true. Now if the weather cooperates I might be able to try my first hover. Thanks everyone.

"Did you also get the S9650." Followed the advise of freinds and "Finless" I wanted the best I could get and afford. This set up is rock solid.

Don't bet on weather this week...supposed to be low wind today...it's pretty stout but should drop off between 7:00pm-8:00pm. Good find on the spindel. They're pretty soft and bend at the slightest of hits, like the main rotor shaft.

I've had vibration problems with repaired blades (although not new ones) where the CG was off despite the blades being balanced (i.e. the same weight). See http://www.dream-models.com/eco/Blade_balancing.html. You only need to do the CG of the length of the blade, not the width.

Also check to see if the feathering shaft between the blade grips is bent.

Good luck

How are you getting tracking set when you have a vibration? Those blades HAVE to be balanced both CG and tip to tip. Falt woodies may let you get away with not being blalnced too well......but syms are heavier and also the plastic ones........ more weight on the tip means bigger difference in rotational smoothness.
If the feathering shaft is not bent......then you need to spend the time to balance those blades to as close to perfection as you can get.

I just reread your post................ ummmmmmmmmmmm.......NM.......


__________________________________________________ _________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost.............................................. . I miss my mind the most!

Mrasmm,

Excellent find on the Blades, I never would have thought that deformed blades would cause a motor to overheat..
Put that in the WIKI, Crashcrash said it a while back, when you think you might know what the problem is, it could be a 100 other things, causing it.

Dave / Choppersrule
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good news!!!

I figured it out

not the bearings, not the motor, not the connections, not the head, not the pitch range, not the batteries, not the main shaft or the gear mesh... hrm... I got to thinking, so what does that leave... the blades =) of course =P Anyways I tested the PE foam blades that I have been using and their min draw at 0 pitch @ 8vdc was 2.24A, the JCS plasti were about 2.14 and the stock syms were really low at about 1.46A. I expected the syms to be low, but I didn't know they would be quite that much lower. The PE's from the JCS's though were not alot of difference at 0 pitch, so then I tested hover range amp draw on all the blades, I can't remember what the syms were, the JCS were 2.8A and the PE's were a wopping 4.2A.

New sevos didn't solve the problem. Pulls the servos down during arming and comes back. Then running it wide open the servos pull hard down and I get either a dim green light or flashing between red and green dim light. Down to radio or 3-1. Personally I think it's the radio with it's inherient collective problem I've read about. Either way...$$$...lots of it. I'll try the 3-1 first and if that don't fix it...who knows, time to locate my 20# hammer and fix it for good. I'm about done with this stuff.

Crashcrash,

Holy Crap... What's next for you..

Does the DX6 work okay with the planks? You may want to reset the DX6 transmiiter and reinstall setting for the heli. Or maybe take one of the receivers from the planks and install in the heli. I know the feeling exactly, I've thrown out two heli,, The Falcon 3d and the Raptor G2 (Walkera). Between the cost of those two helis and parts, I dumped about a grand on them. . It can be extremely frustrating at times and expensive.. Maybe time to take a breather.

Sincerely,
Dave / Choppersrule
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I reset the whole radio. If I do NOT pull max current...no problem...I flew tonight. Lacks headspeed, won't stay airborne very high or long. Adjusted the pitch to compensate. I'm betting now on a bad 3-1 because sometimes the tail goes batty too. I'm not getting enough juice to the main motor to maintain decient head speed and if I overdraw current (steady red) with pressure on the servos...it shuts down (3-1) and I have to stop and re-arm it. """3-1 is bad???""".

Crashcrash,

Hmmm, are you still using the DD drive motor, it could be pulling to much juice.

Dave / Choppersrule
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Took it off...the main is brand new. As things go bad, people make adjustments to compensate (see servo bind/glitch). I adjusted the servos so they will not bind but at max current draw, the 3-1 will disarm...I know that's not right. They don't disarm in a crash. Just by the nature of disarming, this would be the most likely cause of not getting enough juice to the motor. If I do a highpower in my hand observing servos and all...collective is working fine so it's not the radio....I've been wrong before (didn't I say that?).

Crashcrash,

I've been wrong a zillion times, join the club... It really does sound, with all the testing you've done that the 3n1 might be the culprit.
I've been wrong before, too.

Dave / Choppersrule
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