Too tight...too loose? As far as the pinion to drive gear mesh, I don't see how it could be cocked off (oblique) to the drive gear being how the bearings hold alignment. I've had it too tight...never too loose but I suppose you could get it too loose but not with the Auto Rotation hub and stainless shaft. Weird.

It was too loose. For awile I thought my MH main gear was out of round but it turned out to be gear mesh too loose.

You've had one I've never seen. I've seen too tight but never too loose. The auto hub is so thick that I have to actually force the motor away from the gear and tighten it or it is meshed to tight. With wear, I'll have to re-position the motor or I will end up with too loose.

flight time just under 10 min with a 1250mAh pack with 837 mAh put back in after charging (a little less than normal... I usually put 1050mAh back in including the amount waisted to discharge, which is about 120mAh over the 1 hour charge, which gives me an average usage of about 75%)

first 3 or 4 min max climbout from a hover about 1ft per sec

middle 3 or 4 min max climbout from a hover about 1/2 foot per sec

last 3 or 4 min would only sustain a GE hover at full collective

batt temp when done 94.6F OC battery voltage after flight is 11.4v and I always cut my pack off at 10v under load

motor temp when done without canopy 134F

I found it kinda weird, but the heli would not arm without both the ch3 and the ch4 connected =P
Anyways, so I hooked up just the main motor and no servo's or the tail motor were hooked up. I ran for about 5 min and the motor temp was 147 point something, so basically 148 =( The throttle was all the way up, and I set the servos for about 6 or 7 degrees pitch.

I also had a weird glitch while I was testing it... the main motor bumped out for a milisecond and then when it came back up reved higher and pretty much stayed there. Is that something with the motor, or something with the 3 in 1?

here is a pic of the test. You can see how the motor is arcing a bit.

I also included a pic of my current pinion spacing.

Thanks for the info, sounds like your setup might be running pretty close to what mine is. Good to know on those sym blades. I'm not used to them because I haven't been running them in quite a while (ever since I found these $3.75 a pair flats). Sounds like a good idea on the lube, what lube are you using?

About the head, yeah I think it would be a good idea to do basically the same to one side as the other, but also where it is so close to the center you would have to have alot of weight out of balance to cause a problem. The farther out you are from the spinning part the less the weight required to make a difference, just like choppers was saying with those formula's =)

Make sure you post some pics when you get it all done, and let us know how it works out for ya and if it's worth doing if the links break off =)

[/quote]

Hi mrasmm, I have been using a 3-1 Teflon spray lube and a sewing machine oil I got from WalMart. I have been leaning towards the sewing machine oil more lately as it has an extend able spout and is easier to control the amount you apply. Here are some pics of the grip mod I did, it works great from what I've seen so far only two packs through it with mod but no wipe outs so I'm not sure what will happen then. I drilled a 5/64 hole where the pin on the grip was, threaded in a small 4-40" X 1/2" long set screw using a .05" allan key, put the arm and washers back on back then put on a little nut with lock-tite. The other thought I had for using the set screws was for holding on the tail mount, I drilled a 5/64 hole on the top of tail mount, installed the boom then tightened the 4-40" X 1/4" long set screw it held the boom no problem, this will be the only way I mount them from now on. I think I figured out part of my grip breaking problem, I bought a new brand of paper clip and it will not break when needed, before when using the previous type I would shear the clip after every blade strike. Hope this helps some people out. Rick

Another dumb question...?
How long of a life is to be expected from the transmission shaft bearings...? I, too, keep mine lubed but in the absence of anything else I've been using oil I use in the Hammond organ.

I noticed a very tight mesh 'tween the mH autorotation gear and the motor pinion but that's been fixed.

When I installed the swashplate (an eflite alum. unit), connected it to the servos and tested it, I noticed some quite serious binding and I had to "introduce" some slight bends in the servo rods 'cos they are being held too rigidly in the servo arms.
Trying to remove the rods from the arms is a job and a half, ain't it....gotta find a way around that.
On full right elevator the starboard servo gives that humming vibration "end of travel" sound even with trims set in center......is there any way of alleviating this condition...? I wonder if the swashplate is limiting the travel at the servo...?
At these end of travel conditions, the green LED changes to a blinking red. Stick movements up to about 3/4 travel keep a green light...over that and I get the red light.
This eve I'm going to remove the mH swashplate from P-1 and install it in P-2 and see if that helps.
CX-2 had a good flight yestereve and p-1 was right sensitive but maybe it was me...two packs on p-1 and some fun with neighbor's pooches as the sun went down.
I love flying these things...............R

Sounds pretty close to what I had except mine was severe and the 3-1 would disarm, and the glitch was severe too. I got 3 HS-55's on order (servos). It didn't happen all at once, it was progressive in nature where it would finally cause crashes.

Would the servo's do weird things also, or just the motor cut out? I might need to just get me some 55's anywho, they sound like alot better servo.

Every once in a while the pitch servo (right side looking at the tail) would every so often pull causing the heli to dive to the right. As it progressed...got worse...eventually would pull hard enough for me to loose it and hit a stationary object. At the end...the 3-1 would actually diarm too. Very strange stuff to be sure. Got 3 HS-55's comming from an Ebay store new in the wrapper at the lowest price I could find anywhere (about $12 per unit for total of $39.xx). While I was at it, I ordered new Bell Hiller grips and micro heli stainless shaft from Horizon which I took out on the last crash. If it's not the servos (and I'm 99.999% sure it is), then it's the radio and that would really SUCK because the radio is about new and I got 2 AR6000's for it. I haven't had any glitches in the plank I'm flying on the other AR6000. I'm going INSANE waiting for parts...sheesh! We had a couple eve's here where the wind was NONE///notta, I don't have squat to fly. Corsair is down for Prop, Cub is down for prop, heli down for grips/servos/main rotor shaft.[] The HS-55's are not better than the S-75's persay. They don't have quite as much torque power but they're real close so it makes them a more reliable (so I've heard) suitable sub for S-75's. They will still fail with hard landings etc but they shouldn't just "burn out" like the S-75's. I might start using Futaba servos that are comparable to the S-75's. I've never had Futaba anything go bad all the years I've flown it.

Rayelljay,

Shaft Bearings:: Unless you have a horrific crash that damages the bearing, they seem to last forever as long as you clean and lube periodically. I think it was Futura, cleans and lubricates the bearing every 40 to 50 hours. I'm an over lubricator, i lube mine(not clean) every 4 or 5 flights, only takes a few minutes..Just a drop. The bearing I have are at least a year old.

Servo Arm Rigidity: Yes they can be annoying, if the servo rod is binding in the servo arm, you can take a small flat head jewelers, I don't remember which size, and use it as a drill bit and ream the servo arm hole out.. Make sure it isn't to big, or you'll end up with slop and control problems. You want it tight, but not so tight that it's binding (maybe a drop of the old 3n1 or sewing machine oil would help.

Servo, End Of Travel: The swashplate will tilt about 35 degrees in any direction from level, so the swashplate would limit the servo travel and even bend/torque the main shaft.. (Mine does that). Normally, in flight you'll never apply that much cyclic control to bottom out the swashplate... Unless, you're doing 3D, and if you would have that desire, you'd want to install 3D servo arms anyway (they are much longer than the stock arms).

Controller Red Light / Green Light: By your description, it's perfectly normal... When the red light comes on, in the controller, all that means is that it's at maximum amp. draw.. Nothing to be concerned about, again a normal condition.

I love 'em too, hope this helps,

Dave / Choppersrule
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Crashcrash and Mrasmm,

The HS-55's servos are probably the best servo for the Blade CP/Pro for the price. Mrassm, I forget do you have a programmable radio, because the HS-55's turn the opposite direction than the Stock S75's. But can be modified electrically to work with the Stock Transmitter for the Blade series. With a programmable Transmitter it can be done in the menus.

I've mentioned this before,,, take a new stock 75 and a new 55. With finger tip pressure on the servo arm, the 75 will move up or down. The 55 has NO slop. I have 55's on my Pro and ordered 55's for the test bird(CP).

I'll just take a minute here to be silly again, "NA-NA-NA-NAAAA-NA", I got mine yesterday. Still in the box.

Oh, the one servo that has the servo arm on it, it comes that way, but has a small bag of 3 or 4 others.. I just use the arms that are on the old servos.

Crazy Dave / Choppersrule
================================================== ====================================

Since I've got the DX6...shouldn't be a problem setting them up. I won't put it together till ALL the stuff gets here either. I just won't fly without Bell-Hiller...I'm spoiled rotten. Won't fly without the Auto Rotation either...Twice spoiled, I really like those features.

for all of you that own multiple helis,

what LiPo Balance Charger are you using?

The reason I ask is...

after getting my TREX 450 together and flying, I need something to charge the 2100mAh 20C 3s LiPo. For the first couple charges I used the E-Flite 2-3 Cell Balancing Charger that comes stock with the CX2 (EFLC3110), this is a great little charger for the Blade series LiPos. However, it took almost 4 hours to charge my TREX battery.

As you can imagine for a heli addict like myself, 7-10 mins of flight for 4 hours of charge time just doesn't cut it!

So, I ended up purchasing the DN Power G2 Balance Charger. The main reason I decided on this charger is because of the features and price. It charges 1-4 cell Li-Ion and Li-Polymer 1-4 cell batteries. It has a programmable charge current from 0.2 - 2.0A, and the best part is the LCD display with voltage meter for EACH CELL! (which is also a great feature to check the charge of your batteries!)

word of caution...
READ THE DIRECTIONS BEFORE USE!

Charging my 2150mAh at 2A only took about an hour, great!

so then, I thought... the higher the charge amps the faster the charge time!

I charged my MegaPower 7.4v 850mAh LiPo [for my CX2] in just under an hour, at 2A... next I plugged up my stock E-Flite 7.4 800mAh (EFLB0990), After more than an hour and a half, the complete charge indication still did not sound, so I looked at the LCD screen and each cell read 4.2V so I unplugged the battery thinking in was fully chargerd. That's when I noticed some swelling in one of the cells.... D'oh

any ideas?

Ouch...you smoked that battery. Glad to see you're still around man...good to see you again!

crash,

yep, time to add that pack to the "black band society"!

been crazy busy lately, actually tomorrow is my first day off in almost 3 weeks. Finally get some flying time in!

my saving grace has been the nav lights on my CX2, it's always nice to be able to fly a pack outside when the weather's nice, even when it's dark!


-EDIT-
plus reading up on the thread as much as possible!

I noticed a lot of problems with the DD tail, and now a great momentum to the Dual Motors...
I've come to the realization that the tail on the Blade CP/Pro is best left stock. Actually, I think the Blade CP Pro - completely stock with the CORRECT SETUP is pretty much as good as it gets for a $250 RTF Heli. I still have an original stock Blade CP Pro and love to fly it around the yard. I've even been fortunate enought to do some circuits at the local High School gym, with NO WIND, it's a GREAT HELI

Wheeeeee...... BLADE CP PRO!!!!

I've been busy waiting to go back to work and waiting for heli parts...sheesh. I did get Kyle's direct drive to work but I had to cut the prop down to match the EP-0320 in length. It gets a little warm but still less than stock so I'll be running direct drive from now on...it does work once you find the right combo (actually works pretty sweet).

Not sure if you're asking why that happened or not... but basically why it did is because you charged those 800mAh packs at 2.5C, and lipo's can only be charged at 1C max (unless the mfg specifically says they can, but in that case it will shorten the life of the pack). bummer man =(

good to see you back around though! [8D]

na, I have a computer radio, but it's old and it doesn't do ccpm, so I am on the stock thing. I do have your write up for the 55's from a few pages back. Yeah, the main reason I was saying the 55's were better is because of the tight mesh, and the fact that futaba (although maybe over priced) is very high quality eq and is not likely to fail at all.

Did you have any more idea's on my motor situation?



Crash:

what do you think of this as far as where the swash is on my heli to get rid of the binding? The test I do is spin the rpms up to about 60, or 1 rps and then give it full cyclic in all directions and see what it does. It use to completely stop it to the right and left, but now it keeps on going. I did your recommendation and put the swash up 3 half turns. full left cyclic slows it down to about 1/2 (because my left servo arm 0's out higher than the one on the right), but full forward backwards and to the right don't slow it down noticably at all. Complete diagonal cyclic in any direction stops it (but that's real extreme, and probably nothing that I would ever see in real flight, hehe maybe the pro's would though.)

Crash,
OK..I know I'm on your page.....I lit up the system yestereve and tried to replicate my circumstances.
Sure enough, that starboard servo, at full (yes limited by the swashplate) was torquing the frame and I was thinking, too, about what would/could be applied "in the field".
That's why it took me near two years to rebuild a 900cc three cylinder Triumph Trident.
So, anyway, the e-flite swashplate came off and went to P-1 and I installed the mH swashplate. rest of evening spent in rebuilding the top half of P-1 with the relocated eflite swashplate. Hopefully she'll hop tonight so I can finally adjust the links for as stable a hover as I can get.
I think I hit it lucky last eve......I had the servo arms off and was looking to remove the link from the arm and I though to myself, "Self, how about we trim back as much of that wee bent over piece as we can." So, I hooked up Mr. Dremel with cutting/grinding disk and proceeded to gently grind on the metal. Success I hadn't dreamed of...with the heat generated and the frequent handling (and times to cool off) the fit 'tween the arm and the link is nigh on perfect.
I went through a similar exercise with CX-2 but there, I was changing holes, not fit. I have a set of tapered micro reamers which worked well, but not as well as the grinding heat method. Long story short: three much better links.
On the P-2's box I see a reference to an Eflite cnc head assembly....anyone tried one yet....?

R

arrrgggggg.... ok, so after all these tests to figure out what is going on with my heli, I decided to take apart the 3 in 1 to see if that didn't have something to do with it. I took it apart and got some good pics. It didn't really look too bad to me when I was looking at it, but after I did some more tests I looked at the pics, and I'm not sure they look so good. When I pulled out the main motor connector, I noticed it was melted =( it was deformed and hard to get out. It was a new connector when I put the 9T in there, so basically 1 pack ago.

After I took all of that apart and got the pics of the 3 in 1 I decided to try a brand new 9T esky motor that I had. I used that one, and after 1 min the motor went from 80F to 115F (no servos and no tail hooked up), so I killed the test. I measured the voltage during the test which was at full throttle, and the RMS came out to be 10.1 or so. After that I wanted to see if it was the 3 in 1, so I took an 8v power supply, and left the pitch and the swash the same with no power to the 3 in 1 receiver or servo's. It drew 4.25A and I let it run for 10 min and took the temp. It went from 80F to 134 =( so no beans on that one, same results with or without the 3 in 1.



that's what one looks like from the 4 in 1 from the regular cp.

The crystal seems to have some burn marks on it, and the [link=http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/22690/STMICROELECTRONICS/LD1117A.html]BEC regulators[/link] (2 @ 5v and 0.8a in parallel for 1.6A total) seem to have slid around, althought I guess they could have been installed that way. Also the plastic positive pole on the main motor has melted a bit. The flip side of the 3 in 1 seems untouched though, including the 3 mosfets 2 for the main and 1 for the tail.


Everything is running normal though except the flight time is down and the main motor is running hot. It looks like the 3 in 1 has definately seen some hard times, and might be shot. It might also be ok and something else is what's causing the problem. Anyone have any ideas?

If the 3 in 1 is shot, I guess I should consider weither to get another 3 in 1 or just go seperates or something. I guess we'll see what plays out =(

Well I'm ready to hover but can't get a calm day. Everything is ready I even went so far as to buy new blades. One problem now comes up. I balanced the blades and whe i mount them and spin up there is a bad vibration. I checked and adjusted tracking. still vibrates. I took the blades off and spun up the fly bar with the paddels and it was smooth. So can I assume it's in the blades? If so other then balance what should I do. If it isn't the blades then what should I look at?

Check the gear mesh/main motor pinion, make sure it's not too loose or tight. Make sure the flybar paddles are correctly aligned. Make sure there's no excessive gap between the rotor head and the blade grips....all I can think of right now.

Hi rossn444kc, did you balance the blades dynamically and statically? I found that the stock cp pro blades can be out both ways and once properly balanced perform better. Also I balanced my tail rotor and found it to be slightly out of balance and needed a little tape on the light side. Hope this helps. Rick

One question...was the torqing un-intentional (it did it by it's self)?

Where are you buying flats for $3.75 a pair??? I'd be interested in stocking up at that price.