Oh - and Mr Postman has been super-tardy ex-China lately.

Lots of ppl across several threads are complaining about HK delivery times for aircraft.

Even props/ESCs/motors etc seem to be taking ages to get here.

LiPo's? Order them 2 months out if you don't wanna go nutso waiting for them to arrive...

No idea what my next plane purchase will be - I have about 9 to finish now... *eek*

BJ

Double-post.

Sowwy []

BJ

WOW that loop .. looks .. really quite small, I'm surprised they don't do larger ones to make it easier.

Looks like they'd be loosing quite a lot kinetic energy with such a small tight circle too, it would seem (to a novice like me) they would get more speed with a larger circle.

Trouble is - there's only a very tight zone between where the lift is and how far you can go down the 'back side' under gravity before you have to turn back towards the lift.

Hence the quite tight circle.

I'll post up a link to a vid of the boyz doing 367 miles per hour in the States to give you an idea of exaclty how insanely freakin fast that loop comes around when I get home...

BJ

Here ya go...

An 'old' record (you can occasionally see the plane)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpStBAsKjUA

And the new record (can't see much, but it sounds pretty awesome - like a jet..(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByOB4...eature=related

BJ

PS - this one is more of a compilation - so you can see the planes and what they get up to...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oix6s...eature=related

Farkninel...

Anyone still yakking here???

BJ

yes mate. I got home from work and had a few quiet ones and they got real loud all of a sudden.

Those slopeys are amazing. I was just having dreams about my parkjet.

Do you think if i put my 4.1x4.5 prop on instead of the 5x5 i have on it already that it would make it faster? Or do i need the punch of the 3s to make it go faster. Im still on 2s 800mah lipos.

Just a little more speed out of it would be nice.

Anyways i might take it out for a blurt this morning. I just have to wait like an hour or so for the sun to come up.

BJ tell me this aint your dream plane mate. Its pretty bloody cool but the top gun music makes this video.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/81799612/

Yah - saw that one only yesterday, Stal.

I thought this one was pretty trick too: http://vimeo.com/4752279

Guy went to a lot of trouble to get the Pilot working like it does.

Good job

BJ

yeah that one is pretty cool as well

hey any thoughts on that prop idea for my parkjet BJ?

I just got two hooks that stick on the wall and its hanging above my computer table now. Looks cool up there. Might just have to jam a 3s in it when they come and see how quick it goes then.

Did someone say its beer o clock, dont mind if i do.

wow i just noticed in that video that the little dudes hands move as he moves he plane around and the hand on the throttle. Hes right into.

I would rather just train a mouse to fly my rc plane straight up. I think this project would be alot more fun

Can't really give you a lot of advice re your prop, Stal.

Have you got a wattmeter yet? Those things are great for getting a feel of which prop gives you the most power while drawing amps within the ESC's rating.

Having said that, it looks like the higher the Kv rating of your motor, the smaller the prop you should use when it comes down to a choice of a couple of props that are in the ballpark.

For instance, I'm running a 5.5x5.25 prop on my FunJet's 3250Kv motor (on 3S). I could go up to a 6x4, but my 50A Speedie (and LiPo) gets way hot if I fly a lot of WOT on the prop I've got, so I have to remember to do a few cool-down laps in between high-speed passes. I should probably either mount the ESC on the outside, or add some scoops to channel a bit of cooling air over the Speedie (the tips of plastic spoons work great for this). The FunJet's airframe is just about knackered now, so I'm keeping my peepers open for and Ultra airframe at a price < $120. I have a 70A ESC I reckon I'd use in the next one. And maybe try a slightly taller prop.

But I digress...

If you haven't already got one, get a wattmeter. Measure the smaller prop v's the larger prop as far as current draw goes at WOT. It's also handy if you have a prop tacho too - so you can see the exact revs each prop pulls. With those two measurements, you can get an idea of which prop is more efficient. If you want really good data, onc of those electronic fish scales that reads out to 5kg can give you absolute thrust if you make a little rig up to hold your plane securely while you power it up to pull against the scales.

If you can measure Watts, RPM and Thrust you can accurately measure the best possible setup of prop, ESC, motor and LiPo. Nothing beats what it actually does whilst flying, of course, but those three measurements will give you a pretty good idea before you actually fly. And you don't need good weather to do it

BJ

I did get a watt meter but i dont know what the hell all the readings really mean mate. I guess i could try it again. Its only got xt60 connectors on it though. I might have to make up some xt60 to jst plugs.

Man these Chinese postmen must be taking a strike or some thing. If your saying everyones packages are taking forever then what the hell is going on.

Im looking forward to getting my 3d hawk in the air as well. She needs a bit of fixing up after her 2s didnt have enough juice to keep her afloat. Nothing a hot glue gun will fix.

Anyways going up to dads in the morning to mess around with the rc boats. Where having dads day today. Should be a nice day for it.

Happy fathers day to all you dads.

Which wattmeter did you get? The HK one?

The readings from wattemeters are usually along the lines of:

Volts
Volts Max
Amps
Amps Max
Watts
Watts Max

The 'Max' ones are the maximum reading during the run - or the 'peak' reading.

The other ones are the 'real time' readings - what the meter is measuring right now. You should see them going up and down as you move the throttle around and/or apply load to the motor.

You just to a run on your motor, then you can shut the throttle off.

With the meter still connected, it should cycle through the readings it got.

Volts and Amps are genuine readings - Watts is just Volts times Amps.

Re shipping - I think the Chinese manufacturers are getting flooded with orders of the new mini-Warbirds and 50mm/30mm EDF's etc just now - they're a huge improvement on whats been around the last couple of years, so I reckon the demand is quite high.

Have a great Fathers Day with your Dad, mate. Make it a special one for him.

BJ

meebo in regards to the two servos on the ailerons. Its more precise. It also allows you to fine tune them alot better. You can also set up flaps on them. Its just a whole lot better IMO. I have a servo on each aileron on both my hyperion snyper and my extra 260 and i love it. You can really dial them in. If you have one aileron you have to be very precise in making the control rods that go out to the control horns. If your a little bit out then its going to throw the whole plane out of wack. This was the case with my original 3d hawk. But i just adjusted my flying style to suit.

Anyways also have a look at this bad boy ok. Yes its expensive but its so worth it.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQF5mRSAQ4Q[/youtube]

Although Michael makes it look effortless this little plane is very capable of some serious 3d flying.

Anyways i had a great morning with my dad. His rc boat is performing so well now. I just have to get my boat going as good as his now. We have ordered alot more parts so my boat will be running the same parts as his. We are going to put a 100a esc turnigy DX esc in mine and try a 4s lipo in it. We want to see hard we can push these boats. We will leave dads as is and use mine to experiment with. We have so many spares on the way now so we should be set if we have any problems. We sealed dads boat with electrical tape and he had no more then a thimble of water in it now. We are both so happy that after all this time we have finally ironed out all the kinks and got it going really well. Dads really not worried about the money we have spent on them so far. He loves mucking around with them with me. Hes now talking about making a jump and some bouys so when we race it will make it more interesting.

Anyways boys we might have to hit up pheonix laters if you are around.

Time for a quiet beer or two i think.

oh BJ my wattmetter is the turnigy one. I might look into it in the morning. I was going to take the parkjet out for a blurt this arvo but its blowing a gale here atm. So i might have to wait till the morning.

So why the Twisted Hobbys Extra Slick over the 3DHS Edge or Extra 330 ??

just throwing another option out there mate. Its much smaller and more manoeuvrable IMO. Buts its also pretty expensive.

Im happy with my hyperion snyper so im set. But i would be flying the chit out of your hawk 3d until youve done all the crashing you can do until you get another one. These kinda birds dont take to many crashes until there pretty trashed.

I wont be happy until i get my rare bear and have a successful maiden.

Yo Stal, it doesn't say your on vacation anymore .... Can you post ??

You are not allowed to post messages to this forum due to your infraction level. You currently have 11 infraction points. Over time these points will be dropped from your record. You may join the forum when your infraction level drops below 5 points.

nope

its been to windy here all day to go flying. Ive got the flying bug too. Im hoping in the morning it will have settled down so i can go for a fly.

Have you decided what plane your going to get next meebo?

Bugga, do we even know what the rate is in which they go down ?? E.G. You lose one point a week or one a fortnight.

I'm thinking I'll stick with the 3DHS EPPEdge, I love the look of it and it performs outta this world according to those who've flown their Extra 330. 3DHS say the Edge will perform BETTER than the Extra 330 when flying outside (which is the only place I CAN fly) as it has more carbon reinforcing. Can't got wrong with more reinforcments

Hey BJ i finally got the rare bear today.

Do i epoxy the back section and rudder on? Also how does the front hatch meant to mount?

The wings feel flimsy to me even with the supplied carbon spa in it. The stock esc looks chit. Im gonna put a plush 40a esc straight into her.

Im not in the right frame of mind to build it right now. I will have a look at it before the weekend and hopefully maiden it then.

At least it came with a little dude in the cockpit.

I just used CA for the tail-section. Rough it up a bit with sandpaper if you want a better joint.

REMEMBER to put the elevator horn on and the linkage BEFORE you glue the tail section on - I didn't and it was hell to get it in there after that.

The top section goes in under the nose cowling, then you push the rear tab under the recess at the back.

Wing is plenty stiff enough...

BJ

ok thanks BJ makes more sense now. I will use CA. I have to solder up my esc first. Just behind the battery hatch i think ill mount the esc in there.

I have 1000mah 3s nanotechs where the best place for me to mount them. All the way back or more to the front?

what props should i look at getting for this bad boy

Speedie goes in the slot provided.

I have my batts shoved hard against the first dividing wall back from the motor. And a couple of small peices of velcro to stop it rocking free.

I'll take a pic of how I have mine set up.

You should have two lil dimples on the upper wing surfaces that show you where the CG is.

I'm running a 6x6 Cam Speed prop - might be a bit hot for the stock ESC, but if you're putting a 40A, that would work ok. Anything in the 5.something x 5.something range would be ok too.

BJ

About the pic: Battery is angled sideways - parallel to the angled wall in that bay. Double-check your battery for fit once you've decided where to put it - the canopy section won't go on if the battery stands too tall (that's why I layed my over - secured with a couple of bits of velcro so it can't flop around in there).

Rx is up the back - away from the the RF of the Motor and Speedie. Speedie is shoved down into the slot provided.

Elevator servo arm runs a barrel/grub screw instead of that stupid z-bend. If you have to adjust the elevator linkage length, you'll soon know why I did this. The linkage arm and clevis are not the original - I happened to have one of the thinner link rods with decent thread and a good clevis lying around to do the job - didn't like the way the stock rod screwed into the stock clevis - it felt like it could pull out real easy, even when threaded through over half way.

You can just make out the CG dimples about a cm out from the fuze and around 3cm back from the LE - the one just behind the bruise on the left wing is easier to see.

Have fun