FUNJET
#776
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From: Spartanburg,
SC
ORIGINAL: blanik213
theb1bman looking good what do you think your empty weight will be compared to a stock empty weight and did you install a spare system in the wing and formers or bulkheads in the fuse before you joined the two half's also what oz weight cf did you use. I finished my modified TJ which is now called the AURORA.I had hoped to maiden last week but discovered that my choice of motors lacked kv was too high and would pull way too many amps using the rite prop for the thrust I wanted. I am now using Just Go Fly 550th for the first stage of sorting things out, plenty of thrust will make for a safe uneventful launch. I will be making a plug of the Aurora in order to make a glass version of it once all changes if any are finalized . The pic's show two different canopy's one for show(semi scale look) and one for GO(low profile speed canopy)and yes I know the props are backwards it was just a photo op.
theb1bman looking good what do you think your empty weight will be compared to a stock empty weight and did you install a spare system in the wing and formers or bulkheads in the fuse before you joined the two half's also what oz weight cf did you use. I finished my modified TJ which is now called the AURORA.I had hoped to maiden last week but discovered that my choice of motors lacked kv was too high and would pull way too many amps using the rite prop for the thrust I wanted. I am now using Just Go Fly 550th for the first stage of sorting things out, plenty of thrust will make for a safe uneventful launch. I will be making a plug of the Aurora in order to make a glass version of it once all changes if any are finalized . The pic's show two different canopy's one for show(semi scale look) and one for GO(low profile speed canopy)and yes I know the props are backwards it was just a photo op.
Cp
#779
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From: Garnerville NY,
NY
Thanks for the complements chippedprop I do have a series of build pics of the Aurora (modified twin jet) at different stages of it's transformation and I would be happy to share them with you guy's if if you want and give details of my build methods to those who wish to know .I have gotten a great deal of info from the many forums on line covering many aspects of building and using materials and would be glade to pass the info along to be used . Let me know what pics or info you are interested in seeing and I'll see if I can oblige . Woody
#782
I am running a Sapac 3200kv outrunner. Had an APC 6x4e prop. I dont think I had any rough landings, all in grassy area, just let it slid to stop. Should the apc E series be able to handle high rpms? Before the 5s run, I had probably 10 or so flights with 4s with no problems. On the first flight with the 5s 35c, the prop went.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
ORIGINAL: chippedprop
details please
1-brand and kv of motor
2-prop that broke what brand size/pitch
3-did you land rough/to fast ( I snap props a lot if I ''stick'' the landing)
ORIGINAL: Zman39
I tried my funjet on 5s this weekend
. It was screaming but then sheared the APC prop, I guess too many rpms. Anyone know of props this size that are made for high rpms?
Thanks
Z
I tried my funjet on 5s this weekend
. It was screaming but then sheared the APC prop, I guess too many rpms. Anyone know of props this size that are made for high rpms?Thanks
Z
1-brand and kv of motor
2-prop that broke what brand size/pitch
3-did you land rough/to fast ( I snap props a lot if I ''stick'' the landing)
#783
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From: Spartanburg,
SC
Zman39
The prop is wrong. You must run APC speed 400 or pylon props turning the rpms.
You will most likely have to run a APC 4.75x4.75 or 4.75X4.50 due to the high kv of the motor. The 6x4e is a thin prop designed for MUCH slower kv motors. I'm guessing that due to the flex of the thin prop you did not over amp system.
That said you can expect blistering performance with the above props. You MUST balance these props...if you don't you run the risk of damage to the motor bearings.
You will be in the 110 to 120 speed range with the new props. You may try a APC 5.0x5.0 but check the amp draw on the smallest prop then work up to close to max amps. Make sure you check ESC amp range 60 amp min. and max amp on motor per mfg. Your amps will drop in the air. Amp test are static on the ground. I'll guess your pushing past 60 amps.
buy 2-3 of each.
Rule of thumb...The prop is the transmission of the plane. That's why there are so many lengths and pitches on the market.
A diff. mfg. will yeild a diff. result as most mfgs. do not use the same air foil design on the prop. blades.
Post you results....start small and work up. you won't believe the diff. in the correct prop...watch for torque roll to the left on launch.
Cp
The prop is wrong. You must run APC speed 400 or pylon props turning the rpms.
You will most likely have to run a APC 4.75x4.75 or 4.75X4.50 due to the high kv of the motor. The 6x4e is a thin prop designed for MUCH slower kv motors. I'm guessing that due to the flex of the thin prop you did not over amp system.
That said you can expect blistering performance with the above props. You MUST balance these props...if you don't you run the risk of damage to the motor bearings.
You will be in the 110 to 120 speed range with the new props. You may try a APC 5.0x5.0 but check the amp draw on the smallest prop then work up to close to max amps. Make sure you check ESC amp range 60 amp min. and max amp on motor per mfg. Your amps will drop in the air. Amp test are static on the ground. I'll guess your pushing past 60 amps.
buy 2-3 of each.
Rule of thumb...The prop is the transmission of the plane. That's why there are so many lengths and pitches on the market.
A diff. mfg. will yeild a diff. result as most mfgs. do not use the same air foil design on the prop. blades.
Post you results....start small and work up. you won't believe the diff. in the correct prop...watch for torque roll to the left on launch.
Cp
#784
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From: south, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: panzertank
can anyone help me im having a serious problem with my funjet. the problem is stays constantly out of trim (as far as in the use of ailerons). when im at high power settings its torques over to the left rapidly and when im at low power settings it pulls to the right very quickly ever since i reattached an elevon it contiues to do this. i am at a loss for what do to. does anyone have and recommedations on what i should do? any help will be appreciated. thanks
-PN
can anyone help me im having a serious problem with my funjet. the problem is stays constantly out of trim (as far as in the use of ailerons). when im at high power settings its torques over to the left rapidly and when im at low power settings it pulls to the right very quickly ever since i reattached an elevon it contiues to do this. i am at a loss for what do to. does anyone have and recommedations on what i should do? any help will be appreciated. thanks
-PN
Infact I have the same problem on mine 2w-20 4s 4.7x4.7 cam prop.
I believe the solution is in our transmitter, assuming your transmiter can do mixes?
Throttle to aelerion mix.
Might be best to dissconnect motor and fire up full throttle and see which way + or - is needed to see the right roll correction deflection, fly and adjust low and high % input to counter this annoying effect
#785
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From: Spartanburg,
SC
ORIGINAL: chippedprop
Zman39
The prop is wrong. You must run APC speed 400 or pylon props turning the rpms.
You will most likely have to run a APC 4.75x4.75 or 4.75X4.50 due to the high kv of the motor. The 6x4e is a thin prop designed for MUCH slower kv motors. I'm guessing that due to the flex of the thin prop you did not over amp system.
That said you can expect blistering performance with the above props. You MUST balance these props...if you don't you run the risk of damage to the motor bearings.
You will be in the 110 to 120 speed range with the new props. You may try a APC 5.0x5.0 but check the amp draw on the smallest prop then work up to close to max amps. Make sure you check ESC amp range 60 amp min. and max amp on motor per mfg. Your amps will drop in the air. Amp test are static on the ground. I'll guess your pushing past 60 amps.
buy 2-3 of each.
Rule of thumb...The prop is the transmission of the plane. That's why there are so many lengths and pitches on the market.
A diff. mfg. will yeild a diff. result as most mfgs. do not use the same air foil design on the prop. blades.
Post you results....start small and work up. you won't believe the diff. in the correct prop...watch for torque roll to the left on launch.
Cp
Zman39
The prop is wrong. You must run APC speed 400 or pylon props turning the rpms.
You will most likely have to run a APC 4.75x4.75 or 4.75X4.50 due to the high kv of the motor. The 6x4e is a thin prop designed for MUCH slower kv motors. I'm guessing that due to the flex of the thin prop you did not over amp system.
That said you can expect blistering performance with the above props. You MUST balance these props...if you don't you run the risk of damage to the motor bearings.
You will be in the 110 to 120 speed range with the new props. You may try a APC 5.0x5.0 but check the amp draw on the smallest prop then work up to close to max amps. Make sure you check ESC amp range 60 amp min. and max amp on motor per mfg. Your amps will drop in the air. Amp test are static on the ground. I'll guess your pushing past 60 amps.
buy 2-3 of each.
Rule of thumb...The prop is the transmission of the plane. That's why there are so many lengths and pitches on the market.
A diff. mfg. will yeild a diff. result as most mfgs. do not use the same air foil design on the prop. blades.
Post you results....start small and work up. you won't believe the diff. in the correct prop...watch for torque roll to the left on launch.
Cp
5.0x5.0 more then 140 [X(][X(][X(]
#786
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From: Garnerville NY,
NY
Hey guys these are a few pic's of the early work done on the Aurora (TJ) after I had reshaped the airfoil and framed out the wing and vertical stabs. The framing made a tremendous difference in stiffness of the wing ,I also extended the wing 2.5". Framing the vertical stabs and elevons also made these items really stiff and resistant to torsional twisting. The elevons and stabs also sanded down to reduce their thickness and were glassed using a very inexpensive bagging method.I used a Reynolds Handi-Vac food bagging system that's used to store small food portions(the system comes with a vacuum pump and some small bags) ,the bag I used was a 1 gallon size that measured 10 9/16"x11 1/2" big enough for the vertical stabs and elevons. The Handi-Vac system cost 10$ here in the US and the large bags were 4 bucks can't bet that.You will need two other thing no.#1 a material called peel-ply that will be placed over the item once the resin and glass have been applied(it will allow excess resin to pass through it into the next layer). no.#2 breather cloth that will be placed over the peel-ply (it will absorb the excess resin that's squeezed out) then the whole thing ,glassed item cover with the two additional layers is put into the bag and the air is vacuumed out .Leave the bag overnight and when you remove the part you will have to peel off the two last layers and you will have an incredibly stiff light weight part ready for paint with just a bit of light sanding. all parts must be sanded even if you don't want to change their shape to remove any mold release agent present on it's surface.I recommend using 220 grit down to 400 grit and use a sanding block for all flat wing surfaces and leading and trailing edges it will give you a very flat ,true finished surface finger tips will not work as well on large surfaces. I used 2 coats of light weight spackle sanding between each coat with 320 to 400 grit paper .All elevons and stabs covered with 2oz cloth and West System resin elevons had carbon vail added to le of bottom and complete topside. If this info is missing anything please ask I will fill in the blanks.
#788
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From: grand junction,
CO
any one know the empty weight of a Funjet? mine looks like it will be around 28 OZ to 36 OZ
I got the canopy done and should have the bottom or the plane done to day
heres some more pics
I got the canopy done and should have the bottom or the plane done to day
heres some more pics
#789
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From: grand junction,
CO
that Aurora will be nice I wish I still had a twinjet.
I do still have a couple microjets that I will mold up one day
we name this funjet Johnny 5 from the movie Sort Circuit. There was a number 5 on the plug plane that was donated
I do still have a couple microjets that I will mold up one day
we name this funjet Johnny 5 from the movie Sort Circuit. There was a number 5 on the plug plane that was donated
#790
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From: Garnerville NY,
NY
theb1bman is that 28-36oz empty weight if so that's not as light as I thought it would have been for that size plane.What kind of resin did you use and did you do anything to remove the excess resin from the carbon fiber when you did the layup. The Aurora's empty weight complete with paint job is 25oz and AUW with 4500mah 30c 3s plus 2x100ampesc Castle Ice esc's ,separate Castle bec, HS 82mg x2 servo's ,Just Go Fly 550th motor'sx2 ,custom motor mountsx2= 58oz and 62oz with 5000mah 30c 4s.
#791
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From: grand junction,
CO
ya I did my math wrong
just the top half is 6.5 OZ canopy is .3 OZ and rudders are .7 OZ and I'll say the bottom is 8 OZ and the back canopy is .7 OZ and the batt tray is 1 OZ
6.5
.3
1.4
8
.7
1
= 17.9 OZ
then I'll have to add the spar, ribs, glue and spray foam weight
yes I do use 3/16 cotton cloth and West Systems epoxy
I also just tried Fiberglast.com's new stretchlon bagging film and WOW!!! way cool if conforms to nearly any shape. If it is not quit as close to the mold as you want heat it with a heat gun and it will be
just the top half is 6.5 OZ canopy is .3 OZ and rudders are .7 OZ and I'll say the bottom is 8 OZ and the back canopy is .7 OZ and the batt tray is 1 OZ
6.5
.3
1.4
8
.7
1
= 17.9 OZ
then I'll have to add the spar, ribs, glue and spray foam weight
yes I do use 3/16 cotton cloth and West Systems epoxy
I also just tried Fiberglast.com's new stretchlon bagging film and WOW!!! way cool if conforms to nearly any shape. If it is not quit as close to the mold as you want heat it with a heat gun and it will be
#792
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From: Garnerville NY,
NY
That's more like what I thought it would be excellent work can't wait to see the finished project .Thanks for that product info very neat stuff going to order several things from them today for my next project. Look forward to your next post and pic's. Woody
#795
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After reading all this I am going to get another FJ up, this time it will be a 'Slow Poke' version. I'll put in my Mega 16/15/3. Fast planes and me don't go together well. They tend to meet terra firma really hard.
Now to see what I can do for the colour scheme.
Now to see what I can do for the colour scheme.
#796
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From: south, UNITED KINGDOM
I have no idea, I need a watt/amp meter.
The current cam 4.7x4.7 gives 5mins with throttle management on 4s 2450 eon 30c
What about about any of the following props?
5x5- suggested improvement-
5.1x4.5
5x3
4.5x4.5
4.5x4.1
4.1x4.1
The current cam 4.7x4.7 gives 5mins with throttle management on 4s 2450 eon 30c
What about about any of the following props?
5x5- suggested improvement-
5.1x4.5
5x3
4.5x4.5
4.5x4.1
4.1x4.1
#799
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From: south, UNITED KINGDOM
what are the figures that im damaging the motor/battery and solution? bigger lipo/smaller prop?
Currentley on this pack Ive given up the 80%rule, fly for 5mins until the pack gives up or power drops from speed controller 3v cut off.
Hit 119mph airspeed today.
To slow for me
Currentley on this pack Ive given up the 80%rule, fly for 5mins until the pack gives up or power drops from speed controller 3v cut off.
Hit 119mph airspeed today.
To slow for me
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From: Garnerville NY,
NY
Hey theb1bman I know the level of excitement at this point of the process when all of your planing and hard work come together into an almost finished product is hard to think about any thing else but getting it done and in the air,well done b1man. What kind of spare system will you be using?




