Granted I've only put about a gallon and a half through the engine.. Here's my start process. Out of the box(remove the spring on the throttle assembly), choke on, throttle at full, flip it about 20 times to get it primed. Turn the ignition on then flip it until it pops. Usually about 3 flips. Put the throttle to idle, turn the choke off, then flip it. Usually the first or second flip. Should start right up! A few posts up talks about the needle valve process. 32:1 Lawnboy or comparible and you're good to go. Today I did that start procedure, and then flew about 1/2 gallon of gas through it(roughly 7 flights). After the initial flight, I did not need to do the choke process. Starts at idle with no more than 3 flips. Now how will it do longevity wise? Don't know. This post has been around for ages, and LOTS of guys still fly this engine.

HA found you over here too...!! What brand Yak are you putting your DL on?
As for the over powered thing, I am going to put the DL on my 74" EF Yak...13lbs

Im sure its in this thread somewhere but does anyone know if the DA mufflers and headers are a direct bolt on to the DLs?

YES

Used to be that way here to until we had the cops called on us a couple of times. Anyway I may just go ahead and order the silent beauty, it has internal baffels from what I am reading.

JTec has a large volume wraparound to reduce sound. http://www.jtecrc.com/dlengineswraparound.htm
And a large(r) prop will help a lot.

Close enough.... no problem

Yes any exhaust system that fits a DA 50 engine will fitt the DL 50 no problem,

Does the Da ignition fit the DL engine?

A DL ignition will work on a DA, you have to swap the pickup sensor over though as well. So I suspect the reverse would be true also.

Though not sure why you would do unless you had it laying around spare as a DL ignition is a lot less $ than a DA one. No performance increase to be gained except maybe you can run a DA ignition on a 6v pack without a volt reg.

Hey guys,
Anybody know if you can easily re-position the choke arm?

Steve.......

Impossible...

Yeah...kinda looks that way.

The only thing you can do is to grind it off and use a cut down nose wheel steering arm in its place.

Thanks, that's a thought.......But I've did some creative control rod bending.

you can turn the choke arm 180 degrees, in doing this it makes rod connection much easier. make sure to use blue loctite when placing the screw bak in. Our club is not currently under a noise restriction, but many of us our using headers and cannister mufflers on our engines. they keep the noise down and i prefer them. What fits a DA will work on the DL including the new 100's.

you can turn the choke arm 180 degrees, in doing this it makes rod connection much easier. make sure to use blue loctite when placing the screw bak in. Our club is not currently under a noise restriction, but many of us our using headers and cannister mufflers on our engines. they keep the noise down and i prefer them. What fits a DA will work on the DL including the new 100's.

You can spin the throttle arm 180 as it has the screw holding it on. But the choke arm is a press fit on the end of the shaft. No screw to remove so you have to grind/break it off and do the steering arm thing if you need to get at it a different way.

Normally just spinning the throttle arm 180 makes the choke easier to get as it frees up access to the lever, so it can be left as is.

Cheers

Thanks DL Aust. Iremember turning one of the arms 180deg. , thought it was the choke, but I stand corrected and agree that reversing the throttle opens up extra space for the linkages.

Correct. Choke can't be reversed in a normal fashion, there also shouldn't be a need.

Has anyone broke this engine in using AMSoil Sabre? Since it is a "100-1" mix I was thinking of starting my mix at about 40-1 then working my way leaner...Any ideas?

I haven't broke in a DL on Amsoil,but have converted rather quickly.Have swapped after a gallon. I did start my new DA 100 out on Amsoil sabre with a 80 to 1 mix. kept good watch on the engine temp and cannister temp. broke it in in the air. I don't think it's necessary to take it down to 40-1. Talked with Amsoil engineer and he said a mix of 400-1 wouldnt cause damage to an engine. I wouldn't try this though.

I have a 75-1 mix right now I just wasnt sure if I needed to drop it more. I plan on doing the 2 hour break in thing on the ground because our weather is going to be crap for the next week or so but after that I am going to fly with out the cowl for a few flights just to keep good cooling. I have been running my XYZ 50 on the 75-1 and it seems to love it, noticed a 200rpm increase as soon as I changed it. I dont think I will ever make it to 100-1, just cuz I am skeptical...

Another question for anybody...Is there anywhere I can find a printable mounting template for the DL50?

I just did a search on DL-50 template in Yahoo and got a bunch of links. The one I used I believe was from DL of Australia. I'll be right back to post the link. As always, make sure you measure it to make sure it printed out to actual size and is accurate. I found that my actual engine stand off's were a mm less than the template showed. So I marked the holes .5 mm inward on the template and for the first time an engine template worked with no re-drilling and filing.

Ok that was easy, here it is:

http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE...lltemplate.pdf

Even though the template says 80mm wide, and actually measured exactly that....my stand off's measured only 79mm apart.