It is normal for an engine to drop a few rpms before it recovers if you cut the throttle. This is because the engine is hot after running full throttle and cooling down on idle. If it causes your engine to quit it might be running too hot because of an air circulation issue or too lean HS setting. There's no need to try different settings, simply (here we go again):

- run engine hot
- close LS 1/16 at a time until engine starts surging if you open the throttle, then open 1/8
- adjust HS for max rpm, open HS 1/16 or 200rpm drop

Repeat this procedure at least once. If you still have issues, check your air flow.

Hi,

Found this http://www.cyclonetoy.com/list_1.asp?id=1408
But the total weight is 420gr and I don't know either it's ok or not for my DL50 and Edge 85".

My plane don't have mounting for the canister at inside or like curve down the fuselage.. is it ok todo some modification inside of my plane for the canister? Any picture?

Original DL50 muffler are to lout and our neighbor don't like it.. and for performance wise is there any different?

thanks...

wow!!! it took like two hours to upload the video but here you go guys,i hope im doing this right,i used a small fan after shuting down the engine just to cool it down since it was too hot in the garage,i had to close the garage door because i didnt want unlookers around,i dont want that kind of atention here,anyway i did one full tank in like three hours at about ten to fiftin minute intervals,the contraption (chair and weights)worked just fine but i would advice to pay close attention as they might move,

in my case they remain very still,no problems at all,i used a total of four 10 pound weights for a total of 40 pounds and the engine pulls around 26 pounds according to the manufacturer's specs but like i said,i didnt go over quarter stick on the throttle,this engine runs great,as you can see in this video the engine seems like is missing but is probably due to the oil and mix ratio,

once i break it in and switch to amsoil this thing is gonna rock,i ended up with alot of tar ish looking stuff all over the floor and very little on the plane,cleans right up with some simple green,i'll do some more break in tomorrow before i maiden her,thanks to all for the great support and advice i should do two more tanks on the ground before i fly her,yes i am going to run the three gallons on petrolium based ashless oil before i switch to amsoil sabre

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCa20kW6Dy4

switch26,
I'm very safety conscious and wouldn't feel right if I didn't say something about the chair with weights on it. Even with the 40lbs of weight on the chair, the DL50 will probably still move it. It is just the friction between floor and the feet of the chair that is holding the plane back, not the total weight on the chair. Tie the plane to something heavy. Do yourself a favor and start listening to the people in this thread, otherwise you or someone else is going to get bit by the prop!!! Another thing, you say you never went over quarter throttle, the throttle curve on a gas engine is non-linear. When you are at a quarter of the stick movement, you probably are around half throttle on the carb which is probably 60-70 power.
Chuck

Maybe take a 2x4 and tie rope around it and anchor it to the garage wall spanning at least two studs in the wall if you need to run it in the garage.

no the engine does not go over half throttle on the carb,you guys didn't see my video did you?the weights don't even move and i already said i did a whole tank and the weights didn't even vibrate or move one bit,as i said i am right beside it watching the chair,this is probably safer than the test stand built out of pvc pipe and screws,i am very safety conscious too believe me the weights wont go anywhere and if they did,once again,...i am right there to hold them or stop the engine,you guys keep telling me to use a rope but i keep telling you guys the chair and weights works just fine for me,i'm not a child guys and no one is in the garage while im breaking in the motor,no pun intended here

Heres your sign!

LOL at least we haven't lost our sense of humour, thanks for the good advice guys i didnt mean to come so strong,everything is going just fine with the breakin on the engine,the chair and weights are still good,no movement,this thing should be ready to fly very,very soon,wooohooo!!!

Is anyone running a filter on the carb side? I have one in my fuel can, one on my fuel line in and on the carb side. I'm wondering if getting enough fuel to the carb with the dubro final filter?

I run one large filter to the carb. No issues whatsoever.

Whats the deal with your tank I have never seen a setup like that with a 3 line tank? You should not need a tee with a 3 line tank.

MStam....

That's a little confusing. Let me see if I got the photo right. Fuel in through large filter, out through Hanger 9 filter?

very neet set up MSTAM1971, gotta check back in the post to see what the Header tanks is for.
NEDYOB

To make it even more confusing: that little white thing is a valve

I got my gas tank from Jersey Modeler [link=http://www.jerseymodeler.com/id26.html]2.5RHP-R + TRAY Combo.![/link] which already has a filter.

First picture shows the carb vent, medium Tygon fuel line that goes to the little tank/film container. The film container's lit is glued with CA, hole a bit larger than the tubing.

Second picture has a better view on the fuel setup. I have one fuel line to fill/drain the tank and the other with the t-joint is the return overflow line and tank vent, the valve to keep fuel from getting to the engine box. This setup allows clean filling of the plane w/o spilling fuel, a fuel line outside the cowling etc.

Tank inner setup:
One line to the engine with clunk and a piece of brass tubing to keep the line from snapping forward.
Second line with a small piece of fuel line, rest brass tubing bent so it 'lies' on the bottom for fill/drain.
Third vent and overflow, little piece brass tubing bent to the top of the tank.

Use fuel barbs all around, CA and tie all connections in the tank, tie connections outside the tank only.

Hope this is clear [8D]

thit $^@(*$@ site sometimes doesn't allow uploading images.

http://tweakshop.net/DL50-install/11.jpg
http://tweakshop.net/DL50-install/9.jpg

it is still confusing to me,if it isnt too much to ask,could you post pictures of all the lines going to both the carb and tanks?thats if you dont mind doing it,you know what they say...a picture is worth a thousand words,by the way i also got my fuel can at Jersey modelers,they're the best ever and service is outstanding,love the fueling systems they have

Hello everyone,

My DL50, although it's burbling, is still performing beyond my expectations.

Here is my new video with the DL 50 and Pitts Special doing some knife edging, through the setting sun at Humber valley flying club.

There was not a cloud in the sky that evening, the spectacular red hue in the video is from the smog in Toronto.

I shot it in High Definition. You can watch it in High Quality by clicking on >> Watch in High Quality link just under the video window on the right hand side just below the volume button on the YouTube site.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Cb0ym4Hw9E

Geppino

Here is a photo to wet your appetite for the video.

Super nice job their Bound,

What is the weight of the pits, and the size prop that you are using on that 50,

hey Geppino
that looked nice i havent yet flown mine but i can tell is going to be a handfull on landing,seems you have to come in hot on landings,huh?

Have you run your plane with this setup?
I would be concerned with the check valve on my vent line, it could cause problems with the pump on the carb. Why not just run it to the outside? I know that you will spill a little fuel but you could watch the fuel line on the vent side and when it starts to get fuel to it stop.

the Jersey modelers fuel can comes with a overflow fuel return line so no mess and no spilling

Thanks Bosco2,

My plane is heavy, I mean really heavy, 20 lbs 3 oz wet >> all up weight.
It has 1600 sq inches of wing area, wing loading is 29 oz/sq ft

I run a 20 oz gas tank, 20 oz smoke oil tank. That video was made with no smoke oil in the tank. RC Guys.com said it should weigh 12 to 14 lbs, I'm assuming dry, mine came in really heavy at 17.5 lbs.

Now that the DL is well broken in I'm turning a 22x8 Xoar Sword at 7240 flight ready > measured just before taking off.
I have also used and like it better for my DL Pitts combo. 23x8 Xoar Sword at 6820 flight ready > measured just before taking off.

In both cases I use the standard muffler......... It's very loud and it would not pass in a noise-restricted field. I'm lucky, here in Canada, it has not been a problem.

Geppino

Thanks Switch26

Bi-Planes do not have a very good glide slope because of the drag, and this Pitts is a little worse than other Bi-Planes I have flown. If you do not land with power, it will drop out of the sky, before you can say "what the hell happened there....."

I use a very high rate on the elevator just for landing, and I deflect it fully to 30 degrees. I'm not sure about your Great Planes Pitts, but this one runs out of elevator on the factory recommended rate of 13 degrees really fast. And it's a bouncer; out of about 100 flights I have had with the Pitts. I only greased the landing 4 times. The rest I bounced, it's a real hand full to land.

Geppino

Like switch26 mentioned:
the Jersey modelers fuel can comes with a overflow fuel return line so no mess and no spilling

Yes I had about 20 flights on this bird now. I don't see a reason the valve could cause any issues unless you use it in the opposite way. The valve doesn't have any effect on the pump whatsoever. Air can still get in the tank, fuel can't get out during filling. Very clean and no line at the outside, just 2 standard fuel dots.

Round 4 hell,

I have the exact same bulbering problem like yours, no mater what I did, it won't go away and driving me knots. In your earlier post I thought you said you fixed the problem with adjusting the meter lever in carb, which I've been messing with without sucsess.

That is a fair question Shawn and I do not have a complete answer for you, other than the metering leaver seems to change with the different props I'm using.

When I first started the DL50 it was burbling a lot, and also had a lot of misfires, could not tune them out, so I did the adjustment of the metering leaver and got most of the burbling and misfires out. Depending on the weather it still burbled a little on some days. The metering adjustment was done with a 23x8 Xoar Sword and still in the break in phase.

A couple of weeks ago I had a bad landing I stalled it on approach and the Pitts fell out of the sky. I spread the gear on my Pitts and had a prop strike and cracked the Xoar 23x8 prop. So I reverted back to my break in prop a Xoar 22x8 Sword, to my surprise the engine is burbling again in the mid range, although not as bad as it stared out, believe it or not it was worse at the beginning. I have not yet friged again with the metering leaver, it was a pain in the butt the first time.

I have attempted to tune the needles on several occasions, but cannot get the burbling out with the 22x8, you can hear it burbling, gurgling and farting in this short clip of my Pitts in knife-edge at a 1/4 to 1/3 throttle with the 22x8 Xoar. Also in the video my exhaust pipe had fallen off the muffler, so it may also have something to do with all the burbling.

The power is great and it has never flamed out, but like you, I think it would be nice to have our cake and eat too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLWrG0ZPCjo

Geppino