This stuff right? http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE_INFO/oil_page.htm And can someone tell me what these are? the carb? Well it won't let me post any photos for some reason. One is a plastick almost looks like a servo horn and the other is just a spring any thoughts please?

My stock plug has been through nearly 10gal now and shows no sign of giving up.

Yellow coloured arm is for bolting to small stock throttle arm on carby to make it a useable length, spring is a spare spark plug cap spring, in case you lose the one thats already inside the spark plug cap.

Cheers!

Scott
DL Engines AU

Does it say DL-50 on it? Mine which I gt last week is marked DL-50 on the crankcase on one side and also on the cylinder on the other side. It also has a serial number marked on both the CC and cyl.

I picked up a real NGK plug at NAPA, cost me like $8.00 but they had it in stock. I also picked up some LB ashless and some Pennzoil Air Cooled. Will the Pennzoil work as well for break-in as the LB. I've heard that the LB leaves a lot of gunk behind but is it a good idea to use the Penn right from the start?



Mike

Run lawn boy or Pennzoil. They are both good oils. There will always be someone that tells you to run one or the other. One is better than the other. The fact of the matter is mix one of them at 32 to 1 and go fly it with a 22X8 prop and enjoy. All this talk of heat cycling and special break in procedures is a bunch of over paranoid bull crap. Do your normal flights and then, let it sit for a minute. don't thrash on the motor until you get a few gallons threw it. I didn't do anything fancy when I broke in my motor, and when I started I was getting 6850rpms on a 22X8
Zoar. After about 4 gallons it was like a flip of a switch. It went from what I thought was running normal to ripping the prop. I landed to check what the heck changed. I check the needles. I then checked the RPM's, 7650RPM's. I was shocked!! I had to check it agian just to be sure. It was correct, 7650. This motor runs perfect and starts very easy. You guys will love it.

Also the guys are right. Throw that stock plug in the trash. For one thing it fits loosely in the head for another it doesn't last. I switch to the NGK-CM6. Trust me it makes a difference.

I think I'm going to forego the Lawn Boy and just use the Pennzoil. I was going to use the original plug during breakin but maybe I'll just install the NGK right away. I've mounted the engine to a test stand and I'm hoping to get it going soon but the weather is not great right now.

I'll probably run it @ 32:1 simply because I also have an ATV that will be using pre-mix. I'm removing the Autolube system which mixed oil at 32:1, I don't really feel like rejetting it. This way I'll have the same mix for both.



Mike

Yes it has the same markings. You know I have a friend who only runs DA and he is the one who I learned how to fly from. Now he does what you are say and just runs them but very easy for the first three gals. And does do the diffrent oils the no syn for break in and syn there after. You I i was in to racing off road nitro buggies hard core and we would take a OS VZB21 and just run it easy then let it rest for ten min or so and do that foe about three tanks. And then lean her out and start ripping up the track and may I say these are 400 dollar motor and we did it in the summer here in calif 110 weather.

I am sorry to ask some may things. Yes it is the DL and not the DLE. Can you run a 6 volt battery with the Ignition or should it be only 4.8???

According to their website it must not be any higher than 6V or damage to the ignition may occur. A fully charged 5 cell battery will be over that. So you would need to use a regulator if using a battery that can be over 6V, i.e. a 5 cell NiCad or NiMH or 2 cell or more LiPo or LiIon. I'm planning on just using a 4 cell of sufficient capacity.




Mike

If using a 5-cell battery, simply put a 1N5001 series diode in series with the positive wire for a .7 volts voltage drop.
I always use 2 1N5001's in series on a 1100mah A123 2S1P pack. And 2 1N4001's on a 3S1P 2500mah transmitter pack good for 14-1/2 hrs on my JR 9303 2.4. Low battery alarm sounds 20 mins before the battery switches itself off at 9.6 volts.

Guys I have a 6volt battery on my DL50 with no reg. or diod no concerns. I read where you could not use over 6volts but call DLUSA and asked they said it would not hurt a thing been running for 1.5 years 50 flights. Thanks The Road Runner

giddyuperic

I sent you a PM today in response to your question.

Chuck

I found at Hobby people a 4.8 2200mAh battery for 13 bucks that should last all day in the ignition. Most 6volt batterys are over that so I just don't want to take a chance of letting the smoke out of the box. But I am going to run two 6 volt batterys for the sevos for sure. One reg and one for back up. What do you guys think of this for a 50cc plane? http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8355

For up to 33% you don't need regulators unless you wanna use LiPo's which I don't recommend. If you have a JR receiver and Hitec servos you can use A123 batteries w/o a regulator going straight into the receiver. A 2300mah 2S1P w/ my setup is good for 5.9 14-minute flights. If you don't mind the extra weight you could use a 2S2P good for 11 flights or use a field charger.
http://electrodynam.com/store/EDN.html
You can balance charge through the switch and the switch has 2 power leads going to the receiver good enough for 8 Amps continuously.

I just want to run NI-MH packs and I run spektrum, so I think I can run that set up just fine. I just want to be sure and not loose any thing. Do you guys just run two batterys one for the motor and one for the servo's?

Ok I just fitted up my first dl 50.... looking forward to fliping the prop but here is the thing. There is a spring supplied with the plug and one in the end of the lead. When I push the lead on the plug it doesn,'t stay on very well. What am I doing wrong?

Hi

You need to push the cap on harder, takes a good shove/wiggle. The base of the cap should cover the hex part of the sparkplug, almost down to the head.

You will feel a definate release as it pops on. Does take a bit of force.

DL supply an extra cap spring as a spare, in case you lose the one in the cap (easy to do if you ever pull the plug cap off with your plane parked in the grass!)

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines AU

cheers for that

Just picked up a couple of CM6 plugs from Advance Auto. I wanted to check the gap to make sure they were set .018-.020 but couldn't find my feeler gages. What to do. Discovered that a #11 hobby knife blade (from Tower) measures .021. Close enough for a quick check in the field. Finally found my gages. They were set perfectly.

Rcflyr

hey guys, just dropping in on the post here. Man I ran my new dl-50 on my extra 260 and it is a beast! Im definately satisfied with this motor. Im running the penzoil at 32:1 with a ngk plug, she fires rite up! doesnt take much flipping to get it running. the plug boot is definately hard to get off, but in a way thats a good thing, you dont have to worry about it coming off in the air, lol. Im useing a pro zinger 22-8, I think im going to try one of those xoar props, I dont think the pro zinger is gonna cut it. Love my engine, best of luck to you guys...

R. Normand

Moki you will love the Xoar. Just get the beach wood don't buy a laminated prop. If you have a prop strike you want the prop to fail not the motor box. And that prop pulls hard. you will notice a difference.

I can't wait to run mine it is almost ready to go on the Giles 202. But the money treee dried up tell next month Still need a prop and a couple more servos. Oh well it gives me more time to fly my other planes. This is the one that I am having fun with now

My money tree just died also. Must be the great economy! LOL!

do you have to use a spark plug with a resister eg plug that end with a R, to avoid interferance with the radio gear ? I noticed some said that a NGK CM 6 was the go but I do not know if this is a resister or not.

NGK-CM6. Just buy that plug and everything will be happy.