"Guys I know this is way off subject, but what are yall useing for a throttle arm? I have a DL-50 that I just bought, that lil throttle arm is just way to short, I need a longer one so I can set up my throttle linkage. Thanks."

I am using a small blue 1" aluminum servo arm from a Hitec servo. I saw the idea here somewhere. Probably way earlier in this same thread. Works well.

I just bought a DL50 and they included a throttle arm extension that screws on over the metal arm on the engine. Works fine.

PLAYNTRAFIC, WHAT YOU CAN DO IS SET UP A BALL SOCKET ON THE THROTTLE ARM ON THE CARB THEN DESIGN A CABLE THAT WILL GO FROM THE SERVO TO THE CARB AND ANCOR THE CABLE SLEEVE TO SMALL PIECE OF PLYWOOD
TO HOLD THE CABLE OUT OF THE WAY GIVE THAT A TRY



JIM

PLAYNTRAFIC, CHECK OUT PAGE (150)

Hey guys I think this has been asked but Iam looking at a carbon fiber prop out of the two what is better the PT or Mejzlik.Thanks RoadRunner

Guys. I am all set on the throttle. Moki was looking.

Thanks for the link back to post 150 though. That gets me the info I was looking for on the atmospheric vent tube. There is a lot of good info on this thread.

I started my DL50 for the first time yesterday. First gasser and was a little intimidated. It started right up. No problems at all. Break-in procedure seems intensive. I am on the fourth ten minute run at 2500rpm. The airframe shakes pretty good, I hope that smooths out in another gallon after I adjust the needles.

do you have the wings on?

Yes the wings are on. The needles are at the factory setting and the low end seems pretty rich. There is some smoke at the 2500rpm. I am going to try and set the low end for a good transition and see if that helps. I have not opened it up to WOT to set the high speed needle, it is still at the factory recommended setting. I am also still using the cheapo stock plug. Figure I will put the CM-6 on it after the break-in.

I am doing the break-in according to the manual. Probably being too conservative.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbc-MlekL-k

Poorly tuned rich, it will not likely warm up enough to heat cycle and break in as intended....you are likely prolonging the process. Tune that engine, heat cycle it, with say 10 min flights and full cool downs between them, and avoid constant full throttle and/or hovering for bit.

Hello guys and maybe gals. I getting my first gasser here in week or so. I fly a showtime 90 with a saito 125 right now and I just love it. The DL-50 is going in a Giles 202 I got for a very good price. So you guy heat cycle them for break in right? I did that with my rcae motors for off road buggies ten min don't keep the throttle in one place to long and let her cool down before you take her up again. Do you run it at all on the ground? Sorry if these have already been asked. I have a head injury so if you could tell me where in the thread to go that would be great. I got a lot of crap when the guys with the aerowerks and the DA's heard I bought one of these, But hey I am a disabled vet and I only make so much per month and this is it. I have heard only good things about this motor anyway. Thanks Eric

giddyuperic, ERIC,
dont let those guys give you any guff the smart buy is what works for you that engine will last you a long time
you take care of it and it will take care of you there is a u-tube on one of these last pages about breaking in the DL-50
you will enjoy it



JIM

Eric, I did two hours of ground running to get the needles fine tuned and ran it at about 2500 RPM's. Then I mounted it on my plane. Flew it normally for the first 2 gallons or so and after that I ran it like I stole it. 7650RPM on a 22x8 JXF. If you can tune a car engine you can tune a DL-50. You will get spoiled on this motor and not want to fly messy old finicky glow any more. That's what happened to me. Good Luck. And Welcome to the family!!

Thanks and I can't wait to get it and put it in and run her up and here that sound. And I saw the video about the break in great thread.

You will love the DL and so will the guys when they find out how good the engine performs . Better than most out there and /or as good.

One thing - when you do get it and start breaking it in on the ground, mount it on a dedicated test stand. Not your model. And then make sure that your test stand is at least three feet above the ground. You can seriously shorten the engine's usable lifespan if you let it suck grit and dust into itself via the propeller and through the carburetor.

Our old saying while watching folks break-in their engines on their models on the ground was - "Break it in -break it out". They would look at us curiously while trying to figure out what we were telling them. Later, I began writing the club newsletter and I mentioned it there. Then they understood.


Ed Cregger

I understand from the DL Australia site that the DL55 is replacing the DL50. Has anyone heard when this engine will be available?

The first shipments are on there way.

All going well we will have some mid to late next week.

DL55 is replacing the 50 and the DL111 is replacing the 100

We have sold out of the 50's now, but have a few of the DL100's left for anyone chasing a bargain

Cheers

Scott.
DL Engines AU

Can I get a DL50 at a reduced price, like close out price here state side. Or should I wait for a DLE55??
NEDYOB

Nothing wrong with the 50 , contact some of your local sellers...someone might be able to do you a deal if they still have stock.......cant hurt to ask!

I just got mine yesterday and I would really like to do the ground running before I'm able to mount it on the airplane which will be awhile. I'd really like to fire it up before I can mount it just in case there are any issues, which I don't anticipate. Plus I really want to hear it run!

I know that DL says not to use a test stand but I have to believe that unless you mount your engine up to a big ol' block of steel it should be able to move around enough to not break the mounts off. I've seen plenty of videos of this being done. If run on test stand, what's the best way to do it?



Mike

Just make a long engine box out of some ply you have laying around. That's what I did. Leave the top open and the bottom extend far back to clamp it or wood screw it to a table at the field. I could take some pic's but really it's pretty simple. IT has had several gas engines on it now. A friend used it too. I even have a throttle mount, reciever and battery with switch. Being able to control the engine from a distance is way cool.

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking. If you make a test stand that's similar in design to your fuse it should be OK. I'll do that this weekend. I can't wait to hear it run!

One other question. I need to drill my prop (I bought the drill jig from DLUSA) but I'm not sure how to orient it so the prop is in the proper position for starting. I've seen pictures that show 2 of the holes in line with the length of the prop with the other 2 across the hub. Hard to tell though if it was at an angle. I know it's important to get it right, both for ease of starting and also so your hand goes clear the prop.


Mike

Here is my stand.

It can be much more simple, just a piece of plywood screwed securely to a 4x4 post.

Prop bolt hole orientation is a personal preference. All of mine are drilled with two holes lined up on the two propeller blades though many prefer to have two holes about 45 degrees from there so the engine is coming up on compresion with the propeller blades at about the 1:30 and 7:30 clock positions.