No but you could tweak your carb. See images. I used medium Tygon tubing. Engine runs superb. Not a single miss, no burble nothing.
Tuning after at least one tank of fuel:

1. Run engine hot;
2. Turn LS needle in 1/16 at a time until throttle response hesitates because of mixture being too lean. Turn needle out 1/8;
3. Adjust HS needle for max rpm, turn needle out about 1/16 or 200rpm drop;
4. Both LS and HS adjustments affect each other, so repeat step 2 and 3 at least twice;

Don't run your engine rich breaking it in. The extra oil will do the job.

Nice stand offs ho sale's them?

http://www.swbmfg.com/motorstandoff.html

2"
I used 8-32 socket head screws that are holding well.
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...&cm=25&cd=1219
Lowes and probably also Home Depot carry nylon spacers 1/4" to fill the gap so the screws are nicely centered.

mstam1971
is that a header tank you are using beside the main tank?sorry i just dont have as much experience with this type of engines and or aircraft,i do run a header tank on all my helis,looks great by the way,i really like your setup on the tanks and a nice clean wire routing,

by the way heres the pictures of my finished GP pitts special with the DL 50 and a Xoar 22x8,i have not yet started the engine,need to program the radio and break in the motor,but im happy it is almost ready for its maiden flight
wish me luck guys

Beautiful plane switch (why am I complimenting someone on an ARF?).

Show us some engine install pics.

The Pitts is my favorite airplane of all time. I wish GP would have not discontinued that one. Sad. Take good care of her. [sm=regular_smile.gif]

thanks for the compliment Tim,i agree with you,Great planes should of never stop production on this beauty of a plane,well hey i already posted the engine install pictures but ill doit again soon,just give me a chance to take the cowl apart,i made my own spark plug wire clip to hold it from swinging around,i could of went with something very simple from the hardware store but im way too picky and didnt like what they had,the outo parts store have the spark plug wire looms but still not good enough for the price,

anyway i had to drill a 1" inch hole on the firewall for the proper air flow for the carb,i wound a couple turns of fuel tubbing to hold enough fuel in the line in case i deside to go on a vertical downline so the engine doesnt quit,the GP pitts has a very different way of mounting the fuel tank and the firewall has very limited space for anything,i hope the next giant scale plane i get is not as complicated as this one to convert to gas,

this plane was design with the nitro engine in mind and the manual doesnt include instructions for the gas engine,i also had to relocate the throtle servo and re-enforce the engine box to accomodate the DL 50,well anyway the build went well and i should maden thins beauty soon,ill try to get some footage if i can and will post here for every one to see,dont expect much though im not very experience with planes but will try to keep it safe and fun as posible

Would anyone happen to know what the degrees are for the throttle arm fromt fully open to fully closed?? I have a hitec digital that I would like to program on a servo programer. I will then fine tune the throttle servo with my TX.
NEDYOB

NEDYOB,

Come down to the field on Sunday, noonish...and i can officially meet you. Bring your project with you and/or something to fly

Chad

Actually,we were using a towing rope temporarily attached to the fuselage of the Extra, hooked around the landing gear.My Flying buddy"s already made a tow release mechanism for the Extra so we gonna use it in the near future.Towing a huge glider with a potent pattern plane is a big fun guys,believe me.After the glider released from the rope,I would fly a light freestyle having a lot of time until the glider stop to chase the thermals.And we start the towing again.Thats what I call fun in airplanemodelling.

Georgee

If anyone is looking for a NIB GP Pitts Special I saw one at The Realm of Hobbies hobby shop in Moore, Oklahoma last time I was down there which was abot two weeks ago. They have lots of arfs on the floor down there. I wound up buying an e-flite Extra 260 electric there. Give Jim a call at 405-794-8081. I saw the new Carden Yak arf there too. It was priced at $650.00. It was all I could do to keep from carrying it out of there. The great thing is that I was able to look through the box and check out the ARF to see how well built and covered it was and if it had any shipping damage.
Kent

Sorry Aerbatx this weekend I have to work, but when we plan to go to Iowa City I will let you known for sure. Any way my DL 50 is in a Dietrich Performance Extra 260 with Hitec 5945 & 5955 servos, Futaba 2.4G setup in a 9C or 10C. Havent decided what radio I want to set it up on. Right now Im just getting all the innerd to get it all set up.
NEDYOB

Hi Switch.

Hey, don't go taking the cowl off just take more pics! If you want to post pics, just post the ones you already have again (you saved them in your computer, right?).

I think most of our recent stuff is easier to setup for gas as we are getting into that more and more.

A few years ago I had to do some vibration testing on an engine. We mounted a prop with one of the tips cut short onto a Pitts we had leftover from development or something. Anyway, I had to go out and fly the Pitts all day long and it was surprisingly easy to land - let alone fly and takeoff. When I was asigned the Christen Eagle project (which is the same basic airframe as the Pitts) we found that the C.G. could be moved farther aft. What I'm saying is when you balance your Pitts at the recommended C.G. this will be a good thing because she will be plenty stable for your first flights.

Let us know how it goes!

Tim

It's not a header tank. It's the enclosure that comes with the 'old fashioned' films. I use it to keep the pressure to the carb vent stable.

Mustman,

Do you have a hole in the film container, other than the hole for the tube? If so, how big?
I guess I still don't get the pill bottle/film container thing. If the film container isn't vented out, you could just put a plate without a hole in it, over the carburetor, and it would accomplish the same thing.

Greg

Just one hole for the fuel line a fraction larger in diameter so the container is vented out. You don't need much ventilation though. The lit is glued with a few drops of medium CA. The farther the vent is located from the carburetor, the stabler the air pressure and the smoother your engine's transition will be.

1st flight results...

On the ground the engine was swooth with no excessive richness.. In the air still strong but did show signs of richness down low and a midrange burrble when upright.. The burble went away when inverted so I'm going to reset the pump lever before the next flight... Overall very nice power with the 22-8 Xoar but I think the 23-8 is really going to be needed... (Time will tell.) Oh and I'm using the stock muffler with a little trimmed off the down pipe..

Oh and this was in my new DawghouseRC Yak55sp.... Even rich it yanked all 17lbs straight up with no trouble....

More soon,

So, want to know how to pick a quick 1,000rpm on your DL 50? Um, yea. Just tighten the spark plug! (Assuming your spark plug was loose in the first place).

So I got my new Extra built this week (to replace the one I crashed last week that was using a DL 50 that was running perfectly) and went out to the field first thing this morning. Did the radio check. Battery check, started it up and all seemed fine. Was a little worried that I could have bent the crankshaft from the crash (destroyed the Mejzlik prop a buddy loaned me!), but was pretty sure it was okay. So in the air all was fine, but seemed a little down on power. Brought in and started chasing the needles. After in the air and back on the ground a few times I just started taching it. Best I could get was around 6100rpm. Kept fiddling then realized something just must be wrong - either I have the needles so far out I'm not even close, or the piston/cylinder are scuffed.

Back at home, pull the cowl expecting to tear down the engine. But right away I see black gook on the outside of the muffler, on the plug cap and on the cowl. Duh! I knew right away what it was.

Cleaned it up, tightened the plug, put both needles 1-1/2 turns out and headed right back out to the field. Tached out at 7,100. Okay, NOW we're talkin.

That engine runs so sweat. KE circles (that's the big maneuver I do) at half-throttle and the engine is just humming nice and quietly.


Okay, back to the Edge!

I am having trouble with my DL in a 30% SD Yak. I get it tuned to what seems good on the ground and took her up in the air for her maiden. I had major burbling where it would stutter trying to speed up but once it got onto the hs needle it yanked it. Got it trimmed out and did like two trips around the field, nothing crazy and decided to try to land. Landed fairly well. Let her cool down then later on took her back up again. I leaned the low end about an 1/8 turn and still had major burbling but the top end still pulled came around on my second circuit at the far end of the field and she shut off and I had my first ever dead stick landing and she came in nice and easy although a little fast LOL. Only damage was I cracked the one wheel pant. Am I possibly confusing the burbling with maybe being too lean on the low end? Once we had it back on the ground I was getting ready to try it again and I fired it up and figured I would try tuning it some more. Tached the top end managed 6810 on the 22x8 tbm prop but then I was getting the half throttle stumble that I had before when the carb screen was clogged. The she stalled at idle and couldn't get her to fire up again. Pulled the spark plug and she was definately flooded. Checked for spark and couldn't get any. So I packed it up and came home. I hooked the charger up and the batt is showing it was 90% charged so I dunno. Charged the batt and I have spark now. I am going to check for a bad wire or connection with the batt.

Is everyone else fairly close to the stock needle settings once they are tuned? I forgot to mention I have a tbm carb plate instead of the pill bottle so that shouldn't be the problem.

If it is stumbling, sounding like it isn't getting fuel when you advance the throttle rapidly, it is too lean on the low end. In air-burbling, particularly if attitude-related is more than likely differential pressure being sensed at that static port. My own experience is that the carb plate and remote-ing the port line itself yields different results. Yak cowls are notorious for weird pressure buildup where you wouldn't expect it.

I think most would say the needles end up "close", although all of mine have always been leaner than stock.

It makes sense Bob, I think I will just run the pill bottle and be done with it.

It does the stumbling thing like the filter is clogged whether I advance the throttle slow or fast.

What is the setting of the low needle?

The high end was about an 1/8 turn lean from factory and the low needle was a hair over 1/4 turn lean from factory

THose sound about where mine are at, not that that means anything.... a lot of variables play into it. But after hearing where your needle is at, I'd sure be looking at the static port issue. Can't remember, do you have a flat firewall behind the carb, or is it cut open to let things breathe?