On my 50s I run two nimh 2000mah and a 2000mah on the ignition. But I'm now just getting into the A123s.

You guys want A123s Get them from booma-rc. his service is unbelievable. Here is a link.

http://www.booma-rc.com/default.aspx...Code=BRC-38207

I'm now building an Aeroworks 100cc extra 300. I'll be running two 2700 A123s into a power safe JR r922 power buss receiver. And a 2000mah Nimh on the ignition.

I don't like lipos in my nitro's or well this is my first gasser so. And you have to run a volt reg with the 123 batterys? I don't relly know what I am going to do. I know for sure I will have the 6 volt 2200mAh for the servos and the 4.8 2200 mAh for the CDI. I keep going back and forth on the battery share thing[sm=confused.gif] I could run it both ways and it would be fine I am sure of that. But I have seen so many planes go down just because of the battery and I have so much money in this plane. I am going with Hitech all the way aroung 645 on the rudder and some 625s and 475s and one 82mg for the throttle. I have been going back and forth on those too[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] there is so many diffrent kinds and MONEY that is the big thing too.

thanks frieshow

Eric,

If you are going to use dual batteries you should use a battery share device. It keeps the batteries isolated from each other so if one battery goes bad it won't drain the other battery down with it. If you just plug both batteries into the reciever and one battery goes dead both batteries will equalize throgh the reciever and both will be dead, your plane will soon follow.

Hello Jody,
I got my DL 50 V2 today and I noticed a spring on the oposit side of the throttle arm. Do I have to unhook the spring, or just remove it all together if possible?
NEDYOB

You don't have to run regulators with the A123s. They run a constant 6.6 volts without a drop off, but when they do drop off, it's sudden. The thing I like about the A123s is they put out over 30 amps, which means when you do a hard snap, or a really violent menuver you don't have to worry about your voltage or amperage dropping. They also recharge in about 15 minutes. In my 35%er I can get in 6 ten minute flights before I think about recharging

Just unhook the end that pulls the throttle shaft back closed. Some like to leave the spring connected to act as a pseudo fail safe incase the throttle linkage becomes disconnected. Just don't remove the spring altogether, it also serves as a spacer to keep the thottle valve from wearing grooves in the carburetor body from engine vibration.

Back to an oil question . This is my first gas. Dl-50. It is used , and has about 30 flights. The guy i bought it from says that after break`in he has been using Amsoil syn at 100:1 ratio. I want to run a good syn. oil but that seems kind of lean. He said he has it setup to run rich. what does he mean. If you are running with that little oil would running the motor rich make up for the lack of oil in the mixture. Could you guys name some good syn. oils with low carbon build up on top of the piston and what ratio syn. volume per gallon should be run at. thanks

"He said he has it setup to run rich. what does he mean."

He means that he has the mixture needles set richer than peak RPM, how rich I don't know, I would not trust his adjustments. It is not good practice to run gas engines richer than about 100 RPM from peak. All it does is waste gas, foul plugs, and carbon up the combustion chamber and nuffler.

I won't say Amsoil is good or bad, I will say that I won't use it. I will also never run less oil than a 50:1 mixture. There are many oils out there that will give satifactory protection and lubrication, some are better than others. A few oils that I have used with good to excellent results are Penzoil for air cooled engines (not multi purpose), Stihl, Echo, Bel-Ray, and Redline.

If your using a full synthetic oil just mix it at 50:1, warm it up, adjust the carb and go fly.

If you go with a mineral based oil, mix it at 32-40:1, steps 2, 3, and 4 are the same.

having trouble getting rid of the low to mid range burble in both my dl 50's at full throttle its not there but between low to midrange there is a distinct burble that comes from the muffler..any ideas?

10-14kg-cm torque digital servos (such as Hitec 5645MG, 7985MG..) wont draw more than 2 Amps Peak.. If they are locked, they draw about 1.8-2 amps maximum. So even if you were to lock 5 servos at once in a 30% aircraft (which would never happen if you chose proper servos for the aircraft) they would draw total of 10 amps peak, momentarily.

The 22 awg "HD" servo cables are able to carry 3-3.5 amps continuous, and able to carry 5 Amps for a short period of time (measured in seconds) before getting warm and increase internal resistance.

Current LiPo cells are able to pump out 20-25 even 30C, that is in general 30-45 amps continuous draw for a 2000mah pack. A123 cell's only advantage is they can be used without a regulator and can be charged faster than LiPos. LiPos are cheap, lightweight and keep their balance well nowadays even if charged without balancer and dont lose their capacity in a short period. BTW some people are using LiPos directly without regs, without any problems and now some of the newer servos are directly compatible with 7.4V input voltage.

Back on the engine subject, I think running a walbro carbed gasser rich on top end is useless, and harmful in the long run, as it promotes carbon build-up, lower performance and plug fouling. One should run them as intended by the engine and oil manufacturer - 32:1 with mineral and 50:1 with synthetic with adequate cooling.

lean your low end needle slowly, cheking every time on the stick where the burble starts. eventually you will drop down to 20-25% stick and there will be no burble. Under 15-20% throttle there is always a characteristic rat-tat-tat sound of 2 stroke engine.

read here for full tune-up: [link=http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm]http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm[/link]

Valve floater;
What Jody from Valley View told you is absolutely correct. If you want to use a really great synt. oil use BelRay. Either the MC-1 or the HR-1. Both are pretty much the same in quality. The HR-1 can be mixed at 80:1, the MC-1 at 50:1. This oil will keep your motor shiny on the inside. No deposits, whatsoever.

Get rid of as much burble as possible but make sure it still snaps up to full throttle quickly. You don't want that to suffer and getting rid of too much burble could do just that. Also make sure to test peak RPM again if you lean the low needle a bunch....or you could burn up the engine.

Thanks I am going to read up on the 123 battery's. I really did not know that much about them. Thank you for all of the info I will do some home work and think about it. I am stuck at home all day and it no wind and 80 deg here in so cal. But I am not have good day so far heath wise. But thanks for the info and I still say this is the best thread.

Not sure if I have read anything in this thread about my current problem or not but, ... My front bearing was spun so I took the engine apart and replaced both bearings. Now that I have it back together it is leaking fuel from the crankcase seam on the bottom of the case when over about 1/2 throttle. I had put some of the bearing compound on the mating surfaces to act as a gasket but looks like that didn't work. I think I saw something about Hondabond or Yamabond back in the pages. Is this what I should use?? Not having a motorcycle, I am not aware of what this stuff is.

Much less expensive and easier to get, Permatex Motoseal, at your neighborhood auto parts store.

JEDIJODY, WHAT IS MOTOSEAL (SILICONE) NEVER HERD OF IT

The DL is purring like a kitten. This is my first gasser and I'm already not wanting to go back to glow. It started on about its sixth or seventh flip. Just about to finish up the first tank. Thought I'd show you my graphics by Bad Brad Graphics too. Haven't applied the wing ones yet. Plane is the Aeroworks 260.

After first tank have zero leakage from muffler. Used Permatex High Temp Red RTV Silicone gasket maker.

Sealer designed to seal metal to metal, gasketless case halves together.

IN ALL THE YEARS OF TURNEN WRENCHES THAT IS THE FIRST TIME I'VE SEEN MOTOSEAL IS THAT STUFF LIKE FORM
A GASKET OR ANAROBIK SEALER ?????????????????????????

Niether, it's more like a contact adhesive with unique properties for it's intended application.

WELL THATS KINDA COOL I'M GOING TO HAVE TO LOOK FOR SOME ITS ABOUT TIME I FIND SOME NEW STUFF FOR SEALERS

Jody,
Thanks for the info. on the spring. Also maybe you can give me a sugjestion here or clear something up. At least to me anyway. The previous owner of my DL50 used Amsoil ant 50:1, I would like to run synth. oil because I have had fairly good luck running synthetics with my glow engines (Iknow I shouldn't even be compareing glow to gas engines)
Anyway in my area Amsoil I can get (because Im in the snow mobile state) but have to go to the Amsoil Dealer at a Snowmobole Dealership to buy it abou 50 miles away.
In all honesty I would just like to go to my local "small town True Value store" and get what oil I need without buying a case at a time and just buy it as I need it. Could you post a photo of the it (what Penoil bottle to buy)
My secound qustion is what type mesuring devise can a use to measure out my oil mixture to my tank of gas. I have hea there are mixture cups that have the ratio mixture on the side and alls you do is fill it to the line and pour it in you gas and give it a shack and off you go flying.
Ive asked at the store and they look at me like Im crazy, and say I've never seen a oil to gas ratio mixture devise.
Thanks for the help.
NEDYOB

Local motorcycle shop would not look at you that way, It may be at your snowmobile shop as well,